品種介紹
在五月初五端(duan)(duan)午(wu)節(jie)當日(ri),海(hai)南(nan)人(ren)有“洗龍(long)水(shui)(shui)”、泡藥水(shui)(shui)澡來(lai)凈身(shen)后祭祖的(de)習俗,炎(yan)熱的(de)海(hai)島夏日(ri),用(yong)艾草(cao)、薄荷等(deng)藥草(cao)泡個熱水(shui)(shui)澡后祭拜祖先(xian),隨后一(yi)家人(ren)團聚(ju)剝粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子、吃(chi)團圓飯的(de)場景可謂海(hai)南(nan)島的(de)夏日(ri)風情,而因(yin)“洗龍(long)水(shui)(shui)”而人(ren)頭(tou)攢(zan)動的(de)海(hai)灘(tan)更是(shi)演繹出了內地夏日(ri)沒有的(de)一(yi)道風景線。海(hai)南(nan)端(duan)(duan)午(wu)節(jie)的(de)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子也(ye)與大(da)陸的(de)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子不太相同,它由(you)柊(zhong)(zhong)葉包(bao)成方(fang)錐形,重(zhong)約半(ban)公斤(jin)左右,糯米中有咸蛋黃、叉燒肉(rou)、豬(zhu)肉(rou)、豬(zhu)蹄、咸魚(yu)等(deng)等(deng),熱粽(zong)(zong)(zong)剝開,先(xian)有柊(zhong)(zhong)葉和糯米的(de)清(qing)香,后有肉(rou)、蛋的(de)濃(nong)香。海(hai)南(nan)雖也(ye)有堿水(shui)(shui)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)、白糖豆(dou)沙粽(zong)(zong)(zong)等(deng)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子,但海(hai)南(nan)人(ren)最(zui)喜歡(huan)的(de)、最(zui)推崇(chong)的(de),或(huo)說(shuo),海(hai)南(nan)人(ren)對(dui)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子的(de)印象是(shi)還(huan)是(shi)用(yong)海(hai)南(nan)島產的(de)海(hai)南(nan)柊(zhong)(zhong)葉(民間一(yi)般俗稱茄柊(zhong)(zhong)葉、冬葉或(huo)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)葉)包(bao)裹(guo)的(de)蛋黃豬(zhu)肉(rou)餡料的(de)咸粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子。對(dui)海(hai)南(nan)人(ren)來(lai)說(shuo),端(duan)(duan)午(wu)節(jie)沒吃(chi)到柊(zhong)(zhong)葉包(bao)裹(guo)的(de)咸蛋黃豬(zhu)肉(rou)餡的(de)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子就好比北方(fang)人(ren)春節(jie)沒吃(chi)餃子一(yi)樣。海(hai)南(nan)島各(ge)地端(duan)(duan)午(wu)節(jie)都會包(bao)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子,而尤其以三(san)大(da)名粽(zong)(zong)(zong),即定(ding)安粽(zong)(zong)(zong)、洛基粽(zong)(zong)(zong)、瑞溪(xi)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)最(zui)為聞名。
定安粽
定(ding)安(an)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)形成于明(ming)代,是海(hai)南三大(da)名粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)之一,定(ding)安(an)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)分為(wei)兩(liang)種,用(yong)(yong)糯(nuo)(nuo)米(mi)制作(zuo)的(de)是糯(nuo)(nuo)米(mi)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong),用(yong)(yong)秈米(mi)制作(zuo)的(de)是秈米(mi)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)。制作(zuo)原料是海(hai)南柊葉(xie)(即茄柊葉(xie),柊葉(xie)屬(shu)竹(zhu)芋科姜(jiang)目),將采集的(de)柊葉(xie)煮透晾干制作(zuo)成粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)葉(xie),再浸泡(pao)精(jing)白純正的(de)糯(nuo)(nuo)米(mi)至(zhi)柔(rou)軟,淘在簸(bo)筐里濾(lv)干水糯(nuo)(nuo)米(mi)和豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou),豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou)一般用(yong)(yong)七分瘦肉(rou)三分肥肉(rou),并(bing)用(yong)(yong)鹽,香料等調料調制好(hao)稻(dao)米(mi)。將事(shi)先洗干凈的(de)柊葉(xie)鋪好(hao),在鋪上一層豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou),咸鴨蛋,大(da)米(mi),然后仔(zi)細(xi)包裹好(hao),放在鍋中蒸(zheng)煮十個小(xiao)時(shi)左(zuo)右方(fang)出爐(lu)完(wan)成,制作(zuo)的(de)過程十分講究。定(ding)安(an)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)品種繁多,具有(you)代表性的(de)有(you)四家老字號(hao):定(ding)安(an)東(dong)方(fang)酒店(dian)黑(hei)(hei)豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)、新(xin)泰(tai)來黑(hei)(hei)豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、文宗粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、和潮黑(hei)(hei)豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong),還(huan)有(you)新(xin)竹(zhu)四季鵝飯店(dian)黑(hei)(hei)豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、興順(shun)黑(hei)(hei)豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)等。
洛基粽那大粽
【長坡米爛洛(luo)基(ji)(ji)粽(zong)(zong)(zong),王五狗肉香(xiang)透胸(xiong)。馬井紅魚(yu)香(xiang)破(po)釜,排浦薯香(xiang)吃肚膨。】洛(luo)基(ji)(ji)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)是一道色(se)香(xiang)味(wei)俱全的(de)(de)(de)(de)名(ming)點,屬(shu)于海(hai)南菜(cai)。產自海(hai)南儋(dan)州洛(luo)基(ji)(ji)鎮(zhen),后(hou)洛(luo)基(ji)(ji)鎮(zhen)與那(nei)大(da)(da)鎮(zhen)合并,故(gu)“洛(luo)基(ji)(ji)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)”也稱“那(nei)大(da)(da)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)”,是海(hai)南三大(da)(da)名(ming)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)之一。基(ji)(ji)本原料(liao)是海(hai)南柊葉、糯米、咸(xian)蛋(dan)黃、豬肉,特色(se)是在粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子內額外添加了咸(xian)魚(yu)肉,非常的(de)(de)(de)(de)出名(ming)。海(hai)南粽(zong)(zong)(zong)中以儋(dan)州洛(luo)基(ji)(ji)鎮(zhen)的(de)(de)(de)(de)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子最為出名(ming),洛(luo)基(ji)(ji)的(de)(de)(de)(de)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子除以上幾種輔料(liao)外有的(de)(de)(de)(de)有加入咸(xian)魚(yu)肉。剝開熱乎(hu)乎(hu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)洛(luo)基(ji)(ji)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子,聞(wen)到芭蕉(jiao)和(he)糯米的(de)(de)(de)(de)清香(xiang)就(jiu)讓人(ren)胃口(kou)(kou)大(da)(da)開了,后(hou)有肉、蛋(dan)、魚(yu)更是美味(wei)可口(kou)(kou),真是大(da)(da)開食(shi)者胃口(kou)(kou)。
瑞溪粽
瑞溪(xi)粽是(shi)海南省傳統的小吃,成名(ming)于(yu)(yu)海南省澄邁縣瑞溪(xi)鎮。屬于(yu)(yu)端午節食品(pin)。是(shi)以糯米,豬(zhu)肉為主(zhu)要原(yuan)料制作而成,具有口感酥松,味道清香,吃后不膩的特點。
“瑞溪(xi)(xi)(xi)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)”始(shi)于清康熙年間,已近360年歷史。清初瑞溪(xi)(xi)(xi)建【墟(xu)】,時稱“崩(beng)(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)(xi)(xi)墟(xu)”,其(qi)(qi)(qi)名(ming)(ming)因南(nan)(nan)(nan)渡江沖刷引(yin)河岸(an)崩(beng)(beng)(beng)(beng)裂,故(gu)(gu)喚其(qi)(qi)(qi)名(ming)(ming)崩(beng)(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)(xi)(xi)。墟(xu)市開張之日,各村(cun)各鄉百(bai)姓,舞獅舞龍,敲鑼打(da)鼓,肩挑車(che)推各種農產品、小食、手工藝品來開市,其(qi)(qi)(qi)中就有(you)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)。府縣官員、各地豪紳(shen)商賈前來慶賀時,品嘗粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)后一致稱贊(zan):崩(beng)(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)(xi)(xi)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)是天底下最(zui)好(hao)吃的(de)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)!“崩(beng)(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)(xi)(xi)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)”自此(ci)得名(ming)(ming),后來瓊臺書院掌教(jiao)謝(xie)寶(bao)來崩(beng)(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)(xi)(xi)墟(xu)南(nan)(nan)(nan)文(wen)村(cun),為一曾(ceng)姓人家修族譜題寫《南(nan)(nan)(nan)文(wen)八景》時,非常愛吃“崩(beng)(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)(xi)(xi)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)”。過后,村(cun)人為感謝(xie)他,便挑一擔粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)往書院答(da)謝(xie)。謝(xie)掌教(jiao)認為“崩(beng)(beng)(beng)(beng)”寓意不祥,故(gu)(gu)改“崩(beng)(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)(xi)(xi)”為“瑞溪(xi)(xi)(xi)”。瑞溪(xi)(xi)(xi)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)也(ye)從(cong)此(ci)開始(shi)揚名(ming)(ming),與定安粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、儋州粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)并列為海南(nan)(nan)(nan)三大(da)名(ming)(ming)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)。制備(bei)瑞溪(xi)(xi)(xi)鎮的(de)基本原料是海南(nan)(nan)(nan)柊葉、糯米(mi)、咸蛋(dan)黃、豬肉(rou)。
海南煎粽
海南煎粽(zong)是一種不需要粽(zong)葉包(bao)裹的粽(zong)子。將糯米煮熟(shu)后拌入蓮子、冬菇、蝦米、干貝(bei)、豬油等配料(liao),捏制成糯米團(tuan)后沾裹鴨蛋液煎熟(shu)即可。
黎族三色粽
海南黎(li)(li)族素有節日食用三色(se)飯的(de)習俗。三色(se)粽即漢、黎(li)(li)食俗結合的(de)產物。
椰葉粽
用椰子樹葉將糯米圍(wei)裹成枕頭形狀煮熟(shu)而成的(de)粽子,流傳于海南黎苗族(zu)聚居區(qu)。
制作方法
定安黑豬肉粽制作方法
“定(ding)安粽子”由來(lai)已久,有獨特的內涵和品質。“定(ding)安粽子”是產于定(ding)安的糯(nuo)米、黑(hei)豬肉(rou)、紅泥咸(xian)鴨蛋黃、食(shi)用熟花(hua)生油和食(shi)用調(diao)料,用柊葉作(zuo)為包(bao)裹物,經包(bao)餡、成(cheng)形、煮制等工(gong)藝加工(gong)而成(cheng)在端午(wu)節(jie)(jie)食(shi)用為主、具有口感甘、香(xiang)、糯(nuo)、韌,以定(ding)安地區制作(zuo)工(gong)藝和風味特色為代表的傳(chuan)統節(jie)(jie)日食(shi)品。
海南定安(an)(an)粽子已注(zhu)冊為中國地理(li)標(biao)志證明商標(biao),對使用(yong)(yong)“定安(an)(an)粽子”地理(li)標(biao)志注(zhu)明商標(biao)的(de)(de)(de)粽子有著(zhu)嚴格(ge)的(de)(de)(de)要求:一是粽葉(xie)必須采自定安(an)(an)縣嶺口、翰林、龍(long)河、龍(long)門等火(huo)山(shan)(shan)地區(qu)生長的(de)(de)(de)草(cao)本植物(柊葉(xie))的(de)(de)(de)半老葉(xie)子;二是所用(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)(de)糯米必需采用(yong)(yong)上(shang)述(shu)火(huo)山(shan)(shan)地區(qu)所產的(de)(de)(de)優(you)質富(fu)硒糯米;三是所用(yong)(yong)粽餡必需采用(yong)(yong)著(zhu)名的(de)(de)(de)定安(an)(an)黑豬肉和用(yong)(yong)紅土泥腌制(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)咸鴨蛋黃(huang),加入精心配料制(zhi)成,經過長達12小時以上(shang)的(de)(de)(de)水煮而(er)形成。
包粽(zong)時(shi)(shi)先將三(san)四(si)片柊葉鋪開,薄(bo)(bo)薄(bo)(bo)地放米(mi)一(yi)層,肉餡(xian)一(yi)層,循(xun)環三(san)四(si)次,咸蛋(dan)黃放置中(zhong)間。雙手將棕葉一(yi)邊合(he)攏折疊,封住斗口(kou),多余的(de)(de)棕葉沿粽(zong)子(zi)輪廓折回剪齊,用細(xi)小(xiao)(xiao)麻繩(sheng)攔腰扎(zha)緊(jin),呈(cheng)瓷(ci)實的(de)(de)錐體狀(zhuang)。扎(zha)繩(sheng)很講究技巧,用力要均勻(yun),繩(sheng)子(zi)扎(zha)得(de)太(tai)松(song)米(mi)餡(xian)容易泄露,扎(zha)繩(sheng)太(tai)緊(jin)粽(zong)子(zi)成歪瓜裂棗狀(zhuang),外觀煞不好看(kan)。 煮(zhu)粽(zong)子(zi)十分講究火(huo)(huo)候,灶(zao)下的(de)(de)柴(chai)火(huo)(huo)燒得(de)正旺,火(huo)(huo)舌熊熊。水(shui)滾的(de)(de)時(shi)(shi)候,粽(zong)葉和糯米(mi)香(xiang)氣四(si)溢,蔓延周(zhou)遭。煮(zhu)粽(zong)時(shi)(shi)間的(de)(de)長短(duan)決定著粽(zong)味的(de)(de)濃厚醇香(xiang)。十幾個小(xiao)(xiao)時(shi)(shi)不斷地加柴(chai)添(tian)火(huo)(huo),按(an)葉加水(shui),煮(zhu)出來的(de)(de)粽(zong)子(zi)才夠味道。