明(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)初建之時占地約2萬(wan)余(yu)畝,于元至(zhi)正二(er)十(shi)六(liu)年(nian)(公元1366年(nian))始建,洪(hong)武十(shi)二(er)年(nian)(公元1379年(nian))竣工。洪(hong)武二(er)年(nian),薦號英陵(ling)(ling),后(hou)改稱(cheng)皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)。明(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)主要有(you)皇(huang)城、磚(zhuan)城、土城三道,殿宇、房舍千余(yu)間,陵(ling)(ling)丘(qiu)、石刻群等。明(ming)末以來,人為破壞和風雨侵蝕,宮(gong)闕殿宇廢為遺址(zhi),現僅存陵(ling)(ling)丘(qiu)及石刻群。明(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)雖非帝(di)王之陵(ling)(ling),但(dan)“宮(gong)闕殿宇、壯麗森(sen)嚴”。
明(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)有三(san)重城(cheng)(cheng)垣(yuan),里為(wei)皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng),周(zhou)長(chang)251米,四門(men)(men)紅土(tu)(tu)泥飾,中為(wei)磚城(cheng)(cheng),周(zhou)長(chang)約3公(gong)里,外為(wei)土(tu)(tu)城(cheng)(cheng),周(zhou)長(chang)14公(gong)里。明(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)總體布局采用“三(san)套(tao)方(fang)城(cheng)(cheng)”,把陵(ling)園(yuan)展成(cheng)三(san)重城(cheng)(cheng)垣(yuan)的(de)(de)(de)格局,將石(shi)(shi)刻列置(zhi)(zhi)于(yu)皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)(zhi)前,陵(ling)墓在皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)(zhi)后,享殿(dian)居皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)(zhi)中,華表置(zhi)(zhi)于(yu)石(shi)(shi)獸與石(shi)(shi)人石(shi)(shi)馬之(zhi)(zhi)間。明(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)由于(yu)陵(ling)向坐南(nan)朝(chao)北(bei)偏(pian)東(dong),因此坐落在南(nan)北(bei)中軸線(xian)(xian)上的(de)(de)(de)建(jian)筑物均是面對(dui)北(bei)向,且以外城(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)門(men)(men)為(wei)正門(men)(men),明(ming)顯的(de)(de)(de)斜(xie)向東(dong)北(bei)的(de)(de)(de)中都城(cheng)(cheng)。由北(bei)而南(nan)進土(tu)(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)正紅門(men)(men),依次(ci)為(wei)紅橋(qiao)、欞(ling)星門(men)(men)、磚城(cheng)(cheng)明(ming)樓、神道、御橋(qiao)、皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)金門(men)(men)、皇(huang)堂、皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)后紅門(men)(men)、墳丘、磚城(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)明(ming)樓、土(tu)(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)門(men)(men)。在這條3.4公(gong)里長(chang)的(de)(de)(de)中軸線(xian)(xian)兩旁,對(dui)稱(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)建(jian)有東(dong)角(jiao)門(men)(men)和(he)西(xi)(xi)(xi)角(jiao)門(men)(men),左右兩排石(shi)(shi)像生,皇(huang)陵(ling)碑(bei)(bei)和(he)無字碑(bei)(bei),東(dong)廡(wu)和(he)西(xi)(xi)(xi)廡(wu),東(dong)明(ming)樓和(he)西(xi)(xi)(xi)明(ming)樓,東(dong)門(men)(men)和(he)西(xi)(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)。陵(ling)垣(yuan)內外的(de)(de)(de)其他建(jian)筑,也大(da)體是東(dong)西(xi)(xi)(xi)對(dui)稱(cheng)或南(nan)北(bei)對(dui)稱(cheng)。
皇城
皇(huang)陵修建(jian)時建(jian)皇(huang)城(cheng)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo),磚壘(lei),高(gao)二(er)丈,周七(qi)十五丈五尺,紅土泥飭。正殿九間,丹陛三(san)級,黃(huang)琉(liu)璃瓦(wa)、青碧繪彩。金門五間。左(zuo)右(you)(you)廡,各(ge)十一(yi)(yi)間。燎爐一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)。角(jiao)門左(zuo)右(you)(you)各(ge)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)。后紅門五座(zuo)。碑亭左(zuo)右(you)(you)各(ge)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)。御(yu)橋五座(zuo),跨金水河。華表(biao)并石人、石獸(shou)共三(san)十六(liu)對,在北(bei)城(cheng)門內,兩(liang)傍(bang)直(zhi)抵(di)金門外御(yu)橋北(bei)止(zhi)。以上(shang)俱黃(huang)琉(liu)璃瓦(wa),青碧彩繪,二(er)十家(jia)人戶(hu)輪流(liu)直(zhi)守(shou)。
磚城
皇陵(ling)建磚城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),里(li)(li)外磚筑,高(gao)二丈(zhang),周六(liu)(liu)里(li)(li)一(yi)百一(yi)十(shi)八步,開四(si)門(men)(men)(men),俱(ju)有樓。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓四(si)門(men)(men)(men)四(si)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)重(zhong)檐。具服殿(dian)六(liu)(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳(shan)廚(chu)(chu)二間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。官廳六(liu)(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。直(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)房(fang)(fang)為四(si)門(men)(men)(men)直(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)房(fang)(fang)左右各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),欞星(xing)門(men)(men)(men)外直(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)房(fang)(fang)左右各(ge)(ge)十(shi)一(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。以(yi)上俱(ju)阜瓦。欞星(xing)門(men)(men)(men)三(san)(san)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),綠琉璃飭。紅(hong)橋共(gong)五(wu)(wu)(wu)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。以(yi)上十(shi)一(yi)社人戶(hu)(hu)輪流(liu)(liu)看守(shou)。神(shen)(shen)廚(chu)(chu)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在北(bei)(bei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)外東(dong)(dong)。二十(shi)家廚(chu)(chu)役人戶(hu)(hu)直(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)守(shou)。神(shen)(shen)廚(chu)(chu)五(wu)(wu)(wu)門(men)(men)(men)。神(shen)(shen)庫南(nan)北(bei)(bei)各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。宰(zai)牲廚(chu)(chu)六(liu)(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。酒房(fang)(fang)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。門(men)(men)(men)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。天(tian)池一(yi)口(kou)。鼓房(fang)(fang)一(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),遇(yu)祭(ji)支(zhi)更。齋宮一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),去北(bei)(bei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)東(dong)(dong)北(bei)(bei)一(yi)里(li)(li),新收入(ru)(ru)戶(hu)(hu)輪流(liu)(liu)直(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)日看守(shou)。正殿(dian)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。穿堂(tang)(tang)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。寢(qin)殿(dian)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳(shan)廚(chu)(chu)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。左右廡各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅(hong)門(men)(men)(men)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。中門(men)(men)(men)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。廂(xiang)房(fang)(fang)東(dong)(dong)西各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。角門(men)(men)(men)二座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。直(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)房(fang)(fang)東(dong)(dong)西各(ge)(ge)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅(hong)橋三(san)(san)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),已阜瓦蓋建。混堂(tang)(tang)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),去北(bei)(bei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)東(dong)(dong)北(bei)(bei)二里(li)(li),新收入(ru)(ru)戶(hu)(hu)直(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)守(shou)。正房(fang)(fang)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。水池二座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。門(men)(men)(men)一(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。
土城
皇(huang)陵(ling)建土(tu)城(cheng)一座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),周二十八里,四十四社人(ren)戶輪流(liu)直守,撥(bo)設皇(huang)陵(ling)衛巡綽。正紅門(men)(men)三座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在北(bei),向(xiang)東(dong)(dong)北(bei)。神路長三里,傍(bang)植松柏,路達都城(cheng),亦設本(ben)衛巡守。東(dong)(dong)西角門(men)(men)二座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。官(guan)廳二座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),即祠祭(ji)署衙(ya)門(men)(men),東(dong)(dong)、西、南(nan)門(men)(men)各三間(jian)。直房(fang)東(dong)(dong)、西、南(nan)門(men)(men)外各三間(jian)。下馬牌八座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在四門(men)(men)外。鋪舍十三座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。水(shui)關、大水(shui)關一座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在土(tu)城(cheng)東(dong)(dong)北(bei)角內,水(shui)從(cong)此(ci)流(liu)出入淮。小水(shui)關四面共十九(jiu)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。皇(huang)堂(tang)橋一座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在大水(shui)關之(zhi)北(bei)。外直房(fang)四十間(jian),在東(dong)(dong)角門(men)(men)外,各衙(ya)門(men)(men)陪祭(ji)官(guan)駐馬處。
【皇陵城垣】
土城遺址
皇陵土(tu)城為外城,開六個(ge)門,以所朝(chao)的方向稱東、西(xi)、南、北(bei)四門,北(bei)門東西(xi)各有一角門。土(tu)城遺址(zhi)(zhi)周長15.44公里。據當地群(qun)眾反映,抗日戰(zhan)爭期間土(tu)埂高出周圍農田(tian)。建(jian)國后群(qun)眾多于此取碎磚,土(tu)埂被(bei)夷平(ping)。今遺址(zhi)(zhi)依(yi)稀可見。
磚城遺址
皇陵磚(zhuan)城為二(er)道(dao)城,《鳳陽(yang)新書》載:“里外磚(zhuan)筑,高(gao)二(er)丈(zhang),周六里一(yi)百(bai)一(yi)十八(ba)步(bu),開四門,俱有樓(lou)”。門名以所朝方(fang)向,稱為東、西、南(nan)、北明樓(lou)。明亡后,磚(zhuan)城及明樓(lou)毀圮,現僅(jin)存遺址。
皇城遺址
皇城(cheng)為皇陵最(zui)里(li)一道(dao)城(cheng),《鳳陽新書》載:“磚壘,高(gao)二丈,周七十五(wu)(wu)丈五(wu)(wu)尺”。北城(cheng)墻正(zheng)中(zhong)為金門,五(wu)(wu)間,南城(cheng)墻正(zheng)中(zhong)為后紅門,五(wu)(wu)座。今門及城(cheng)墻久毀。
【皇(huang)城正(zheng)殿遺址】
皇城正殿
正殿(dian)又稱“祭殿(dian)”、“享殿(dian)”、“皇堂”。明(ming)洪武十(shi)(shi)一(yi)年夏四月(yue)(yue)始建,十(shi)(shi)二(er)年閏(run)五月(yue)(yue)丁已落成。《鳳陽(yang)新(xin)書(shu)》載:“正殿(dian)九間,丹陛(bi)三級,黃琉璃,青碧繪彩”。東西(xi)廡(wu),各十(shi)(shi)一(yi)間。崇禎八年正月(yue)(yue)丙寅,毀于兵(bing)火。今遺(yi)址尚(shang)在(zai),仍(reng)高(gao)出(chu)附近地面(mian)。西(xi)部遺(yi)存1.6米和(he)1.3米見方柱(zhu)礎(chu)石(shi)各1塊、螭首石(shi)構件1塊。原有蟠龍欄桿柱(zhu)石(shi)一(yi)個,已運至龍興寺陳列于《明(ming)皇陵(ling)文物陳列室》內。
【皇陵陵丘】
皇陵石像生
皇陵石(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)生(sheng)列于皇陵磚(zhuan)城北(bei)(bei)門內神道兩側,為32對(dui),自北(bei)(bei)向南順(shun)序(xu)為麒麟(lin)2對(dui)、石(shi)(shi)(shi)獅(shi)8對(dui)、華表2對(dui)、石(shi)(shi)(shi)馬及(ji)控(kong)馬者6對(dui)、石(shi)(shi)(shi)虎4對(dui)、石(shi)(shi)(shi)羊4對(dui)、文臣、武(wu)將、內侍(shi)各2對(dui)。民國22年(nian)(1933年(nian))曾(ceng)對(dui)石(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)生(sheng)作(zuo)過一次整(zheng)修。1對(dui)內侍(shi)和(he)(he)1對(dui)控(kong)馬人(ren)缺頭(tou),均(jun)從頸端啟槽補上(shang),一組石(shi)(shi)(shi)馬及(ji)控(kong)馬人(ren)身部開裂(lie),也(ye)鑿洞(dong)眼以(yi)鐵扒加固(gu)。“文化大(da)革命”初(chu)期,石(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)生(sheng)遭到破(po)壞(huai)。17對(dui)石(shi)(shi)(shi)獸被推(tui)倒(dao)4對(dui),32條獸腿斷缺,4對(dui)底座(zuo)殘損,6對(dui)石(shi)(shi)(shi)人(ren),1人(ren)倒(dao)地,1人(ren)上(shang)部斷裂(lie),華表均(jun)被推(tui)倒(dao),斷成2至3截,石(shi)(shi)(shi)馬及(ji)控(kong)馬人(ren)被砸得殘缺不全,僅存1人(ren)3馬完(wan)好。1981年(nian)7月(yue)、1983年(nian)4月(yue)和(he)(he)1985年(nian)6月(yue)相繼修復,除1馬及(ji)1個控(kong)馬人(ren)外,余皆恢(hui)復原貌。石(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)生(sheng)均(jun)系(xi)整(zheng)塊(kuai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)料琢成,質地堅(jian)硬,呈黑色(se),有紅筋(jin),皇陵石(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)生(sheng)歷經600余年(nian),至今石(shi)(shi)(shi)人(ren)衣著、扣(kou)帶、石(shi)(shi)(shi)獸毛發等(deng)纖(xian)細部分,仍(reng)如新刻,極為清晰。石(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)生(sheng)造型(xing)逼(bi)真(zhen),刻工精細。
皇陵碑
皇(huang)陵(ling)碑(bei)(bei)乃“大明(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)之碑(bei)(bei)”的簡(jian)稱,位于皇(huang)陵(ling)神道南(nan)端(duan)西側,洪(hong)武(wu)十(shi)一(yi)年七月建。該(gai)碑(bei)(bei)由碑(bei)(bei)首(shou)、云盤(pan)、碑(bei)(bei)身(shen)(shen)、駝峰和(he)鰲坐五(wu)部(bu)分組成,通高6.87米。歷經600余(yu)年,仍屹立原處,完好無損。原有(you)碑(bei)(bei)亭,久毀,柱礎石尚在。洪(hong)武(wu)十(shi)一(yi)年,命(ming)江陰侯吳良督工新(xin)造皇(huang)堂(tang),朱元璋(zhang)嫌原碑(bei)(bei)記皆(jie)儒臣(chen)粉飾(shi)之文,恐不足為后世子孫戒,乃親撰碑(bei)(bei)文,重立新(xin)碑(bei)(bei),全文1105字,追述其家庭出身(shen)(shen),本人經歷,元末農民起(qi)義(yi)和(he)他參加起(qi)義(yi)軍的情況(kuang),以及東(dong)渡大江,統一(yi)全國的簡(jian)略(lve)過程。
無字碑
無(wu)(wu)字(zi)(zi)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)因碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)面無(wu)(wu)字(zi)(zi)而(er)俗稱,位(wei)于(yu)皇陵神道南(nan)端東側,西(xi)距(ju)皇陵碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)50米。無(wu)(wu)字(zi)(zi)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)的形制規格與(yu)皇陵碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)相同(tong),所(suo)不同(tong)的是(shi)皇陵碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)的碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)首與(yu)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)身以榫卯連結,而(er)無(wu)(wu)字(zi)(zi)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)卻(que)系(xi)一整塊(kuai)石(shi)料雕成。原(yuan)有碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)亭,久圮。建國(guo)前碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)已倒臥在(zai)(zai)地,碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)身折(zhe)斷為(wei)三截(jie),碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)座(zuo)仍(reng)在(zai)(zai)原(yuan)位(wei)。1983年(nian)3月(yue),縣文物(wu)(wu)管理(li)所(suo)將碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)座(zuo)向西(xi)移位(wei),同(tong)年(nian)4月(yue)配(pei)合省文物(wu)(wu)工作(zuo)隊,清(qing)(qing)理(li)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)座(zuo)基礎。第(di)(di)(di)一層(ceng)(ceng)為(wei)承托碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)座(zuo)的四塊(kuai)片石(shi),第(di)(di)(di)二層(ceng)(ceng)為(wei)石(shi)灰沙漿,第(di)(di)(di)三層(ceng)(ceng)為(wei)膠(jiao)漿。根據清(qing)(qing)理(li)情況分析,此碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)傾(qing)倒原(yuan)因,系(xi)第(di)(di)(di)二層(ceng)(ceng)基礎密度松(song)散,缺(que)少強度所(suo)致(zhi)。1985年(nian)春,碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)座(zuo)復原(yuan),同(tong)年(nian)6月(yue),粘接重新樹立。
明(ming)(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)石像(xiang)(xiang)生(sheng)是(shi)已知(zhi)明(ming)(ming)代(dai)(dai)(dai)最早、數量最多、刻工最精細的(de)(de)皇(huang)家陵(ling)園,石刻具有很高(gao)的(de)(de)石刻藝(yi)術價(jia)值。不(bu)僅數量居歷代(dai)(dai)(dai)帝王(wang)陵(ling)墓之(zhi)(zhi)冠,而且雕刻技藝(yi)上也有獨到之(zhi)(zhi)處。均(jun)用(yong)整塊石料(liao)雕琢,無論是(shi)人像(xiang)(xiang),還是(shi)動物,均(jun)造型生(sheng)動,刻琢精細,具有高(gao)超的(de)(de)技藝(yi)和強(qiang)烈(lie)的(de)(de)藝(yi)術感染力。它(ta)們是(shi)宋元(yuan)石刻藝(yi)術發(fa)展(zhan)(zhan)的(de)(de)最早產物,對(dui)明(ming)(ming)清(qing)的(de)(de)石刻造型藝(yi)術發(fa)展(zhan)(zhan)產生(sheng)了(le)(le)深(shen)遠影(ying)響。皇(huang)陵(ling)碑額(e)篆有“大明(ming)(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)之(zhi)(zhi)碑”6個大字,因碑文(wen)系朱(zhu)元(yuan)璋親(qin)自撰寫,又名“御制皇(huang)陵(ling)碑”。朱(zhu)元(yuan)璋為了(le)(le)讓子孫后代(dai)(dai)(dai)了(le)(le)解艱(jian)辛家世和開創江(jiang)山的(de)(de)艱(jian)難,秉筆直書(shu),歷述家世實(shi)情(qing)與(yu)戎馬生(sheng)涯,一改歷代(dai)(dai)(dai)帝陵(ling)碑刻粉飾夸功、諛墓不(bu)實(shi)的(de)(de)惡習。碑文(wen)長達1105字,是(shi)研究朱(zhu)元(yuan)璋家史與(yu)元(yuan)末明(ming)(ming)初歷史的(de)(de)珍貴(gui)史料(liao)。
自駕路線(xian)(xian):鳳(feng)(feng)陽(yang)(yang)縣城南7公里(li),省(sheng)道(dao)(dao)(dao)307線(xian)(xian):明(ming)光--亳州;省(sheng)道(dao)(dao)(dao)310線(xian)(xian):鳳(feng)(feng)陽(yang)(yang)--淮(huai)南;省(sheng)道(dao)(dao)(dao)101線(xian)(xian):鳳(feng)(feng)陽(yang)(yang)--蚌埠(bu);省(sheng)道(dao)(dao)(dao)209梅市段。縣道(dao)(dao)(dao)總大(da)路:總鋪(pu)--大(da)溪河;縣道(dao)(dao)(dao)鳳(feng)(feng)殷路:鳳(feng)(feng)陽(yang)(yang)--殷澗(jian);縣道(dao)(dao)(dao)鳳(feng)(feng)周路:鳳(feng)(feng)陽(yang)(yang)--周圩。
公(gong)交路線(xian):鳳陽汽(qi)車(che)站乘往大廟鎮班車(che)可到景(jing)區。