遠觀景象
平(ping)陽鼓樓金、元、明、清皆重(zhong)修過,但樓體仍保持原建筑特(te)點。樓的平(ping)面呈正方形,四邊各(ge)40米(mi),面積(ji)1600平(ping)方米(mi),通(tong)高40.5米(mi)。四面沒回(hui)廊。基(ji)(ji)座全用(yong)青磚砌筑,座高八(ba)米(mi),大中樓基(ji)(ji)座券砌門(men)(men)洞,十字(zi)相交,通(tong)連四條主街。門(men)(men)洞上(shang)方各(ge)嵌有依明萬歷三十一年(1603年)原刻(ke)復制的巨形石雕匾額,分別為(wei)“東臨雷(lei)霍”、“西(xi)(xi)控河(he)汾”、“南(nan)通(tong)秦蜀”、“北達幽(you)并”。樓基(ji)(ji)東西(xi)(xi)兩側各(ge)建有門(men)(men)樓,東曰“遠(yuan)眺”,西(xi)(xi)曰“云梯”。入(ru)門(men)(men)樓,沿級再登(deng),拾(shi)級而上(shang)至中樓臺坪及中、上(shang)樓層,近(jin)觀遠(yuan)眺,別有風光。大中樓門(men)(men)廳匾額題詞為(wei)明清兩代所傳,由元帥、書(shu)法(畫(hua))家啟功、李鋒、董壽平(ping)、段云、舒同、趙(zhao)樸初諸先生書(shu)寫,名(ming)人名(ming)作薈萃,胡(hu)為(wei)鼓樓增輝。
近景格局
門洞上方各鐫有(you)(you)石雕匾額,依其(qi)四面分(fen)別為(wei)(wei)(wei)“東(dong)臨(lin)雷霍”、“西控河汾”、“南通秦蜀”、“北達幽并”。這一組(zu)按明(ming)萬歷三(san)十(shi)一年(1603)原刻復(fu)制的匾文,蒼勁古樸,概括(kuo)了(le)(le)平陽府的重要地(di)理位(wei)置。大中樓(lou)基座的東(dong)西兩(liang)側,均建(jian)有(you)(you)石階(jie)門樓(lou)。登(deng)40級臺(tai)階(jie),可上到(dao)近10米高(gao)的臺(tai)坪,并由此入一廳,上二層,俯(fu)瞰(kan)全(quan)城(cheng)。樓(lou)閣乃木構巨制,為(wei)(wei)(wei)二層、三(san)檐(yan)、四級滴水(shui),十(shi)字(zi)歇(xie)(xie)(xie)山(shan)頂(ding)明(ming)式(shi)(shi)建(jian)筑,共有(you)(you)九條(tiao)屋脊(ji),即(ji)一條(tiao)正(zheng)脊(ji)、四條(tiao)垂脊(ji)和(he)四條(tiao)戧脊(ji),因此又稱九脊(ji)頂(ding)。由于(yu)其(qi)正(zheng)脊(ji)兩(liang)端到(dao)屋檐(yan)處中間折斷了(le)(le)一次(ci),分(fen)為(wei)(wei)(wei)垂脊(ji)和(he)戧脊(ji),好像“歇(xie)(xie)(xie)”了(le)(le)一歇(xie)(xie)(xie),其(qi)上半部(bu)(bu)分(fen)為(wei)(wei)(wei)懸山(shan)頂(ding)或硬山(shan)頂(ding)的樣(yang)式(shi)(shi),而下半部(bu)(bu)分(fen)則為(wei)(wei)(wei)廡(wu)殿頂(ding)的樣(yang)式(shi)(shi)。歇(xie)(xie)(xie)山(shan)頂(ding)結合了(le)(le)直(zhi)線(xian)和(he)斜線(xian),在(zai)視覺效果上給(gei)人以棱(leng)角分(fen)明(ming)、結構清晰明(ming)了(le)(le)的感覺。
屋(wu)(wu)頂(ding)(ding)兩側形(xing)成的三角形(xing)墻(qiang)面,叫做(zuo)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)花(hua)。山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)面有(you)(you)(you)(you)博風板(ban),山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)花(hua)和(he)博風之間有(you)(you)(you)(you)段(duan)距離,可形(xing)成陰影。為了使屋(wu)(wu)頂(ding)(ding)不過于(yu)龐大,山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)花(hua)從(cong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)面檐(yan)(yan)(yan)柱(zhu)中(zhong)線向內收進,屋(wu)(wu)脊上(shang)(shang)(shang)有(you)(you)(you)(you)各種脊獸裝飾,其中(zhong)正脊上(shang)(shang)(shang)有(you)(you)(you)(you)吻獸或望(wang)獸,垂(chui)脊上(shang)(shang)(shang)有(you)(you)(you)(you)垂(chui)獸,戧(chuang)脊上(shang)(shang)(shang)有(you)(you)(you)(you)戧(chuang)獸和(he)仙人走獸,其數量和(he)用法都是(shi)有(you)(you)(you)(you)嚴格等級(ji)限(xian)制(zhi)的。其中(zhong)重檐(yan)(yan)(yan)歇山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)等級(ji)高于(yu)單(dan)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)廡殿頂(ding)(ding),僅低(di)(di)于(yu)重檐(yan)(yan)(yan)廡殿頂(ding)(ding),而單(dan)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)歇山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)低(di)(di)于(yu)單(dan)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)廡殿頂(ding)(ding),只(zhi)有(you)(you)(you)(you)五品以(yi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)官吏的住宅正堂才能(neng)使用。歇山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)分單(dan)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)和(he)重檐(yan)(yan)(yan)兩種,所謂重檐(yan)(yan)(yan),就(jiu)是(shi)在基本歇山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)的下方,再加上(shang)(shang)(shang)一層(ceng)屋(wu)(wu)檐(yan)(yan)(yan),和(he)廡殿頂(ding)(ding)第二檐(yan)(yan)(yan)大致相同。例如(ru)天(tian)安(an)門(men)、故宮(gong)的太和(he)門(men)、保和(he)殿、乾清宮(gong)等就(jiu)是(shi)重檐(yan)(yan)(yan)歇山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding),妙應寺山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)門(men)、智化寺智化殿、臺(tai)灣臺(tai)北府城北門(men)則(ze)為單(dan)檐(yan)(yan)(yan)歇山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)。
鼓(gu)樓總(zong)高43.75米(mi)。支撐兩層(ceng)樓閣(ge)的12根通天(tian)大(da)柱,直徑均在一(yi)米(mi)左右(you)。游(you)客(ke)睹之(zhi)(zhi),無不驚(jing)嘆,一(yi)層(ceng)廳(ting)(ting)頂為(wei)天(tian)井(jing)式(shi)彩(cai)繪(hui)格(ge)板,精工描(miao)繪(hui)了孔雀開屏、祥龍盤旋的民族傳統圖案,金(jin)碧輝煌,猶(you)如(ru)宮(gong)殿;二層(ceng)梁架拱頂,形如(ru)八卦藻(zao)井(jing),四(si)壁皆為(wei)格(ge)棱(leng)窗(chuang),棱(leng)窗(chuang)上部的木格(ge)部位,以帝堯(yao)傳說為(wei)主,描(miao)繪(hui)上古故事60余幅(fu):或(huo)堯(yao)王訪賢,或(huo)大(da)禹鎖蚊(wen),或(huo)許(xu)由洗(xi)耳(er),無不色彩(cai)古雅,筆墨(mo)傳神。二廳(ting)(ting)外有回廊(lang),出廳(ting)(ting)憑欄(lan)四(si)顧(gu),臨汾之(zhi)(zhi)山(shan)光(guang)水色盡收眼(yan)底(di):鳥瞰(kan)市內,大(da)街小(xiao)巷姹紫嫣紅,花果(guo)城中鋪錦繡(xiu);放眼(yan)郊(jiao)外,遠山(shan)近(jin)水疊翠流碧,麥棉鄉里溢金(jin)銀。大(da)中樓究竟始建(jian)于何代,尚無文獻確證。據(ju)《北史李崇(chong)傳》記載:“兗土多劫(jie)盜,崇(chong)令村置一(yi)樓,樓懸一(yi)鼓(gu),盜發之(zhi)(zhi)處,雙槌亂擊,四(si)面諸村聞鼓(gu)皆守要路(lu),俄(e)頃之(zhi)(zhi)間聲(sheng)布百(bai)里,便爾擒送(song)。
平陽歷史
臨汾(fen)(fen)古稱平(ping)陽。遠在10萬年以(yi)前,臨汾(fen)(fen)人民的祖先——“丁村(cun)人”就生(sheng)息在汾(fen)(fen)河(he)兩岸。據堯(yao)典(dian)記載,帝堯(yao)建都(dou)平(ping)陽,故有堯(yao)都(dou)之稱傳世。傳說倉頡造字(zi)于此,也是東(dong)漢(han)時期(qi)名(ming)將(jiang)衛青(qing)、霍去病(bing)的故里。臨汾(fen)(fen)商周時稱冀(ji)州,春秋屬晉,戰國屬魏(wei),春秋時為(wei)河(he)東(dong)郡(jun)地,漢(han)代平(ping)陽縣,兩晉時期(qi)劉(liu)淵亦建都(dou)平(ping)陽,隋(sui)朝改為(wei)臨汾(fen)(fen)縣,沿(yan)用了下來。
鼓樓興建
諸州(zhou)置樓懸(xuan)鼓(gu)(gu),自崇始也。”李崇是北魏(wei)末山東兗(yan)州(zhou)刺史,既然北魏(wei)從(cong)山東兗(yan)州(zhou)開始,州(zhou)州(zhou)興(xing)起了(le)(le)建(jian)(jian)(jian)鼓(gu)(gu)樓,那(nei)么(me)作為晉州(zhou)治所的(de)平陽,于北魏(wei)始建(jian)(jian)(jian)鼓(gu)(gu)樓亦有可能。據史學界(jie)專家(jia)考證(zheng),平陽鼓(gu)(gu)樓有金代改建(jian)(jian)(jian)取名鐘樓之說,現在的(de)大(da)中樓上亦懸(xuan)有金明昌七年(1196)鑄造(zao)的(de)1口大(da)鐵鐘。以此(ci)推斷(duan),此(ci)樓晚建(jian)(jian)(jian)于北宋時期。隨(sui)著歲月的(de)流(liu)逝,城市(shi)的(de)發展,鼓(gu)(gu)樓的(de)作用(yong)逐(zhu)漸由防盜(dao)變為報時之用(yong),且因鼓(gu)(gu)樓均建(jian)(jian)(jian)于城市(shi)中心,可發揮人文景觀的(de)作用(yong),因此(ci)毀而復修(xiu)次(ci)數(shu)越多,建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑形制便愈壯美。據方(fang)志和碑碣記載,在歷臨(lin)汾鼓(gu)(gu)樓共修(xiu)過7次(ci)。自金改建(jian)(jian)(jian)往后,直到民國22年(1933)由各(ge)界(jie)人士捐資興(xing)工,使鼓(gu)(gu)樓又恢復了(le)(le)原貌。
戰火中重生
1948年(nian),解放戰(zhan)爭轉入戰(zhan)略反(fan)攻階(jie)段,司(si)令員率(lv)部(bu)包圍(wei)了臨(lin)汾城。在城內頑守的(de)閻軍,不(bu)顧市民的(de)反(fan)對,將修復(fu)(fu)僅15年(nian)的(de)鼓樓強行拆毀。自1984年(nian)9月至1987年(nian)5月,臨(lin)汾市成立修復(fu)(fu)鼓樓委員會(hui),按明代風(feng)格重新(xin)修復(fu)(fu)了鼓樓,并恢(hui)復(fu)(fu)了明代對鼓樓的(de)稱謂——大中樓。新(xin)修大中樓的(de)門廳匾(bian)額,基本(ben)上(shang)選用(yong)了明清時的(de)原有(you)匾(bian)詞(ci)。三層東、南兩面“太行形勝”、“云天(tian)咫尺”由元帥親筆(bi)(bi)題(ti)寫:西面“望于姑射”由前中國(guo)書(shu)法(fa)(fa)家協會(hui)啟功先(xian)生作(zuo)書(shu);北面“窗宿斗牛(niu)”由軍內書(shu)家李(li)鋒揮毫;二層4塊(kuai)門匾(bian),東面“紫(zi)氣東臨(lin)”出(chu)自洪洞籍(ji)中國(guo)書(shu)畫家董壽平(ping)老先(xian)生之(zhi)手(shou),西面“襟(jin)山帶河(he)”出(chu)自蒲縣籍(ji)革命(ming)老干(gan)部(bu)原國(guo)家計(ji)委副主(zhu)任(ren)段云筆(bi)(bi)下,南面“乾(qian)坤樓閣”為(wei)大書(shu)法(fa)(fa)家舒同(tong)先(xian)生之(zhi)作(zuo),北面“聲和擊壤(rang)”乃中國(guo)政協、佛學(xue)會(hui)會(hui)長(chang)、大書(shu)法(fa)(fa)家趙(zhao)樸初所書(shu)。