遠觀景象
平(ping)陽鼓樓金、元(yuan)、明、清(qing)皆重修過,但(dan)樓體仍保持原(yuan)(yuan)建筑特點。樓的平(ping)面(mian)呈正方形,四邊各40米(mi),面(mian)積1600平(ping)方米(mi),通(tong)高40.5米(mi)。四面(mian)沒回廊。基(ji)座(zuo)全用青(qing)磚砌筑,座(zuo)高八(ba)米(mi),大中(zhong)(zhong)樓基(ji)座(zuo)券砌門(men)(men)洞,十(shi)字相交,通(tong)連四條主街。門(men)(men)洞上(shang)方各嵌有(you)依明萬歷三(san)十(shi)一年(1603年)原(yuan)(yuan)刻復制(zhi)的巨形石雕匾額,分(fen)別為(wei)(wei)“東(dong)臨雷(lei)霍”、“西(xi)控(kong)河汾”、“南通(tong)秦蜀(shu)”、“北達(da)幽(you)并”。樓基(ji)東(dong)西(xi)兩側各建有(you)門(men)(men)樓,東(dong)曰“遠(yuan)眺(tiao)”,西(xi)曰“云(yun)梯”。入門(men)(men)樓,沿級再登(deng),拾級而上(shang)至中(zhong)(zhong)樓臺(tai)坪(ping)及中(zhong)(zhong)、上(shang)樓層(ceng),近觀遠(yuan)眺(tiao),別有(you)風(feng)光。大中(zhong)(zhong)樓門(men)(men)廳匾額題(ti)詞為(wei)(wei)明清(qing)兩代所傳,由元(yuan)帥、書法(fa)(畫)家啟功、李鋒、董壽平(ping)、段云(yun)、舒(shu)同、趙(zhao)樸初諸先生(sheng)書寫(xie),名(ming)人名(ming)作薈萃,胡為(wei)(wei)鼓樓增輝。
近景格局
門(men)洞上(shang)方(fang)各(ge)鐫有石雕匾額,依(yi)其(qi)四(si)面分(fen)(fen)(fen)別為(wei)(wei)“東臨雷(lei)霍(huo)”、“西控河汾(fen)”、“南通秦蜀”、“北達幽并(bing)”。這一(yi)(yi)組按明(ming)萬(wan)歷三(san)十(shi)一(yi)(yi)年(nian)(1603)原刻復制(zhi)的(de)(de)匾文,蒼勁古樸,概括了(le)平陽府的(de)(de)重要(yao)地理位置。大中樓(lou)(lou)基座的(de)(de)東西兩側,均(jun)建有石階門(men)樓(lou)(lou)。登40級臺階,可上(shang)到(dao)近10米高(gao)的(de)(de)臺坪,并(bing)由(you)(you)此入一(yi)(yi)廳,上(shang)二層,俯瞰全城。樓(lou)(lou)閣(ge)乃木構(gou)巨制(zhi),為(wei)(wei)二層、三(san)檐、四(si)級滴(di)水,十(shi)字歇(xie)山頂(ding)明(ming)式(shi)(shi)建筑,共有九條屋脊(ji),即一(yi)(yi)條正脊(ji)、四(si)條垂脊(ji)和四(si)條戧(chuang)脊(ji),因此又稱九脊(ji)頂(ding)。由(you)(you)于其(qi)正脊(ji)兩端到(dao)屋檐處中間折斷了(le)一(yi)(yi)次,分(fen)(fen)(fen)為(wei)(wei)垂脊(ji)和戧(chuang)脊(ji),好像“歇(xie)”了(le)一(yi)(yi)歇(xie),其(qi)上(shang)半部分(fen)(fen)(fen)為(wei)(wei)懸山頂(ding)或硬山頂(ding)的(de)(de)樣(yang)式(shi)(shi),而下半部分(fen)(fen)(fen)則為(wei)(wei)廡(wu)殿頂(ding)的(de)(de)樣(yang)式(shi)(shi)。歇(xie)山頂(ding)結(jie)合(he)了(le)直線(xian)和斜線(xian),在視覺效(xiao)果上(shang)給人以棱角分(fen)(fen)(fen)明(ming)、結(jie)構(gou)清晰明(ming)了(le)的(de)(de)感覺。
屋(wu)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)兩(liang)側(ce)形成的(de)(de)三角形墻面(mian),叫做山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)花。山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)面(mian)有(you)博風板,山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)花和(he)(he)(he)博風之間有(you)段距離,可形成陰影。為(wei)了(le)使(shi)屋(wu)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)不(bu)過于(yu)龐大,山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)花從(cong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)面(mian)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)柱中(zhong)線(xian)向(xiang)內收進,屋(wu)脊上(shang)(shang)有(you)各種(zhong)脊獸(shou)(shou)裝飾,其中(zhong)正脊上(shang)(shang)有(you)吻(wen)獸(shou)(shou)或望獸(shou)(shou),垂(chui)脊上(shang)(shang)有(you)垂(chui)獸(shou)(shou),戧脊上(shang)(shang)有(you)戧獸(shou)(shou)和(he)(he)(he)仙人(ren)走獸(shou)(shou),其數量和(he)(he)(he)用法都是(shi)有(you)嚴格等(deng)(deng)級限(xian)制的(de)(de)。其中(zhong)重檐(yan)(yan)(yan)歇(xie)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)等(deng)(deng)級高于(yu)單(dan)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)廡殿(dian)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding),僅低于(yu)重檐(yan)(yan)(yan)廡殿(dian)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding),而單(dan)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)歇(xie)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)低于(yu)單(dan)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)廡殿(dian)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding),只有(you)五品以上(shang)(shang)官吏的(de)(de)住宅正堂才能使(shi)用。歇(xie)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)分單(dan)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)和(he)(he)(he)重檐(yan)(yan)(yan)兩(liang)種(zhong),所謂重檐(yan)(yan)(yan),就是(shi)在基本歇(xie)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)的(de)(de)下方,再加上(shang)(shang)一層屋(wu)檐(yan)(yan)(yan),和(he)(he)(he)廡殿(dian)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)第二檐(yan)(yan)(yan)大致相同。例如天(tian)安(an)門、故宮的(de)(de)太和(he)(he)(he)門、保和(he)(he)(he)殿(dian)、乾清宮等(deng)(deng)就是(shi)重檐(yan)(yan)(yan)歇(xie)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding),妙應寺(si)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)門、智(zhi)化寺(si)智(zhi)化殿(dian)、臺灣臺北(bei)府(fu)城北(bei)門則為(wei)單(dan)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)歇(xie)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)。
鼓(gu)(gu)樓(lou)總高43.75米。支撐兩層樓(lou)閣(ge)的12根通(tong)天大柱(zhu),直徑均在一米左右。游客睹之,無(wu)(wu)不(bu)驚嘆,一層廳(ting)頂(ding)為(wei)天井式(shi)彩(cai)繪(hui)格板(ban),精工描繪(hui)了孔雀開(kai)屏、祥龍盤旋的民族(zu)傳統圖案,金碧(bi)輝煌(huang),猶(you)如(ru)宮(gong)殿;二(er)層梁(liang)架拱頂(ding),形如(ru)八(ba)卦藻井,四(si)壁皆為(wei)格棱窗,棱窗上部(bu)的木(mu)格部(bu)位,以帝堯(yao)傳說為(wei)主,描繪(hui)上古故事(shi)60余幅(fu):或堯(yao)王訪(fang)賢,或大禹鎖蚊(wen),或許由洗(xi)耳,無(wu)(wu)不(bu)色(se)(se)彩(cai)古雅,筆(bi)墨傳神。二(er)廳(ting)外有回廊,出廳(ting)憑欄四(si)顧,臨汾(fen)之山(shan)光水(shui)色(se)(se)盡收眼底(di):鳥瞰(kan)市內,大街(jie)小巷姹紫(zi)嫣紅,花果城中鋪錦繡;放眼郊外,遠山(shan)近(jin)水(shui)疊翠流(liu)碧(bi),麥(mai)棉鄉里溢(yi)金銀。大中樓(lou)究竟始建于何代(dai),尚無(wu)(wu)文(wen)獻確證(zheng)。據《北史李崇傳》記載:“兗土多劫(jie)盜(dao),崇令村置一樓(lou),樓(lou)懸一鼓(gu)(gu),盜(dao)發之處,雙槌亂擊,四(si)面諸村聞鼓(gu)(gu)皆守要路,俄頃之間聲布百里,便爾擒送。
平陽歷史
臨(lin)汾(fen)古稱平(ping)陽(yang)。遠在10萬(wan)年以前,臨(lin)汾(fen)人民的(de)祖(zu)先(xian)——“丁(ding)村人”就(jiu)生(sheng)息(xi)在汾(fen)河兩(liang)(liang)岸(an)。據堯(yao)典記載(zai),帝堯(yao)建都(dou)平(ping)陽(yang),故(gu)有堯(yao)都(dou)之稱傳世。傳說倉頡造字(zi)于此,也是東漢時(shi)期名將(jiang)衛青(qing)、霍(huo)去病的(de)故(gu)里。臨(lin)汾(fen)商周時(shi)稱冀州,春(chun)(chun)秋(qiu)屬晉,戰國屬魏(wei),春(chun)(chun)秋(qiu)時(shi)為(wei)河東郡(jun)地(di),漢代平(ping)陽(yang)縣,兩(liang)(liang)晉時(shi)期劉淵亦建都(dou)平(ping)陽(yang),隋朝改為(wei)臨(lin)汾(fen)縣,沿(yan)用了(le)下來。
鼓樓興建
諸(zhu)州(zhou)置(zhi)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)懸(xuan)(xuan)鼓,自(zi)崇(chong)始也。”李(li)崇(chong)是(shi)北魏末山(shan)東兗州(zhou)刺史,既然北魏從山(shan)東兗州(zhou)開始,州(zhou)州(zhou)興起了建(jian)鼓樓(lou)(lou)(lou),那么作為晉州(zhou)治所的(de)(de)平陽,于北魏始建(jian)鼓樓(lou)(lou)(lou)亦有可(ke)能。據史學界專家考(kao)證,平陽鼓樓(lou)(lou)(lou)有金(jin)代改(gai)建(jian)取名(ming)鐘樓(lou)(lou)(lou)之說(shuo),現在的(de)(de)大中(zhong)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)上(shang)亦懸(xuan)(xuan)有金(jin)明昌七年(1196)鑄(zhu)造的(de)(de)1口(kou)大鐵鐘。以此(ci)推斷(duan),此(ci)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)晚(wan)建(jian)于北宋時期。隨著(zhu)歲月的(de)(de)流逝,城(cheng)市的(de)(de)發展,鼓樓(lou)(lou)(lou)的(de)(de)作用逐(zhu)漸(jian)由防盜變為報時之用,且因(yin)鼓樓(lou)(lou)(lou)均(jun)建(jian)于城(cheng)市中(zhong)心,可(ke)發揮(hui)人(ren)文景(jing)觀的(de)(de)作用,因(yin)此(ci)毀而(er)復修次(ci)數越多(duo),建(jian)筑形制便愈壯美。據方志和(he)碑碣(jie)記載,在歷臨汾鼓樓(lou)(lou)(lou)共修過7次(ci)。自(zi)金(jin)改(gai)建(jian)往后,直到民國22年(1933)由各界人(ren)士捐資興工,使(shi)鼓樓(lou)(lou)(lou)又恢(hui)復了原(yuan)貌。
戰火中重生
1948年(nian)(nian),解放(fang)戰爭轉入戰略反攻(gong)階段,司令員率部(bu)包(bao)圍了(le)(le)臨(lin)汾城(cheng)。在(zai)城(cheng)內頑(wan)守的(de)閻軍,不顧(gu)市民的(de)反對,將修復(fu)僅(jin)15年(nian)(nian)的(de)鼓(gu)樓(lou)(lou)強行拆毀。自1984年(nian)(nian)9月至1987年(nian)(nian)5月,臨(lin)汾市成立修復(fu)鼓(gu)樓(lou)(lou)委(wei)員會(hui),按明(ming)代風格重新(xin)修復(fu)了(le)(le)鼓(gu)樓(lou)(lou),并恢復(fu)了(le)(le)明(ming)代對鼓(gu)樓(lou)(lou)的(de)稱謂——大中樓(lou)(lou)。新(xin)修大中樓(lou)(lou)的(de)門廳匾額,基本(ben)上選(xuan)用了(le)(le)明(ming)清(qing)時(shi)的(de)原(yuan)有匾詞。三(san)層(ceng)東(dong)、南兩面(mian)“太行形勝”、“云天咫尺”由(you)元帥親筆題寫:西面(mian)“望于(yu)姑射”由(you)前中國(guo)書(shu)(shu)法家(jia)協(xie)會(hui)啟(qi)功先(xian)生作書(shu)(shu);北面(mian)“窗宿斗牛”由(you)軍內書(shu)(shu)家(jia)李鋒揮毫;二層(ceng)4塊(kuai)門匾,東(dong)面(mian)“紫氣東(dong)臨(lin)”出(chu)自洪洞籍中國(guo)書(shu)(shu)畫家(jia)董壽平老(lao)先(xian)生之手,西面(mian)“襟山帶河”出(chu)自蒲縣籍革命老(lao)干部(bu)原(yuan)國(guo)家(jia)計委(wei)副(fu)主任段云筆下,南面(mian)“乾坤樓(lou)(lou)閣(ge)”為大書(shu)(shu)法家(jia)舒同先(xian)生之作,北面(mian)“聲和擊壤”乃中國(guo)政協(xie)、佛學會(hui)會(hui)長(chang)、大書(shu)(shu)法家(jia)趙樸初所書(shu)(shu)。