創辦于1867年,杭州知名老牌面食餐館,以其歷史長/規模大/特色鮮明而飲譽國內外,旗下頗具特色的產品有蝦爆鱔面/片兒川等
奎(kui)元館面店(簡稱奎(kui)元館)1867年(清同(tong)治六年)創辦于杭州,創辦人系安徽籍人士(shi),姓名無可考證。該店雖幾(ji)易(yi)其主,但(dan)其經營面條的業務始終(zhong)未變,且以歷(li)史長(chang)、規模大、特色鮮明而飲譽國內外(wai)。
奎元館(guan)的(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)條自有(you)其特色(se)(se):選用的(de)是好的(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉,專人(ren)制作,面(mian)(mian)(mian)條要(yao)做(zuo)到下(xia)(xia)水后燒(shao)而(er)不(bu)(bu)糊,韌而(er)滑(hua)口,吃(chi)起來有(you)筋;面(mian)(mian)(mian)上(shang)的(de)配料也(ye)要(yao)十分講究(jiu)。“片兒川”是奎元館(guan)的(de)特色(se)(se)面(mian)(mian)(mian)之一,相(xiang)傳是從蘇東坡在(zai)杭(hang)州做(zuo)館(guan)時寫的(de)“無肉(rou)令(ling)(ling)人(ren)瘦,無竹(zhu)(zhu)令(ling)(ling)人(ren)俗”中得到的(de)啟(qi)示。它(ta)以新鮮腿肉(rou)、時鮮竹(zhu)(zhu)筍、綠(lv)嫩(nen)雪(xue)菜作為(wei)原料,經烹(peng)制后,色(se)(se)香(xiang)味俱全,令(ling)(ling)人(ren)饞涎四(si)滴。有(you)人(ren)嘗(chang)后感嘆著(zhu)說:“有(you)筍有(you)肉(rou)不(bu)(bu)瘦不(bu)(bu)俗,雪(xue)菜燒(shao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)神(shen)仙口福。”“蝦(xia)爆鱔面(mian)(mian)(mian)”也(ye)是聲(sheng)名(ming)遠播的(de)一種特色(se)(se)面(mian)(mian)(mian)。據說在(zai)清(qing)末杭(hang)州一帶水網密布,盛產鱔魚(yu),河(he)蝦(xia)大都被魚(yu)兒吃(chi)掉(diao)了顯得珍貴,漁(yu)民為(wei)了推銷鱔魚(yu)就以河(he)蝦(xia)搭配。奎元館(guan)便用蝦(xia)鱔制作一道菜:蝦(xia)肉(rou)鱔肉(rou)用油爆炒后再(zai)以香(xiang)麻油淋(lin),加(jia)上(shang)紅(hong)的(de)椒絲、綠(lv)的(de)蔥(cong)絲或黃瓜絲,放在(zai)這樣(yang)一碗面(mian)(mian)(mian)上(shang),任誰(shui)也(ye)沒辦法(fa)抵擋得住它(ta)的(de)誘惑力。為(wei)了配合酒客的(de)需要(yao),面(mian)(mian)(mian)澆(jiao)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)也(ye)可分別裝盆,連同面(mian)(mian)(mian)食一起上(shang)桌,可用澆(jiao)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)下(xia)(xia)酒,酒喝完把剩下(xia)(xia)的(de)澆(jiao)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)放到面(mian)(mian)(mian)里(li)再(zai)吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)。
奎元(yuan)館(guan)經營的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)品種(zhong)達百種(zhong)之多,但負(fu)盛名的(de)(de)要數片兒川面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)和爆鱔面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。奎元(yuan)館(guan)的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)要稱作“坐(zuo)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”,選用(yong)(yong)無(wu)錫頭號面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉,由專(zhuan)人(ren)制(zhi)(zhi)作,用(yong)(yong)手工捍(han)上(shang)勁后,還(huan)得墊上(shang)一(yi)根(gen)碗口粗、9尺長(chang)的(de)(de)竹(zhu)杠,再用(yong)(yong)人(ren)工坐(zuo)研(yan)半個小時(shi)(shi)左右(you),每30斤(jin)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉打成8尺寬、7尺長(chang)的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)皮,可切(qie)成3分(fen)左右(you)的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條。“坐(zuo)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”燒(shao)而不糊,韌(ren)而滑口,吃起(qi)來有(you)“筋骨”,面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)料(liao)配制(zhi)(zhi)也十分(fen)講(jiang)究。片而川配料(liao)相傳是從宋朝(chao)詩人(ren)蘇東(dong)坡在杭州(zhou)做地方(fang)官時(shi)(shi)所寫的(de)(de)“無(wu)肉(rou)令人(ren)瘦,無(wu)筍(sun)令人(ren)俗”之句(ju)得到啟示而來的(de)(de)。它以新鮮腿肉(rou)、時(shi)(shi)鮮竹(zhu)筍(sun)、綠(lv)嫩雪菜作為原料(liao),經廚師烹制(zhi)(zhi),當一(yi)碗熱氣騰(teng)騰(teng)的(de)(de)片兒川面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)端上(shang)餐時(shi)(shi),只(zhi)見肉(rou)紅(hong)、筍(sun)白、菜綠(lv),色澤分(fen)明,引人(ren)食(shi)欲。難怪后人(ren)常言,“有(you)筍(sun)有(you)肉(rou)不瘦不俗,雪菜燒(shao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)神仙口福”。
蝦(xia)(xia)爆鱔(shan)(shan)(shan)面的搭配也有一(yi)段經歷。據說清同治年間(jian),錢(qian)塘一(yi)帶(dai)盛產鱔(shan)(shan)(shan)魚(yu),淡水河(he)(he)蝦(xia)(xia)卻不(bu)甚多,顯得(de)名貴。漁(yu)民(min)們為了(le)推銷鱔(shan)(shan)(shan)面,就以鱔(shan)(shan)(shan)、河(he)(he)蝦(xia)(xia)配售。奎元(yuan)館選用(yong)的河(he)(he)蝦(xia)(xia)大(da)(da)小勻稱,現(xian)賣(mai)現(xian)燒。鱔(shan)(shan)(shan)魚(yu)規定要有大(da)(da)拇指(zhi)粗,每斤5條左右,這樣大(da)(da)小的鱔(shan)(shan)(shan)魚(yu),正(zheng)處于(yu)“壯(zhuang)年”肉(rou)厚質嫩(nen)(nen)。爆鱔(shan)(shan)(shan)面在(zai)烹調時,采用(yong)“三油(you)”爆炒,即先用(yong)菜(cai)油(you)爆,次用(yong)豬油(you)炒,再用(yong)麻(ma)油(you)燒。這樣蝦(xia)(xia)嫩(nen)(nen)鱔(shan)(shan)(shan)脆,香氣襲人(ren),味道美(mei)不(bu)勝言。