明(ming)皇(huang)(huang)陵初(chu)建(jian)之(zhi)時占地約2萬余畝(mu),于元至正二十(shi)六(liu)年(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元1366年(nian)(nian))始建(jian),洪武(wu)十(shi)二年(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元1379年(nian)(nian))竣(jun)工。洪武(wu)二年(nian)(nian),薦號英陵,后改稱皇(huang)(huang)陵。明(ming)皇(huang)(huang)陵主(zhu)要有皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)、磚城(cheng)、土城(cheng)三道,殿宇(yu)、房(fang)舍(she)千余間,陵丘、石刻(ke)群等。明(ming)末以來,人為(wei)破壞(huai)和風雨侵蝕,宮闕(que)殿宇(yu)廢為(wei)遺址,現僅存陵丘及石刻(ke)群。明(ming)皇(huang)(huang)陵雖非帝王之(zhi)陵,但“宮闕(que)殿宇(yu)、壯麗森嚴”。
明(ming)皇(huang)(huang)(huang)(huang)陵(ling)有三重城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣,里(li)為(wei)皇(huang)(huang)(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周長(chang)251米,四門紅土(tu)泥飾,中(zhong)(zhong)為(wei)磚(zhuan)(zhuan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周長(chang)約(yue)3公里(li),外為(wei)土(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周長(chang)14公里(li)。明(ming)皇(huang)(huang)(huang)(huang)陵(ling)總體(ti)布局采用“三套方城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)”,把(ba)陵(ling)園展成三重城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣的(de)(de)(de)格(ge)局,將石(shi)(shi)刻列置(zhi)于(yu)皇(huang)(huang)(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)前,陵(ling)墓在(zai)皇(huang)(huang)(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)后,享殿居皇(huang)(huang)(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)中(zhong)(zhong),華表置(zhi)于(yu)石(shi)(shi)獸與石(shi)(shi)人石(shi)(shi)馬(ma)之(zhi)間。明(ming)皇(huang)(huang)(huang)(huang)陵(ling)由于(yu)陵(ling)向坐南(nan)(nan)(nan)朝北(bei)(bei)(bei)偏東(dong)(dong)(dong),因此坐落在(zai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)北(bei)(bei)(bei)中(zhong)(zhong)軸線(xian)上的(de)(de)(de)建(jian)筑物均(jun)是(shi)(shi)面對北(bei)(bei)(bei)向,且以外城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)(bei)(bei)門為(wei)正門,明(ming)顯(xian)的(de)(de)(de)斜向東(dong)(dong)(dong)北(bei)(bei)(bei)的(de)(de)(de)中(zhong)(zhong)都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。由北(bei)(bei)(bei)而南(nan)(nan)(nan)進土(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正紅門,依次為(wei)紅橋、欞星(xing)門、磚(zhuan)(zhuan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)明(ming)樓、神道、御橋、皇(huang)(huang)(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)金(jin)門、皇(huang)(huang)(huang)(huang)堂、皇(huang)(huang)(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)后紅門、墳(fen)丘、磚(zhuan)(zhuan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)(nan)(nan)明(ming)樓、土(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)(nan)(nan)門。在(zai)這(zhe)條3.4公里(li)長(chang)的(de)(de)(de)中(zhong)(zhong)軸線(xian)兩旁,對稱(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)建(jian)有東(dong)(dong)(dong)角門和(he)西角門,左右兩排石(shi)(shi)像生,皇(huang)(huang)(huang)(huang)陵(ling)碑和(he)無(wu)字碑,東(dong)(dong)(dong)廡和(he)西廡,東(dong)(dong)(dong)明(ming)樓和(he)西明(ming)樓,東(dong)(dong)(dong)門和(he)西門。陵(ling)垣內外的(de)(de)(de)其他建(jian)筑,也大體(ti)是(shi)(shi)東(dong)(dong)(dong)西對稱(cheng)(cheng)或南(nan)(nan)(nan)北(bei)(bei)(bei)對稱(cheng)(cheng)。
皇城
皇陵(ling)修建時(shi)建皇城一座(zuo)(zuo),磚壘,高二丈,周七十五(wu)(wu)丈五(wu)(wu)尺(chi),紅土泥飭。正殿(dian)九間(jian),丹陛三級,黃(huang)琉璃瓦、青碧繪彩(cai)。金門(men)五(wu)(wu)間(jian)。左(zuo)右廡,各十一間(jian)。燎爐一座(zuo)(zuo)。角門(men)左(zuo)右各一座(zuo)(zuo)。后(hou)紅門(men)五(wu)(wu)座(zuo)(zuo)。碑亭左(zuo)右各一座(zuo)(zuo)。御橋(qiao)五(wu)(wu)座(zuo)(zuo),跨金水河(he)。華表并石人、石獸共三十六對(dui),在北(bei)城門(men)內(nei),兩傍直(zhi)(zhi)抵金門(men)外御橋(qiao)北(bei)止(zhi)。以(yi)上俱(ju)黃(huang)琉璃瓦,青碧彩(cai)繪,二十家人戶輪(lun)流直(zhi)(zhi)守(shou)。
磚城
皇陵建磚(zhuan)城(cheng)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),里外磚(zhuan)筑,高二(er)丈,周(zhou)六里一(yi)(yi)百一(yi)(yi)十(shi)八(ba)步,開四(si)門(men)(men)(men)(men),俱有樓(lou)(lou)。城(cheng)樓(lou)(lou)四(si)門(men)(men)(men)(men)四(si)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)重檐。具服殿六間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳廚(chu)二(er)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。官廳六間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。直(zhi)房(fang)(fang)(fang)(fang)為四(si)門(men)(men)(men)(men)直(zhi)房(fang)(fang)(fang)(fang)左右(you)各(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),欞星門(men)(men)(men)(men)外直(zhi)房(fang)(fang)(fang)(fang)左右(you)各(ge)十(shi)一(yi)(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。以(yi)上俱阜瓦(wa)。欞星門(men)(men)(men)(men)三座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),綠琉璃(li)飭。紅(hong)橋(qiao)共五(wu)(wu)(wu)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。以(yi)上十(shi)一(yi)(yi)社人(ren)戶輪流(liu)看(kan)(kan)守。神廚(chu)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在北城(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)(men)外東(dong)。二(er)十(shi)家廚(chu)役人(ren)戶直(zhi)守。神廚(chu)五(wu)(wu)(wu)門(men)(men)(men)(men)。神庫(ku)南北各(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。宰牲廚(chu)六間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。酒房(fang)(fang)(fang)(fang)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。門(men)(men)(men)(men)三間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。天(tian)池(chi)一(yi)(yi)口。鼓(gu)房(fang)(fang)(fang)(fang)一(yi)(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),遇祭支更。齋宮一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),去北城(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)(men)東(dong)北一(yi)(yi)里,新收入戶輪流(liu)直(zhi)日看(kan)(kan)守。正殿五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。穿堂三間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。寢(qin)殿五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳廚(chu)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。左右(you)廡各(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅(hong)門(men)(men)(men)(men)三間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。中(zhong)門(men)(men)(men)(men)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。廂房(fang)(fang)(fang)(fang)東(dong)西各(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。角門(men)(men)(men)(men)二(er)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。直(zhi)房(fang)(fang)(fang)(fang)東(dong)西各(ge)三間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅(hong)橋(qiao)三座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),已阜瓦(wa)蓋建。混堂一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),去北城(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)(men)東(dong)北二(er)里,新收入戶直(zhi)守。正房(fang)(fang)(fang)(fang)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。水池(chi)二(er)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。門(men)(men)(men)(men)一(yi)(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。
土城
皇(huang)陵建土城一座(zuo),周二(er)(er)十(shi)八里,四十(shi)四社人戶輪流直守,撥設皇(huang)陵衛(wei)巡(xun)綽。正紅門(men)三(san)座(zuo),在北,向東北。神路長三(san)里,傍植松柏,路達都城,亦設本(ben)衛(wei)巡(xun)守。東西(xi)(xi)(xi)角門(men)二(er)(er)座(zuo)。官(guan)(guan)廳二(er)(er)座(zuo),即祠祭署(shu)衙門(men),東、西(xi)(xi)(xi)、南門(men)各(ge)三(san)間。直房東、西(xi)(xi)(xi)、南門(men)外各(ge)三(san)間。下馬(ma)牌(pai)八座(zuo),在四門(men)外。鋪舍(she)十(shi)三(san)座(zuo)。水關、大(da)(da)水關一座(zuo),在土城東北角內,水從此流出(chu)入(ru)淮。小(xiao)水關四面共十(shi)九座(zuo)。皇(huang)堂橋一座(zuo),在大(da)(da)水關之北。外直房四十(shi)間,在東角門(men)外,各(ge)衙門(men)陪祭官(guan)(guan)駐馬(ma)處(chu)。
【皇陵城垣】
土城遺址
皇陵(ling)土城(cheng)為外城(cheng),開(kai)六個(ge)門(men),以所(suo)朝的方向(xiang)稱東、西、南、北四(si)門(men),北門(men)東西各有一(yi)角(jiao)門(men)。土城(cheng)遺址周(zhou)長15.44公里。據當地群(qun)(qun)眾反(fan)映,抗日戰爭期(qi)間土埂高(gao)出周(zhou)圍農田。建國后群(qun)(qun)眾多(duo)于此取碎磚,土埂被夷(yi)平。今遺址依(yi)稀可見。
磚城遺址
皇陵(ling)磚城為二(er)道(dao)城,《鳳陽(yang)新書(shu)》載:“里外磚筑,高二(er)丈,周六里一(yi)百一(yi)十八步,開四門(men)(men),俱有樓(lou)(lou)”。門(men)(men)名以所朝(chao)方(fang)向,稱為東、西、南、北明(ming)樓(lou)(lou)。明(ming)亡后,磚城及明(ming)樓(lou)(lou)毀(hui)圮(pi),現僅存(cun)遺址。
皇城遺址
皇(huang)城為(wei)皇(huang)陵最里(li)一道城,《鳳陽新書》載:“磚壘,高(gao)二丈,周七(qi)十五丈五尺(chi)”。北城墻正中為(wei)金門,五間,南城墻正中為(wei)后紅(hong)門,五座。今門及城墻久毀。
【皇城正(zheng)殿遺(yi)址】
皇城正殿
正(zheng)殿又稱(cheng)“祭殿”、“享(xiang)殿”、“皇堂”。明(ming)洪武十(shi)一(yi)(yi)年(nian)夏(xia)四月(yue)始(shi)建,十(shi)二年(nian)閏五(wu)月(yue)丁(ding)已落成。《鳳陽新書》載:“正(zheng)殿九間,丹陛三級,黃琉璃,青碧繪彩(cai)”。東西(xi)廡,各十(shi)一(yi)(yi)間。崇(chong)禎八年(nian)正(zheng)月(yue)丙(bing)寅,毀于兵火。今(jin)遺址尚在,仍(reng)高(gao)出(chu)附近地(di)面。西(xi)部(bu)遺存(cun)1.6米(mi)和1.3米(mi)見方柱礎(chu)石各1塊、螭首石構(gou)件1塊。原有蟠龍(long)欄桿柱石一(yi)(yi)個(ge),已運至龍(long)興寺陳列于《明(ming)皇陵文物陳列室》內。
【皇陵陵丘】
皇陵石像生
皇(huang)陵(ling)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)(xiang)生列(lie)于皇(huang)陵(ling)磚城北(bei)門(men)內神道(dao)兩側,為(wei)(wei)32對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui),自北(bei)向(xiang)南順序為(wei)(wei)麒麟2對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)獅8對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)、華(hua)表(biao)2對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)馬及控馬者6對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)虎(hu)4對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)羊4對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)、文臣(chen)、武將、內侍各2對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)。民(min)國22年(nian)(1933年(nian))曾對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)(xiang)生作過一(yi)次整(zheng)修。1對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)內侍和1對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)控馬人(ren)缺頭,均(jun)從頸(jing)端啟槽補上(shang),一(yi)組石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)馬及控馬人(ren)身部開裂,也(ye)鑿洞眼以鐵扒加(jia)固。“文化大革(ge)命(ming)”初期,石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)(xiang)生遭到破壞(huai)。17對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)獸(shou)被推(tui)倒(dao)4對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui),32條獸(shou)腿斷缺,4對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)底座殘損,6對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)人(ren),1人(ren)倒(dao)地,1人(ren)上(shang)部斷裂,華(hua)表(biao)均(jun)被推(tui)倒(dao),斷成2至(zhi)3截,石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)馬及控馬人(ren)被砸得殘缺不全,僅(jin)存1人(ren)3馬完好(hao)。1981年(nian)7月、1983年(nian)4月和1985年(nian)6月相繼修復,除1馬及1個控馬人(ren)外,余皆恢復原貌。石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)(xiang)生均(jun)系整(zheng)塊石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)料琢成,質地堅(jian)硬(ying),呈(cheng)黑色,有紅筋(jin),皇(huang)陵(ling)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)(xiang)生歷經(jing)600余年(nian),至(zhi)今石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)人(ren)衣(yi)著、扣帶、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)獸(shou)毛(mao)發等(deng)纖細(xi)(xi)部分,仍如新刻,極為(wei)(wei)清晰。石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)(xiang)生造型逼真,刻工精(jing)細(xi)(xi)。
皇陵碑
皇(huang)陵碑(bei)乃“大(da)明皇(huang)陵之(zhi)碑(bei)”的(de)簡稱(cheng),位(wei)于(yu)皇(huang)陵神道南端西側,洪(hong)武(wu)十一(yi)(yi)年七月建。該碑(bei)由(you)碑(bei)首、云盤、碑(bei)身、駝峰和鰲(ao)坐(zuo)五部分組成,通高(gao)6.87米。歷經(jing)600余年,仍屹立原(yuan)處,完好無損。原(yuan)有(you)碑(bei)亭,久毀,柱礎(chu)石(shi)尚(shang)在。洪(hong)武(wu)十一(yi)(yi)年,命江(jiang)陰侯吳良督工新(xin)造皇(huang)堂(tang),朱元璋嫌原(yuan)碑(bei)記(ji)皆儒臣(chen)粉飾之(zhi)文(wen),恐不足為后世子孫戒,乃親撰(zhuan)碑(bei)文(wen),重立新(xin)碑(bei),全文(wen)1105字,追述其家庭出身,本人經(jing)歷,元末農(nong)民起(qi)義和他參(can)加起(qi)義軍的(de)情況,以(yi)及東渡(du)大(da)江(jiang),統(tong)一(yi)(yi)全國的(de)簡略(lve)過程。
無字碑
無(wu)字(zi)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)因碑(bei)(bei)(bei)面無(wu)字(zi)而俗稱(cheng),位于皇陵神道南端東(dong)側,西(xi)(xi)距(ju)皇陵碑(bei)(bei)(bei)50米(mi)。無(wu)字(zi)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)的形制規格與(yu)皇陵碑(bei)(bei)(bei)相(xiang)同(tong)(tong),所不同(tong)(tong)的是皇陵碑(bei)(bei)(bei)的碑(bei)(bei)(bei)首與(yu)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)身以榫卯連結,而無(wu)字(zi)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)卻系一(yi)整塊(kuai)石料(liao)雕成。原(yuan)有(you)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)亭,久圮。建國前碑(bei)(bei)(bei)已倒臥在地(di),碑(bei)(bei)(bei)身折斷為(wei)三截(jie),碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座(zuo)(zuo)仍在原(yuan)位。1983年(nian)3月(yue),縣文(wen)(wen)物(wu)管理所將碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座(zuo)(zuo)向西(xi)(xi)移位,同(tong)(tong)年(nian)4月(yue)配合省文(wen)(wen)物(wu)工(gong)作隊(dui),清(qing)理碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座(zuo)(zuo)基礎。第一(yi)層為(wei)承(cheng)托碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座(zuo)(zuo)的四塊(kuai)片石,第二層為(wei)石灰(hui)沙(sha)漿,第三層為(wei)膠漿。根據清(qing)理情況分(fen)析,此(ci)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)傾倒原(yuan)因,系第二層基礎密(mi)度松散,缺少強度所致(zhi)。1985年(nian)春,碑(bei)(bei)(bei)座(zuo)(zuo)復原(yuan),同(tong)(tong)年(nian)6月(yue),粘接(jie)重新(xin)樹立(li)。
明(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)石(shi)(shi)(shi)像生是(shi)已知明(ming)代最(zui)早(zao)、數量最(zui)多、刻(ke)(ke)(ke)工最(zui)精(jing)細的(de)(de)皇(huang)家(jia)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)園,石(shi)(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)具有(you)很高的(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)藝(yi)(yi)術(shu)價值。不僅數量居(ju)歷代帝王陵(ling)(ling)(ling)墓之冠(guan),而且雕刻(ke)(ke)(ke)技藝(yi)(yi)上(shang)也有(you)獨到之處。均用整塊石(shi)(shi)(shi)料(liao)雕琢(zhuo),無(wu)論是(shi)人像,還(huan)是(shi)動(dong)(dong)物,均造型生動(dong)(dong),刻(ke)(ke)(ke)琢(zhuo)精(jing)細,具有(you)高超的(de)(de)技藝(yi)(yi)和強(qiang)烈的(de)(de)藝(yi)(yi)術(shu)感染力。它們是(shi)宋元(yuan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)藝(yi)(yi)術(shu)發(fa)(fa)展(zhan)的(de)(de)最(zui)早(zao)產(chan)物,對明(ming)清的(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)造型藝(yi)(yi)術(shu)發(fa)(fa)展(zhan)產(chan)生了深遠(yuan)影響。皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)碑(bei)(bei)額篆有(you)“大(da)明(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)之碑(bei)(bei)”6個大(da)字(zi),因碑(bei)(bei)文(wen)系(xi)朱元(yuan)璋(zhang)親自(zi)撰寫(xie),又名(ming)“御制皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)碑(bei)(bei)”。朱元(yuan)璋(zhang)為(wei)了讓子孫(sun)后代了解艱辛家(jia)世和開創江山的(de)(de)艱難,秉筆直書(shu),歷述家(jia)世實情與戎馬生涯(ya),一改(gai)歷代帝陵(ling)(ling)(ling)碑(bei)(bei)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)粉飾(shi)夸功、諛墓不實的(de)(de)惡習。碑(bei)(bei)文(wen)長達1105字(zi),是(shi)研究朱元(yuan)璋(zhang)家(jia)史(shi)與元(yuan)末明(ming)初(chu)歷史(shi)的(de)(de)珍貴史(shi)料(liao)。
自(zi)駕路(lu)線:鳳(feng)(feng)(feng)陽(yang)縣(xian)城南7公(gong)里,省(sheng)道(dao)(dao)307線:明光(guang)--亳州;省(sheng)道(dao)(dao)310線:鳳(feng)(feng)(feng)陽(yang)--淮南;省(sheng)道(dao)(dao)101線:鳳(feng)(feng)(feng)陽(yang)--蚌埠(bu);省(sheng)道(dao)(dao)209梅市段。縣(xian)道(dao)(dao)總(zong)大(da)路(lu):總(zong)鋪--大(da)溪河;縣(xian)道(dao)(dao)鳳(feng)(feng)(feng)殷(yin)路(lu):鳳(feng)(feng)(feng)陽(yang)--殷(yin)澗;縣(xian)道(dao)(dao)鳳(feng)(feng)(feng)周路(lu):鳳(feng)(feng)(feng)陽(yang)--周圩。
公交路線:鳳(feng)陽汽(qi)車(che)站乘往大廟鎮(zhen)班(ban)車(che)可到景(jing)區。