明皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)初(chu)建(jian)之時占(zhan)地約2萬余畝(mu),于元(yuan)至正二十六年(nian)(公元(yuan)1366年(nian))始(shi)建(jian),洪(hong)武十二年(nian)(公元(yuan)1379年(nian))竣工。洪(hong)武二年(nian),薦(jian)號英陵(ling)(ling)(ling),后改稱皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)。明皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)主要有皇(huang)城(cheng)、磚城(cheng)、土城(cheng)三道,殿宇、房(fang)舍千余間,陵(ling)(ling)(ling)丘(qiu)、石(shi)(shi)刻群等。明末以來,人為破壞和風雨侵蝕(shi),宮闕(que)殿宇廢為遺址,現僅存陵(ling)(ling)(ling)丘(qiu)及(ji)石(shi)(shi)刻群。明皇(huang)陵(ling)(ling)(ling)雖非(fei)帝(di)王之陵(ling)(ling)(ling),但“宮闕(que)殿宇、壯麗森嚴”。
明(ming)(ming)(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)有三(san)(san)重(zhong)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣,里(li)為(wei)(wei)皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周(zhou)長251米,四門(men)(men)(men)(men)紅(hong)土泥飾,中為(wei)(wei)磚(zhuan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周(zhou)長約3公(gong)里(li),外(wai)為(wei)(wei)土城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周(zhou)長14公(gong)里(li)。明(ming)(ming)(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)總體布局采用“三(san)(san)套方城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)”,把(ba)陵(ling)園展(zhan)成三(san)(san)重(zhong)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣的格局,將石(shi)(shi)刻列(lie)置于(yu)(yu)皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之前,陵(ling)墓(mu)在(zai)皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之后,享殿居皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之中,華(hua)表置于(yu)(yu)石(shi)(shi)獸與石(shi)(shi)人石(shi)(shi)馬之間。明(ming)(ming)(ming)皇(huang)陵(ling)由于(yu)(yu)陵(ling)向坐南(nan)朝北(bei)(bei)偏東,因此坐落在(zai)南(nan)北(bei)(bei)中軸(zhou)線上的建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)物(wu)均是面對(dui)北(bei)(bei)向,且以(yi)外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)(bei)門(men)(men)(men)(men)為(wei)(wei)正門(men)(men)(men)(men),明(ming)(ming)(ming)顯的斜向東北(bei)(bei)的中都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。由北(bei)(bei)而南(nan)進(jin)土城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正紅(hong)門(men)(men)(men)(men),依次(ci)為(wei)(wei)紅(hong)橋(qiao)、欞星門(men)(men)(men)(men)、磚(zhuan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)明(ming)(ming)(ming)樓(lou)、神道、御橋(qiao)、皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)金(jin)門(men)(men)(men)(men)、皇(huang)堂、皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)后紅(hong)門(men)(men)(men)(men)、墳丘(qiu)、磚(zhuan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)明(ming)(ming)(ming)樓(lou)、土城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)。在(zai)這條3.4公(gong)里(li)長的中軸(zhou)線兩旁,對(dui)稱的建(jian)(jian)有東角(jiao)門(men)(men)(men)(men)和(he)西角(jiao)門(men)(men)(men)(men),左右兩排石(shi)(shi)像生,皇(huang)陵(ling)碑和(he)無字碑,東廡和(he)西廡,東明(ming)(ming)(ming)樓(lou)和(he)西明(ming)(ming)(ming)樓(lou),東門(men)(men)(men)(men)和(he)西門(men)(men)(men)(men)。陵(ling)垣內外(wai)的其他建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu),也大體是東西對(dui)稱或南(nan)北(bei)(bei)對(dui)稱。
皇城
皇陵修建(jian)時建(jian)皇城一(yi)座(zuo),磚壘,高二丈,周七十(shi)五丈五尺,紅(hong)土泥飭。正殿九間(jian),丹陛(bi)三級,黃琉(liu)璃瓦、青碧繪(hui)彩(cai)(cai)。金門(men)(men)五間(jian)。左右廡,各十(shi)一(yi)間(jian)。燎爐一(yi)座(zuo)。角(jiao)門(men)(men)左右各一(yi)座(zuo)。后紅(hong)門(men)(men)五座(zuo)。碑亭(ting)左右各一(yi)座(zuo)。御橋(qiao)五座(zuo),跨金水河。華表并石人、石獸共三十(shi)六對,在北(bei)城門(men)(men)內,兩傍直抵金門(men)(men)外御橋(qiao)北(bei)止。以(yi)上俱黃琉(liu)璃瓦,青碧彩(cai)(cai)繪(hui),二十(shi)家人戶(hu)輪流直守。
磚城
皇陵建磚(zhuan)(zhuan)城(cheng)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),里(li)(li)外(wai)(wai)磚(zhuan)(zhuan)筑,高二丈,周六(liu)(liu)里(li)(li)一(yi)百(bai)一(yi)十八步(bu),開四(si)門(men)(men),俱(ju)有(you)樓。城(cheng)樓四(si)門(men)(men)四(si)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)重(zhong)檐。具服殿六(liu)(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳廚(chu)二間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。官廳六(liu)(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。直房(fang)(fang)(fang)為四(si)門(men)(men)直房(fang)(fang)(fang)左右(you)(you)各(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),欞星(xing)門(men)(men)外(wai)(wai)直房(fang)(fang)(fang)左右(you)(you)各(ge)十一(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。以(yi)(yi)上俱(ju)阜瓦(wa)。欞星(xing)門(men)(men)三(san)(san)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),綠琉璃飭。紅(hong)(hong)橋共五(wu)(wu)(wu)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。以(yi)(yi)上十一(yi)社人(ren)戶輪流(liu)(liu)看守(shou)(shou)。神廚(chu)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在(zai)北城(cheng)門(men)(men)外(wai)(wai)東(dong)(dong)(dong)。二十家廚(chu)役人(ren)戶直守(shou)(shou)。神廚(chu)五(wu)(wu)(wu)門(men)(men)。神庫南北各(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。宰牲廚(chu)六(liu)(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。酒房(fang)(fang)(fang)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。門(men)(men)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。天池一(yi)口。鼓房(fang)(fang)(fang)一(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),遇祭支更。齋宮(gong)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),去北城(cheng)門(men)(men)東(dong)(dong)(dong)北一(yi)里(li)(li),新(xin)收(shou)入戶輪流(liu)(liu)直日看守(shou)(shou)。正殿五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。穿堂(tang)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。寢殿五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳廚(chu)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。左右(you)(you)廡各(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅(hong)(hong)門(men)(men)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。中門(men)(men)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。廂房(fang)(fang)(fang)東(dong)(dong)(dong)西(xi)各(ge)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。角門(men)(men)二座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。直房(fang)(fang)(fang)東(dong)(dong)(dong)西(xi)各(ge)三(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅(hong)(hong)橋三(san)(san)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),已阜瓦(wa)蓋建。混堂(tang)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),去北城(cheng)門(men)(men)東(dong)(dong)(dong)北二里(li)(li),新(xin)收(shou)入戶直守(shou)(shou)。正房(fang)(fang)(fang)五(wu)(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。水池二座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。門(men)(men)一(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。
土城
皇(huang)陵建土城一座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),周二十(shi)(shi)八(ba)(ba)里,四(si)(si)(si)十(shi)(shi)四(si)(si)(si)社人(ren)戶輪流(liu)直守,撥設(she)皇(huang)陵衛(wei)巡(xun)綽(chuo)。正紅門(men)(men)三(san)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在(zai)(zai)北(bei)(bei)(bei),向東(dong)北(bei)(bei)(bei)。神(shen)路長三(san)里,傍植松柏,路達(da)都城,亦(yi)設(she)本衛(wei)巡(xun)守。東(dong)西(xi)角(jiao)(jiao)門(men)(men)二座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。官廳二座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),即(ji)祠祭(ji)署衙門(men)(men),東(dong)、西(xi)、南門(men)(men)各三(san)間。直房東(dong)、西(xi)、南門(men)(men)外各三(san)間。下馬(ma)牌八(ba)(ba)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在(zai)(zai)四(si)(si)(si)門(men)(men)外。鋪(pu)舍十(shi)(shi)三(san)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。水(shui)關、大水(shui)關一座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在(zai)(zai)土城東(dong)北(bei)(bei)(bei)角(jiao)(jiao)內,水(shui)從此流(liu)出入淮。小(xiao)水(shui)關四(si)(si)(si)面(mian)共十(shi)(shi)九座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。皇(huang)堂橋一座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在(zai)(zai)大水(shui)關之北(bei)(bei)(bei)。外直房四(si)(si)(si)十(shi)(shi)間,在(zai)(zai)東(dong)角(jiao)(jiao)門(men)(men)外,各衙門(men)(men)陪祭(ji)官駐馬(ma)處。
【皇陵城垣】
土城遺址
皇陵土(tu)(tu)城為外城,開六個門(men),以(yi)所朝的(de)方向(xiang)稱東、西、南、北(bei)四門(men),北(bei)門(men)東西各有(you)一角門(men)。土(tu)(tu)城遺址周長15.44公里。據當地(di)群眾(zhong)反映,抗日戰(zhan)爭期間土(tu)(tu)埂高出周圍農田(tian)。建國后群眾(zhong)多于此取碎磚,土(tu)(tu)埂被夷(yi)平。今遺址依稀可(ke)見(jian)。
磚城遺址
皇(huang)陵磚城(cheng)為(wei)二(er)道城(cheng),《鳳陽新書》載(zai):“里外磚筑,高二(er)丈,周六里一百一十八步,開四門,俱有樓”。門名以所(suo)朝方(fang)向(xiang),稱(cheng)為(wei)東、西、南、北明(ming)樓。明(ming)亡后,磚城(cheng)及明(ming)樓毀圮,現僅存遺址。
皇城遺址
皇城(cheng)為皇陵(ling)最里一道城(cheng),《鳳陽新書》載:“磚壘,高(gao)二(er)丈,周七十五(wu)丈五(wu)尺”。北城(cheng)墻正中為金門,五(wu)間,南(nan)城(cheng)墻正中為后紅門,五(wu)座。今門及城(cheng)墻久毀。
【皇(huang)城(cheng)正殿遺址】
皇城正殿
正殿(dian)又稱“祭殿(dian)”、“享殿(dian)”、“皇堂”。明洪武十一年(nian)夏四月(yue)始建,十二年(nian)閏五月(yue)丁(ding)已落成。《鳳陽新(xin)書》載:“正殿(dian)九間,丹陛三級,黃琉璃,青碧繪彩”。東西廡,各(ge)十一間。崇禎八年(nian)正月(yue)丙寅,毀于兵火。今遺址尚在,仍高出附近地面(mian)。西部遺存(cun)1.6米(mi)(mi)和(he)1.3米(mi)(mi)見方柱礎石各(ge)1塊、螭(chi)首石構件1塊。原(yuan)有(you)蟠龍欄桿柱石一個,已運(yun)至龍興寺陳列(lie)于《明皇陵(ling)文(wen)物(wu)陳列(lie)室(shi)》內。
【皇陵陵丘】
皇陵石像生
皇陵石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)生列于皇陵磚城北門內神道兩(liang)側,為(wei)32對,自北向(xiang)南順序(xu)為(wei)麒(qi)麟(lin)2對、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)獅8對、華表(biao)2對、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)馬(ma)及(ji)控(kong)(kong)馬(ma)者6對、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)虎4對、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)羊4對、文(wen)臣、武將、內侍(shi)各2對。民國22年(nian)(nian)(1933年(nian)(nian))曾對石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)生作過一(yi)次整修。1對內侍(shi)和1對控(kong)(kong)馬(ma)人(ren)(ren)缺頭,均從頸(jing)端啟槽補(bu)上,一(yi)組(zu)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)馬(ma)及(ji)控(kong)(kong)馬(ma)人(ren)(ren)身部(bu)開裂,也鑿洞(dong)眼以鐵扒加固。“文(wen)化大革命”初期(qi),石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)生遭到破壞。17對石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)獸被推倒4對,32條獸腿斷缺,4對底(di)座殘損,6對石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)人(ren)(ren),1人(ren)(ren)倒地,1人(ren)(ren)上部(bu)斷裂,華表(biao)均被推倒,斷成2至(zhi)(zhi)3截,石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)馬(ma)及(ji)控(kong)(kong)馬(ma)人(ren)(ren)被砸得殘缺不全(quan),僅存1人(ren)(ren)3馬(ma)完好。1981年(nian)(nian)7月、1983年(nian)(nian)4月和1985年(nian)(nian)6月相繼修復(fu),除1馬(ma)及(ji)1個(ge)控(kong)(kong)馬(ma)人(ren)(ren)外(wai),余皆恢復(fu)原貌。石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)生均系整塊石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)料琢成,質地堅(jian)硬(ying),呈黑色,有(you)紅筋,皇陵石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)生歷(li)經600余年(nian)(nian),至(zhi)(zhi)今石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)人(ren)(ren)衣(yi)著(zhu)、扣帶、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)獸毛發(fa)等纖(xian)細(xi)部(bu)分,仍(reng)如新刻(ke),極(ji)為(wei)清晰。石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)像(xiang)生造型(xing)逼真,刻(ke)工精(jing)細(xi)。
皇陵碑
皇陵(ling)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)乃(nai)“大明(ming)皇陵(ling)之碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)”的(de)簡(jian)稱(cheng),位于皇陵(ling)神道南(nan)端西側,洪武十(shi)(shi)一年(nian)七月建(jian)。該碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)由碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)首、云盤、碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)身、駝峰和(he)鰲坐(zuo)五部分組成,通(tong)高6.87米(mi)。歷(li)經(jing)600余(yu)年(nian),仍屹立(li)(li)原處,完好無(wu)損。原有碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)亭,久(jiu)毀,柱礎石尚在(zai)。洪武十(shi)(shi)一年(nian),命江陰侯吳(wu)良督(du)工(gong)新造皇堂,朱元(yuan)璋嫌原碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)記(ji)皆(jie)儒臣粉飾之文,恐不足(zu)為后世子孫戒,乃(nai)親撰碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei)文,重立(li)(li)新碑(bei)(bei)(bei)(bei),全文1105字,追述(shu)其家庭出身,本人(ren)經(jing)歷(li),元(yuan)末農民起(qi)義和(he)他參(can)加起(qi)義軍的(de)情況,以及(ji)東渡大江,統一全國的(de)簡(jian)略過程。
無字碑
無字碑(bei)因碑(bei)面(mian)無字而(er)俗稱,位于(yu)皇陵神道南端東側(ce),西距皇陵碑(bei)50米(mi)。無字碑(bei)的(de)(de)形制規(gui)格與皇陵碑(bei)相同(tong)(tong),所(suo)不同(tong)(tong)的(de)(de)是(shi)皇陵碑(bei)的(de)(de)碑(bei)首與碑(bei)身以榫(sun)卯(mao)連結,而(er)無字碑(bei)卻系一(yi)整(zheng)塊(kuai)石(shi)料雕成。原(yuan)有碑(bei)亭,久圮。建國前碑(bei)已倒(dao)臥(wo)在地,碑(bei)身折斷為(wei)三截,碑(bei)座(zuo)仍在原(yuan)位。1983年3月(yue),縣(xian)文物管理(li)(li)所(suo)將碑(bei)座(zuo)向西移位,同(tong)(tong)年4月(yue)配合省文物工作(zuo)隊,清理(li)(li)碑(bei)座(zuo)基礎。第(di)一(yi)層(ceng)為(wei)承托(tuo)碑(bei)座(zuo)的(de)(de)四塊(kuai)片石(shi),第(di)二(er)層(ceng)為(wei)石(shi)灰沙漿,第(di)三層(ceng)為(wei)膠(jiao)漿。根據清理(li)(li)情況分析,此碑(bei)傾倒(dao)原(yuan)因,系第(di)二(er)層(ceng)基礎密度(du)松散,缺少強度(du)所(suo)致。1985年春(chun),碑(bei)座(zuo)復原(yuan),同(tong)(tong)年6月(yue),粘(zhan)接(jie)重新樹立。
明(ming)皇陵石(shi)(shi)像生(sheng)是已知明(ming)代最(zui)早、數(shu)(shu)量(liang)最(zui)多、刻(ke)工最(zui)精細的皇家(jia)陵園,石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)具有(you)很(hen)高的石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)藝術價值。不(bu)僅數(shu)(shu)量(liang)居歷(li)代帝王陵墓之冠(guan),而(er)且雕(diao)刻(ke)技藝上也有(you)獨到之處。均用(yong)整塊石(shi)(shi)料雕(diao)琢(zhuo)(zhuo),無論是人像,還是動物(wu),均造型(xing)生(sheng)動,刻(ke)琢(zhuo)(zhuo)精細,具有(you)高超(chao)的技藝和(he)強烈的藝術感染力。它們是宋元(yuan)石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)藝術發展的最(zui)早產(chan)物(wu),對明(ming)清的石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)造型(xing)藝術發展產(chan)生(sheng)了深遠影(ying)響。皇陵碑額篆有(you)“大明(ming)皇陵之碑”6個大字,因碑文系(xi)朱元(yuan)璋親自撰寫,又名(ming)“御制皇陵碑”。朱元(yuan)璋為了讓(rang)子(zi)孫后代了解艱(jian)(jian)辛家(jia)世和(he)開創江山的艱(jian)(jian)難,秉筆直書(shu),歷(li)述家(jia)世實(shi)情(qing)與戎馬生(sheng)涯,一改歷(li)代帝陵碑刻(ke)粉飾夸功、諛(yu)墓不(bu)實(shi)的惡(e)習。碑文長達(da)1105字,是研究(jiu)朱元(yuan)璋家(jia)史(shi)與元(yuan)末(mo)明(ming)初歷(li)史(shi)的珍貴(gui)史(shi)料。
自駕路(lu)線(xian):鳳(feng)陽(yang)縣(xian)城南(nan)7公里,省道(dao)307線(xian):明(ming)光--亳州;省道(dao)310線(xian):鳳(feng)陽(yang)--淮南(nan);省道(dao)101線(xian):鳳(feng)陽(yang)--蚌埠;省道(dao)209梅(mei)市段(duan)。縣(xian)道(dao)總大路(lu):總鋪--大溪河;縣(xian)道(dao)鳳(feng)殷(yin)路(lu):鳳(feng)陽(yang)--殷(yin)澗;縣(xian)道(dao)鳳(feng)周路(lu):鳳(feng)陽(yang)--周圩(wei)。
公交路(lu)線:鳳(feng)陽汽(qi)車站乘往大廟(miao)鎮(zhen)班(ban)車可到景區。