溝幫子(zi)水(shui)餡(xian)包(bao)子(zi),以其(qi)獨特(te)的(de)(de)口感(gan),油而(er)不膩的(de)(de)感(gan)覺,而(er)得(de)到(dao)了(le)(le)多(duo)數(shu)人的(de)(de)青睞(lai),在(zai)錦州(zhou)可以說是(shi)家(jia)喻戶(hu)曉。據(ju)《北鎮縣志》記載,老(lao)馬(ma)家(jia)老(lao)爺(ye)子(zi)馬(ma)殿(dian)福(已(yi)故(gu))從解放前就(jiu)開始做水(shui)餡(xian)包(bao)子(zi)了(le)(le),這個是(shi)最正(zheng)宗的(de)(de)了(le)(le)。不過在(zai)錦州(zhou)并(bing)沒有標出是(shi)馬(ma)家(jia)還是(shi)張家(jia),常以“溝幫子(zi)水(shui)餡(xian)包(bao)子(zi)”的(de)(de)招牌(pai)居多(duo)。味(wei)道真(zhen)的(de)(de)都(dou)不錯,都(dou)有特(te)點(dian),尤其(qi)是(shi)咬一口,包(bao)子(zi)餡(xian)中的(de)(de)水(shui)就(jiu)流(liu)了(le)(le)出來,我想可能也(ye)就(jiu)是(shi)由于(yu)這種(zhong)原因,才(cai)起名叫水(shui)餡(xian)包(bao)子(zi)吧。
水餡(xian)(xian)(xian)包(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)創(chuang)始人楊澍,字沛霖,民(min)國(guo)(guo)16年(nian)(公元1927年(nian))前(qian)后,從河北(bei)省寧河縣蘆臺逃荒來(lai)到溝幫子(zi)(zi)(zi)鎮落腳(jiao)。開始他(ta)在(zai)街面租了兩(liang)間小(xiao)(xiao)房,專做棗饅頭、黃米面切糕(gao),后來(lai)改為包(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)館(guan)(guan)。楊澍手(shou)頭利(li)落,技(ji)藝精巧,并善于采人之(zhi)(zhi)長(chang),補己之(zhi)(zhi)短。常與外地(di)面案(an)行家(jia)交(jiao)流經(jing)驗,很快掌握(wo)了天津包(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)、開封包(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)、保定包(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)的(de)制(zhi)作(zuo)特(te)點(dian)。在(zai)此基礎(chu)上(shang)發展(zhan)創(chuang)新,終于形成自(zi)己的(de)獨特(te)風格。在(zai)調(diao)料上(shang),他(ta)喜用海參、干貝、蝦仁(ren);在(zai)肉料上(shang),專用豬前(qian)槽,肉質肥瘦相宜,香嫩可口;在(zai)制(zhi)作(zuo)上(shang),棄骨(gu)湯而改用雞湯拌餡(xian)(xian)(xian),味(wei)道(dao)更加(jia)鮮(xian)美。因此買(mai)賣(mai)興隆(long),到1939年(nian),龐守山看(kan)到楊澍包(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)館(guan)(guan)日益興旺,遂以(yi)高價聘請楊家(jia)第一代門徒李維(wei)國(guo)(guo),辦起了龐家(jia)水餡(xian)(xian)(xian)包(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)館(guan)(guan)。兩(liang)家(jia)競(jing)爭,各(ge)有千秋。中(zhong)華(hua)人民(min)共和國(guo)(guo)建立以(yi)后,此傳統(tong)小(xiao)(xiao)吃得以(yi)發展(zhan)。如今,溝幫子(zi)(zi)(zi)水餡(xian)(xian)(xian)包(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)仍是傳統(tong)小(xiao)(xiao)吃中(zhong)的(de)上(shang)乘佳品(pin),吸引著南(nan)來(lai)北(bei)往的(de)食客。
基本組成(cheng)(cheng)為(以重(zhong)量(liang)計(ji))精瘦(shou)肉100份(fen)、海(hai)(hai)米1~2份(fen)、味(wei)精1~2份(fen)、鮮姜(jiang)10~13份(fen)、面(mian)(mian)(mian)醬(jiang)2~3份(fen)、花(hua)椒(jiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)0.2~0.3份(fen)、大(da)(da)蔥10~12份(fen)、香油(you)(you)0.2~0.3份(fen)、醬(jiang)油(you)(you)18~20份(fen)、雞湯20份(fen)~40份(fen)、精面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)90~100份(fen)和適量(liang)水(shui)(shui)。制備(bei)方(fang)法為將精瘦(shou)肉、鮮姜(jiang)、大(da)(da)蔥攪碎,再(zai)(zai)與海(hai)(hai)米、味(wei)精、面(mian)(mian)(mian)醬(jiang)、花(hua)椒(jiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)、香油(you)(you)和醬(jiang)油(you)(you)混(hun)合制成(cheng)(cheng)肉餡(xian);再(zai)(zai)用(yong)雞湯拌餡(xian),使肉餡(xian)呈稀(xi)狀;將所取精面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)中30~36%(重(zhong)量(liang))精面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)發面(mian)(mian)(mian),用(yong)適量(liang)堿提面(mian)(mian)(mian),將其(qi)余精面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)用(yong)溫水(shui)(shui)和成(cheng)(cheng)水(shui)(shui)面(mian)(mian)(mian),再(zai)(zai)將水(shui)(shui)面(mian)(mian)(mian)和發面(mian)(mian)(mian)勾兌,制成(cheng)(cheng)圓(yuan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)片;取適量(liang)肉餡(xian)包(bao)制成(cheng)(cheng)水(shui)(shui)餡(xian)包(bao)子,直接(jie)蒸熟或經速凍(dong)后(hou)制成(cheng)(cheng)速凍(dong)水(shui)(shui)餡(xian)包(bao)子。優點是皮薄肉餡(xian)稀(xi)、色白均(jun)勻(yun)、味(wei)道鮮美、油(you)(you)而不(bu)膩。