海派飲食形成的背景
顧名思(si)義,海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)派(pai)即(ji)為“海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)納(na)百川,兼容(rong)并(bing)蓄(xu)”。而(er)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)派(pai)文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)化(hua)(hua)是(shi)基(ji)(ji)于(yu)中(zhong)華傳統文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)化(hua)(hua)基(ji)(ji)礎(chu)上(shang)(shang),又融入了(le)(le)一(yi)些(xie)西方(fang)的(de)(de)(de)文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)化(hua)(hua),經過了(le)(le)相(xiang)當長(chang)時(shi)間的(de)(de)(de)吸收消化(hua)(hua)而(er)形(xing)成的(de)(de)(de)富有自己鮮明特點的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)種文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)化(hua)(hua)。海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)派(pai)文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)化(hua)(hua)包括了(le)(le)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)派(pai)建(jian)筑文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)化(hua)(hua)、海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)派(pai)京劇文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)化(hua)(hua)、海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)派(pai)飲(yin)(yin)(yin)食(shi)文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)化(hua)(hua)等(deng)等(deng)。雖然上(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)的(de)(de)(de)飲(yin)(yin)(yin)食(shi)文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)化(hua)(hua)并(bing)不完全等(deng)于(yu)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)派(pai)飲(yin)(yin)(yin)食(shi)文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)化(hua)(hua),但(dan)是(shi)上(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)飲(yin)(yin)(yin)食(shi)卻是(shi)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)派(pai)飲(yin)(yin)(yin)食(shi)最重要的(de)(de)(de)組成部分。海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)派(pai)文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)化(hua)(hua)的(de)(de)(de)形(xing)成是(shi)被鴉片(pian)戰(zhan)(zhan)爭(zheng)促(cu)使的(de)(de)(de),在鴉片(pian)戰(zhan)(zhan)爭(zheng)期間,“上(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)作(zuo)為五個通商口岸之一(yi),洋貨、洋人、洋思(si)想、洋經濟長(chang)驅直入,隨之而(er)來的(de)(de)(de)就是(shi)上(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)的(de)(de)(de)租(zu)借(jie)(jie)”。由于(yu)租(zu)借(jie)(jie)的(de)(de)(de)物質文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)明和精神文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)明明顯的(de)(de)(de)高于(yu)當時(shi)的(de)(de)(de)上(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai),這就激發了(le)(le)上(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)人拋下(xia)落(luo)后的(de)(de)(de)思(si)想,積極地像(xiang)西方(fang)人學習。不但(dan)如此,由于(yu)政局(ju)的(de)(de)(de)不穩定(ding)性,人口流動性大,全國各(ge)地的(de)(de)(de)人,特別是(shi)蘇、浙、粵等(deng)戶籍(ji)的(de)(de)(de)人都(dou)紛(fen)紛(fen)來到(dao)了(le)(le)上(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai),這就使上(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)短時(shi)期內(nei)接觸到(dao)了(le)(le)各(ge)種各(ge)樣的(de)(de)(de)不同的(de)(de)(de)文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)化(hua)(hua)習俗,這為海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)派(pai)飲(yin)(yin)(yin)食(shi)文(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)(wen)化(hua)(hua)的(de)(de)(de)形(xing)成打下(xia)了(le)(le)基(ji)(ji)礎(chu)。
海派飲食的特點
眾所周知,“民以食(shi)為天”是中國(guo)(guo)人(ren)的(de)一句古話(hua),著名作家(jia)梁實(shi)秋,搜(sou)盡覓全中國(guo)(guo)大江南(nan)北的(de)美味(wei)佳肴(yao)著成了(le)(le)《雅(ya)舍談吃(chi)》,在此書中,他(ta)不僅是談吃(chi)喝,其實(shi)更是談出了(le)(le)他(ta)的(de)一種社會(hui)心態,一種處世哲學,一種審美趣(qu)味(wei)或人(ren)生(sheng)追求。從上面的(de)事實(shi)中,我們(men)可以看出飲食(shi)從古代就一直被中國(guo)(guo)人(ren)所推崇,并與之結(jie)合到了(le)(le)精神層面。
上(shang)海作為中國(guo)的(de)(de)(de)一個重(zhong)要的(de)(de)(de)城市,近(jin)代時是以(yi)“本幫(bang)菜(cai)”出名的(de)(de)(de)。“本幫(bang)菜(cai)”是以(yi)濃油(you)赤醬、咸淡適中、保持(chi)原(yuan)味、醇厚(hou)鮮美為其特色(se),常(chang)用(yong)的(de)(de)(de)烹調方法以(yi)紅燒、煨、糖為主。家常(chang)、平民化(hua)都(dou)是本幫(bang)菜(cai)的(de)(de)(de)特色(se)。禿肺、圈(quan)子(zi)、腌篤鮮、黃豆(dou)湯等這些(xie)普(pu)通、廉價(jia)的(de)(de)(de)原(yuan)料都(dou)是本幫(bang)菜(cai)的(de)(de)(de)生力軍(jun),這些(xie)都(dou)是在海派(pai)飲食(shi)(shi)之前,上(shang)海飲食(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)(de)特點。當(dang)海派(pai)飲食(shi)(shi)在海派(pai)文(wen)化(hua)影響(xiang)下(xia)發展起來時,蘇、錫、寧、徽等16個地方的(de)(de)(de)風味被吸收到海派(pai)飲食(shi)(shi)中,菜(cai)肴(yao)就逐漸由原(yuan)來的(de)(de)(de)重(zhong)油(you)赤醬趨向淡雅爽口,并形成了海派(pai)飲食(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)(de)特色(se)。
由于(yu)受海(hai)(hai)派(pai)文化的(de)(de)影響,海(hai)(hai)派(pai)飲(yin)食(shi)的(de)(de)第一(yi)個(ge)特點就(jiu)是(shi)包容性與(yu)適應性,打個(ge)比(bi)方,如果說其他飲(yin)食(shi)文化如川菜(cai)(cai)是(shi)固執的(de)(de)老頭子,那么上(shang)海(hai)(hai)飲(yin)食(shi)就(jiu)是(shi)個(ge)能屈能伸的(de)(de)大丈(zhang)夫,而(er)這(zhe)也是(shi)移民城(cheng)市(shi)的(de)(de)特點。可以說,只要(yao)可以適應上(shang)海(hai)(hai)人(ren)的(de)(de)口(kou)味(wei)的(de)(de)菜(cai)(cai),基本上(shang)都(dou)可以被(bei)上(shang)海(hai)(hai)人(ren)所接(jie)受。其實,這(zhe)也是(shi)上(shang)海(hai)(hai)經濟可以發(fa)展得如此(ci)之(zhi)快(kuai)的(de)(de)一(yi)個(ge)原因(yin),海(hai)(hai)納百川方能接(jie)觸(chu)到最先(xian)進的(de)(de)技術(shu)和最新(xin)信息。海(hai)(hai)派(pai)飲(yin)食(shi)的(de)(de)第二個(ge)特點是(shi)精(jing)(jing)細(xi)。同北方大盤(pan)(pan)大盤(pan)(pan)的(de)(de)菜(cai)(cai)肉(rou)相比(bi),上(shang)海(hai)(hai)一(yi)盤(pan)(pan)的(de)(de)量堪稱(cheng)袖珍,濃縮的(de)(de)就(jiu)是(shi)精(jing)(jing)華,海(hai)(hai)派(pai)飲(yin)食(shi)將這(zhe)一(yi)俗(su)語演繹得淋漓盡致。如上(shang)海(hai)(hai)菜(cai)(cai)的(de)(de)“紅燒魚”,利用(yong)(yong)其富(fu)含的(de)(de)明膠(jiao)蛋白質,需小火(huo)燜燒45分鐘,使(shi)膠(jiao)質溶出,再移至(zhi)旺火(huo)入(ru)稠濃鹵汁。成菜(cai)(cai)不用(yong)(yong)一(yi)點芡粉(fen),卻濃粘(zhan)似(si)芡,入(ru)口(kou)酥糯(nuo),頗具特色。就(jiu)是(shi)這(zhe)種精(jing)(jing)細(xi)活,使(shi)上(shang)海(hai)(hai)飲(yin)食(shi)可以與(yu)川菜(cai)(cai)、粵菜(cai)(cai)相媲(pi)美。
眾所周(zhou)知(zhi),凡(fan)事(shi)都是(shi)需要創新(xin)(xin)的(de),飲(yin)食也毫不例(li)外(wai)。海(hai)派飲(yin)食的(de)第三個特點就是(shi)創新(xin)(xin),這種(zhong)創新(xin)(xin)更(geng)多(duo)的(de)是(shi)被定義為(wei)海(hai)外(wai)的(de)餐飲(yin)機制以一(yi)種(zhong)中(zhong)(zhong)國化的(de)餐飲(yin)結構方(fang)式(shi)來表達。有(you)筷子,也有(you)刀叉,有(you)西菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai),也有(you)中(zhong)(zhong)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai),更(geng)多(duo)的(de)是(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)西菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)的(de)分解,打通,融合。食客(ke)一(yi)般(ban)是(shi)說不清自己到底(di)吃的(de)是(shi)什么菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai),但就是(shi)這個菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)、這個做法、這個味道(dao)牢牢地抓住了(le)(le)顧客(ke)的(de)胃(wei)。這種(zhong)海(hai)派飲(yin)食的(de)創新(xin)(xin)顯示了(le)(le)上海(hai)人對中(zhong)(zhong)華(hua)飲(yin)食文(wen)化真(zhen)髓的(de)深刻理(li)解和(he)對各幫(bang)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)的(de)再認識,當然管理(li)理(li)念、服務程序(xu)規等也起到了(le)(le)一(yi)定的(de)作用。
上海飲食習慣
上(shang)海地處濕熱帶,氣候宜人(ren),四季常青,海岸線又長(chang),物產豐富。山珍海味、土特產應(ying)有盡有,上(shang)海人(ren)在飲食烹飪方面,根據本地區的特產和人(ren)們的口味、習慣(guan),加上(shang)博(bo)采(cai)眾長(chang),融(rong)會貫通,精于制(zhi)作,從而形成了(le)特有的海派飲食文化(hua)。
1、鮮(xian)活生猛(meng) 上海人的口(kou)味,以鮮(xian)為特(te)色(se),所選用(yong)的原料,無論是蔬菜或肉類(lei),都要求(qiu)新鮮(xian)為了迎合這種(zhong)飲食愛好(hao),肉菜市場均設有水族箱或飼養籠,將各種(zhong)魚類(lei)、禽類(lei)活養著供顧客選購,即(ji)點、即(ji)宰(zai)、即(ji)售,方便家庭。
2、夏(xia)秋清(qing)淡(dan)(dan)、冬(dong)春(chun)(chun)香濃 夏(xia)秋季(ji)節,由(you)于上海(hai)天氣(qi)(qi)炎熱(re),人(ren)們食(shi)欲(yu)不(bu)大,為增進(jin)食(shi)欲(yu),保(bao)證營養(yang),上海(hai)日常飲(yin)食(shi)以(yi)清(qing)淡(dan)(dan)、鮮爽、嫩滑等消暑祛熱(re)的(de)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)式(shi)為主(zhu),家(jia)庭(ting)(ting)一(yi)般(ban)(ban)常用(yong)瓜(gua)類制成清(qing)香可口湯(tang)、煲(bao)等菜(cai)(cai)(cai)式(shi)。夏(xia)天上海(hai)時(shi)蔬有貢菜(cai)(cai)(cai),金針菜(cai)(cai)(cai),米蓰等等,不(bu)過夏(xia)天上海(hai)人(ren)一(yi)般(ban)(ban)講究(jiu)清(qing)淡(dan)(dan),菜(cai)(cai)(cai)諸如(ru)糖(tang)拌番(fan)茄,糖(tang)拌黃瓜(gua),毛豆(dou)(dou)絲瓜(gua)就可以(yi)打發湯(tang),一(yi)般(ban)(ban)是番(fan)茄煸尖冬(dong)瓜(gua)湯(tang),要么雪菜(cai)(cai)(cai)肉(rou)絲豆(dou)(dou)腐(fu)羹。在(zai)北風凜烈、寒氣(qi)(qi)襲人(ren)的(de)冬(dong)春(chun)(chun)季(ji)節,上海(hai)的(de)家(jia)庭(ting)(ting)飲(yin)食(shi)以(yi)營養(yang)豐富(fu)、滋補暖身、 味道香濃的(de)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)式(shi)為主(zhu)。這時(shi),狗肉(rou)、羊(yang)肉(rou)、鴿、蛇等,都是家(jia)庭(ting)(ting)的(de)常用(yong)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)式(shi)。春(chun)(chun)節,現(xian)在(zai)上海(hai)人(ren)春(chun)(chun)節大多外出蹭飯,家(jia)里無非應付些春(chun)(chun)卷、湯(tang)圓之類的(de)小點心。
3、一(yi)(yi)日三餐(can)有(you)湯(tang)水 上(shang)海人在(zai)飲食方面(mian)講究營養、滋補、口(kou)感(gan)。因而在(zai)一(yi)(yi)年四季的餐(can)桌上(shang),都少不(bu)了(le)可(ke)口(kou)滋潤的湯(tang)、羹、粥品(pin)。飯前飯后一(yi)(yi)碗湯(tang),成為上(shang)海人飲食特點(dian)之一(yi)(yi)。
4、濃油赤醬與清湯(tang)掛面老上海(hai)(hai)人(ren)歡(huan)(huan)喜吃油爆蝦,新上海(hai)(hai)人(ren)歡(huan)(huan)喜咂鹽水蝦。老上海(hai)(hai)偏愛吃糖醋排骨,新上海(hai)(hai)更愛吃椒(jiao)鹽排條。老上海(hai)(hai)過(guo)節燒紅燒回魚,新上海(hai)(hai)興吃清蒸鮭(gui)魚。不過(guo)也有(you)大家(jia)都喜歡(huan)(huan)的,像咸菜毛豆,紅燒獅子頭等。
5、 清真食(shi)品隨著(zhu)城(cheng)(cheng)市的進一步(bu)開放,不只是 “新上(shang)海(hai)人” 為這個城(cheng)(cheng)市帶來了新口味(wei),就是 “老上(shang)海(hai)” 的飲(yin)食(shi)口味(wei)也(ye)(ye)在(zai)悄然變化。看(kan)看(kan) “小肥羊” 的若市門庭,清真食(shi)品也(ye)(ye)成(cheng)為上(shang)海(hai)人飲(yin)食(shi)特點之一。
上海的小吃文化
上(shang)海(hai)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)吃(chi)在南(nan)宋時即有記(ji)載,明初(chu)上(shang)海(hai)成為東南(nan)名(ming)(ming)邑,制(zhi)作漸(jian)趨精(jing)(jing)美,在清時隨著(zhu)上(shang)海(hai)商業日益繁榮,應(ying)時適(shi)(shi)令的各(ge)類米、面(mian)(mian)類小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)吃(chi)品種更為豐富。清末,上(shang)海(hai)列為對外通商口岸后(hou),相繼吸取了(le)各(ge)地(di)風(feng)味小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)吃(chi)精(jing)(jing)華,幾乎包括了(le)全國(guo)各(ge)主要(yao)地(di)方的特(te)色,并加(jia)以發展和提(ti)高(gao),形成自己的特(te)色。上(shang)海(hai)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)吃(chi)特(te)點是(shi)品種繁多,兼具南(nan)北風(feng)味;選料嚴謹,制(zhi)作精(jing)(jing)細;應(ying)節適(shi)(shi)令,因時更變(bian);供應(ying)方便靈活(huo)。著(zhu)名(ming)(ming)的上(shang)海(hai)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)吃(chi)主要(yao)有:蟹殼黃、棗(zao)泥酥餅、生(sheng)(sheng)煎饅(man)頭(tou)、蒸拌(ban)冷面(mian)(mian)、陽春面(mian)(mian)、酒釀圓子(zi)、松糕(gao)、年糕(gao)、鮮肉貓(mao)耳(er)朵、糟(zao)田螺、小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)紹興雞粥(zhou)、南(nan)翔小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)籠饅(man)頭(tou)、油氽(tun)饅(man)頭(tou)、開洋蔥油面(mian)(mian)、素菜(cai)包、擂沙圓、小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)籠生(sheng)(sheng)煎等(deng)等(deng)。
上海飲食發展
上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)菜(cai)(cai)又簡稱(cheng)海(hai)派菜(cai)(cai),它與其藝術(shu)一樣,是隨(sui)著上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)這個城(cheng)市的(de)演變(bian)而(er)發展的(de)。鴉片戰爭后的(de)“南京條(tiao)約”,使上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)成(cheng)為(wei)五口通商口岸(an)之一,西方經(jing)濟(ji)文(wen)化大(da)量輸入,各(ge)(ge)地(di)商賈文(wen)人薈集,沖(chong)擊著上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)的(de)市場與文(wen)化。上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)地(di)區(qu)的(de)飲(yin)食業伴同其文(wen)化藝術(shu),也(ye)隨(sui)之發生(sheng)了突飛猛(meng)進的(de)變(bian)化,這種已超越原來流的(de)范疇,發跡于上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai),帶著上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)這個地(di)區(qu)與時代(dai)印記,并在上(shang)(shang)(shang)派海(hai)孕育、成(cheng)長和擴散的(de)文(wen)化藝術(shu),統稱(cheng)為(wei)“海(hai)派”。海(hai)派菜(cai)(cai)就是有這樣的(de)條(tiao)件下,從全國各(ge)(ge)大(da)菜(cai)(cai)系中脫穎(ying)而(er)出的(de)。它既包括經(jing)過博(bo)采眾長的(de)本地(di)菜(cai)(cai)點(dian),又包括那些在保持(chi)原有特色基礎上(shang)(shang)(shang),根據上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)飲(yin)食習俗進行(xing)變(bian)革的(de)各(ge)(ge)種風味(wei)菜(cai)(cai)點(dian)。
1、上海本地菜(cai)的興起
上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)的(de)發展,首先是(shi)從本地(di)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)開始的(de)。據史載早(zao)(zao)在(zai)南宋(song)末(mo)年(nian)和(he)(he)元(yuan)初(chu),上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)就(jiu)有(you)(you)(you)酒(jiu)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)出(chu)現,到(dao)明末(mo)清(qing)初(chu),上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)除小(xiao)吃、便(bian)(bian)餐外(wai)筵席(xi)用菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)已十(shi)分豐盛。1 843年(nian)上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)被迫對外(wai)開埠(bu)后(hou),外(wai)國資(zi)本主義侵(qin)入也刺激了上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)民族工商業的(de)發展,上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)飲(yin)食(shi)業迅速(su)繁榮起來。全(quan)市大(da)(da)街小(xiao)巷店攤成群(qun)。據1 876年(nian)出(chu)版的(de)《滬游雜(za)記》記載,當(dang)(dang)時(shi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)從小(xiao)東(dong)門到(dao)南京路已有(you)(you)(you)上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)一(yi)(yi)二百家之多(duo)。那時(shi),上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)的(de)經(jing)(jing)營有(you)(you)(you)三種(zhong)不同類型:第(di)一(yi)(yi)種(zhong),許多(duo)中(zhong)(zhong)小(xiao)型飯(fan)(fan)店都經(jing)(jing)營經(jing)(jing)濟(ji)實(shi)(shi)惠的(de)便(bian)(bian)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)便(bian)(bian)飯(fan)(fan),同時(shi)兼營少數炒(chao)(chao)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)。如(ru)上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)早(zao)(zao)期出(chu)名的(de)大(da)(da)眾菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)炒(chao)(chao)肉百葉、咸肉豆腐、肉絲(si)黃豆湯、草魚(yu)粉皮、八寶辣醬、炒(chao)(chao)三鮮、全(quan)家福(fu)等(deng)。還有(you)(you)(you)“客飯(fan)(fan)(一(yi)(yi)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)一(yi)(yi)湯一(yi)(yi)碗飯(fan)(fan)),食(shi)者眾多(duo)。第(di)二種(zhong)是(shi)一(yi)(yi)些(xie)大(da)(da)中(zhong)(zhong)型菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan),以經(jing)(jing)營炒(chao)(chao)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)和(he)(he)“和(he)(he)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)”為(wei)主。和(he)(he)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)是(shi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)的(de)首創,它是(shi)把(ba)冷盤、熱菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)、大(da)(da)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)和(he)(he)湯配成一(yi)(yi)組供應,花樣多(duo),又比(bi)較實(shi)(shi)惠,當(dang)(dang)時(shi)十(shi)分盛行(xing)。和(he)(he)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)的(de)價格有(you)(you)(you)高(gao)有(you)(you)(you)低,最(zui)高(gao)的(de)是(shi)銀(yin)洋1 O元(yuan)的(de)和(he)(he)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai),有(you)(you)(you)八大(da)(da)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)、八小(xiao)碗、十(shi)六圍(wei)碟、四熱葷、四點心。大(da)(da)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)中(zhong)(zhong)有(you)(you)(you)排(pai)翅(chi)(chi)、燕(yan)窩、掛爐鴨、桂魚(yu)等(deng)。還有(you)(you)(you)8元(yuan)、6元(yuan)、4元(yuan)、2元(yuan)的(de),顧客可任意選(xuan)擇(ze)。第(di)三種(zhong)是(shi)一(yi)(yi)些(xie)大(da)(da)店名菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan),以經(jing)(jing)營筵席(xi)和(he)(he)高(gao)檔名菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)為(wei)主。這種(zhong)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)規(gui)模大(da)(da)、設(she)備好、餐廳(ting)高(gao)雅,如(ru)上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)最(zui)早(zao)(zao)的(de)本地(di)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)秦和(he)(he)酒(jiu)樓、鴻運樓(上(shang)(shang)(shang)圖)、大(da)(da)中(zhong)(zhong)園等(deng),當(dang)(dang)時(shi)他們經(jing)(jing)營的(de)主要名菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)中(zhong)(zhong)已經(jing)(jing)有(you)(you)(you)燒鴨、紅燒魚(yu)翅(chi)(chi)、三絲(si)魚(yu)翅(chi)(chi)、蔥油海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)參(can)、清(qing)蒸鰣魚(yu)、八寶鴨、清(qing)湯鮑魚(yu)、一(yi)(yi)品燕(yan)窩、蛤(ha)蜊(li)黃魚(yu)羹、蝦腦(nao)豆腐等(deng)等(deng)、酒(jiu)席(xi)中(zhong)(zhong)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)錯(cuo)山珍樣樣都有(you)(you)(you),還有(you)(you)(you)“魚(yu)翅(chi)(chi)席(xi)”、 “海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)參(can)席(xi)”等(deng)高(gao)貴筵席(xi)。可見(jian),上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)已經(jing)(jing)發展到(dao)較高(gao)的(de)水平。當(dang)(dang)時(shi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)的(de)主要特(te)點是(shi):取(qu)用本地(di)魚(yu)蝦和(he)(he)蔬菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)特(te)產為(wei)原料,烹調上(shang)(shang)(shang)以紅燒、蒸、煨、炸、糟、生煸見(jian)長,菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)肴(yao)濃油赤(chi)醬,量大(da)(da)質優,講(jiang)究實(shi)(shi)惠,湯鹵則醇厚不膩,咸淡適口,具有(you)(you)(you)濃厚的(de)江南水鄉風味。
3、各地(di)風(feng)味菜館在滬陸續(xu)出現
清(qing)朝后期(qi),在(zai)(zai)上(shang)海(hai)本地(di)(di)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)發展(zhan)的(de)同(tong)(tong)(tong)時(shi)(shi),各地(di)(di)飲(yin)食(shi)業經營及(ji)其廚師(shi)也紛紛來(lai)(lai)滬(hu)(hu),競相(xiang)開(kai)設(she)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(上(shang)圖(tu))。最(zui)先(xian)進(jin)入上(shang)海(hai)的(de)是開(kai)在(zai)(zai)小(xiao)東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)門的(de)安徽(hui)(hui)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan),它既(ji)經營菜(cai)(cai)(cai)肴,也兼湯(tang)面,拿手菜(cai)(cai)(cai)是炒蟮背、煨海(hai)參等(deng)(deng),兩個(ge)特別出名(ming)的(de)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)是餛飩(tun)鴨和大(da)血湯(tang),一(yi)時(shi)(shi)聞(wen)名(ming)滬(hu)(hu)上(shang)。那時(shi)(shi)主(zhu)要的(de)安徽(hui)(hui)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)有(you)(you)(you)萃樓(lou)(lou)、同(tong)(tong)(tong)慶園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)、大(da)中華(hua)等(deng)(deng)。在(zai)(zai)安徽(hui)(hui)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)進(jin)入上(shang)海(hai)的(de)同(tong)(tong)(tong)時(shi)(shi),蘇州(zhou)、無錫菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)也在(zai)(zai)上(shang)海(hai)出現,蘇州(zhou)、無錫菜(cai)(cai)(cai)均以(yi)(yi)太湖船菜(cai)(cai)(cai)著稱,由于(yu)它口味與上(shang)海(hai)相(xiang)仿(fang),加上(shang)蘇錫人在(zai)(zai)滬(hu)(hu)居(ju)多,又(you)以(yi)(yi)經營便(bian)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)便(bian)飯和河鮮魚類菜(cai)(cai)(cai)肴為(wei)(wei)主(zhu),因而(er)格(ge)外受(shou)(shou)到(dao)歡迎(ying),如創設(she)于(yu)同(tong)(tong)(tong)治(zhi)(zhi)元年的(de)同(tong)(tong)(tong)治(zhi)(zhi)老(lao)(lao)正興菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)、三興園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)、得和館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)、招商飯店以(yi)(yi)及(ji)后來(lai)(lai)的(de)東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)南鴻(hong)慶樓(lou)(lou)、大(da)加利、大(da)鴻(hong)運(yun)酒家(jia)等(deng)(deng),都(dou)很有(you)(you)(you)名(ming)。到(dao)30年代初蘇錫菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)已(yi)占上(shang)海(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)一(yi)半(ban)左右。廣東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)在(zai)(zai)咸(xian)豐(feng)年間(jian)就(jiu)有(you)(you)(you)杏花(hua)樓(lou)(lou)、翠必(bi)居(ju),后來(lai)(lai)又(you)有(you)(you)(you)粵(yue)商大(da)酒樓(lou)(lou)、新雅(ya)、大(da)三元、東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)亞大(da)酒樓(lou)(lou)等(deng)(deng)。寧(ning)波菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)來(lai)(lai)滬(hu)(hu)也較早,如金陵東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)路鴻(hong)運(yun)樓(lou)(lou)、涌江狀元樓(lou)(lou)、四(si)明(ming)狀元樓(lou)(lou)等(deng)(deng),它們以(yi)(yi)經營海(hai)鮮菜(cai)(cai)(cai)肴為(wei)(wei)主(zhu),也很受(shou)(shou)顧客(ke)歡迎(ying)。鎮揚(yang)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)最(zui)早始(shi)于(yu)光緒年間(jian),如漢口路老(lao)(lao)半(ban)齋;酉樓(lou)(lou)、新半(ban)齋酒樓(lou)(lou)等(deng)(deng)。京幫最(zui)早的(de)有(you)(you)(you)會賓樓(lou)(lou)、悅(yue)賓樓(lou)(lou)、太白樓(lou)(lou)、珊家(jia)園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)等(deng)(deng)。四(si)川(chuan)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)在(zai)(zai)同(tong)(tong)(tong)治(zhi)(zhi)年間(jian)就(jiu)有(you)(you)(you),最(zui)早的(de)有(you)(you)(you)大(da)雅(ya)樓(lou)(lou)、美麗慎記、都(dou)益(yi)處(chu)、陶禾春,后有(you)(you)(you)聚豐(feng)園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)、蜀腴飯店、梅龍鎮等(deng)(deng)。河南菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)最(zui)早有(you)(you)(you)梁園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)致美樓(lou)(lou),后有(you)(you)(you)厚(hou)福(fu)樓(lou)(lou)。福(fu)建菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)早有(you)(you)(you)小(xiao)有(you)(you)(you)天,別有(you)(you)(you)天,后有(you)(you)(you)天樂園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)。清(qing)真館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)始(shi)于(yu)明(ming)國(guo)初期(qi),先(xian)有(you)(you)(you)洪(hong)長興、宴林春、南來(lai)(lai)順等(deng)(deng)。素菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)有(you)(you)(you)功德林、春風(feng)松(song)月樓(lou)(lou)、玉(yu)佛(fo)寺等(deng)(deng)。在(zai)(zai)清(qing)末民初時(shi)(shi),已(yi)有(you)(you)(you)11個(ge)地(di)(di)方風(feng)味菜(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)在(zai)(zai)上(shang)海(hai)出現。從民國(guo)初期(qi)到(dao)30年代末,又(you)先(xian)后增加了杭州(zhou)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)、潮州(zhou)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)、湖南菜(cai)(cai)(cai)等(deng)(deng),于(yu)是形成(cheng)了滬(hu)(hu)、蘇、錫、寧(ning)、徽(hui)(hui)、粵(yue)、京、川(chuan)、閩(min)、湘、豫、魯、揚(yang)、潮、清(qing)真、素菜(cai)(cai)(cai)等(deng)(deng)l 6個(ge)地(di)(di)方風(feng)味聚于(yu)一(yi)地(di)(di)的(de)格(ge)局,為(wei)(wei)發展(zhan)和豐(feng)富上(shang)海(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)提(ti)供了良好的(de)條件(jian)。
(三)現代上海菜發展(zhan)的新特(te)點
從30年代(dai)到40年代(dai)末,這是上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館最(zui)繁(fan)榮發展的(de)(de)時期。那時上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)本地菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館仍占(zhan)多(duo)(duo)數,營業興旺,特(te)別是酒席十分吃香。因為(wei)(wei)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)價格便宜,菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)的(de)(de)數量(liang)較(jiao)多(duo)(duo),加(jia)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)是一(yi)個(ge)現代(dai)化的(de)(de)大(da)城市,來滬(hu)者(zhe)都(dou)要品嘗一(yi)番(fan)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai),所以(yi)(yi)在(zai)滬(hu)設宴請客多(duo)(duo)數在(zai)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館中舉辦,因而生意(yi)很好,與上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)相似(si)的(de)(de)蘇(su)州、無(wu)錫(xi)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館也是如此。由于(yu)(yu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館不斷(duan)吸(xi)取外地菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館的(de)(de)長(chang)處,特(te)別是與蘇(su)州、無(wu)錫(xi)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)逐漸(jian)形成一(yi)體,使上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)更(geng)加(jia)具有(you)(you)江南水(shui)鄉風昧特(te)色。首(shou)先是講究選料(liao)新鮮,取用四(si)季(ji)時令蔬菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai),魚(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)蝦以(yi)(yi)江浙兩省為(wei)(wei)主,取活(huo)(huo)為(wei)(wei)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang),一(yi)年四(si)季(ji)有(you)(you)活(huo)(huo)魚(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)陳設于(yu)(yu)魚(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)水(shui)池內,供(gong)客選擇(ze),當場活(huo)(huo)殺烹制。第二(er),菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)肴(yao)(yao)品種眾(zhong)多(duo)(duo),四(si)季(ji)有(you)(you)別。如春季(ji)有(you)(you)生煸(bian)(bian)草頭、生煸(bian)(bian)枸(gou)杞頭、竹筍(sun)枸(gou)杞、生煸(bian)(bian)豆(dou)苗、刀魚(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)、回魚(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)等(deng)(deng)(deng);夏(xia)季(ji)有(you)(you)清(qing)炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)鱔糊、清(qing)蒸鰣(shi)魚(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)、水(shui)晶蝦仁等(deng)(deng)(deng);秋冬季(ji)節名菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)更(geng)多(duo)(duo),如菊花蟹(xie)(xie)斗(dou)、炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)蟹(xie)(xie)粉(fen)、炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)蟹(xie)(xie)黃油、蟹(xie)(xie)粉(fen)獅子(zi)頭、冰糖甲(jia)魚(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)、油醬毛蟹(xie)(xie)、紅(hong)澆圈(quan)子(zi)、蝦子(zi)大(da)烏參(can)、冬筍(sun)腌(a)鮮、砂(sha)鍋大(da)魚(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)頭、青魚(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)香肺、清(qing)魚(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)下巴(ba)劃水(shui)等(deng)(deng)(deng)等(deng)(deng)(deng)。第三,在(zai)烹調(diao)方法上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang),上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)原料(liao)以(yi)(yi)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)、蒸、煨(wei)、窩、炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)并(bing)重,逐漸(jian)轉(zhuan)為(wei)(wei)以(yi)(yi)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)、生煸(bian)(bian)、滑炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)、蒸為(wei)(wei)多(duo)(duo),其中以(yi)(yi)生煸(bian)(bian)、滑炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)為(wei)(wei)最(zui)多(duo)(duo),特(te)別擅長(chang)于(yu)(yu)四(si)季(ji)河(he)鮮烹制。第四(si),口味(wei)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)也有(you)(you)了很大(da)變(bian)(bian)化。原來上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)以(yi)(yi)濃(nong)湯(tang)、濃(nong)汁厚(hou)昧為(wei)(wei)主,后(hou)來逐步(bu)變(bian)(bian)為(wei)(wei)鹵汁適中、清(qing)淡(dan)(dan)素雅,也有(you)(you)濃(nong)油赤醬。在(zai)烹制紅(hong)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)圈(quan)子(zi)、紅(hong)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)肉(rou)及紅(hong)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)魚(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)一(yi)類菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)肴(yao)(yao)時,仍重用調(diao)味(wei),濃(nong)油赤醬,以(yi)(yi)使食物鮮而和昧。對于(yu)(yu)炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)均(jun)采用滑炒(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao)(chao),講究鮮嫩(nen)、色白、咸淡(dan)(dan)適口。特(te)別是夏(xia)秋季(ji)節的(de)(de)糟(zao)味(wei)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)肴(yao)(yao),如糟(zao)雞、糟(zao)豬爪、糟(zao)肚、糟(zao)豬舌、糟(zao)青魚(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)等(deng)(deng)(deng)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)肴(yao)(yao),香味(wei)濃(nong)郁,頗有(you)(you)特(te)色,同過去早期上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)已有(you)(you)很大(da)不同,表現出融匯諸昧之長(chang),以(yi)(yi)不斷(duan)完善自(zi)我發展的(de)(de)趨勢。
與(yu)此(ci)同(tong)時(shi)(shi),許多(duo)經營各(ge)(ge)地(di)風(feng)(feng)味(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)經營情況也發(fa)生(sheng)不(bu)斷變化。在經營上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)除了(le)(le)少(shao)(shao)(shao)數(shu)處于鬧市地(di)區大(da)店名店生(sheng)意較(jiao)好外(wai)(wai),其他不(bu)少(shao)(shao)(shao)各(ge)(ge)地(di)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)經營不(bu)理想,顧客(ke)較(jiao)少(shao)(shao)(shao),因為(wei)大(da)批(pi)滬地(di)顧客(ke)多(duo)來自江浙兩省,他們都喜歡(huan)到(dao)本地(di)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)就(jiu)餐(can),很少(shao)(shao)(shao)到(dao)外(wai)(wai)地(di)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)就(jiu)餐(can)。在30年(nian)代中期(qi),上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)和(he)(he)蘇(su)州(zhou)、無錫(xi)(xi)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)中酒席盛(sheng)行,而(er)在廣(guang)東、福建、四川(chuan)等一(yi)些菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)酒席較(jiao)少(shao)(shao)(shao),尤其是廣(guang)東菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)辦的(de)(de)筵席,雖然(ran)花(hua)色好看,但(dan)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)的(de)(de)數(shu)量少(shao)(shao)(shao),調味(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)單(dan)一(yi),烹(peng)調上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)偏生(sheng)嫩,菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)肴滋(zi)味(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)沒有上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)入味(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei),由于他們經營上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)不(bu)適(shi)(shi)(shi)合上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)特(te)點,所(suo)(suo)以許多(duo)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)為(wei)了(le)(le)適(shi)(shi)(shi)應上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)當地(di)消(xiao)費者(zhe)需要,便紛紛學(xue)習上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)的(de)(de)做法,改變了(le)(le)自己某(mou)些操作方法與(yu)調味(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)用料,如上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)粵菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)借用西菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)烹(peng)制昌魚(yu)、吉利明蝦等,以逐(zhu)漸(jian)適(shi)(shi)(shi)應上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)的(de)(de)消(xiao)費特(te)點,這樣就(jiu)出現了(le)(le)所(suo)(suo)謂各(ge)(ge)種(zhong)“海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)派菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)”,實際上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)這些外(wai)(wai)地(di)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)就(jiu)變成了(le)(le)既能適(shi)(shi)(shi)應上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)消(xiao)費特(te)點,又能適(shi)(shi)(shi)合外(wai)(wai)地(di)來客(ke)的(de)(de)各(ge)(ge)種(zhong)風(feng)(feng)味(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)。事實上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang),到(dao)40年(nian)代這些菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)企業經營者(zhe)多(duo)數(shu)已被滬菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)經營者(zhe)所(suo)(suo)代替,成為(wei)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)的(de)(de)一(yi)個組(zu)成部分(fen)。由于上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)本地(di)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)和(he)(he)外(wai)(wai)地(di)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)長期(qi)共存相互影響(xiang),使上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)本地(di)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(包括蘇(su)州(zhou)、無錫(xi)(xi)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai))吸收了(le)(le)各(ge)(ge)地(di)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)特(te)點:而(er)外(wai)(wai)地(di)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)逐(zhu)漸(jian)同(tong)化于上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai),成為(wei)具有適(shi)(shi)(shi)合上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)特(te)點的(de)(de)各(ge)(ge)種(zhong)地(di)方風(feng)(feng)味(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)。使上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)從原來本地(di)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)的(de)(de)基(ji)礎上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)逐(zhu)漸(jian)發(fa)展形成了(le)(le)以上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)和(he)(he)蘇(su)州(zhou)、無錫(xi)(xi)江南水鄉風(feng)(feng)昧為(wei)主(zhu)體并(bing)兼有各(ge)(ge)地(di)風(feng)(feng)味(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)一(yi)個地(di)方風(feng)(feng)味(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)。40年(nian)代的(de)(de)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai),菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)館(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)林立,名菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)云集,山珍海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)味(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)集海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)內外(wai)(wai)之精(jing)華。40年(nian)代出版(ban)的(de)(de)《上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)市場大(da)觀》曾(ceng)以“吃在上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)”為(wei)題,系(xi)統地(di)介紹了(le)(le)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)的(de)(de)各(ge)(ge)種(zhong)特(te)點與(yu)不(bu)同(tong)風(feng)(feng)味(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)。全國各(ge)(ge)地(di)報(bao)紙曾(ceng)稱贊說: “上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)是吃的(de)(de)世界(jie)。”總之,上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)是一(yi)種(zhong)在適(shi)(shi)(shi)應中求生(sheng)存、趨時(shi)(shi)中求發(fa)展、開拓(tuo)中變革創(chuang)新的(de)(de)菜(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)系(xi)。它(ta)的(de)(de)風(feng)(feng)格以適(shi)(shi)(shi)應、趨時(shi)(shi)、開拓(tuo)為(wei)主(zhu)要特(te)征。