天師(shi)(shi)府全(quan)稱“嗣(si)漢天師(shi)(shi)府”,亦稱“大(da)(da)真人府”。府第坐落在江西(xi)貴溪上清(qing)古(gu)鎮,南(nan)朝琵琶峰,面臨上清(qing)河(古(gu)稱沂(yi)溪),北(bei)倚西(xi)華(hua)(hua)山(shan),東距大(da)(da)上清(qing)官二華(hua)(hua)里,西(xi)離龍虎山(shan)主峰十五里許。整個府第由府門、大(da)(da)堂、后(hou)堂、私第、殿宇、書(shu)屋、花園等(deng)部(bu)分構成(cheng)。規(gui)模宏大(da)(da),雄偉壯觀,建筑華(hua)(hua)麗,工(gong)藝(yi)精致,是(shi)一處王府式樣的建筑,也是(shi)中國現存封建社會“大(da)(da)府第”之一。院(yuan)內豫樟成(cheng)林(lin),古(gu)木(mu)參天,濃(nong)蔭散綠,環境清(qing)幽,昔有(you)“仙都”,“南(nan)國第一家”之稱。
天井(jing)周以樓屋,堂為(wei)樓廳(ting)五間(jian)(jian),雕梁畫棟,富麗(li)堂皇(huang),浮雕如生,呼之(zhi)欲出。圖(tu)案大致為(wei)三(san),一是神(shen)話故事和戲劇人(ren)物,二為(wei)云龍玉(yu)免(mian),瑞獸祥(xiang)禽,三(san)為(wei)松竹(zhu)花卉,清淡高雅,不落俗套(tao)。穿后(hou)廳(ting)而進,過八卦(gua)門,通靈(ling)芝(zhi)園(yuan)。門旁(pang)書(shu)有(you)“八卦(gua)涵宇宙,雙龍衛乾坤”對(dui)聯,園(yuan)東(dong)西(xi)各建(jian)廊房(fang)四(si)間(jian)(jian),整齊相對(dui),原為(wei)書(shu)房(fang),現為(wei)道教(jiao)研究室(shi)。園(yuan)中(zhong)有(you)古(gu)老(lao)四(si)季桂一株,樹(shu)(shu)姿婆娑,四(si)季飄(piao)香。靈(ling)芝(zhi)園(yuan)北(bei)為(wei)敕書(shu)閣,是保存(cun)皇(huang)帝圣旨詔文、書(shu)信之(zhi)所(suo),毀于清咸豐年間(jian)(jian),正待恢復。書(shu)屋后(hou)為(wei)百(bai)花園(yuan),臨池(chi)(chi)建(jian)納(na)涼(liang)居。池(chi)(chi)內養魚,園(yuan)中(zhong)栽樹(shu)(shu),花木蔥(cong)郁,秀色可餐(can)。躺在這(zhe)里納(na)涼(liang),低頭(tou)看水,枕流看山,清風徐來,沁(qin)人(ren)心脾。萬神(shen)集聚的(de)(de)“萬法(fa)宗壇(tan)(tan)”坐落在私(si)第(di)西(xi)邊。正殿為(wei)三(san)清殿,供(gong)奉著玉(yu)清元始天尊、上(shang)清靈(ling)寶天尊、太(tai)清道德天尊。東(dong)西(xi)殿為(wei)靈(ling)官(guan)殿和財神(shen)殿。靈(ling)官(guan)為(wei)道教(jiao)巡察、護法(fa)、監壇(tan)(tan)之(zhi)神(shen),財神(shen)殿為(wei)騎(qi)黑虎楊銀鞭“上(shang)天奏善(shan)事,下地降吉祥(xiang)”的(de)(de)趙公元帥,他(ta)是守(shou)護張道陵玄壇(tan)(tan)的(de)(de)守(shou)護神(shen),又號(hao)趙玄壇(tan)(tan)。
萬法(fa)宗(zong)壇院落(luo)內有雌雄羅漢松二(er)株,偏大(da)者(zhe)為(wei)(wei)雄,偏小者(zhe)為(wei)(wei)雌。傳(chuan)為(wei)(wei)南宋趙(zhao)構母親所(suo)栽(zai)。時隔千年(nian),卻依然樹繁葉茂,生(sheng)機勃勃。正(zheng)一(yi)觀(guan)(guan)和上清(qing)宮遺址(zhi)正(zheng)一(yi)觀(guan)(guan)舊址(zhi)在龍(long)虎山麓,坐北朝南,而水(shui)(shui)(shui)背(bei)山地方開闊平坦。乃第四代天(tian)(tian)(tian)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)張盛從漢中攜祖(zu)天(tian)(tian)(tian)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)印劍符??遷回(hui)龍(long)虎山建祠,祀祖(zu)天(tian)(tian)(tian)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)地方。《水(shui)(shui)(shui)滸傳(chuan)》第一(yi)回(hui)“張天(tian)(tian)(tian)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)祈禳瘟疫,洪太尉誤走妖魔”就以“千峰競秀,萬壑爭(zheng)流。瀑布斜飛,藤蘿倒掛。”這(zhe)樣生(sheng)動的(de)(de)語句來描(miao)述這(zhe)里的(de)(de)景色。天(tian)(tian)(tian)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)府遷上清(qing)后,正(zheng)一(yi)觀(guan)(guan)漸漸被冷(leng)落(luo),只(zhi)留下一(yi)片廢墟供人憑(ping)吊。從正(zheng)一(yi)觀(guan)(guan)繼續往上走,便到了祖(zu)天(tian)(tian)(tian)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)結爐煉丹(dan)(dan)的(de)(de)水(shui)(shui)(shui)簾洞(dong)、煉丹(dan)(dan)巖(yan)了。煉丹(dan)(dan)巖(yan)前(qian)臨溪澗(jian)、峭石(shi)壁立,丹(dan)(dan)灶遺址(zhi)尚存(cun),草廬足(zu)跡(ji)仍(reng)在。水(shui)(shui)(shui)簾洞(dong)瀑布飛瀉,狀若珠簾,當(dang)(dang)年(nian)張道陵就是用此水(shui)(shui)(shui)煉成九天(tian)(tian)(tian)神丹(dan)(dan)的(de)(de)。龍(long)虎山對面有成片的(de)(de)天(tian)(tian)(tian)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)板栗林,據(ju)說為(wei)(wei)當(dang)(dang)年(nian)張天(tian)(tian)(tian)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)親手所(suo)植。天(tian)(tian)(tian)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)栗個大(da)香甜,據(ju)說可以益壽延年(nian)。
上(shang)(shang)(shang)清(qing)(qing)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)距(ju)天(tian)師(shi)府(fu)二里(li),在上(shang)(shang)(shang)清(qing)(qing)鎮東首,左(zuo)擁象(xiang)山,門(men)(men)對(dui)(dui)瀘溪(xi),面云(yun)林(lin),枕臺石(shi)。始建于東漢,為(wei)祖天(tian)師(shi)張(zhang)道陵修道之所(suo)(suo),時(shi)名(ming)“天(tian)師(shi)草(cao)堂(tang)(tang)”。漢末(mo),第四代天(tian)師(shi)張(zhang)盛(sheng)(sheng)自漢中(zhong)(zhong)遷還(huan)龍虎山,改“天(tian)師(shi)草(cao)堂(tang)(tang)”為(wei)“傳(chuan)錄(lu)壇(tan)”;唐會昌年間,真(zhen)(zhen)宗賜傳(chuan)錄(lu)壇(tan)額曰:“真(zhen)(zhen)仙觀(guan)”。北宋大(da)中(zhong)(zhong)祥(xiang)符年間,真(zhen)(zhen)宗敕(chi)改上(shang)(shang)(shang)清(qing)(qing)觀(guan)。正和(he)(he)三(san)年(公(gong)元1118年),名(ming)上(shang)(shang)(shang)清(qing)(qing)正一宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong),簡稱(cheng)上(shang)(shang)(shang)清(qing)(qing)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)、大(da)上(shang)(shang)(shang)清(qing)(qing)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong),是(shi)(shi)歷(li)代天(tian)師(shi)供(gong)祀神(shen)(shen)仙之所(suo)(suo),故(gu)有“仙靈(ling)都(dou)會”、“百神(shen)(shen)受職(zhi)之所(suo)(suo)”之稱(cheng)。道教興盛(sheng)(sheng)時(shi)期曾建有九十(shi)一座道宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)、八十(shi)一座道觀(guan)、五十(shi)座道院(yuan)、二十(shi)四殿(dian)(dian)、三(san)十(shi)六(liu)院(yuan),它原是(shi)(shi)我國規模最大(da)、歷(li)史最為(wei)悠久的(de)古(gu)老(lao)道宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)之一。它和(he)(he)皇(huang)帝宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)殿(dian)(dian)相(xiang)比,僅矮(ai)一尺。我國古(gu)典(dian)名(ming)著(zhu)(zhu)《水滸傳(chuan)》對(dui)(dui)上(shang)(shang)(shang)清(qing)(qing)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)的(de)仙都(dou)風貌作過(guo)極為(wei)精(jing)彩的(de)描(miao)寫,從而使(shi)這座古(gu)老(lao)道宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)顯得更(geng)加神(shen)(shen)奇。上(shang)(shang)(shang)清(qing)(qing)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)整個(ge)建筑以三(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)和(he)(he)玉皇(huang)殿(dian)(dian)為(wei)中(zhong)(zhong)心,分八門(men)(men)四方。現殿(dian)(dian)宇(yu)絕(jue)大(da)部(bu)分被毀,但這座古(gu)老(lao)道宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)的(de)聲(sheng)名(ming)仍(reng)然(ran)(ran)顯赫,家喻戶曉(xiao),現存的(de)東隱院(yuan),善(shan)惡井、夢(meng)床、神(shen)(shen)樹和(he)(he)傳(chuan)說中(zhong)(zhong)的(de)鎮妖井等文物(wu)古(gu)跡(ji),仍(reng)然(ran)(ran)強烈吸引著(zhu)(zhu)中(zhong)(zhong)外游人(ren)。
東隱(yin)院(yuan)在上清宮院(yuan)內東側,是(shi)龍虎山(shan)上清宮一(yi)座著名(ming)道院(yuan),也是(shi)上清宮至2013年殘存(cun)的(de)唯一(yi)道院(yuan)。
創(chuang)建于南(nan)(nan)宋年間,現(xian)有(you)建筑(zhu)為(wei)明末清初建筑(zhu),有(you)門屋一(yi)(yi)間,正廳三間,左右丹房各(ge)四(si)間,后廳三間,左右耳房各(ge)一(yi)(yi)間。建筑(zhu)風(feng)格古樸,院墻外有(you)“善惡分界井”和“神(shen)(shen)樹(shu)”等古跡。雖然(ran)(ran)今昔(xi)對比,面目(mu)全非,但(dan)群山(shan)環抱,云霧繚繞(rao),仙跡縹緲,仙氣(qi)猶(you)存(cun),站(zhan)在(zai)這(zhe)里(li),仍可(ke)領略一(yi)(yi)番仙都風(feng)貌。在(zai)這(zhe)里(li)需要特書(shu)一(yi)(yi)筆的(de)(de),就是施耐庵(an)在(zai)《水滸傳》開篇第一(yi)(yi)回(hui)用濃墨重彩繪聲(sheng)繪色描寫(xie)的(de)(de)伏(fu)魔(mo)殿的(de)(de)鎮妖(yao)井。伏(fu)魔(mo)殿早已不(bu)存(cun),但(dan)此(ci)(ci)井仍在(zai)殿口,石(shi)欄依舊,口如谷羅,井圈四(si)周長有(you)青苔綠草。站(zhan)在(zai)“遇洪而開”的(de)(de)洞口朝底(di)探望,井底(di)幽深(shen),確是黑洞洞地啥(sha)也不(bu)見。哪里(li)去找《水滸傳》中“只見一(yi)(yi)道(dao)(dao)黑氣(qi),從穴里(li)沖將出(chu)來,掀蹋了半個殿角。那道(dao)(dao)黑氣(qi)直沖上(shang)(shang)半天(tian)里(li),空中散作百(bai)十道(dao)(dao)金光”的(de)(de)奇觀(guan)?令(ling)人感嘆的(de)(de)倒是施耐庵(an)的(de)(de)生花(hua)妙筆,把(ba)梁山(shan)好(hao)漢出(chu)世鋪陳得如此(ci)(ci)神(shen)(shen)奇,如此(ci)(ci)驚心(xin)動(dong)魄,至今還(huan)牽動(dong)著(zhu)多少游人好(hao)奇的(de)(de)心(xin)!上(shang)(shang)清宮(gong)周圍還(huan)有(you)許多人文景(jing)(jing)觀(guan)和自然(ran)(ran)景(jing)(jing)觀(guan)。沿瀘溪河(he)而上(shang)(shang)是上(shang)(shang)清林場的(de)(de)林區,對岸一(yi)(yi)片樟林,是當年紅(hong)十軍與中央紅(hong)軍會師(shi)之(zhi)處。宮(gong)南(nan)(nan)隔河(he)的(de)(de)桂洲是明代武英殿首席大學(xue)生夏言(yan)故里(li),這(zhe)位明代嘉靖年間的(de)(de)耿耿名臣(chen)、朝廷宰相(xiang),因支持(chi)收復河(he)套的(de)(de)主張(zhang)被奸臣(chen)嚴嵩所害,其(qi)父夏鼎之(zhi)墓便(bian)在(zai)上(shang)(shang)清宮(gong)南(nan)(nan)二(er)里(li)處,可(ke)供憑(ping)吊。另外,圍繞(rao)著(zhu)龍(long)虎(hu)山(shan)上(shang)(shang)清宮(gong)周圍,還(huan)有(you)十八道(dao)(dao)宮(gong)、八十一(yi)(yi)座道(dao)(dao)觀(guan)和三十六(liu)座道(dao)(dao)院遺址(zhi),以及天(tian)師(shi)墓等等。道(dao)(dao)教祖庭龍(long)虎(hu)山(shan),真的(de)(de)不(bu)虛此(ci)(ci)名。
天師府宋(song)崇寧四(si)年(nian)(nian)(1105)始建(jian)于(yu)上清鎮(zhen)關門口,元(yuan)延祐六年(nian)(nian)(1319)重建(jian)于(yu)上清鎮(zhen)長慶坊(fang),明太祖(zu)洪武(wu)元(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(1368)建(jian)于(yu)今址。占地(di)二萬(wan)四(si)千(qian)多平方(fang)米,建(jian)筑面(mian)積(ji)一萬(wan)一千(qian)多平方(fang)米,主要(yao)建(jian)筑有府門、儀門、玄壇殿(dian),真武(wu)殿(dian)、提舉署、法(fa)(fa)篆局、贊教廳、萬(wan)法(fa)(fa)宗(zong)壇、大堂(tang)、家廟、私第(即三省堂(tang))、味腴書屋、敕書閣、觀(guan)星臺、納涼居、靈芝園、以(yi)及廂房廊屋等。
明代(dai)的建筑大部分已毀于清康(kang)熙年間,現存六千(qian)平方(fang)米左右的建筑,多(duo)是清代(dai)乾隆、同治年間重建和修(xiu)建的遺物。
府門(men)(men)(即頭門(men)(men))臨(lin)溪聳立,古鎮小(xiao)街東(dong)西橫穿,面闊五間,約二百平方(fang)米,高達二丈有一,十幾根大木(mu)柱,六扇三(san)開大門(men)(men),中門(men)(men)正(zheng)上(shang)(shang)方(fang)懸“嗣(si)漢天師府”直匾一塊,金光奪目。前正(zheng)中兩柱掛(gua)有黑(hei)底(di)金字抱柱對聯,上(shang)(shang)聯“麒麟殿(dian)上(shang)(shang)神仙客”,下聯“龍虎山中宰相家(jia)”,東(dong)側置大鼓(gu)一面,名曰:“通(tong)報鼓(gu)”。門(men)(men)前東(dong)西墻間有石(shi)刻“道尊”,“德貴”二坊(fang)(今(jin)不(bu)存)。建筑雄偉,氣勢(shi)不(bu)凡(fan)。
二門(men)(men)(men)(men)距頭門(men)(men)(men)(men)一百(bai)(bai)二十(shi)步(bu),建于清同治四年(1865),現已(yi)修復一新。面闊三(san)間(jian),進深三(san)間(jian),東西耳房(fang)各一間(jian),共一百(bai)(bai)六十(shi)平方米。較頭門(men)(men)(men)(men)矮三(san)尺,紅(hong)墻綠瓦,脊獸騰飛。十(shi)二根(gen)大木(mu)柱設門(men)(men)(men)(men)六扇三(san)道,門(men)(men)(men)(men)上(shang)畫有秦(qin)瓊、尉(wei)遲恭、楊林、羅成、程咬(yao)金(jin)(jin)、單雄信六尊像為三(san)對門(men)(men)(men)(men)神。中門(men)(men)(men)(men)上(shang)端懸直匾一塊,上(shang)書(shu)“敕靈(ling)旨”三(san)個(ge)金(jin)(jin)字:前兩柱掛有黑底金(jin)(jin)字抱柱對聯,上(shang)聯“道高龍虎伏”,下聯“德(de)重鬼神欽”。十(shi)八般古代兵器金(jin)(jin)光銀閃并列兩旁(pang),顯得十(shi)分威嚴(yan)。
二門前,東為玄壇殿,西為法篆局、提舉署(均毀待建)。進入二(er)門有一(yi)(yi)大(da)院(yuan),院(yuan)內(nei)合抱樟樹十(shi)余(yu)株(zhu),枝葉繁(fan)茂,十(shi)分蔥翠(cui)。元(yuan)至正十(shi)一(yi)(yi)年鑄(zhu)造的九(jiu)千斤銅鐘,曾(ceng)于一(yi)(yi)九(jiu)七九(jiu)年從太上(shang)清(qing)(qing)宮移(yi)(yi)放(fang)院(yuan)內(nei)(待建鐘鼓樓),以供(gong)欣賞。元(yuan)代書法家趙孟頫手書的大(da)石碑也移(yi)(yi)放(fang)在(zai)古樟之下、以供(gong)考究。在(zai)二(er)門通往大(da)堂(tang)的甬道中心,掘有一(yi)(yi)井(jing)(jing),深二(er)丈七,據傳系南宋(song)道士(shi)白玉蟾奉天(tian)師法旨所(suo)建。名(ming):一(yi)(yi)日(ri)“丹井(jing)(jing)”,二(er)日(ri)“靈泉井(jing)(jing)”,三日(ri)“法水井(jing)(jing)”,院(yuan)內(nei)二(er)門兩廂設有品茶亭(ting)和小(xiao)賣部,游(you)客至此(ci)可品上(shang)龍虎山(shan)仙茶和上(shang)清(qing)(qing)板栗等龍虎山(shan)土(tu)特產。
大堂(tang)建于清同(tong)治十(shi)二年(nian)(nian)(nian)(1873)。大堂(tang)是天師(shi)實施道政(zheng)的地方,前距二門(men)(men)“九(jiu)九(jiu)”八十(shi)一步,后(hou)靠(kao)私第院門(men)(men),面(mian)闊五間,約三(san)(san)百平方米,較頭門(men)(men)矮二尺,比二門(men)(men)高一尺,三(san)(san)面(mian)紅(hong)墻,門(men)(men)前建有(you)“塞(sai)身(shen)亭”,堂(tang)后(hou)門(men)(men)直通三(san)(san)省堂(tang),中(zhong)廳(ting)正上(shang)方橫懸康(kang)熙十(shi)七(qi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)“御(yu)書“碧城”匾和乾(qian)隆七(qi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)御(yu)賜(si)“教(jiao)演宗傳”匾各一塊。堂(tang)內原置有(you)法臺、令旗、朱筆、兵器、御(yu)賜(si)半副(fu)鑾駕,以及麒麟圖(tu)祖天師(shi)像(xiang)等,頗(po)有(you)公堂(tang)神(shen)威之感(gan)。
私第是(shi)(shi)歷(li)代天(tian)師(shi)(shi)的住宅,名“三(san)省堂”,為江南院(yuan)(yuan)落式,是(shi)(shi)明建清修(xiu)之物。院(yuan)(yuan)門梁記載:“皇清同(tong)治六年謹修(xiu)”。今已再次(ci)油(you)畫修(xiu)繕。這區建筑是(shi)(shi)天(tian)師(shi)(shi)府的主體,面(mian)積約二千(qian)平方米,分前、后、中三(san)廳(ting)和東(dong)西廊房,以及前左右花(hua)墻(qiang)廂房,并與后花(hua)園和敕書(shu)閣結成一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)體,雕梁畫棟,金碧輝(hui)煌。院(yuan)(yuan)門前上(shang)(shang)書(shu)白底藍(lan)字對聯(lian)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)副,上(shang)(shang)聯(lian)“南國無(wu)雙地(di)(di)”,下聯(lian)“西江第一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)家”。院(yuan)(yuan)門隱壁(bi)畫有(you)“鶴(he)鹿蜂猴”巨畫一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)幅,象征(zheng)高官厚祿,宰相(xiang)門第。繞隱壁(bi)登上(shang)(shang)三(san)省堂,三(san)省前后中三(san)廳(ting):前廳(ting)為客廳(ting),面(mian)闊五間,三(san)明二暗(an),四柱前伸,石階(jie)(jie)五級,敞(chang)門而進,東(dong)西花(hua)欄,各設臺階(jie)(jie),廳(ting)前地(di)(di)面(mian)有(you)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)綠(lv)色園石,名“匝送(song)石”。堂壁(bi)掛有(you)墨(mo)龍穿云圖和祖天(tian)師(shi)(shi)像,東(dong)西四壁(bi)皆書(shu)名詩古畫。堂壁(bi)上(shang)(shang)方懸匾三(san)塊(kuai):“道契崆峒”一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)匾置位正中央(yang),“仙(xian)派(pai)名裔”排于東(dong),“納甲周呈”列(lie)于西。
中廳(ting)(亦稱狐(hu)仙堂),相傳是天(tian)師祀奉“狐(hu)仙”之(zhi)所,堂內設有(you)供(gong)桌、神臺,常明燈等供(gong)品(pin)神器。建(jian)筑結構,前(qian)與前(qian)廳(ting)用(yong)以天(tian)溝搭接,又以磚墻石門(men)(men)分之(zhi),后(hou)與后(hou)廳(ting)天(tian)井廂房連綴。前(qian)門(men)(men)額上書(shu)“道(dao)自清(qing)虛”四個金(jin)光(guang)大字,東西(xi)二門(men)(men)分“紫氣”、“金(jin)光(guang)”,各有(you)額書(shu)。
后(hou)廳(ting)(ting):后(hou)廳(ting)(ting)是天(tian)(tian)(tian)師的食宿生活廳(ting)(ting),面闊五間(jian),用(yong)以房(fang)室四(si)問,宴廳(ting)(ting)一間(jian),前(qian)有天(tian)(tian)(tian)井(jing)后(hou)有院,東西廂房(fang)上有樓(lou),廂房(fang)與(yu)中廳(ting)(ting)連接,天(tian)(tian)(tian)井(jing)周十柱明現,門(men)窗四(si)壁,雕刻(ke)精致,中置金魚大缸,兩(liang)旁假山列之(zhi)。宴廳(ting)(ting)擺設為(wei)清代款式,四(si)壁名(ming)畫詩(shi)詞,中堂正上方(fang)懸(xuan)黑(hei)底花邊金字匾(bian)一塊,上書“壺天(tian)(tian)(tian)春永”,據說(shuo)是袁(yuan)世凱送六十一代天(tian)(tian)(tian)師六十辰(chen)壽匾(bian)。廳(ting)(ting)前(qian)上方(fang)懸(xuan)“福備箕疇”一匾(bian),說(shuo)為(wei)清代一狀元(yuan)徐甫(fu)所題贈。