品種介紹
在五(wu)月初五(wu)端午節(jie)當日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri),海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)人(ren)有(you)(you)“洗(xi)龍(long)水”、泡藥水澡來(lai)凈身后祭祖的(de)(de)習俗,炎熱(re)的(de)(de)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)島夏日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri),用艾草、薄荷等藥草泡個熱(re)水澡后祭拜祖先,隨后一(yi)家(jia)人(ren)團(tuan)聚(ju)剝粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子、吃(chi)團(tuan)圓飯的(de)(de)場景可謂海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)島的(de)(de)夏日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)風情(qing),而因(yin)“洗(xi)龍(long)水”而人(ren)頭(tou)攢(zan)動(dong)的(de)(de)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)灘更是演繹出了內(nei)地夏日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)沒(mei)有(you)(you)的(de)(de)一(yi)道風景線。海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)端午節(jie)的(de)(de)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子也與(yu)大陸(lu)的(de)(de)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子不太相同,它由柊(zhong)葉(xie)包(bao)成方錐形,重約(yue)半公(gong)斤左右,糯(nuo)米中有(you)(you)咸蛋(dan)黃(huang)、叉(cha)燒肉、豬(zhu)肉、豬(zhu)蹄、咸魚等等,熱(re)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)剝開,先有(you)(you)柊(zhong)葉(xie)和糯(nuo)米的(de)(de)清香,后有(you)(you)肉、蛋(dan)的(de)(de)濃香。海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)雖也有(you)(you)堿水粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、白糖豆沙粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)等粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子,但(dan)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)人(ren)最(zui)喜歡(huan)的(de)(de)、最(zui)推(tui)崇的(de)(de),或說,海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)人(ren)對(dui)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子的(de)(de)印象是還(huan)是用海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)島產的(de)(de)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)柊(zhong)葉(xie)(民間一(yi)般俗稱茄柊(zhong)葉(xie)、冬葉(xie)或粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)葉(xie))包(bao)裹(guo)的(de)(de)蛋(dan)黃(huang)豬(zhu)肉餡料的(de)(de)咸粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子。對(dui)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)人(ren)來(lai)說,端午節(jie)沒(mei)吃(chi)到柊(zhong)葉(xie)包(bao)裹(guo)的(de)(de)咸蛋(dan)黃(huang)豬(zhu)肉餡的(de)(de)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子就好(hao)比北方人(ren)春節(jie)沒(mei)吃(chi)餃子一(yi)樣(yang)。海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)島各(ge)地端午節(jie)都會包(bao)粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)子,而尤其以(yi)三大名粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong),即定安粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、洛基粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)、瑞溪粽(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)最(zui)為聞名。
定安粽
定安(an)(an)粽(zong)(zong)子形成(cheng)(cheng)于明(ming)代,是(shi)(shi)海(hai)南三大名粽(zong)(zong)之一,定安(an)(an)粽(zong)(zong)分(fen)(fen)為(wei)兩種,用糯(nuo)(nuo)米(mi)制(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)作(zuo)的(de)是(shi)(shi)糯(nuo)(nuo)米(mi)粽(zong)(zong),用秈(xian)米(mi)制(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)作(zuo)的(de)是(shi)(shi)秈(xian)米(mi)粽(zong)(zong)。制(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)作(zuo)原料是(shi)(shi)海(hai)南柊(zhong)(zhong)葉(xie)(即茄(qie)柊(zhong)(zhong)葉(xie),柊(zhong)(zhong)葉(xie)屬(shu)竹芋科姜目),將(jiang)采集的(de)柊(zhong)(zhong)葉(xie)煮透晾(liang)干(gan)制(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)作(zuo)成(cheng)(cheng)粽(zong)(zong)葉(xie),再(zai)浸泡精白純(chun)正的(de)糯(nuo)(nuo)米(mi)至柔軟,淘在簸筐(kuang)里濾干(gan)水(shui)糯(nuo)(nuo)米(mi)和(he)豬(zhu)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou),豬(zhu)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)一般(ban)用七分(fen)(fen)瘦(shou)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)三分(fen)(fen)肥(fei)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou),并用鹽,香料等(deng)調料調制(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)好(hao)(hao)稻米(mi)。將(jiang)事先洗(xi)干(gan)凈的(de)柊(zhong)(zhong)葉(xie)鋪好(hao)(hao),在鋪上(shang)一層豬(zhu)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou),咸鴨(ya)蛋,大米(mi),然后(hou)仔細(xi)包裹(guo)好(hao)(hao),放在鍋(guo)中(zhong)蒸煮十(shi)個小時左右方出爐完(wan)成(cheng)(cheng),制(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)作(zuo)的(de)過程(cheng)十(shi)分(fen)(fen)講究(jiu)。定安(an)(an)粽(zong)(zong)子品種繁(fan)多(duo),具有代表性的(de)有四(si)家老字號:定安(an)(an)東方酒店黑豬(zhu)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)子、新泰來黑豬(zhu)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)、文宗粽(zong)(zong)、和(he)潮黑豬(zhu)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong),還有新竹四(si)季鵝(e)飯店黑豬(zhu)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)、興(xing)順黑豬(zhu)肉(rou)(rou)(rou)(rou)粽(zong)(zong)等(deng)。
洛基粽那大粽
【長坡(po)米爛洛(luo)(luo)基(ji)(ji)粽(zong)(zong),王五狗肉(rou)(rou)香透胸(xiong)。馬井紅(hong)魚(yu)香破(po)釜(fu),排(pai)浦薯香吃肚膨。】洛(luo)(luo)基(ji)(ji)粽(zong)(zong)是(shi)一(yi)道色香味俱(ju)全的(de)(de)名(ming)點,屬(shu)于海(hai)南(nan)菜。產自(zi)海(hai)南(nan)儋州洛(luo)(luo)基(ji)(ji)鎮(zhen),后洛(luo)(luo)基(ji)(ji)鎮(zhen)與(yu)那(nei)大(da)(da)鎮(zhen)合并,故“洛(luo)(luo)基(ji)(ji)粽(zong)(zong)”也稱“那(nei)大(da)(da)粽(zong)(zong)”,是(shi)海(hai)南(nan)三大(da)(da)名(ming)粽(zong)(zong)之一(yi)。基(ji)(ji)本原(yuan)料是(shi)海(hai)南(nan)柊(zhong)葉、糯(nuo)(nuo)米、咸蛋黃、豬肉(rou)(rou),特色是(shi)在粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)內額外添加了咸魚(yu)肉(rou)(rou),非(fei)常的(de)(de)出名(ming)。海(hai)南(nan)粽(zong)(zong)中以儋州洛(luo)(luo)基(ji)(ji)鎮(zhen)的(de)(de)粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)最為出名(ming),洛(luo)(luo)基(ji)(ji)的(de)(de)粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)除(chu)以上幾種(zhong)輔料外有(you)的(de)(de)有(you)加入咸魚(yu)肉(rou)(rou)。剝開熱乎(hu)(hu)乎(hu)(hu)的(de)(de)洛(luo)(luo)基(ji)(ji)粽(zong)(zong)子(zi),聞到芭(ba)蕉和糯(nuo)(nuo)米的(de)(de)清香就(jiu)讓人胃(wei)口(kou)大(da)(da)開了,后有(you)肉(rou)(rou)、蛋、魚(yu)更(geng)是(shi)美(mei)味可口(kou),真(zhen)是(shi)大(da)(da)開食者胃(wei)口(kou)。
瑞溪粽
瑞溪(xi)粽是海(hai)南省(sheng)傳統的(de)小吃(chi),成(cheng)名于海(hai)南省(sheng)澄邁縣瑞溪(xi)鎮。屬于端午節食品(pin)。是以糯米,豬肉(rou)為主要原料(liao)制作而成(cheng),具(ju)有口感酥(su)松,味(wei)道清香,吃(chi)后不(bu)膩的(de)特點(dian)。
“瑞(rui)(rui)(rui)溪(xi)粽(zong)(zong)”始(shi)于清(qing)(qing)康熙年間,已近360年歷史。清(qing)(qing)初瑞(rui)(rui)(rui)溪(xi)建(jian)【墟】,時(shi)稱“崩(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)墟”,其(qi)名(ming)(ming)(ming)因南渡江沖刷引河岸(an)崩(beng)(beng)(beng)裂,故(gu)喚其(qi)名(ming)(ming)(ming)崩(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)。墟市開(kai)張之日,各(ge)(ge)村各(ge)(ge)鄉百(bai)姓,舞獅舞龍(long),敲(qiao)鑼(luo)打鼓,肩挑(tiao)車推(tui)各(ge)(ge)種農產品(pin)、小食、手(shou)工藝品(pin)來(lai)開(kai)市,其(qi)中就有(you)粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)。府縣官員(yuan)、各(ge)(ge)地(di)豪紳商賈(jia)前來(lai)慶賀時(shi),品(pin)嘗粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)后一(yi)致(zhi)稱贊:崩(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)粽(zong)(zong)是天底下最好吃(chi)的粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)!“崩(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)粽(zong)(zong)”自(zi)此得名(ming)(ming)(ming),后來(lai)瓊臺(tai)書(shu)院(yuan)掌教謝寶來(lai)崩(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)墟南文村,為一(yi)曾姓人(ren)家修(xiu)族(zu)譜題(ti)寫《南文八景》時(shi),非常愛(ai)吃(chi)“崩(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)粽(zong)(zong)”。過(guo)后,村人(ren)為感謝他,便挑(tiao)一(yi)擔(dan)粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)往(wang)書(shu)院(yuan)答謝。謝掌教認為“崩(beng)(beng)(beng)”寓意不祥,故(gu)改“崩(beng)(beng)(beng)溪(xi)”為“瑞(rui)(rui)(rui)溪(xi)”。瑞(rui)(rui)(rui)溪(xi)粽(zong)(zong)子(zi)(zi)也從此開(kai)始(shi)揚名(ming)(ming)(ming),與定安粽(zong)(zong)、儋州(zhou)粽(zong)(zong)并列為海南三大(da)名(ming)(ming)(ming)粽(zong)(zong)。制備瑞(rui)(rui)(rui)溪(xi)鎮的基本(ben)原料是海南柊(zhong)葉(xie)、糯(nuo)米、咸蛋黃、豬肉。
海南煎粽
海南煎(jian)粽是一種不(bu)需要粽葉(xie)包裹的粽子。將糯米煮熟(shu)后拌入蓮子、冬菇(gu)、蝦(xia)米、干貝、豬(zhu)油等配料(liao),捏制成糯米團(tuan)后沾裹鴨蛋液煎(jian)熟(shu)即可。
黎族三色粽
海南黎族(zu)素有(you)節日食用三色(se)飯的習(xi)俗。三色(se)粽即(ji)漢、黎食俗結合的產物。
椰葉粽
用椰(ye)子(zi)樹葉(xie)將糯米圍(wei)裹成枕頭形狀煮熟而成的(de)粽(zong)子(zi),流傳于海南黎苗(miao)族聚居區(qu)。
制作方法
定安黑豬肉粽制作方法
“定安粽子(zi)”由(you)來(lai)已久(jiu),有獨特的(de)內涵和(he)品(pin)質。“定安粽子(zi)”是產于(yu)定安的(de)糯(nuo)米(mi)、黑豬肉、紅泥咸鴨(ya)蛋黃(huang)、食用(yong)熟花生油和(he)食用(yong)調料,用(yong)柊葉作為(wei)包裹物(wu),經包餡、成形、煮(zhu)制(zhi)等工(gong)藝加(jia)工(gong)而成在端(duan)午節食用(yong)為(wei)主、具有口感甘、香、糯(nuo)、韌,以定安地區制(zhi)作工(gong)藝和(he)風味特色(se)為(wei)代(dai)表的(de)傳統節日食品(pin)。
海南(nan)定(ding)安粽(zong)(zong)子已注冊為中國地理標志證明(ming)商標,對使用(yong)(yong)“定(ding)安粽(zong)(zong)子”地理標志注明(ming)商標的(de)(de)粽(zong)(zong)子有著嚴格的(de)(de)要求:一是(shi)(shi)粽(zong)(zong)葉必(bi)須采自定(ding)安縣嶺口、翰林(lin)、龍河、龍門(men)等(deng)火(huo)(huo)山地區生(sheng)長的(de)(de)草本植物(wu)(柊葉)的(de)(de)半老葉子;二是(shi)(shi)所(suo)用(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)糯(nuo)米必(bi)需(xu)采用(yong)(yong)上(shang)述火(huo)(huo)山地區所(suo)產的(de)(de)優質富硒(xi)糯(nuo)米;三是(shi)(shi)所(suo)用(yong)(yong)粽(zong)(zong)餡必(bi)需(xu)采用(yong)(yong)著名的(de)(de)定(ding)安黑豬肉和用(yong)(yong)紅土(tu)泥(ni)腌制的(de)(de)咸(xian)鴨蛋黃,加入精心配料制成,經過長達12小時以上(shang)的(de)(de)水(shui)煮而(er)形成。
包粽時(shi)先(xian)將(jiang)三(san)四(si)片柊(zhong)葉(xie)鋪開(kai),薄薄地放米一層(ceng),肉(rou)餡(xian)一層(ceng),循環三(san)四(si)次,咸(xian)蛋黃放置中間(jian)。雙手將(jiang)棕(zong)葉(xie)一邊(bian)合攏折疊,封(feng)住斗口(kou),多余(yu)的(de)(de)棕(zong)葉(xie)沿粽子(zi)(zi)輪廓折回剪齊(qi),用細小麻(ma)繩(sheng)攔(lan)腰扎(zha)緊(jin),呈瓷實的(de)(de)錐體狀。扎(zha)繩(sheng)很講(jiang)究技巧,用力要均(jun)勻,繩(sheng)子(zi)(zi)扎(zha)得太松(song)米餡(xian)容易泄(xie)露,扎(zha)繩(sheng)太緊(jin)粽子(zi)(zi)成歪瓜裂棗狀,外觀煞不(bu)好看。 煮(zhu)粽子(zi)(zi)十(shi)分講(jiang)究火(huo)(huo)候,灶下的(de)(de)柴(chai)火(huo)(huo)燒得正旺,火(huo)(huo)舌熊熊。水滾的(de)(de)時(shi)候,粽葉(xie)和(he)糯米香(xiang)(xiang)氣四(si)溢,蔓延周遭。煮(zhu)粽時(shi)間(jian)的(de)(de)長短決定(ding)著粽味(wei)的(de)(de)濃厚醇(chun)香(xiang)(xiang)。十(shi)幾個(ge)小時(shi)不(bu)斷地加(jia)柴(chai)添火(huo)(huo),按(an)葉(xie)加(jia)水,煮(zhu)出來的(de)(de)粽子(zi)(zi)才夠味(wei)道。