品種介紹
在五(wu)月初五(wu)端(duan)午節(jie)當日,海(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)人(ren)有“洗龍(long)水”、泡(pao)(pao)藥水澡(zao)來凈身后祭祖的(de)(de)習俗(su),炎熱(re)的(de)(de)海(hai)(hai)島夏日,用艾(ai)草、薄(bo)荷(he)等(deng)藥草泡(pao)(pao)個熱(re)水澡(zao)后祭拜祖先,隨后一(yi)(yi)家人(ren)團(tuan)聚剝粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子、吃(chi)(chi)團(tuan)圓飯的(de)(de)場(chang)景可(ke)謂(wei)海(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)島的(de)(de)夏日風情,而因(yin)“洗龍(long)水”而人(ren)頭攢動的(de)(de)海(hai)(hai)灘(tan)更是(shi)演繹出了內地夏日沒(mei)有的(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)道風景線。海(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)端(duan)午節(jie)的(de)(de)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子也與大陸的(de)(de)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子不太相同,它由柊(zhong)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)包(bao)成方錐形,重(zhong)約半(ban)公斤左右,糯米中有咸蛋(dan)黃、叉(cha)燒(shao)肉(rou)、豬肉(rou)、豬蹄、咸魚等(deng)等(deng),熱(re)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)剝開(kai),先有柊(zhong)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)和糯米的(de)(de)清香(xiang),后有肉(rou)、蛋(dan)的(de)(de)濃香(xiang)。海(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)雖也有堿水粽(zong)(zong)(zong)、白糖豆沙(sha)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)等(deng)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子,但(dan)海(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)人(ren)最喜歡(huan)的(de)(de)、最推崇的(de)(de),或說,海(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)人(ren)對粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子的(de)(de)印象是(shi)還(huan)是(shi)用海(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)島產的(de)(de)海(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)柊(zhong)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(民間一(yi)(yi)般俗(su)稱茄柊(zhong)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)、冬葉(xie)(xie)(xie)或粽(zong)(zong)(zong)葉(xie)(xie)(xie))包(bao)裹的(de)(de)蛋(dan)黃豬肉(rou)餡(xian)(xian)料的(de)(de)咸粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子。對海(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)人(ren)來說,端(duan)午節(jie)沒(mei)吃(chi)(chi)到柊(zhong)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)包(bao)裹的(de)(de)咸蛋(dan)黃豬肉(rou)餡(xian)(xian)的(de)(de)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子就好比北方人(ren)春節(jie)沒(mei)吃(chi)(chi)餃子一(yi)(yi)樣(yang)。海(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)島各地端(duan)午節(jie)都會包(bao)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子,而尤其以三大名粽(zong)(zong)(zong),即定安粽(zong)(zong)(zong)、洛基粽(zong)(zong)(zong)、瑞溪(xi)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)最為(wei)聞名。
定安粽
定(ding)安(an)(an)(an)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子形成于明代(dai),是(shi)海(hai)南三大名粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)之一(yi),定(ding)安(an)(an)(an)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)分為(wei)兩種,用糯(nuo)米(mi)制作(zuo)的(de)是(shi)糯(nuo)米(mi)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong),用秈米(mi)制作(zuo)的(de)是(shi)秈米(mi)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)。制作(zuo)原料(liao)是(shi)海(hai)南柊(zhong)(zhong)葉(xie)(即(ji)茄柊(zhong)(zhong)葉(xie),柊(zhong)(zhong)葉(xie)屬(shu)竹芋(yu)科姜目),將采集的(de)柊(zhong)(zhong)葉(xie)煮(zhu)透晾干(gan)制作(zuo)成粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)葉(xie),再浸泡精白純正的(de)糯(nuo)米(mi)至柔軟,淘在(zai)簸筐里濾干(gan)水糯(nuo)米(mi)和豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou),豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou)一(yi)般(ban)用七分瘦肉(rou)三分肥肉(rou),并用鹽,香料(liao)等(deng)調料(liao)調制好(hao)稻(dao)米(mi)。將事先洗干(gan)凈的(de)柊(zhong)(zhong)葉(xie)鋪好(hao),在(zai)鋪上一(yi)層豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou),咸鴨蛋(dan),大米(mi),然后仔細(xi)包(bao)裹(guo)好(hao),放在(zai)鍋中蒸煮(zhu)十個小(xiao)時左(zuo)右方出(chu)爐完成,制作(zuo)的(de)過程十分講究(jiu)。定(ding)安(an)(an)(an)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子品種繁多,具(ju)有(you)代(dai)表性的(de)有(you)四家老字號:定(ding)安(an)(an)(an)東方酒店黑(hei)豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子、新泰來(lai)黑(hei)豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、文宗(zong)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、和潮(chao)黑(hei)豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong),還(huan)有(you)新竹四季(ji)鵝飯店黑(hei)豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、興順黑(hei)豬(zhu)(zhu)肉(rou)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)等(deng)。
洛基粽那大粽
【長坡米爛(lan)洛(luo)基(ji)粽(zong)(zong)(zong),王五狗(gou)肉(rou)香透胸。馬井紅魚(yu)(yu)(yu)香破(po)釜,排浦薯(shu)香吃(chi)肚膨。】洛(luo)基(ji)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)是一道色香味俱全的名(ming)(ming)點,屬(shu)于海(hai)南(nan)菜(cai)。產自(zi)海(hai)南(nan)儋州(zhou)洛(luo)基(ji)鎮(zhen),后洛(luo)基(ji)鎮(zhen)與(yu)那大(da)(da)(da)鎮(zhen)合并,故“洛(luo)基(ji)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)”也(ye)稱“那大(da)(da)(da)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)”,是海(hai)南(nan)三大(da)(da)(da)名(ming)(ming)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)之一。基(ji)本原料是海(hai)南(nan)柊(zhong)葉、糯米、咸(xian)蛋黃、豬(zhu)肉(rou),特色是在粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)內額外(wai)添加(jia)了咸(xian)魚(yu)(yu)(yu)肉(rou),非常的出名(ming)(ming)。海(hai)南(nan)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)中以儋州(zhou)洛(luo)基(ji)鎮(zhen)的粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)最為出名(ming)(ming),洛(luo)基(ji)的粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)除以上(shang)幾種輔料外(wai)有(you)的有(you)加(jia)入(ru)咸(xian)魚(yu)(yu)(yu)肉(rou)。剝開(kai)熱乎(hu)乎(hu)的洛(luo)基(ji)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi),聞到芭蕉和糯米的清(qing)香就讓人胃口(kou)(kou)大(da)(da)(da)開(kai)了,后有(you)肉(rou)、蛋、魚(yu)(yu)(yu)更是美(mei)味可(ke)口(kou)(kou),真是大(da)(da)(da)開(kai)食者胃口(kou)(kou)。
瑞溪粽
瑞溪粽是海(hai)南省傳統的(de)小吃,成(cheng)名(ming)于海(hai)南省澄邁縣瑞溪鎮。屬于端午節食品。是以糯米,豬肉為主要原料制作而成(cheng),具有口感酥松,味道(dao)清香,吃后(hou)不(bu)膩的(de)特(te)點。
“瑞(rui)溪(xi)(xi)粽(zong)(zong)”始于清康(kang)熙年間,已近360年歷(li)史(shi)。清初瑞(rui)溪(xi)(xi)建【墟(xu)(xu)】,時稱(cheng)“崩(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)(xi)墟(xu)(xu)”,其名(ming)因南(nan)渡(du)江沖刷引(yin)河岸(an)崩(beng)(beng)(beng)裂,故喚其名(ming)崩(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)(xi)。墟(xu)(xu)市開(kai)張之日,各村(cun)各鄉百(bai)姓(xing),舞獅舞龍,敲鑼打鼓,肩挑(tiao)車推各種農產(chan)品(pin)、小食、手(shou)工藝品(pin)來開(kai)市,其中就有(you)粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)。府(fu)縣官(guan)員、各地豪紳(shen)商(shang)賈前來慶賀時,品(pin)嘗粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)后一致稱(cheng)贊(zan):崩(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)(xi)粽(zong)(zong)是(shi)天底(di)下(xia)最好吃的粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)!“崩(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)(xi)粽(zong)(zong)”自(zi)此(ci)得(de)名(ming),后來瓊(qiong)臺書(shu)院掌(zhang)教謝寶來崩(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)(xi)墟(xu)(xu)南(nan)文村(cun),為一曾姓(xing)人家修(xiu)族譜題寫《南(nan)文八景》時,非常愛吃“崩(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)(xi)粽(zong)(zong)”。過后,村(cun)人為感謝他,便挑(tiao)一擔粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)往(wang)書(shu)院答(da)謝。謝掌(zhang)教認為“崩(beng)(beng)(beng)”寓意不祥,故改“崩(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)(xi)”為“瑞(rui)溪(xi)(xi)”。瑞(rui)溪(xi)(xi)粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)也從此(ci)開(kai)始揚(yang)名(ming),與定安粽(zong)(zong)、儋州(zhou)粽(zong)(zong)并列為海南(nan)三大(da)名(ming)粽(zong)(zong)。制(zhi)備瑞(rui)溪(xi)(xi)鎮的基本原料是(shi)海南(nan)柊葉、糯米(mi)、咸蛋黃(huang)、豬(zhu)肉。
海南煎粽
海南煎粽是(shi)一種不需要粽葉包(bao)裹(guo)的(de)粽子。將糯(nuo)米(mi)煮熟后拌入蓮子、冬(dong)菇、蝦米(mi)、干貝、豬油等(deng)配料(liao),捏制成(cheng)糯(nuo)米(mi)團后沾裹(guo)鴨蛋液煎熟即(ji)可(ke)。
黎族三色粽
海南(nan)黎族素有(you)節日食用三色飯的習俗。三色粽即漢、黎食俗結合(he)的產物。
椰葉粽
用(yong)椰子樹(shu)葉將糯米圍裹成枕頭形狀煮熟而成的粽子,流傳于海南黎苗族聚居區。
制作方法
定安黑豬肉粽制作方法
“定(ding)(ding)安(an)(an)粽(zong)子”由(you)來已久(jiu),有(you)獨特的內(nei)涵和(he)品質。“定(ding)(ding)安(an)(an)粽(zong)子”是(shi)產于定(ding)(ding)安(an)(an)的糯米、黑(hei)豬肉、紅泥咸鴨蛋黃、食用熟(shu)花生油(you)和(he)食用調(diao)料,用柊葉作為包裹物,經(jing)包餡、成(cheng)形(xing)、煮制等(deng)工(gong)藝(yi)加工(gong)而成(cheng)在端午節食用為主(zhu)、具有(you)口感(gan)甘(gan)、香、糯、韌,以定(ding)(ding)安(an)(an)地區制作工(gong)藝(yi)和(he)風味特色為代表的傳統節日食品。
海(hai)南定安(an)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)已注(zhu)冊為中(zhong)國地(di)(di)理標志(zhi)證明(ming)商標,對使用(yong)(yong)“定安(an)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)”地(di)(di)理標志(zhi)注(zhu)明(ming)商標的(de)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)子(zi)有著(zhu)嚴格(ge)的(de)要求:一是粽(zong)(zong)(zong)葉(xie)必(bi)須采自定安(an)縣嶺口、翰林、龍河(he)、龍門等火山地(di)(di)區生長的(de)草本植(zhi)物(柊葉(xie))的(de)半(ban)老葉(xie)子(zi);二是所用(yong)(yong)的(de)糯米(mi)必(bi)需(xu)采用(yong)(yong)上述火山地(di)(di)區所產的(de)優質富硒糯米(mi);三是所用(yong)(yong)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)餡(xian)必(bi)需(xu)采用(yong)(yong)著(zhu)名的(de)定安(an)黑豬肉和用(yong)(yong)紅土泥腌制的(de)咸鴨蛋黃,加入精心配料制成,經過長達12小時(shi)以上的(de)水(shui)煮而形成。
包粽(zong)時(shi)先(xian)將(jiang)三四片(pian)柊葉(xie)(xie)鋪開,薄薄地放(fang)米(mi)(mi)一層,肉餡一層,循環(huan)三四次,咸蛋黃(huang)放(fang)置(zhi)中間。雙手將(jiang)棕葉(xie)(xie)一邊合攏折疊,封住(zhu)斗口,多余的(de)棕葉(xie)(xie)沿粽(zong)子(zi)(zi)輪(lun)廓折回剪齊,用細小麻繩(sheng)攔(lan)腰扎(zha)緊(jin),呈瓷實的(de)錐體狀。扎(zha)繩(sheng)很講究技(ji)巧,用力要均勻,繩(sheng)子(zi)(zi)扎(zha)得太松(song)米(mi)(mi)餡容易泄露,扎(zha)繩(sheng)太緊(jin)粽(zong)子(zi)(zi)成(cheng)歪(wai)瓜裂棗(zao)狀,外觀煞不(bu)好看。 煮(zhu)粽(zong)子(zi)(zi)十(shi)分講究火候(hou),灶(zao)下的(de)柴火燒(shao)得正旺(wang),火舌(she)熊(xiong)熊(xiong)。水(shui)滾的(de)時(shi)候(hou),粽(zong)葉(xie)(xie)和糯米(mi)(mi)香氣四溢,蔓延周遭。煮(zhu)粽(zong)時(shi)間的(de)長(chang)短決定著粽(zong)味的(de)濃厚醇香。十(shi)幾(ji)個小時(shi)不(bu)斷(duan)地加柴添(tian)火,按葉(xie)(xie)加水(shui),煮(zhu)出來(lai)的(de)粽(zong)子(zi)(zi)才夠味道。