說起(qi)來(lai),這(zhe)個“踅(xue)(xue)(xue)”字也(ye)是(shi)有一(yi)段(duan)故事的,“踅(xue)(xue)(xue)”字本(ben)身是(shi)個冷僻(pi)字,清代合(he)陽有人編了一(yi)本(ben)《土(tu)音雜字》,出于好(hao)心(xin),找(zhao)了一(yi)個古音又讀(du)“xué”的“頁”字來(lai)為(wei)“踅(xue)(xue)(xue)”字注音。但(dan)不想知知道(dao)這(zhe)個古音的人實在太少了,結果弄巧成拙(zhuo),大(da)家都按本(ben)音讀(du)“yè”,而(er)沒(mei)有人讀(du)“踅(xue)(xue)(xue)xué”,外地人到合(he)陽更是(shi)按字讀(du)音,這(zhe)樣一(yi)來(lai),便把“踅(xue)(xue)(xue)面”弄成“頁面”了,實在是(shi)一(yi)大(da)誤會。
踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)原(yuan)產地在合(he)陽,相(xiang)傳(chuan)西漢(han)高祖三年(nian),也(ye)就是公元前204年(nian),淮陰(yin)候(hou)韓(han)信在合(he)陽黃河邊(bian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)夏陽渡用(yong)木罌渡軍(jun)(jun)活捉河東魏王豹,為(wei)了(le)解決(jue)10萬(wan)大軍(jun)(jun)吃(chi)(chi)飯(fan)問題發(fa)明了(le)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian),距今已(yi)有(you)2200多年(nian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)歷史。吃(chi)(chi)著(zhu)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian),再想(xiang)(xiang)想(xiang)(xiang)這個關于(yu)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)起源的(de)(de)(de)(de)典故,就知(zhi)道(dao)當年(nian)韓(han)信怎么發(fa)明出踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)作(zuo)為(wei)行(xing)軍(jun)(jun)打(da)仗的(de)(de)(de)(de)飯(fan)食。一(yi)(yi)(yi)是踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)勁道(dao)。厚且筋(jin)大,吃(chi)(chi)在嘴里耐嚼,咽在肚里耐饑(ji)。二是味醇(chun)。吃(chi)(chi)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)時除(chu)了(le)鹽、味精等(deng)其它常(chang)用(yong)調料(liao)外,要拌以豬油(you)和辣(la)子,所以吃(chi)(chi)起來油(you)香濃郁,辣(la)味悠長,兩者(zhe)都能(neng)增進(jin)食欲。三是方(fang)便。這與(yu)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)做工有(you)關,我曾見(jian)過做踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)過程(cheng),先(xian)是和面(mian)(mian),在一(yi)(yi)(yi)個很(hen)大的(de)(de)(de)(de)瓷(ci)盆里倒(dao)進(jin)面(mian)(mian)粉和適量(liang)水,用(yong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)根粗木棒順著(zhu)同一(yi)(yi)(yi)方(fang)向攪,攪得稀稠勻當了(le),舀一(yi)(yi)(yi)勺子倒(dao)在一(yi)(yi)(yi)張(zhang)直徑差不多有(you)2尺多的(de)(de)(de)(de)大鐵鏊中(zhong)(zhong)心,再用(yong)半(ban)月(yue)形的(de)(de)(de)(de)木踅(xue)子從鏊心向四周一(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)(quan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)(quan)旋著(zhu)刮開攤平。據說踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)名(ming)子就是由那個半(ban)月(yue)形的(de)(de)(de)(de)木踅(xue)子而得的(de)(de)(de)(de)。但街上也(ye)有(you)把“踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)”寫作(zuo)“旋面(mian)(mian)”的(de)(de)(de)(de),想(xiang)(xiang)必也(ye)與(yu)一(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)(quan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)圈(quan)(quan)地旋著(zhu)刮攤有(you)關。烙熟后一(yi)(yi)(yi)張(zhang)張(zhang)搭(da)在外面(mian)(mian)涼冷,再切成寬窄(zhai)與(yu)薄厚相(xiang)當的(de)(de)(de)(de)條形,碼得整整齊(qi)齊(qi),這樣能(neng)保(bao)質三、五天(tian),吃(chi)(chi)時只需(xu)在開水鍋(guo)里滾一(yi)(yi)(yi)下即(ji)可。相(xiang)對于(yu)其他飯(fan)食,踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)三個特點都更有(you)利于(yu)行(xing)軍(jun)(jun)打(da)仗,漢(han)高祖能(neng)穩坐天(tian)下,其中(zhong)(zhong)也(ye)有(you)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)份功勞。
如今,社會發展(zhan)了(le),人(ren)們(men)(men)(men)生活水(shui)平提高了(le),吃(chi)踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)也(ye)稍有(you)(you)(you)講究了(le)。踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)都(dou)(dou)在(zai)(zai)(zai)小(xiao)飯(fan)館(guan)里(li)賣(mai),且(qie)大多同時(shi)(shi)經(jing)營面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)皮、米線等其他小(xiao)吃(chi),也(ye)不(bu)(bu)(bu)再現場直播(bo),而(er)是前堂用餐(can)(can),后面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)都(dou)(dou)隔了(le)操(cao)作間。桌凳也(ye)換成(cheng)了(le)青一(yi)(yi)(yi)色的(de)專(zhuan)用于(yu)餐(can)(can)館(guan)的(de)高桌、高凳。人(ren)們(men)(men)(men)也(ye)更不(bu)(bu)(bu)用象行(xing)軍打(da)仗(zhang)那樣(yang),在(zai)(zai)(zai)吃(chi)飯(fan)上(shang)計較(jiao)時(shi)(shi)間長短(duan),何況超(chao)市里(li)各種各樣(yang)的(de)方便面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)讓(rang)人(ren)能挑花眼。但(dan)踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)仍然受人(ren)青睞。自己沒有(you)(you)(you)在(zai)(zai)(zai)合(he)陽呆過(guo),不(bu)(bu)(bu)知(zhi)踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)故鄉合(he)陽人(ren)是不(bu)(bu)(bu)是非常(chang)愛(ai)吃(chi)踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。而(er)在(zai)(zai)(zai)華(hua)陰(yin)(yin),我(wo)所熟知(zhi)的(de)人(ren)沒有(you)(you)(you)不(bu)(bu)(bu)喜歡踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)。用餐(can)(can)時(shi)(shi)分,隨便走進哪(na)個(ge)(ge)踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)館(guan),都(dou)(dou)幾乎(hu)(hu)座無虛席,食者(zhe)無論(lun)男婦老(lao)幼,不(bu)(bu)(bu)分尊卑貴賤。不(bu)(bu)(bu)僅小(xiao)攤小(xiao)店里(li)有(you)(you)(you),星(xing)級賓(bin)館(guan)飯(fan)店里(li)踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)也(ye)是食譜里(li)小(xiao)吃(chi)的(de)代表(biao)品類,每(mei)宴賓(bin)客,華(hua)陰(yin)(yin)人(ren)必以踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)為特色小(xiao)吃(chi)待之。不(bu)(bu)(bu)僅如此,我(wo)還聽(ting)說一(yi)(yi)(yi)些遠離家鄉在(zai)(zai)(zai)外地干事的(de)華(hua)陰(yin)(yin)人(ren)一(yi)(yi)(yi)旦回(hui)澄(cheng),顧不(bu)(bu)(bu)上(shang)奔家里(li),先要到(dao)街(jie)上(shang)找一(yi)(yi)(yi)家踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)館(guan),飽餐(can)(can)一(yi)(yi)(yi)頓久違的(de)踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),平日(ri)里(li)和同事們(men)(men)(men)出去吃(chi)飯(fan),他們(men)(men)(men)也(ye)常(chang)常(chang)以踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)為首(shou)選,有(you)(you)(you)時(shi)(shi)候(hou)即使(shi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)塊兒享用其他飯(fan)食,當(dang)(dang)中必有(you)(you)(you)人(ren)嘆曰(yue):哎(ai)呀!好(hao)些日(ri)子都(dou)(dou)沒有(you)(you)(you)吃(chi)踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)了(le)。每(mei)當(dang)(dang)這個(ge)(ge)時(shi)(shi)候(hou),我(wo)就想(xiang),踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)雖(sui)生在(zai)(zai)(zai)合(he)陽,但(dan)也(ye)在(zai)(zai)(zai)華(hua)陰(yin)(yin)扎了(le)根(gen),而(er)且(qie)這根(gen)扎在(zai)(zai)(zai)了(le)華(hua)陰(yin)(yin)人(ren)的(de)心里(li),讓(rang)在(zai)(zai)(zai)外的(de)游(you)子魂牽夢縈,讓(rang)幾乎(hu)(hu)所有(you)(you)(you)的(de)華(hua)陰(yin)(yin)人(ren)都(dou)(dou)有(you)(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)(yi)個(ge)(ge)共(gong)同的(de)飲食愛(ai)好(hao),在(zai)(zai)(zai)華(hua)陰(yin)(yin)若要論(lun)起飲食文化來,我(wo)看華(hua)陰(yin)(yin)踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)當(dang)(dang)是首(shou)選的(de)飯(fan)食之一(yi)(yi)(yi)。
踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)蕎(qiao)(qiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)做成(cheng)(cheng),分為磨面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、和(he)(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、攤(tan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、切面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、下面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)五(wu)道工序。首先把(ba)蕎(qiao)(qiao)麥揀凈淘好,磨成(cheng)(cheng)細面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。和(he)(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時(shi)要(yao)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)能裝四五(wu)十斤的(de)(de)(de)大瓷(ci)盆,在(zai)(zai)(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)里(li)(li)添上水(shui),用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)根(gen)粗木(mu)棒(bang)順同一(yi)(yi)(yi)方向攪(jiao)拌,這是(shi)關鍵的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)環,必須(xu)稀(xi)稠得(de)(de)當(dang),攪(jiao)拌均勻(yun)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)糊和(he)(he)得(de)(de)好,攤(tan)出的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)才能好。陜西(xi)(xi)人(ren)做面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)講究(jiu)自己(ji)動(dong)(dong)手,去市(shi)場(chang)里(li)(li)買壓好的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條是(shi)會給鄙(bi)視的(de)(de)(de),所以(yi)壓面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)機在(zai)(zai)(zai)陜西(xi)(xi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)直銷(xiao)量有限,賣踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)人(ren)講究(jiu)自已動(dong)(dong)手,把(ba)蕎(qiao)(qiao)麥揀凈淘好,磨成(cheng)(cheng)細面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。和(he)(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時(shi)要(yao)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)能裝四五(wu)十斤的(de)(de)(de)大瓷(ci)盆,在(zai)(zai)(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)里(li)(li)添上水(shui),用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)根(gen)粗木(mu)棒(bang)順同一(yi)(yi)(yi)方向攪(jiao)拌,這是(shi)關鍵的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)環,必須(xu)稀(xi)稠得(de)(de)當(dang),攪(jiao)拌均勻(yun)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)糊和(he)(he)得(de)(de)好,攤(tan)出的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)更好。攤(tan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)(de)是(shi)物制的(de)(de)(de)鐵(tie)鏊(ao)(ao),重達40余斤,直徑二(er)尺(chi)多。舀一(yi)(yi)(yi)勺和(he)(he)好的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)糊倒在(zai)(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)(ao)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心,用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)半月形的(de)(de)(de)木(mu)踅子(zi)劃開攤(tan)平(ping),據說“踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”即由此得(de)(de)名。稍(shao)頃(qing),待一(yi)(yi)(yi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)受火變(bian)(bian)硬(ying)翻過來烘烤另一(yi)(yi)(yi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),烙到七(qi)八成(cheng)(cheng)熟(shu),疊在(zai)(zai)(zai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)起(qi),折成(cheng)(cheng)四折,用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)刀切成(cheng)(cheng)細絲(si),講究(jiu)切成(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)寬(kuan)窄和(he)(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)餅(bing)薄(bo)厚(hou)一(yi)(yi)(yi)樣,四棱見線,才顯功夫。切好的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)碼在(zai)(zai)(zai)木(mu)箱(xiang)在(zai)(zai)(zai)里(li)(li)備(bei)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)。吃時(shi)把(ba)水(shui)燒開,再放少許鹽(yan)(yan),以(yi)防面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)入(ru)鍋(guo)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)變(bian)(bian)粘。抓一(yi)(yi)(yi)把(ba)切好的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)投入(ru)鍋(guo)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)筷(kuai)子(zi)須(xu)鍋(guo)一(yi)(yi)(yi)攪(jiao),便可(ke)撈起(qi)。外地人(ren)見狀總懷疑這面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)否變(bian)(bian)熟(shu),其實完全(quan)不用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)擔心,因為在(zai)(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)(ao)上已烙至(zhi)七(qi)八成(cheng)(cheng),再在(zai)(zai)(zai)沸湯中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)燙,便完全(quan)熟(shu)了(le)。或干撈,或帶湯,悉聽尊(zun)便,須(xu)手再用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)笊籬撈一(yi)(yi)(yi)些魚兒粉(fen),然后調上豬油(you)(白油(you))、大油(you)辣椒(紅油(you))、清油(you)辣椒、鹽(yan)(yan)、醋(cu)、蘸一(yi)(yi)(yi)點花(hua)椒面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),撒(sa)一(yi)(yi)(yi)捏(nie)蔥花(hua)或韭(jiu)菜花(hua),便可(ke)食用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)了(le)。
吃踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)時豬(zhu)油必(bi)不可少(shao),蕎面(mian)調上(shang)豬(zhu)油,才軟(ruan)和好吃。外地人一是嫌蕎面(mian)看起來黑(hei),其貌不揚;二是怕不熟;三是對紅油辣(la)椒(jiao)望而(er)生畏,但若(ruo)吃上(shang)一碗,便覺味美可口,咬到(dao)嘴里(li)筋,吃到(dao)肚里(li)香(xiang),方知合(he)陽人為(wei)什么對踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)感情極深。合(he)陽人不分男女老少(shao),都喜食踅(xue)(xue)面(mian),上(shang)會趕(gan)集,少(shao)不了兩碗踅(xue)(xue)面(mian),一個個吃得滿嘴紅油,即使是穿著入時的(de)大姑娘小媳婦也絲毫不覺難為(wei)情,反而(er)卻覺得這才吃出味兒來了。逢到(dao)過春(chun)節,許(xu)多家都是專門(men)訂做幾十斤,準(zhun)備好紅油辣(la)椒(jiao),以便招待親朋(peng)好友;碰(peng)到(dao)接待外地來客,踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)更是飯桌上(shang)必(bi)不可少(shao)的(de)保留節目。
制(zhi)(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)好的踅面(mian)好比(bi)方便(bian)面(mian)。吃(chi)時在(zai)開(kai)水鍋(guo)浸泡兩分鐘,撈出(chu),放(fang)(fang)進(jin)碗里,加少許粉(fen)魚(yu),調(diao)鹽、醋、蔥花、花椒(jiao)(jiao)面(mian),再淋上辣(la)椒(jiao)(jiao)油及熟豬油即(ji)成(cheng)。粉(fen)魚(yu)講究用(yong)綠(lv)豆粉(fen)制(zhi)(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),這(zhe)是最好的。用(yong)小麥面(mian)、玉米面(mian)也行。但(dan)通(tong)常多(duo)(duo)用(yong)紅薯(shu)面(mian)制(zhi)(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)粉(fen)魚(yu)。合(he)陽盛(sheng)產優質紅薯(shu),干(gan)甜(tian)適口,制(zhi)(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)粉(fen)魚(yu)也不錯。合(he)陽人吃(chi)踅面(mian),喜歡多(duo)(duo)放(fang)(fang)辣(la)椒(jiao)(jiao)油和豬油,這(zhe)樣,吃(chi)起(qi)來,又(you)綿,又(you)潤,又(you)辣(la),香味(wei)濃(nong)烈,頗覺過癮。也可以伴著(zhu)喝一(yi)碗粉(fen)魚(yu)湯。有(you)干(gan)有(you)稀,符合(he)衛生營養要求。而且蕎麥又(you)有(you)清熱利(li)尿(niao)之(zhi)功效,當地群(qun)眾(zhong)在(zai)原來簡(jian)單食用(yong)的基礎上也進(jin)行了一(yi)些(xie)改進(jin),把大(da)餅切成(cheng)細條,吃(chi)時在(zai)鍋(guo)里稍煮,撈出(chu)來加上調(diao)料,更加好吃(chi)。
在(zai)合陽各地都可以吃到踅(xue)面(mian)(mian),坊鎮(zhen)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)被稱為正宗,高(gao)手輩出,每逢集(ji)日,數十家踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)各呈民彩。近半個世紀來(lai)則(ze)以田茂林的踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)最為出名。
炒踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)更是(shi)做為一(yi)盤(pan)美(mei)味(wei)菜(cai)肴出現在豪華酒店的菜(cai)譜里(li)。東門(men)大酒店張(zhang)師傅做的炒踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)五彩斑斕,酥潤可口(kou),韻味(wei)悠長(chang),嚼到嘴(zui)里(li)筋,咽到肚里(li)香。“長(chang)壽(shou)菜(cai)”——炒踅(xue)(xue)面(mian):龜(gui)壽(shou)延年(nian)(老人過(guo)(guo)壽(shou)時(shi),一(yi)只(zhi)千年(nian)壽(shou)龜(gui)栩栩如(ru)生(sheng)昂首在你的面(mian)前(qian));富貴滿(man)園(yuan)(中(zhong)年(nian)人過(guo)(guo)生(sheng)日(ri)時(shi),一(yi)朵牡丹花(hua)盛開在你的生(sheng)命里(li));太(tai)陽花(hua)開(孩子過(guo)(guo)生(sheng)日(ri)時(shi),一(yi)朵太(tai)陽花(hua)燦(can)爛在你的心田)。
炒(chao)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)做(zuo)法很簡單。用料:干散(san)的踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)、雞(ji)蛋、辣椒、卷心菜、西紅柿(shi)等蔬(shu)菜。把(ba)熟油熱(re)至4、5成,先倒(dao)入(ru)蔥姜蒜爆炒(chao),再放入(ru)花椒面(mian)(mian)、辣椒面(mian)(mian),接著放入(ru)黃豆(dou)芽、紅、綠辣椒絲炒(chao)至7、8成,最后(hou)倒(dao)入(ru)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian),加高湯翻炒(chao)裝盤(pan)。
踅(xue)面一年四季都能進食,“夏(xia)吃(chi)解乏困,冬食驅冷寒”,蕎(qiao)面能消暑利尿,有解乏除濕的藥(yao)效,常(chang)吃(chi)可以降血(xue)脂,平血(xue)壓(ya),治便(bian)秘,調胃潤腸(chang),既治病,又保(bao)健,可謂是“長(chang)壽面”。隨著人們對蕎(qiao)麥天然保(bao)健作用的認識(shi),踅(xue)面必將風靡(mi)全國,走向世界。
踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)是家(jia)鄉(xiang)的(de)(de)(de)味道,是家(jia)鄉(xiang)人兒(er)時的(de)(de)(de)“情結”。猶記(ji)(ji)(ji)兒(er)時跟隨父(fu)(fu)母(mu)(mu)去(qu)趕(gan)集的(de)(de)(de)情景(jing),口(kou)饞,總想吃(chi)點什么(me)(me),父(fu)(fu)母(mu)(mu)便(bian)帶我們姐弟踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)過(guo)(guo)(guo)來(lai),踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)過(guo)(guo)(guo)去(qu),最(zui)終還是停到(dao)最(zui)便(bian)宜的(de)(de)(de)“踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)”攤前一(yi)飽(bao)口(kou)福。農民的(de)(de)(de)父(fu)(fu)母(mu)(mu)親(qin)窮(qiong)啊,買不起時更多的(de)(de)(de)時候許(xu)諾下次趕(gan)集時讓吃(chi)碗踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)——兒(er)時的(de)(de)(de)“奢侈飯(fan)(fan)”,因此長(chang)大了,有錢了,可還是惦記(ji)(ji)(ji)兒(er)時的(de)(de)(de)“踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)”,就是走(zou)出去(qu)多少(shao)年,走(zou)出去(qu)多么(me)(me)遠,仍然惦記(ji)(ji)(ji)。它已(yi)經深(shen)深(shen)地(di)在家(jia)鄉(xiang)人的(de)(de)(de)心里扎(zha)了根,讓在外的(de)(de)(de)游子也魂牽夢縈。走(zou),咥踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)哈。離家(jia)的(de)(de)(de)游子或者在外打工的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)旦回家(jia),路(lu)過(guo)(guo)(guo)街上先找一(yi)家(jia)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)店,咥兩碗家(jia)鄉(xiang)的(de)(de)(de)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian),飽(bao)餐一(yi)頓(dun)。平(ping)日(ri)里和同事們出去(qu)吃(chi)飯(fan)(fan),也常常以(yi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)為首選,有時候即使一(yi)塊兒(er)享用(yong)其他(ta)飯(fan)(fan)食(shi),當中有人必(bi)嘆:哎呀!好些日(ri)子都沒有吃(chi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)了。
踅面好(hao),好(hao)踅面。到了(le)合(he)陽(yang)吃踅面。你一(yi)碗,我一(yi)碗,吃到肚子(zi)真真餡……街頭巷(xiang)尾《踅面香香》的童謠(yao)時時在耳邊響起……