溝(gou)幫(bang)子(zi)(zi)水(shui)(shui)(shui)餡包(bao)子(zi)(zi),以其(qi)獨特的口(kou)感(gan),油而(er)不膩(ni)的感(gan)覺(jue),而(er)得到了(le)(le)多(duo)數(shu)人的青睞,在(zai)錦(jin)州可以說是(shi)(shi)家喻戶曉。據《北鎮(zhen)縣(xian)志》記載,老(lao)馬家老(lao)爺子(zi)(zi)馬殿福(已故)從解放前就開始做水(shui)(shui)(shui)餡包(bao)子(zi)(zi)了(le)(le),這個是(shi)(shi)最正(zheng)宗的了(le)(le)。不過(guo)在(zai)錦(jin)州并沒有(you)標出(chu)是(shi)(shi)馬家還是(shi)(shi)張家,常以“溝(gou)幫(bang)子(zi)(zi)水(shui)(shui)(shui)餡包(bao)子(zi)(zi)”的招(zhao)牌居多(duo)。味(wei)道真的都(dou)不錯,都(dou)有(you)特點(dian),尤其(qi)是(shi)(shi)咬一(yi)口(kou),包(bao)子(zi)(zi)餡中的水(shui)(shui)(shui)就流了(le)(le)出(chu)來,我(wo)想可能也就是(shi)(shi)由于這種(zhong)原因(yin),才起名叫水(shui)(shui)(shui)餡包(bao)子(zi)(zi)吧(ba)。
水(shui)餡(xian)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)創始人(ren)(ren)楊(yang)澍,字沛(pei)霖,民國16年(nian)(nian)(公元1927年(nian)(nian))前(qian)(qian)后(hou),從河北(bei)省寧河縣蘆臺逃荒(huang)來到(dao)(dao)(dao)溝幫子(zi)(zi)鎮落腳。開始他(ta)在街面(mian)租了(le)兩間小房(fang),專(zhuan)做棗饅頭(tou)(tou)、黃米面(mian)切糕(gao),后(hou)來改(gai)為包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)館(guan)(guan)。楊(yang)澍手頭(tou)(tou)利落,技(ji)藝精巧,并善于采人(ren)(ren)之長(chang),補己之短(duan)。常與外地(di)面(mian)案行家交(jiao)流經(jing)驗,很快掌握了(le)天津包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)、開封包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)、保定包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)的制作特點。在此(ci)(ci)基礎上發(fa)展創新(xin),終(zhong)于形成自(zi)己的獨(du)特風格。在調(diao)料上,他(ta)喜用海參、干(gan)貝、蝦仁;在肉(rou)料上,專(zhuan)用豬前(qian)(qian)槽,肉(rou)質肥瘦相宜,香(xiang)嫩可口;在制作上,棄骨湯(tang)而改(gai)用雞湯(tang)拌餡(xian),味道(dao)更加鮮(xian)美。因此(ci)(ci)買賣興(xing)隆,到(dao)(dao)(dao)1939年(nian)(nian),龐(pang)守山看到(dao)(dao)(dao)楊(yang)澍包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)館(guan)(guan)日益(yi)興(xing)旺,遂以高價聘(pin)請楊(yang)家第一代門(men)徒李維(wei)國,辦起(qi)了(le)龐(pang)家水(shui)餡(xian)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)館(guan)(guan)。兩家競爭(zheng),各(ge)有(you)千秋。中華人(ren)(ren)民共和國建立(li)以后(hou),此(ci)(ci)傳(chuan)統小吃得(de)以發(fa)展。如今,溝幫子(zi)(zi)水(shui)餡(xian)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)子(zi)(zi)仍是傳(chuan)統小吃中的上乘佳(jia)品,吸引著南來北(bei)往的食客(ke)。
基本組成為(以重(zhong)(zhong)量計)精(jing)(jing)(jing)瘦肉(rou)100份、海米1~2份、味(wei)精(jing)(jing)(jing)1~2份、鮮(xian)姜10~13份、面(mian)(mian)(mian)醬2~3份、花椒面(mian)(mian)(mian)0.2~0.3份、大(da)蔥10~12份、香油(you)(you)0.2~0.3份、醬油(you)(you)18~20份、雞(ji)湯20份~40份、精(jing)(jing)(jing)面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉90~100份和(he)適量水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)。制備方法為將精(jing)(jing)(jing)瘦肉(rou)、鮮(xian)姜、大(da)蔥攪碎,再與海米、味(wei)精(jing)(jing)(jing)、面(mian)(mian)(mian)醬、花椒面(mian)(mian)(mian)、香油(you)(you)和(he)醬油(you)(you)混合制成肉(rou)餡(xian);再用(yong)雞(ji)湯拌餡(xian),使肉(rou)餡(xian)呈稀狀;將所(suo)取(qu)精(jing)(jing)(jing)面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉中30~36%(重(zhong)(zhong)量)精(jing)(jing)(jing)面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉發面(mian)(mian)(mian),用(yong)適量堿提面(mian)(mian)(mian),將其余精(jing)(jing)(jing)面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉用(yong)溫(wen)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)和(he)成水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)面(mian)(mian)(mian),再將水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)面(mian)(mian)(mian)和(he)發面(mian)(mian)(mian)勾兌,制成圓面(mian)(mian)(mian)片;取(qu)適量肉(rou)餡(xian)包(bao)制成水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)餡(xian)包(bao)子,直接(jie)蒸熟或經(jing)速凍后制成速凍水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)餡(xian)包(bao)子。優點是(shi)皮薄肉(rou)餡(xian)稀、色白均(jun)勻(yun)、味(wei)道鮮(xian)美、油(you)(you)而不膩。