說起來(lai),這個“踅”字(zi)也(ye)是有一(yi)段故事的,“踅”字(zi)本(ben)身(shen)是個冷(leng)僻字(zi),清代(dai)合陽(yang)(yang)有人(ren)(ren)編了(le)(le)一(yi)本(ben)《土音(yin)(yin)雜字(zi)》,出于好心,找了(le)(le)一(yi)個古音(yin)(yin)又讀“xué”的“頁”字(zi)來(lai)為“踅”字(zi)注音(yin)(yin)。但(dan)不(bu)想知(zhi)知(zhi)道這個古音(yin)(yin)的人(ren)(ren)實在太少(shao)了(le)(le),結果弄(nong)巧(qiao)成拙,大家都(dou)按本(ben)音(yin)(yin)讀“yè”,而沒有人(ren)(ren)讀“踅xué”,外地(di)人(ren)(ren)到合陽(yang)(yang)更是按字(zi)讀音(yin)(yin),這樣一(yi)來(lai),便把“踅面”弄(nong)成“頁面”了(le)(le),實在是一(yi)大誤會。
踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)原產地(di)在(zai)合(he)陽(yang),相(xiang)(xiang)傳西(xi)漢高祖三(san)年,也(ye)就(jiu)(jiu)是(shi)公(gong)元前204年,淮(huai)陰候韓信在(zai)合(he)陽(yang)黃河邊(bian)的(de)(de)(de)夏陽(yang)渡用(yong)木罌(ying)渡軍活捉河東魏王豹,為(wei)了解決10萬(wan)大軍吃飯(fan)問(wen)題發(fa)明了踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian),距今已有2200多年的(de)(de)(de)歷史。吃著(zhu)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian),再(zai)(zai)想(xiang)想(xiang)這個(ge)關(guan)于(yu)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)起(qi)源的(de)(de)(de)典故,就(jiu)(jiu)知道當年韓信怎么(me)發(fa)明出踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)作為(wei)行軍打(da)仗(zhang)(zhang)的(de)(de)(de)飯(fan)食(shi)。一(yi)(yi)(yi)是(shi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)勁道。厚(hou)且筋大,吃在(zai)嘴里耐(nai)嚼(jiao),咽(yan)在(zai)肚里耐(nai)饑。二是(shi)味醇(chun)。吃踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)時(shi)除了鹽、味精(jing)等其(qi)(qi)它(ta)常用(yong)調料外(wai),要拌(ban)以豬油和辣(la)子,所以吃起(qi)來(lai)油香濃郁,辣(la)味悠長,兩(liang)者都(dou)能(neng)增(zeng)進食(shi)欲(yu)。三(san)是(shi)方(fang)便。這與踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)的(de)(de)(de)做工有關(guan),我(wo)曾見過做踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)的(de)(de)(de)過程,先是(shi)和面(mian),在(zai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)個(ge)很大的(de)(de)(de)瓷盆里倒進面(mian)粉(fen)和適量水(shui),用(yong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)根粗木棒順著(zhu)同一(yi)(yi)(yi)方(fang)向攪,攪得稀稠(chou)勻當了,舀(yao)一(yi)(yi)(yi)勺子倒在(zai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)張(zhang)直徑(jing)差(cha)不多有2尺多的(de)(de)(de)大鐵鏊(ao)中心(xin),再(zai)(zai)用(yong)半(ban)月形(xing)的(de)(de)(de)木踅(xue)(xue)(xue)子從鏊(ao)心(xin)向四周一(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)(quan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)(quan)旋著(zhu)刮(gua)(gua)開(kai)攤(tan)平。據說踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)的(de)(de)(de)名(ming)子就(jiu)(jiu)是(shi)由那個(ge)半(ban)月形(xing)的(de)(de)(de)木踅(xue)(xue)(xue)子而得的(de)(de)(de)。但街上也(ye)有把“踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)”寫(xie)作“旋面(mian)”的(de)(de)(de),想(xiang)必也(ye)與一(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)(quan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)(quan)地(di)旋著(zhu)刮(gua)(gua)攤(tan)有關(guan)。烙熟后一(yi)(yi)(yi)張(zhang)張(zhang)搭在(zai)外(wai)面(mian)涼冷(leng),再(zai)(zai)切成寬窄與薄厚(hou)相(xiang)(xiang)當的(de)(de)(de)條形(xing),碼得整(zheng)整(zheng)齊(qi)齊(qi),這樣(yang)能(neng)保質三(san)、五天(tian),吃時(shi)只需在(zai)開(kai)水(shui)鍋里滾一(yi)(yi)(yi)下(xia)即可(ke)。相(xiang)(xiang)對(dui)于(yu)其(qi)(qi)他飯(fan)食(shi),踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)的(de)(de)(de)三(san)個(ge)特點都(dou)更有利于(yu)行軍打(da)仗(zhang)(zhang),漢高祖能(neng)穩坐天(tian)下(xia),其(qi)(qi)中也(ye)有踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)份功勞。
如今,社會發展(zhan)了(le),人(ren)(ren)們(men)生活(huo)水平提高(gao)了(le),吃(chi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)也(ye)稍有(you)(you)講究(jiu)了(le)。踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)都在小(xiao)飯館里賣,且(qie)大多同(tong)(tong)時經營面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)皮、米線等其(qi)(qi)他小(xiao)吃(chi),也(ye)不(bu)再現場(chang)直播,而(er)是前堂用餐(can)(can),后面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)都隔了(le)操作間。桌凳也(ye)換成了(le)青一(yi)色(se)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)專用于餐(can)(can)館的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)高(gao)桌、高(gao)凳。人(ren)(ren)們(men)也(ye)更不(bu)用象行軍打仗那樣,在吃(chi)飯上(shang)計較時間長短,何況超市里各種各樣的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)方(fang)便面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)讓人(ren)(ren)能挑(tiao)花眼。但踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)仍然受人(ren)(ren)青睞。自己(ji)沒(mei)有(you)(you)在合陽(yang)(yang)呆過,不(bu)知踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)故鄉合陽(yang)(yang)人(ren)(ren)是不(bu)是非常(chang)愛(ai)吃(chi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。而(er)在華(hua)(hua)陰(yin),我(wo)(wo)所(suo)熟知的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)人(ren)(ren)沒(mei)有(you)(you)不(bu)喜(xi)歡踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)。用餐(can)(can)時分,隨便走進哪個(ge)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)館,都幾乎座無虛席,食者(zhe)無論(lun)男婦老(lao)幼,不(bu)分尊卑貴賤。不(bu)僅(jin)(jin)小(xiao)攤小(xiao)店里有(you)(you),星級(ji)賓館飯店里踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)也(ye)是食譜里小(xiao)吃(chi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)代表品類,每宴賓客,華(hua)(hua)陰(yin)人(ren)(ren)必(bi)以踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)為特(te)色(se)小(xiao)吃(chi)待之。不(bu)僅(jin)(jin)如此,我(wo)(wo)還聽說一(yi)些(xie)遠(yuan)離家鄉在外地干事的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)華(hua)(hua)陰(yin)人(ren)(ren)一(yi)旦回澄,顧不(bu)上(shang)奔家里,先要到街上(shang)找一(yi)家踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)館,飽餐(can)(can)一(yi)頓久違的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),平日里和(he)同(tong)(tong)事們(men)出(chu)去吃(chi)飯,他們(men)也(ye)常(chang)常(chang)以踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)為首選,有(you)(you)時候即使一(yi)塊兒享用其(qi)(qi)他飯食,當(dang)中必(bi)有(you)(you)人(ren)(ren)嘆(tan)曰(yue):哎呀!好(hao)些(xie)日子都沒(mei)有(you)(you)吃(chi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)了(le)。每當(dang)這個(ge)時候,我(wo)(wo)就想(xiang),踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)雖生在合陽(yang)(yang),但也(ye)在華(hua)(hua)陰(yin)扎了(le)根,而(er)且(qie)這根扎在了(le)華(hua)(hua)陰(yin)人(ren)(ren)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)心里,讓在外的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)游子魂牽夢縈,讓幾乎所(suo)有(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)華(hua)(hua)陰(yin)人(ren)(ren)都有(you)(you)一(yi)個(ge)共同(tong)(tong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)飲食愛(ai)好(hao),在華(hua)(hua)陰(yin)若要論(lun)起飲食文化來,我(wo)(wo)看華(hua)(hua)陰(yin)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)當(dang)是首選的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)飯食之一(yi)。
踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)蕎(qiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)做成(cheng),分為磨面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、和(he)(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、攤(tan)(tan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、切(qie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、下面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)五(wu)道工序。首先把(ba)(ba)蕎(qiao)麥揀凈(jing)淘好,磨成(cheng)細面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。和(he)(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時要用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)能(neng)裝(zhuang)四(si)五(wu)十(shi)斤的(de)(de)(de)大(da)瓷盆(pen),在(zai)(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)(fen)里添(tian)上水(shui),用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)根粗木棒順(shun)同一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)方(fang)向攪(jiao)拌,這是關鍵的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)環(huan),必須(xu)稀稠(chou)得(de)(de)當(dang),攪(jiao)拌均勻。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)糊和(he)(he)得(de)(de)好,攤(tan)(tan)出的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)才能(neng)好。陜(shan)西人(ren)做面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)講究自(zi)己動手,去市場里買壓好的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條是會給鄙(bi)視的(de)(de)(de),所(suo)以壓面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)機在(zai)(zai)陜(shan)西一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)直銷量有限,賣踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)人(ren)講究自(zi)已動手,把(ba)(ba)蕎(qiao)麥揀凈(jing)淘好,磨成(cheng)細面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。和(he)(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時要用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)能(neng)裝(zhuang)四(si)五(wu)十(shi)斤的(de)(de)(de)大(da)瓷盆(pen),在(zai)(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)(fen)里添(tian)上水(shui),用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)根粗木棒順(shun)同一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)方(fang)向攪(jiao)拌,這是關鍵的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)環(huan),必須(xu)稀稠(chou)得(de)(de)當(dang),攪(jiao)拌均勻。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)糊和(he)(he)得(de)(de)好,攤(tan)(tan)出的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)更好。攤(tan)(tan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)(de)是物制的(de)(de)(de)鐵鏊(ao),重達40余斤,直徑二(er)尺多(duo)。舀一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)勺和(he)(he)好的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)糊倒在(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心(xin)(xin),用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)半月形的(de)(de)(de)木踅子劃(hua)開攤(tan)(tan)平,據說“踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”即由此得(de)(de)名。稍頃,待一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)受火(huo)變硬翻過(guo)來烘烤另一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),烙(luo)(luo)到(dao)七(qi)八成(cheng)熟,疊在(zai)(zai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)起,折(zhe)(zhe)成(cheng)四(si)折(zhe)(zhe),用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)刀切(qie)成(cheng)細絲,講究切(qie)成(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)寬窄和(he)(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)餅薄厚一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)樣,四(si)棱見(jian)線,才顯(xian)功夫(fu)。切(qie)好的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)碼在(zai)(zai)木箱在(zai)(zai)里備用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)。吃時把(ba)(ba)水(shui)燒(shao)開,再放少許鹽,以防(fang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)入鍋中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)變粘。抓一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)把(ba)(ba)切(qie)好的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)投入鍋中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)筷(kuai)子須(xu)鍋一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)攪(jiao),便(bian)可(ke)撈(lao)起。外(wai)地人(ren)見(jian)狀總懷(huai)疑(yi)這面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是否(fou)變熟,其實(shi)完全不用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)擔(dan)心(xin)(xin),因為在(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)上已烙(luo)(luo)至七(qi)八成(cheng),再在(zai)(zai)沸(fei)湯(tang)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)燙(tang),便(bian)完全熟了。或(huo)干撈(lao),或(huo)帶(dai)湯(tang),悉聽尊便(bian),須(xu)手再用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)笊(zhao)籬撈(lao)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)些魚(yu)兒粉(fen)(fen),然后調上豬油(you)(you)(you)(白(bai)油(you)(you)(you))、大(da)油(you)(you)(you)辣椒(jiao)(紅油(you)(you)(you))、清油(you)(you)(you)辣椒(jiao)、鹽、醋、蘸一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)點花椒(jiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),撒一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)捏蔥花或(huo)韭菜花,便(bian)可(ke)食用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)了。
吃踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)時(shi)豬(zhu)油(you)(you)(you)必(bi)不(bu)(bu)(bu)可(ke)(ke)少(shao),蕎(qiao)面(mian)調上豬(zhu)油(you)(you)(you),才(cai)(cai)軟和好(hao)吃。外地人(ren)一(yi)(yi)是(shi)(shi)嫌蕎(qiao)面(mian)看起來黑,其(qi)貌(mao)不(bu)(bu)(bu)揚;二是(shi)(shi)怕(pa)不(bu)(bu)(bu)熟;三是(shi)(shi)對(dui)(dui)紅(hong)油(you)(you)(you)辣椒望(wang)而生(sheng)畏,但若吃上一(yi)(yi)碗,便覺(jue)(jue)味(wei)(wei)美可(ke)(ke)口,咬到嘴里筋,吃到肚里香,方知合陽人(ren)為什么對(dui)(dui)踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)感情極深。合陽人(ren)不(bu)(bu)(bu)分(fen)男女(nv)老少(shao),都(dou)喜食踅(xue)(xue)面(mian),上會趕集,少(shao)不(bu)(bu)(bu)了兩碗踅(xue)(xue)面(mian),一(yi)(yi)個個吃得滿嘴紅(hong)油(you)(you)(you),即使是(shi)(shi)穿著入(ru)時(shi)的大姑娘小媳婦也絲毫不(bu)(bu)(bu)覺(jue)(jue)難為情,反而卻覺(jue)(jue)得這才(cai)(cai)吃出味(wei)(wei)兒來了。逢到過春節,許多家都(dou)是(shi)(shi)專門訂做幾十斤(jin),準備好(hao)紅(hong)油(you)(you)(you)辣椒,以便招待(dai)親朋好(hao)友;碰到接待(dai)外地來客,踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)更是(shi)(shi)飯(fan)桌上必(bi)不(bu)(bu)(bu)可(ke)(ke)少(shao)的保留節目。
制作好(hao)的(de)踅面好(hao)比方便面。吃時(shi)在開(kai)水鍋浸(jin)泡兩分鐘(zhong),撈(lao)出,放進碗里,加(jia)少許粉(fen)(fen)魚,調(diao)鹽(yan)、醋(cu)、蔥花(hua)(hua)、花(hua)(hua)椒(jiao)面,再淋上(shang)辣椒(jiao)油(you)(you)及(ji)熟豬油(you)(you)即成。粉(fen)(fen)魚講究用(yong)(yong)綠豆粉(fen)(fen)制作,這(zhe)是最好(hao)的(de)。用(yong)(yong)小麥面、玉米(mi)面也(ye)(ye)行。但通(tong)常多(duo)用(yong)(yong)紅薯面制作粉(fen)(fen)魚。合(he)陽盛(sheng)產優質紅薯,干(gan)甜適口,制作粉(fen)(fen)魚也(ye)(ye)不錯。合(he)陽人(ren)吃踅面,喜(xi)歡多(duo)放辣椒(jiao)油(you)(you)和豬油(you)(you),這(zhe)樣,吃起(qi)來,又(you)(you)(you)綿,又(you)(you)(you)潤(run),又(you)(you)(you)辣,香味濃烈,頗覺(jue)過癮。也(ye)(ye)可(ke)以伴著喝一(yi)碗粉(fen)(fen)魚湯。有(you)干(gan)有(you)稀,符合(he)衛生營養要(yao)求(qiu)。而且(qie)蕎麥又(you)(you)(you)有(you)清熱利尿之功效,當(dang)地群眾在原來簡(jian)單食用(yong)(yong)的(de)基礎上(shang)也(ye)(ye)進行了一(yi)些(xie)改進,把(ba)大(da)餅切成細(xi)條,吃時(shi)在鍋里稍煮,撈(lao)出來加(jia)上(shang)調(diao)料,更加(jia)好(hao)吃。
在(zai)合陽各(ge)(ge)地都(dou)可以吃到踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian),坊(fang)鎮踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)被(bei)稱為正宗(zong),高手(shou)輩出,每逢集(ji)日,數十家踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)各(ge)(ge)呈民(min)彩。近半個世紀來則以田茂林的踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)最為出名。
炒踅面更是(shi)做為(wei)一盤美味菜肴出現在(zai)豪華酒店(dian)的(de)(de)菜譜里(li)(li)。東(dong)門大酒店(dian)張(zhang)師(shi)傅做的(de)(de)炒踅面五彩斑斕,酥潤可口(kou),韻味悠長(chang)(chang),嚼到嘴里(li)(li)筋(jin),咽(yan)到肚里(li)(li)香。“長(chang)(chang)壽(shou)菜”——炒踅面:龜(gui)壽(shou)延年(nian)(老人過(guo)壽(shou)時(shi),一只千年(nian)壽(shou)龜(gui)栩栩如生昂首在(zai)你(ni)的(de)(de)面前);富貴滿(man)園(中年(nian)人過(guo)生日時(shi),一朵牡丹(dan)花盛開(kai)在(zai)你(ni)的(de)(de)生命里(li)(li));太陽花開(kai)(孩子過(guo)生日時(shi),一朵太陽花燦爛(lan)在(zai)你(ni)的(de)(de)心(xin)田(tian))。
炒(chao)踅(xue)面做(zuo)法很(hen)簡單。用(yong)料:干散的踅(xue)面、雞蛋、辣椒、卷心(xin)菜、西紅(hong)柿等(deng)蔬菜。把(ba)熟油熱至(zhi)4、5成,先(xian)倒(dao)入(ru)(ru)蔥姜(jiang)蒜(suan)爆(bao)炒(chao),再放入(ru)(ru)花椒面、辣椒面,接著放入(ru)(ru)黃豆芽(ya)、紅(hong)、綠辣椒絲炒(chao)至(zhi)7、8成,最后倒(dao)入(ru)(ru)踅(xue)面,加高湯翻炒(chao)裝盤。
踅面一(yi)年四季都(dou)能(neng)進食,“夏吃(chi)解乏困,冬食驅(qu)冷寒”,蕎面能(neng)消暑利(li)尿,有解乏除濕的藥效,常吃(chi)可(ke)以降(jiang)血脂,平血壓,治(zhi)便(bian)秘,調胃潤腸,既治(zhi)病,又保(bao)健,可(ke)謂是(shi)“長壽面”。隨(sui)著人(ren)們對蕎麥天然保(bao)健作(zuo)用的認識(shi),踅面必將(jiang)風靡全國,走(zou)向世界。
踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)是(shi)家(jia)鄉(xiang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)味道,是(shi)家(jia)鄉(xiang)人兒時(shi)(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)“情結(jie)”。猶記(ji)兒時(shi)(shi)(shi)跟(gen)隨父(fu)母(mu)去(qu)趕(gan)集的(de)(de)(de)(de)情景,口(kou)饞,總(zong)想吃(chi)點什么,父(fu)母(mu)便(bian)帶我們姐(jie)弟踅(xue)(xue)(xue)過來,踅(xue)(xue)(xue)過去(qu),最終還是(shi)停(ting)到最便(bian)宜的(de)(de)(de)(de)“踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)”攤前一(yi)飽口(kou)福(fu)。農(nong)民的(de)(de)(de)(de)父(fu)母(mu)親(qin)窮啊,買不(bu)起時(shi)(shi)(shi)更多(duo)的(de)(de)(de)(de)時(shi)(shi)(shi)候(hou)(hou)許諾下(xia)次趕(gan)集時(shi)(shi)(shi)讓(rang)吃(chi)碗踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)——兒時(shi)(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)“奢(she)侈飯”,因此長大了(le)(le)(le),有(you)錢了(le)(le)(le),可還是(shi)惦記(ji)兒時(shi)(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)“踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)”,就是(shi)走出(chu)去(qu)多(duo)少年,走出(chu)去(qu)多(duo)么遠,仍然惦記(ji)。它已經深(shen)深(shen)地(di)在家(jia)鄉(xiang)人的(de)(de)(de)(de)心里扎了(le)(le)(le)根,讓(rang)在外的(de)(de)(de)(de)游(you)子也(ye)魂(hun)牽夢縈(ying)。走,咥(xi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)哈。離家(jia)的(de)(de)(de)(de)游(you)子或(huo)者在外打(da)工的(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)旦回家(jia),路過街上先找(zhao)一(yi)家(jia)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)店,咥(xi)兩(liang)碗家(jia)鄉(xiang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian),飽餐一(yi)頓。平日(ri)里和同事們出(chu)去(qu)吃(chi)飯,也(ye)常常以(yi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)為首選,有(you)時(shi)(shi)(shi)候(hou)(hou)即使(shi)一(yi)塊兒享用其他飯食,當中有(you)人必(bi)嘆(tan):哎呀(ya)!好些(xie)日(ri)子都沒有(you)吃(chi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)了(le)(le)(le)。
踅面(mian)好,好踅面(mian)。到(dao)了合陽(yang)吃(chi)踅面(mian)。你一(yi)碗,我一(yi)碗,吃(chi)到(dao)肚子真(zhen)真(zhen)餡(xian)……街頭巷(xiang)尾(wei)《踅面(mian)香(xiang)(xiang)香(xiang)(xiang)》的童謠時(shi)時(shi)在耳(er)邊響起……