創辦于1867年,杭州知名老牌面食餐館,以其歷史長/規模大/特色鮮明而飲譽國內外,旗下頗具特色的產品有蝦爆鱔面/片兒川等
奎元館面(mian)店(dian)(簡稱奎元館)1867年(清(qing)同治六年)創辦于杭州,創辦人系安徽籍(ji)人士(shi),姓名(ming)無可考證(zheng)。該店(dian)雖幾易其主,但其經營面(mian)條的業務始(shi)終(zhong)未變,且以歷史長、規模大、特色鮮(xian)明而飲譽(yu)國內外(wai)。
奎元(yuan)館的(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條自有(you)(you)其特(te)(te)色:選用(yong)(yong)的(de)是(shi)(shi)好的(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen),專人(ren)(ren)制作(zuo),面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條要做(zuo)到(dao)下(xia)水后燒(shao)而(er)不(bu)(bu)糊,韌而(er)滑口(kou),吃(chi)(chi)起來有(you)(you)筋;面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)上(shang)(shang)的(de)配料也要十分(fen)講(jiang)究。“片(pian)兒川”是(shi)(shi)奎元(yuan)館的(de)特(te)(te)色面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)之一(yi),相(xiang)傳是(shi)(shi)從蘇東(dong)坡在杭(hang)州做(zuo)館時寫的(de)“無肉(rou)令人(ren)(ren)瘦,無竹(zhu)令人(ren)(ren)俗”中得(de)到(dao)的(de)啟(qi)示(shi)。它(ta)以新鮮(xian)腿肉(rou)、時鮮(xian)竹(zhu)筍(sun)、綠(lv)嫩雪(xue)菜(cai)作(zuo)為原料,經(jing)烹制后,色香味俱(ju)全(quan),令人(ren)(ren)饞涎四(si)滴。有(you)(you)人(ren)(ren)嘗后感嘆著說(shuo)(shuo):“有(you)(you)筍(sun)有(you)(you)肉(rou)不(bu)(bu)瘦不(bu)(bu)俗,雪(xue)菜(cai)燒(shao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)神仙(xian)口(kou)福(fu)。”“蝦(xia)(xia)爆鱔(shan)(shan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”也是(shi)(shi)聲名遠播的(de)一(yi)種特(te)(te)色面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。據(ju)說(shuo)(shuo)在清末杭(hang)州一(yi)帶(dai)水網密(mi)布,盛產鱔(shan)(shan)魚,河蝦(xia)(xia)大都(dou)被魚兒吃(chi)(chi)掉了顯得(de)珍貴,漁民(min)為了推銷鱔(shan)(shan)魚就以河蝦(xia)(xia)搭配。奎元(yuan)館便用(yong)(yong)蝦(xia)(xia)鱔(shan)(shan)制作(zuo)一(yi)道菜(cai):蝦(xia)(xia)肉(rou)鱔(shan)(shan)肉(rou)用(yong)(yong)油爆炒后再以香麻油淋,加上(shang)(shang)紅的(de)椒(jiao)絲(si)、綠(lv)的(de)蔥絲(si)或(huo)黃(huang)瓜絲(si),放在這樣一(yi)碗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)上(shang)(shang),任誰也沒辦(ban)法抵擋得(de)住它(ta)的(de)誘(you)惑力。為了配合酒(jiu)客的(de)需要,面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)澆(jiao)(jiao)頭(tou)也可分(fen)別裝盆,連同(tong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食一(yi)起上(shang)(shang)桌,可用(yong)(yong)澆(jiao)(jiao)頭(tou)下(xia)酒(jiu),酒(jiu)喝完把剩(sheng)下(xia)的(de)澆(jiao)(jiao)頭(tou)放到(dao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)里再吃(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。
奎(kui)元館經營的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)品種(zhong)達百(bai)種(zhong)之多,但負盛名的(de)(de)要數(shu)片(pian)兒川(chuan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)和(he)爆(bao)鱔面(mian)(mian)(mian)。奎(kui)元館的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)要稱作“坐(zuo)面(mian)(mian)(mian)”,選用無(wu)錫頭號面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉,由專(zhuan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)制(zhi)作,用手工(gong)捍上勁后,還(huan)得墊上一(yi)根碗口粗、9尺(chi)(chi)長的(de)(de)竹(zhu)杠,再用人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)工(gong)坐(zuo)研半個小時(shi)(shi)左(zuo)右,每30斤面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉打(da)成(cheng)8尺(chi)(chi)寬、7尺(chi)(chi)長的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)皮,可切(qie)成(cheng)3分左(zuo)右的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)條。“坐(zuo)面(mian)(mian)(mian)”燒(shao)而(er)不(bu)糊,韌(ren)而(er)滑口,吃起(qi)來(lai)有“筋(jin)骨”,面(mian)(mian)(mian)料配(pei)制(zhi)也十(shi)分講究。片(pian)而(er)川(chuan)配(pei)料相傳(chuan)是從宋朝詩人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)蘇東(dong)坡在杭州做地(di)方官時(shi)(shi)所寫的(de)(de)“無(wu)肉(rou)令人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)瘦,無(wu)筍(sun)(sun)令人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)俗”之句得到啟示而(er)來(lai)的(de)(de)。它以新鮮腿肉(rou)、時(shi)(shi)鮮竹(zhu)筍(sun)(sun)、綠嫩(nen)雪菜作為原料,經廚師烹制(zhi),當一(yi)碗熱(re)氣騰騰的(de)(de)片(pian)兒川(chuan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)端上餐時(shi)(shi),只見肉(rou)紅、筍(sun)(sun)白、菜綠,色澤分明,引(yin)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)食(shi)欲。難怪后人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)常言,“有筍(sun)(sun)有肉(rou)不(bu)瘦不(bu)俗,雪菜燒(shao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)神仙口福”。
蝦(xia)爆(bao)鱔(shan)面的搭配(pei)(pei)也有(you)一段經歷。據說清同治(zhi)年間(jian),錢塘一帶盛產鱔(shan)魚(yu),淡水河(he)蝦(xia)卻不甚多,顯得名(ming)貴(gui)。漁(yu)民們為了(le)推(tui)銷鱔(shan)面,就以鱔(shan)、河(he)蝦(xia)配(pei)(pei)售。奎(kui)元館選用(yong)的河(he)蝦(xia)大(da)(da)小勻稱,現賣現燒(shao)。鱔(shan)魚(yu)規(gui)定要(yao)有(you)大(da)(da)拇(mu)指(zhi)粗,每(mei)斤5條(tiao)左右,這樣大(da)(da)小的鱔(shan)魚(yu),正處于“壯年”肉厚質嫩(nen)。爆(bao)鱔(shan)面在烹調(diao)時,采用(yong)“三油(you)(you)”爆(bao)炒,即先用(yong)菜油(you)(you)爆(bao),次用(yong)豬油(you)(you)炒,再用(yong)麻油(you)(you)燒(shao)。這樣蝦(xia)嫩(nen)鱔(shan)脆(cui),香氣襲(xi)人,味道(dao)美不勝言。