遠觀景象
平(ping)陽鼓(gu)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)金(jin)、元、明、清皆重修過,但樓(lou)(lou)(lou)體(ti)仍保持原建筑(zhu)特(te)點。樓(lou)(lou)(lou)的平(ping)面呈正方(fang)形,四(si)邊各40米(mi),面積1600平(ping)方(fang)米(mi),通高40.5米(mi)。四(si)面沒回廊。基座全用青磚砌(qi)筑(zhu),座高八米(mi),大中(zhong)(zhong)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)基座券(quan)砌(qi)門(men)洞,十(shi)(shi)字相交,通連四(si)條主街。門(men)洞上(shang)方(fang)各嵌有依明萬(wan)歷三十(shi)(shi)一年(1603年)原刻復(fu)制的巨形石雕匾額,分(fen)別(bie)為(wei)“東臨雷霍”、“西(xi)控河汾(fen)”、“南(nan)通秦蜀”、“北達幽并”。樓(lou)(lou)(lou)基東西(xi)兩側各建有門(men)樓(lou)(lou)(lou),東曰“遠(yuan)眺”,西(xi)曰“云梯”。入門(men)樓(lou)(lou)(lou),沿(yan)級再登,拾級而上(shang)至(zhi)中(zhong)(zhong)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)臺坪及中(zhong)(zhong)、上(shang)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)層,近觀遠(yuan)眺,別(bie)有風光。大中(zhong)(zhong)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)門(men)廳匾額題詞為(wei)明清兩代所傳,由元帥、書法(畫)家(jia)啟功、李鋒、董(dong)壽平(ping)、段云、舒(shu)同、趙樸初諸先生書寫,名人(ren)名作薈萃,胡為(wei)鼓(gu)樓(lou)(lou)(lou)增輝。
近景格局
門(men)洞上(shang)方各鐫(juan)有(you)石雕(diao)匾額(e),依(yi)其四(si)面分別為(wei)(wei)“東(dong)(dong)臨雷霍”、“西控河汾”、“南通秦蜀”、“北達幽(you)并”。這一組按明(ming)(ming)萬歷三(san)十一年(nian)(1603)原刻(ke)復制的(de)匾文,蒼勁(jing)古樸,概括了平陽府(fu)的(de)重要(yao)地(di)理位(wei)置。大中樓基(ji)座的(de)東(dong)(dong)西兩側,均(jun)建有(you)石階門(men)樓。登(deng)40級(ji)(ji)臺(tai)階,可上(shang)到近10米(mi)高的(de)臺(tai)坪,并由此入一廳,上(shang)二(er)層(ceng),俯(fu)瞰全城。樓閣乃木(mu)構(gou)巨制,為(wei)(wei)二(er)層(ceng)、三(san)檐、四(si)級(ji)(ji)滴水,十字(zi)歇(xie)(xie)山(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)明(ming)(ming)式(shi)建筑,共有(you)九(jiu)條(tiao)屋(wu)脊(ji)(ji),即一條(tiao)正脊(ji)(ji)、四(si)條(tiao)垂脊(ji)(ji)和四(si)條(tiao)戧脊(ji)(ji),因(yin)此又稱(cheng)九(jiu)脊(ji)(ji)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)。由于(yu)其正脊(ji)(ji)兩端到屋(wu)檐處中間折斷了一次(ci),分為(wei)(wei)垂脊(ji)(ji)和戧脊(ji)(ji),好像(xiang)“歇(xie)(xie)”了一歇(xie)(xie),其上(shang)半部分為(wei)(wei)懸山(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)或硬山(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)的(de)樣(yang)式(shi),而(er)下(xia)半部分則為(wei)(wei)廡殿頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)的(de)樣(yang)式(shi)。歇(xie)(xie)山(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)結(jie)合了直線(xian)和斜線(xian),在視覺效果上(shang)給人以棱角(jiao)分明(ming)(ming)、結(jie)構(gou)清晰明(ming)(ming)了的(de)感(gan)覺。
屋頂(ding)兩側形(xing)成的(de)三角形(xing)墻面(mian),叫做(zuo)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)花(hua)。山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)面(mian)有(you)博風(feng)板,山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)花(hua)和(he)(he)博風(feng)之間有(you)段距離,可形(xing)成陰影。為(wei)了使屋頂(ding)不過于(yu)龐大(da),山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)花(hua)從山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)面(mian)檐(yan)(yan)柱中(zhong)線向內收進,屋脊(ji)上有(you)各種脊(ji)獸(shou)(shou)裝飾,其(qi)中(zhong)正(zheng)脊(ji)上有(you)吻獸(shou)(shou)或望獸(shou)(shou),垂脊(ji)上有(you)垂獸(shou)(shou),戧脊(ji)上有(you)戧獸(shou)(shou)和(he)(he)仙(xian)人走獸(shou)(shou),其(qi)數(shu)量(liang)和(he)(he)用(yong)(yong)法(fa)都(dou)是(shi)(shi)有(you)嚴格等(deng)級限制的(de)。其(qi)中(zhong)重(zhong)檐(yan)(yan)歇山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)等(deng)級高于(yu)單(dan)(dan)檐(yan)(yan)廡(wu)殿(dian)(dian)頂(ding),僅(jin)低于(yu)重(zhong)檐(yan)(yan)廡(wu)殿(dian)(dian)頂(ding),而單(dan)(dan)檐(yan)(yan)歇山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)低于(yu)單(dan)(dan)檐(yan)(yan)廡(wu)殿(dian)(dian)頂(ding),只有(you)五(wu)品以上官吏的(de)住宅正(zheng)堂才能(neng)使用(yong)(yong)。歇山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)分單(dan)(dan)檐(yan)(yan)和(he)(he)重(zhong)檐(yan)(yan)兩種,所謂重(zhong)檐(yan)(yan),就是(shi)(shi)在基(ji)本歇山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)的(de)下(xia)方,再加上一層屋檐(yan)(yan),和(he)(he)廡(wu)殿(dian)(dian)頂(ding)第二檐(yan)(yan)大(da)致(zhi)相同。例如天安門(men)、故宮(gong)的(de)太(tai)和(he)(he)門(men)、保(bao)和(he)(he)殿(dian)(dian)、乾清宮(gong)等(deng)就是(shi)(shi)重(zhong)檐(yan)(yan)歇山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding),妙(miao)應寺山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)門(men)、智化寺智化殿(dian)(dian)、臺(tai)灣臺(tai)北府城北門(men)則為(wei)單(dan)(dan)檐(yan)(yan)歇山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)。
鼓樓(lou)(lou)總高43.75米(mi)。支撐兩層(ceng)樓(lou)(lou)閣(ge)的12根通(tong)天大(da)柱(zhu),直徑(jing)均在一(yi)(yi)米(mi)左右(you)。游客睹之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),無(wu)不(bu)驚嘆,一(yi)(yi)層(ceng)廳(ting)頂為天井(jing)式彩(cai)繪格(ge)(ge)板,精(jing)工描(miao)(miao)繪了孔雀開屏、祥龍盤(pan)旋(xuan)的民族傳(chuan)統(tong)圖案,金碧(bi)輝煌(huang),猶如宮(gong)殿;二(er)層(ceng)梁架拱(gong)頂,形(xing)如八卦藻井(jing),四壁(bi)皆為格(ge)(ge)棱窗,棱窗上(shang)部(bu)的木格(ge)(ge)部(bu)位,以(yi)帝(di)堯傳(chuan)說為主,描(miao)(miao)繪上(shang)古故事60余幅(fu):或堯王訪賢,或大(da)禹鎖蚊,或許由洗耳,無(wu)不(bu)色彩(cai)古雅,筆墨傳(chuan)神。二(er)廳(ting)外有回廊,出(chu)廳(ting)憑欄四顧,臨汾之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)山(shan)(shan)光(guang)水色盡收眼(yan)底:鳥瞰(kan)市內,大(da)街(jie)小巷姹(cha)紫嫣紅,花(hua)果城中(zhong)鋪錦繡(xiu);放眼(yan)郊外,遠山(shan)(shan)近水疊(die)翠流(liu)碧(bi),麥棉(mian)鄉里(li)(li)溢金銀。大(da)中(zhong)樓(lou)(lou)究竟(jing)始建于(yu)何代,尚(shang)無(wu)文獻(xian)確證。據《北史李(li)崇傳(chuan)》記載:“兗土多劫盜,崇令村(cun)置一(yi)(yi)樓(lou)(lou),樓(lou)(lou)懸一(yi)(yi)鼓,盜發之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)處,雙槌亂擊,四面諸村(cun)聞鼓皆守要(yao)路,俄頃之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)間聲(sheng)布百里(li)(li),便(bian)爾(er)擒送(song)。
平陽歷史
臨(lin)汾(fen)(fen)古稱(cheng)平陽(yang)。遠在(zai)10萬(wan)年以前,臨(lin)汾(fen)(fen)人民的(de)祖先——“丁村人”就生息在(zai)汾(fen)(fen)河兩岸。據堯典記載(zai),帝(di)堯建都(dou)平陽(yang),故有堯都(dou)之稱(cheng)傳世(shi)。傳說倉頡造(zao)字于此,也是東(dong)漢(han)時(shi)期名將(jiang)衛青(qing)、霍(huo)去(qu)病的(de)故里。臨(lin)汾(fen)(fen)商周(zhou)時(shi)稱(cheng)冀州,春(chun)秋(qiu)屬晉,戰國屬魏,春(chun)秋(qiu)時(shi)為(wei)河東(dong)郡地,漢(han)代平陽(yang)縣(xian),兩晉時(shi)期劉淵亦(yi)建都(dou)平陽(yang),隋(sui)朝改(gai)為(wei)臨(lin)汾(fen)(fen)縣(xian),沿用了下來。
鼓樓興建
諸州(zhou)置樓(lou)(lou)懸鼓,自(zi)崇始(shi)(shi)也。”李(li)崇是北(bei)魏(wei)末山東兗州(zhou)刺史,既然(ran)北(bei)魏(wei)從山東兗州(zhou)開始(shi)(shi),州(zhou)州(zhou)興(xing)起了建(jian)(jian)鼓樓(lou)(lou),那(nei)么作(zuo)為(wei)晉州(zhou)治所(suo)的平陽,于北(bei)魏(wei)始(shi)(shi)建(jian)(jian)鼓樓(lou)(lou)亦有(you)(you)可能(neng)。據史學界專家考證,平陽鼓樓(lou)(lou)有(you)(you)金代改(gai)建(jian)(jian)取名(ming)鐘樓(lou)(lou)之說(shuo),現在的大(da)中樓(lou)(lou)上(shang)亦懸有(you)(you)金明昌七年(1196)鑄造(zao)的1口大(da)鐵鐘。以(yi)此(ci)推斷,此(ci)樓(lou)(lou)晚建(jian)(jian)于北(bei)宋時期。隨著(zhu)歲月(yue)的流逝,城(cheng)市的發(fa)展,鼓樓(lou)(lou)的作(zuo)用逐漸由防盜變為(wei)報時之用,且因(yin)鼓樓(lou)(lou)均建(jian)(jian)于城(cheng)市中心,可發(fa)揮人(ren)文(wen)景觀(guan)的作(zuo)用,因(yin)此(ci)毀而復(fu)修次數越多,建(jian)(jian)筑形制便愈壯美(mei)。據方(fang)志和碑(bei)碣記載,在歷臨(lin)汾鼓樓(lou)(lou)共(gong)修過7次。自(zi)金改(gai)建(jian)(jian)往后(hou),直(zhi)到民國22年(1933)由各界人(ren)士捐資興(xing)工,使鼓樓(lou)(lou)又恢復(fu)了原貌。
戰火中重生
1948年(nian),解放戰爭轉入(ru)戰略反(fan)攻階段,司令(ling)員(yuan)率部(bu)包(bao)圍了(le)臨汾城(cheng)。在城(cheng)內(nei)頑(wan)守(shou)的(de)(de)閻軍(jun),不顧市民(min)的(de)(de)反(fan)對(dui),將修復(fu)僅15年(nian)的(de)(de)鼓樓(lou)強行拆毀。自1984年(nian)9月(yue)至1987年(nian)5月(yue),臨汾市成立修復(fu)鼓樓(lou)委(wei)員(yuan)會,按(an)明代風(feng)格重(zhong)新修復(fu)了(le)鼓樓(lou),并恢復(fu)了(le)明代對(dui)鼓樓(lou)的(de)(de)稱謂——大(da)中(zhong)樓(lou)。新修大(da)中(zhong)樓(lou)的(de)(de)門(men)廳匾額(e),基本上選(xuan)用了(le)明清時的(de)(de)原(yuan)有匾詞。三層東(dong)(dong)、南(nan)(nan)兩面(mian)(mian)“太(tai)行形勝”、“云(yun)(yun)天咫尺”由元帥親筆題寫:西面(mian)(mian)“望于姑(gu)射(she)”由前中(zhong)國書(shu)法家(jia)協會啟功(gong)先生作(zuo)書(shu);北(bei)面(mian)(mian)“窗(chuang)宿斗牛”由軍(jun)內(nei)書(shu)家(jia)李(li)鋒揮毫;二層4塊門(men)匾,東(dong)(dong)面(mian)(mian)“紫氣東(dong)(dong)臨”出自洪洞籍中(zhong)國書(shu)畫家(jia)董壽平老(lao)先生之(zhi)手,西面(mian)(mian)“襟(jin)山帶河”出自蒲縣籍革命老(lao)干(gan)部(bu)原(yuan)國家(jia)計委(wei)副主任段云(yun)(yun)筆下,南(nan)(nan)面(mian)(mian)“乾坤樓(lou)閣”為大(da)書(shu)法家(jia)舒同先生之(zhi)作(zuo),北(bei)面(mian)(mian)“聲和擊壤”乃中(zhong)國政協、佛學會會長、大(da)書(shu)法家(jia)趙(zhao)樸初所書(shu)。