說起來(lai),這個(ge)(ge)“踅”字(zi)也(ye)是(shi)有一(yi)段(duan)故事的(de)(de),“踅”字(zi)本身是(shi)個(ge)(ge)冷僻(pi)字(zi),清代合陽(yang)有人(ren)編(bian)了一(yi)本《土音(yin)雜字(zi)》,出于好心,找了一(yi)個(ge)(ge)古(gu)音(yin)又(you)讀“xué”的(de)(de)“頁”字(zi)來(lai)為“踅”字(zi)注音(yin)。但不(bu)想知知道這個(ge)(ge)古(gu)音(yin)的(de)(de)人(ren)實在太少(shao)了,結果弄巧成拙,大(da)家(jia)都按(an)本音(yin)讀“yè”,而(er)沒有人(ren)讀“踅xué”,外地人(ren)到合陽(yang)更是(shi)按(an)字(zi)讀音(yin),這樣(yang)一(yi)來(lai),便把“踅面”弄成“頁面”了,實在是(shi)一(yi)大(da)誤會(hui)。
踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)原產地在(zai)(zai)合(he)陽,相(xiang)傳西漢高(gao)祖三(san)(san)年(nian),也(ye)就(jiu)(jiu)是(shi)(shi)公元前204年(nian),淮陰(yin)候(hou)韓(han)信(xin)在(zai)(zai)合(he)陽黃(huang)河(he)邊的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)夏陽渡(du)用(yong)木(mu)罌(ying)渡(du)軍(jun)(jun)活捉河(he)東魏王豹,為(wei)了(le)(le)解決10萬大(da)軍(jun)(jun)吃飯(fan)問題發(fa)明(ming)(ming)了(le)(le)踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),距今已有(you)(you)2200多年(nian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)歷(li)史。吃著(zhu)踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),再(zai)想想這(zhe)個關(guan)(guan)于(yu)踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)起(qi)源(yuan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)典(dian)故,就(jiu)(jiu)知道當(dang)年(nian)韓(han)信(xin)怎么(me)發(fa)明(ming)(ming)出(chu)踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作為(wei)行軍(jun)(jun)打仗(zhang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)飯(fan)食(shi)。一(yi)(yi)是(shi)(shi)踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)勁(jing)道。厚且筋大(da),吃在(zai)(zai)嘴里(li)耐(nai)嚼,咽(yan)在(zai)(zai)肚里(li)耐(nai)饑。二是(shi)(shi)味醇。吃踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時除(chu)了(le)(le)鹽(yan)、味精等其(qi)它常用(yong)調料外(wai),要拌以豬油(you)和(he)辣(la)子(zi),所以吃起(qi)來(lai)油(you)香濃郁,辣(la)味悠長,兩者都(dou)能(neng)增進食(shi)欲。三(san)(san)是(shi)(shi)方(fang)便。這(zhe)與踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)做工有(you)(you)關(guan)(guan),我曾見過做踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)過程,先是(shi)(shi)和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),在(zai)(zai)一(yi)(yi)個很大(da)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)瓷盆里(li)倒(dao)進面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉和(he)適量水,用(yong)一(yi)(yi)根粗木(mu)棒順著(zhu)同一(yi)(yi)方(fang)向攪,攪得稀稠勻當(dang)了(le)(le),舀一(yi)(yi)勺子(zi)倒(dao)在(zai)(zai)一(yi)(yi)張(zhang)直徑差不多有(you)(you)2尺多的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)大(da)鐵鏊(ao)中心(xin),再(zai)用(yong)半(ban)(ban)月形的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)木(mu)踅(xue)(xue)子(zi)從鏊(ao)心(xin)向四周一(yi)(yi)圈一(yi)(yi)圈旋(xuan)著(zhu)刮(gua)開(kai)攤(tan)平。據說踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)名(ming)子(zi)就(jiu)(jiu)是(shi)(shi)由那(nei)個半(ban)(ban)月形的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)木(mu)踅(xue)(xue)子(zi)而得的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)。但街上也(ye)有(you)(you)把(ba)“踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”寫作“旋(xuan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de),想必也(ye)與一(yi)(yi)圈一(yi)(yi)圈地旋(xuan)著(zhu)刮(gua)攤(tan)有(you)(you)關(guan)(guan)。烙熟(shu)后一(yi)(yi)張(zhang)張(zhang)搭(da)在(zai)(zai)外(wai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)涼(liang)冷(leng),再(zai)切成(cheng)寬窄與薄厚相(xiang)當(dang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)條(tiao)形,碼得整整齊齊,這(zhe)樣能(neng)保質三(san)(san)、五天,吃時只需在(zai)(zai)開(kai)水鍋里(li)滾一(yi)(yi)下即可。相(xiang)對于(yu)其(qi)他(ta)飯(fan)食(shi),踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)三(san)(san)個特點都(dou)更有(you)(you)利于(yu)行軍(jun)(jun)打仗(zhang),漢高(gao)祖能(neng)穩坐天下,其(qi)中也(ye)有(you)(you)踅(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)份功勞。
如今,社會(hui)發展了(le),人(ren)們(men)(men)生(sheng)活水平(ping)提高(gao)了(le),吃(chi)(chi)(chi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)也(ye)稍有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)講究了(le)。踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)都在(zai)小(xiao)飯(fan)館里(li)賣(mai),且(qie)大多(duo)同(tong)時(shi)經營面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)皮、米線等其(qi)他小(xiao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi),也(ye)不(bu)再(zai)現場直播,而(er)是(shi)(shi)前堂用(yong)(yong)(yong)餐(can)(can),后面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)都隔了(le)操作間。桌凳也(ye)換(huan)成(cheng)了(le)青一(yi)(yi)色的(de)專用(yong)(yong)(yong)于餐(can)(can)館的(de)高(gao)桌、高(gao)凳。人(ren)們(men)(men)也(ye)更不(bu)用(yong)(yong)(yong)象行(xing)軍(jun)打仗那樣,在(zai)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)飯(fan)上計較時(shi)間長(chang)短,何況(kuang)超市里(li)各(ge)(ge)種各(ge)(ge)樣的(de)方便(bian)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)讓人(ren)能挑(tiao)花眼。但踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)仍然(ran)受(shou)人(ren)青睞。自己沒有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)在(zai)合陽呆過(guo),不(bu)知踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)故鄉合陽人(ren)是(shi)(shi)不(bu)是(shi)(shi)非常(chang)愛(ai)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。而(er)在(zai)華(hua)(hua)陰(yin),我(wo)所熟知的(de)人(ren)沒有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)不(bu)喜歡(huan)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)餐(can)(can)時(shi)分,隨便(bian)走進哪個踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)館,都幾乎(hu)座無虛(xu)席,食(shi)(shi)者無論男婦老(lao)幼,不(bu)分尊卑貴賤。不(bu)僅(jin)小(xiao)攤小(xiao)店里(li)有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you),星(xing)級(ji)賓館飯(fan)店里(li)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)也(ye)是(shi)(shi)食(shi)(shi)譜里(li)小(xiao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)的(de)代表品類(lei),每宴賓客,華(hua)(hua)陰(yin)人(ren)必以踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)為(wei)特色小(xiao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)待之。不(bu)僅(jin)如此(ci),我(wo)還聽(ting)說一(yi)(yi)些遠(yuan)離家鄉在(zai)外(wai)地干事(shi)的(de)華(hua)(hua)陰(yin)人(ren)一(yi)(yi)旦回澄,顧不(bu)上奔(ben)家里(li),先要(yao)到(dao)街(jie)上找一(yi)(yi)家踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)館,飽餐(can)(can)一(yi)(yi)頓久違的(de)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),平(ping)日里(li)和(he)同(tong)事(shi)們(men)(men)出(chu)去吃(chi)(chi)(chi)飯(fan),他們(men)(men)也(ye)常(chang)常(chang)以踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)為(wei)首選,有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)時(shi)候即使一(yi)(yi)塊兒享用(yong)(yong)(yong)其(qi)他飯(fan)食(shi)(shi),當(dang)中必有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)人(ren)嘆曰(yue):哎呀(ya)!好些日子都沒有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)了(le)。每當(dang)這個時(shi)候,我(wo)就想,踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)雖生(sheng)在(zai)合陽,但也(ye)在(zai)華(hua)(hua)陰(yin)扎(zha)了(le)根(gen),而(er)且(qie)這根(gen)扎(zha)在(zai)了(le)華(hua)(hua)陰(yin)人(ren)的(de)心里(li),讓在(zai)外(wai)的(de)游子魂牽夢縈,讓幾乎(hu)所有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)的(de)華(hua)(hua)陰(yin)人(ren)都有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)個共同(tong)的(de)飲(yin)食(shi)(shi)愛(ai)好,在(zai)華(hua)(hua)陰(yin)若(ruo)要(yao)論起飲(yin)食(shi)(shi)文化來,我(wo)看華(hua)(hua)陰(yin)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)當(dang)是(shi)(shi)首選的(de)飯(fan)食(shi)(shi)之一(yi)(yi)。
踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)用蕎面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)做成,分為磨(mo)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、攤(tan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、切(qie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、下(xia)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)五(wu)道(dao)工(gong)序(xu)。首先把蕎麥(mai)揀凈淘(tao)好(hao)(hao),磨(mo)成細面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時要用能裝四(si)(si)五(wu)十斤(jin)的(de)(de)(de)(de)大瓷盆,在(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)里(li)(li)添上(shang)水(shui),用一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)根粗(cu)木(mu)棒(bang)順同(tong)(tong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)方向攪(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)拌,這是(shi)關鍵(jian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)環(huan),必須(xu)稀稠得當,攪(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)拌均勻。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)糊(hu)和(he)得好(hao)(hao),攤(tan)出的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)才能好(hao)(hao)。陜(shan)西人(ren)做面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)講(jiang)究自己(ji)動手,去市場里(li)(li)買壓好(hao)(hao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)是(shi)會給(gei)鄙視的(de)(de)(de)(de),所以壓面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)機在(zai)陜(shan)西一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)直(zhi)銷量有(you)限,賣踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)人(ren)講(jiang)究自已動手,把蕎麥(mai)揀凈淘(tao)好(hao)(hao),磨(mo)成細面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時要用能裝四(si)(si)五(wu)十斤(jin)的(de)(de)(de)(de)大瓷盆,在(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)里(li)(li)添上(shang)水(shui),用一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)根粗(cu)木(mu)棒(bang)順同(tong)(tong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)方向攪(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)拌,這是(shi)關鍵(jian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)環(huan),必須(xu)稀稠得當,攪(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)拌均勻。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)糊(hu)和(he)得好(hao)(hao),攤(tan)出的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)更好(hao)(hao)。攤(tan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)用的(de)(de)(de)(de)是(shi)物(wu)制的(de)(de)(de)(de)鐵鏊(ao),重達40余斤(jin),直(zhi)徑二尺多。舀(yao)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)勺和(he)好(hao)(hao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)糊(hu)倒在(zai)鏊(ao)中(zhong)心,用半月(yue)形的(de)(de)(de)(de)木(mu)踅子劃開攤(tan)平,據說“踅面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”即由此得名。稍頃,待(dai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)受火(huo)變(bian)硬翻過來烘烤另一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),烙到七八成熟(shu),疊(die)在(zai)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)起,折成四(si)(si)折,用刀切(qie)成細絲(si),講(jiang)究切(qie)成的(de)(de)(de)(de)寬(kuan)窄和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)餅薄厚一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)樣,四(si)(si)棱見線,才顯功(gong)夫。切(qie)好(hao)(hao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)碼在(zai)木(mu)箱在(zai)里(li)(li)備用。吃時把水(shui)燒開,再(zai)(zai)(zai)放少許鹽,以防(fang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)入(ru)鍋中(zhong)變(bian)粘。抓一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)把切(qie)好(hao)(hao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)投入(ru)鍋中(zhong),用筷子須(xu)鍋一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)攪(jiao)(jiao)(jiao),便可撈起。外地人(ren)見狀總懷疑這面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)否變(bian)熟(shu),其(qi)實完全(quan)不用擔心,因為在(zai)鏊(ao)上(shang)已烙至七八成,再(zai)(zai)(zai)在(zai)沸(fei)湯中(zhong)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)燙,便完全(quan)熟(shu)了。或(huo)干撈,或(huo)帶湯,悉(xi)聽尊便,須(xu)手再(zai)(zai)(zai)用笊籬撈一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)些魚(yu)兒粉(fen),然后(hou)調(diao)上(shang)豬(zhu)油(you)(白油(you))、大油(you)辣(la)椒(紅油(you))、清油(you)辣(la)椒、鹽、醋、蘸一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)點花(hua)椒面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),撒一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)捏蔥花(hua)或(huo)韭(jiu)菜花(hua),便可食用了。
吃踅面(mian)時(shi)豬油(you)(you)必(bi)不(bu)(bu)(bu)可少(shao),蕎(qiao)面(mian)調上豬油(you)(you),才軟和好(hao)吃。外地人(ren)(ren)一是(shi)嫌蕎(qiao)面(mian)看起來(lai)黑,其貌不(bu)(bu)(bu)揚;二是(shi)怕不(bu)(bu)(bu)熟;三是(shi)對(dui)紅(hong)油(you)(you)辣(la)椒(jiao)(jiao)望而(er)生畏(wei),但(dan)若吃上一碗,便(bian)覺(jue)味美可口(kou),咬到嘴(zui)里筋,吃到肚(du)里香,方知合陽人(ren)(ren)為(wei)什么對(dui)踅面(mian)感情(qing)極深(shen)。合陽人(ren)(ren)不(bu)(bu)(bu)分男女老(lao)少(shao),都(dou)喜食踅面(mian),上會趕集,少(shao)不(bu)(bu)(bu)了兩(liang)碗踅面(mian),一個個吃得滿嘴(zui)紅(hong)油(you)(you),即(ji)使(shi)是(shi)穿(chuan)著(zhu)入(ru)時(shi)的大(da)姑娘小(xiao)媳婦也絲毫(hao)不(bu)(bu)(bu)覺(jue)難為(wei)情(qing),反而(er)卻覺(jue)得這才吃出味兒來(lai)了。逢到過春節(jie),許(xu)多家都(dou)是(shi)專門訂做幾(ji)十(shi)斤,準備(bei)好(hao)紅(hong)油(you)(you)辣(la)椒(jiao)(jiao),以(yi)便(bian)招待親朋好(hao)友;碰到接待外地來(lai)客(ke),踅面(mian)更是(shi)飯(fan)桌上必(bi)不(bu)(bu)(bu)可少(shao)的保留節(jie)目。
制(zhi)(zhi)作(zuo)好的踅面(mian)好比方便面(mian)。吃(chi)(chi)時在開水鍋(guo)浸泡兩分鐘,撈(lao)出,放(fang)(fang)進(jin)(jin)碗(wan)(wan)里,加(jia)少許(xu)粉(fen)(fen)魚(yu)(yu),調鹽、醋、蔥花、花椒面(mian),再(zai)淋上辣椒油(you)(you)及熟豬油(you)(you)即成。粉(fen)(fen)魚(yu)(yu)講究用綠(lv)豆粉(fen)(fen)制(zhi)(zhi)作(zuo),這(zhe)(zhe)是最好的。用小麥(mai)面(mian)、玉米(mi)面(mian)也行。但通常多(duo)用紅薯面(mian)制(zhi)(zhi)作(zuo)粉(fen)(fen)魚(yu)(yu)。合陽盛產優質紅薯,干甜適口,制(zhi)(zhi)作(zuo)粉(fen)(fen)魚(yu)(yu)也不(bu)錯(cuo)。合陽人(ren)吃(chi)(chi)踅面(mian),喜歡多(duo)放(fang)(fang)辣椒油(you)(you)和豬油(you)(you),這(zhe)(zhe)樣,吃(chi)(chi)起來,又綿,又潤,又辣,香味濃烈,頗覺過癮。也可以伴著喝一碗(wan)(wan)粉(fen)(fen)魚(yu)(yu)湯。有干有稀,符(fu)合衛生營養要求。而(er)且蕎麥(mai)又有清熱利(li)尿之(zhi)功(gong)效,當地群眾在原來簡單食(shi)用的基礎上也進(jin)(jin)行了(le)一些改進(jin)(jin),把(ba)大餅切成細條,吃(chi)(chi)時在鍋(guo)里稍煮,撈(lao)出來加(jia)上調料,更加(jia)好吃(chi)(chi)。
在合陽(yang)各地都可以吃到踅(xue)面(mian),坊鎮(zhen)踅(xue)面(mian)被稱為正宗(zong),高(gao)手輩出(chu)(chu),每逢(feng)集日,數十家踅(xue)面(mian)各呈(cheng)民彩。近半個世紀(ji)來則以田茂(mao)林的踅(xue)面(mian)最(zui)為出(chu)(chu)名。
炒(chao)踅面更是做(zuo)為(wei)一(yi)(yi)(yi)盤(pan)美味菜肴出現(xian)在(zai)(zai)豪華酒(jiu)店(dian)的(de)菜譜里(li)。東(dong)門(men)大酒(jiu)店(dian)張(zhang)師傅做(zuo)的(de)炒(chao)踅面五彩斑斕,酥潤可(ke)口(kou),韻味悠長(chang),嚼到嘴(zui)里(li)筋,咽到肚里(li)香。“長(chang)壽菜”——炒(chao)踅面:龜(gui)壽延年(老人過壽時,一(yi)(yi)(yi)只(zhi)千(qian)年壽龜(gui)栩栩如生昂首在(zai)(zai)你(ni)的(de)面前);富貴滿園(yuan)(中年人過生日時,一(yi)(yi)(yi)朵牡丹花(hua)盛開在(zai)(zai)你(ni)的(de)生命里(li));太陽(yang)花(hua)開(孩子(zi)過生日時,一(yi)(yi)(yi)朵太陽(yang)花(hua)燦(can)爛在(zai)(zai)你(ni)的(de)心田)。
炒(chao)(chao)(chao)踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)做法(fa)很簡(jian)單。用料(liao):干散(san)的踅(xue)面(mian)(mian)、雞蛋、辣(la)椒、卷(juan)心菜、西紅柿等蔬菜。把熟油熱至(zhi)4、5成(cheng),先倒(dao)(dao)入蔥姜蒜爆炒(chao)(chao)(chao),再放(fang)入花椒面(mian)(mian)、辣(la)椒面(mian)(mian),接著放(fang)入黃豆(dou)芽(ya)、紅、綠辣(la)椒絲(si)炒(chao)(chao)(chao)至(zhi)7、8成(cheng),最后倒(dao)(dao)入踅(xue)面(mian)(mian),加(jia)高湯翻(fan)炒(chao)(chao)(chao)裝盤。
踅面(mian)一年四季(ji)都(dou)能(neng)(neng)進食,“夏吃(chi)解(jie)乏困,冬食驅冷寒(han)”,蕎(qiao)面(mian)能(neng)(neng)消(xiao)暑利尿,有解(jie)乏除濕的藥效,常吃(chi)可(ke)以降血(xue)脂,平(ping)血(xue)壓,治便(bian)秘,調胃潤腸,既治病,又保健(jian),可(ke)謂是“長壽(shou)面(mian)”。隨著人們對蕎(qiao)麥天然(ran)保健(jian)作用的認識,踅面(mian)必(bi)將風靡(mi)全國,走向世界(jie)。
踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)家(jia)(jia)鄉(xiang)的味(wei)道(dao),是(shi)家(jia)(jia)鄉(xiang)人兒(er)時(shi)的“情(qing)結”。猶記(ji)兒(er)時(shi)跟隨父(fu)(fu)母(mu)去(qu)趕集的情(qing)景,口(kou)饞,總想(xiang)吃(chi)點什么(me)(me),父(fu)(fu)母(mu)便帶我們(men)姐弟踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)過來(lai),踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)過去(qu),最(zui)終還是(shi)停到最(zui)便宜的“踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”攤前一(yi)飽口(kou)福。農民的父(fu)(fu)母(mu)親窮啊(a),買不起(qi)時(shi)更多(duo)的時(shi)候(hou)許諾下(xia)次趕集時(shi)讓吃(chi)碗踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)——兒(er)時(shi)的“奢侈飯(fan)(fan)”,因此長大了(le),有錢了(le),可還是(shi)惦記(ji)兒(er)時(shi)的“踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”,就(jiu)是(shi)走(zou)出(chu)去(qu)多(duo)少年,走(zou)出(chu)去(qu)多(duo)么(me)(me)遠,仍然惦記(ji)。它已(yi)經深深地在(zai)(zai)家(jia)(jia)鄉(xiang)人的心(xin)里(li)扎了(le)根,讓在(zai)(zai)外的游子(zi)也魂(hun)牽夢縈。走(zou),咥(xi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)哈。離(li)家(jia)(jia)的游子(zi)或者在(zai)(zai)外打工的一(yi)旦(dan)回家(jia)(jia),路過街(jie)上先找(zhao)一(yi)家(jia)(jia)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)店,咥(xi)兩(liang)碗家(jia)(jia)鄉(xiang)的踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),飽餐一(yi)頓。平日里(li)和同事們(men)出(chu)去(qu)吃(chi)飯(fan)(fan),也常常以(yi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)為首選,有時(shi)候(hou)即使一(yi)塊兒(er)享(xiang)用其他(ta)飯(fan)(fan)食(shi),當中有人必嘆:哎呀!好些(xie)日子(zi)都沒有吃(chi)踅(xue)(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)了(le)。
踅面好(hao),好(hao)踅面。到(dao)(dao)了合陽吃踅面。你一碗,我一碗,吃到(dao)(dao)肚子真(zhen)真(zhen)餡……街頭巷尾《踅面香(xiang)香(xiang)》的(de)童謠時(shi)時(shi)在耳邊響(xiang)起……