山(shan)西是面(mian)食之(zhi)鄉,面(mian)食種類繁多,其中以刀(dao)削面(mian)最為有(you)名,可(ke)謂(wei)“面(mian)食之(zhi)王”,它(ta)有(you)內虛外(wai)筋、柔軟光滑、易(yi)于消(xiao)化等特點(dian),與北(bei)京的打鹵(lu)面(mian)、山(shan)東的伊府面(mian)、武(wu)漢的熱干面(mian)、四川的擔擔面(mian)被譽為我(wo)國著名的五(wu)大(da)面(mian)食。
在山西各(ge)地的刀削面中,最出名的莫(mo)過于(yu)大同的刀削面,可稱“面食王中王”。
大(da)(da)同刀削(xue)(xue)面(mian)物美(mei)價廉(lian),色(se)、香、味俱全(quan),形成了獨(du)特的(de)大(da)(da)同風格,很多外地(di)朋友來到(dao)大(da)(da)同,在(zai)品(pin)嘗之(zhi)后,都(dou)贊不絕口。一些本地(di)游(you)子,在(zai)回(hui)到(dao)家鄉之(zhi)后,都(dou)要先趕去(qu)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)店,去(qu)吃一碗刀削(xue)(xue)面(mian),來解日夜思念(nian)之(zhi)情.
在大同(tong),刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)店比(bi)(bi)比(bi)(bi)皆是,比(bi)(bi)較出名(ming)的(de)(de)也(ye)有很多,如:東方削(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)、七中(zhong)刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)、東關刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)、小(xiao)南(nan)街刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)、老柴家(jia)刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)等。其(qi)中(zhong)“東關刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)”是大同(tong)刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)里最出名(ming)的(de)(de)一家(jia),很多外地客(ke)人寧(ning)可舍(she)棄(qi)大魚(yu)大肉的(de)(de)豪華(hua)宴(yan)席,也(ye)要來這里專(zhuan)門品嘗。據說,最熱鬧(nao)的(de)(de)時候這個店一天就用掉18袋白(bai)面(mian)(mian)(mian),賣出2000碗刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)。由此(ci)可見(jian)刀(dao)(dao)(dao)削(xue)(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)在大同(tong)的(de)(de)魅力(li)真的(de)(de)令人嘆(tan)為觀止。
大(da)同刀削(xue)面不(bu)僅在味道上征服了食客(ke),在經營理念上也是(shi)(shi)無(wu)與倫比的(de)(de)。在大(da)同地(di)區每(mei)家削(xue)面館都(dou)有(you)店(dian)主準備的(de)(de)免費(fei)(fei)咸(xian)菜(cai)供食客(ke)食用,主要是(shi)(shi)酸(suan)菜(cai)、黑咸(xian)菜(cai)(一(yi)(yi)種咸(xian)菜(cai)),又推出了多種口味的(de)(de)涼(liang)拌(ban)菜(cai),雖然涼(liang)拌(ban)菜(cai)收費(fei)(fei),但五角、一(yi)(yi)元的(de)(de)價(jia)格還(huan)是(shi)(shi)很便宜的(de)(de)。另外,大(da)同刀削(xue)面還(huan)有(you)多種特色的(de)(de)美(mei)食供食客(ke)品嘗(chang),較常見的(de)(de)有(you)丸子、鹵雞蛋(dan)、鹵豆腐、鹵豆干等等,價(jia)格都(dou)不(bu)貴,也是(shi)(shi)五角、一(yi)(yi)塊不(bu)等。一(yi)(yi)塊不(bu)錯(cuo)的(de)(de)燒肉才幾塊錢(qian)。在面館里,美(mei)美(mei)地(di)吃(chi)上一(yi)(yi)頓不(bu)過八(ba)九元,這是(shi)(shi)在其他地(di)方所享受不(bu)到的(de)(de)。這體現了大(da)同人(ren)的(de)(de)實在。
大同的(de)(de)刀(dao)削(xue)面之(zhi)所(suo)以(yi)會獨樹一幟(zhi),主要與它的(de)(de)做(zuo)工有關系,首先刀(dao)削(xue)面對和面的(de)(de)技(ji)術(shu)要求較嚴,水、面的(de)(de)比例,要求準(zhun)確,一般是一斤面三(san)兩(liang)水,打成(cheng)面穗,再揉(rou)成(cheng)面團,然后用(yong)濕布蒙(meng)住,餳(xing)半(ban)小時(shi)后再揉(rou),直到(dao)揉(rou)勻、揉(rou)軟、揉(rou)光。如果揉(rou)面功(gong)夫不(bu)到(dao),削(xue)時(shi)容易(yi)粘刀(dao)、斷條。
刀(dao)削面(mian)之妙在刀(dao)功。刀(dao),一(yi)般不使用萊刀(dao),要用特制(zhi)的弧形削刀(dao)。
先(xian)(xian)用面(mian)(mian)、水(shui)(shui)5∶3的(de)比例和好面(mian)(mian)(水(shui)(shui)溫為冬熱、夏涼、春秋(qiu)溫),然后(hou)用濕布蓋住(zhu),醒20分鐘(zhong)。把醒好的(de)面(mian)(mian)團揉成橢(tuo)圓形(xing)面(mian)(mian)塊放在面(mian)(mian)案上(shang),左臂托案,右(you)手(shou)拿砍面(mian)(mian)刀(dao)(dao)(砍面(mian)(mian)刀(dao)(dao)是(shi)一種特制(zhi)帶把的(de)刀(dao)(dao),刀(dao)(dao)片很薄,刀(dao)(dao)的(de)重(zhong)量(liang)輕),用右(you)手(shou)的(de)四指握住(zhu)刀(dao)(dao)把,用小拇指頂(ding)住(zhu)刀(dao)(dao)柄頭,砍面(mian)(mian)時(shi)先(xian)(xian)從面(mian)(mian)塊的(de)里端開刀(dao)(dao),第二刀(dao)(dao)接前(qian)部(bu)刀(dao)(dao)口,用前(qian)挑后(hou)砍的(de)方式砍下(xia)一根根長約30厘米的(de)面(mian)(mian)條下(xia)入鍋。注意出力(li)要(yao)平(ping),用力(li)要(yao)勻,這(zhe)樣削(xue)出的(de)面(mian)(mian)葉(xie)兒,一葉(xie)連一葉(xie),恰似流星趕(gan)月(yue),在空中劃出一道弧形(xing)白線,面(mian)(mian)葉(xie)落入湯鍋,湯滾面(mian)(mian)翻,又像銀魚戲水(shui)(shui),煞是(shi)好看,熟練的(de)廚師,每分鐘(zhong)能(neng)削(xue)一百多(duo)刀(dao)(dao),每條面(mian)(mian)葉(xie)的(de)長度,恰好都是(shi)六(liu)寸。
削(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)與(yu)抻面(mian)(mian)(mian)、撥魚、刀(dao)(dao)撥面(mian)(mian)(mian)并稱為(wei)山(shan)西(xi)(xi)四大面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)。清末《素食(shi)(shi)說略》已有(you)載。傳統的操(cao)作方法是(shi)一手(shou)托面(mian)(mian)(mian),一手(shou)拿刀(dao)(dao),直接削(xue)到開水鍋里。1958年(nian)山(shan)西(xi)(xi)省財資(zi)系(xi)統在(zai)(zai)省城太原(yuan)技術(shu)比武時(shi),高(gao)手(shou)們削(xue)出的面(mian)(mian)(mian)條,每條長21厘(li)米左右(you),厚0.2―0.4厘(li)米。每分鐘削(xue)118刀(dao)(dao),每小(xiao)時(shi)可削(xue)2500克(ke)面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉揉成的濕面(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan),看(kan)得人們眼花繚亂,贊(zan)不(bu)絕口。有(you)順口溜贊(zan)曰:“一葉(xie)(xie)落(luo)鍋一葉(xie)(xie)飄(piao),一葉(xie)(xie)離面(mian)(mian)(mian)又出刀(dao)(dao),銀魚落(luo)水翻白浪(lang),柳葉(xie)(xie)乘風下(xia)樹梢。”1983年(nian)5月,日本國明星食(shi)(shi)品株式會社社員(yuan)八(ba)原(yuan)昌元先(xian)生專程來太原(yuan)拍(pai)攝(she)面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)制作電視片時(shi),參觀了晉陽飯店、太原(yuan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)店的師傅(fu)們的精湛技術(shu)表演后說:“世界(jie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)在(zai)(zai)中(zhong)國,中(zhong)國面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)在(zai)(zai)山(shan)西(xi)(xi),太原(yuan)不(bu)愧(kui)是(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)的故鄉”。
傳統(tong)的操作(zuo)方法是一(yi)手(shou)托面(mian)(mian),一(yi)手(shou)拿刀(dao),直(zhi)接削(xue)(xue)到開水鍋里,其要訣是:“刀(dao)不離(li)面(mian)(mian),面(mian)(mian)不離(li)刀(dao),胳(ge)膊直(zhi)硬(ying)手(shou)平(ping),手(shou)端一(yi)條線,一(yi)棱(leng)趕一(yi)棱(leng),平(ping)刀(dao)是扁條,彎刀(dao)是三棱(leng)。”要說吃了(le)刀(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)是飽了(le)口(kou)福,那(nei)么觀看刀(dao)削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)則飽了(le)眼福。1985年山西(xi)財貿系統(tong)在太原技術(shu)比武時,飲食行(xing)業(ye)的削(xue)(xue)面(mian)(mian)高手(shou)每分(fen)鐘削(xue)(xue)118刀(dao),每小時可削(xue)(xue)25公(gong)斤面(mian)(mian)粉的濕面(mian)(mian)團,看得人眼花繚亂。有順口(kou)溜贊曰:“一(yi)葉落(luo)鍋一(yi)葉飄(piao),一(yi)葉離(li)面(mian)(mian)又出刀(dao),銀魚落(luo)水翻白浪,柳葉乘(cheng)風下樹梢(shao)。”
刀(dao)削(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)同北京(jing)的(de)(de)(de)打鹵(lu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、山東的(de)(de)(de)伊府(fu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、武漢的(de)(de)(de)熱干面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、四川(chuan)的(de)(de)(de)擔(dan)擔(dan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),同稱為(wei)中(zhong)國五大(da)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食名品,在(zai)國內外享有盛譽。關于刀(dao)削(xue)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)還有一(yi)(yi)個古(gu)老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)的(de)(de)(de)傳說(shuo)(shuo)。蒙古(gu)韃(da)靼(da)(da)侵占中(zhong)原后(hou)(hou),建立(li)元(yuan)朝(chao)。為(wei)防(fang)止“漢人”造反(fan)起(qi)義,他們將家(jia)家(jia)戶戶的(de)(de)(de)金屬全部沒收(shou),并規定(ding)10戶用(yong)(yong)(yong)廚(chu)刀(dao)一(yi)(yi)把,切(qie)(qie)菜做飯輪流使(shi)用(yong)(yong)(yong),用(yong)(yong)(yong)后(hou)(hou)再交(jiao)回(hui)(hui)韃(da)靼(da)(da)保管。一(yi)(yi)天中(zhong)午,一(yi)(yi)位老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)婆(po)婆(po)和(he)好面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)后(hou)(hou),讓(rang)老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)漢去取刀(dao),結果(guo)刀(dao)被別(bie)人取走,老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)漢只好返(fan)回(hui)(hui)。在(zai)出(chu)韃(da)靼(da)(da)的(de)(de)(de)大(da)門時,老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)漢的(de)(de)(de)腳被一(yi)(yi)塊(kuai)薄(bo)鐵(tie)(tie)皮(pi)(pi)碰了(le)(le)一(yi)(yi)下,他順手(shou)撿起(qi)來(lai)揣在(zai)懷(huai)里。回(hui)(hui)家(jia)后(hou)(hou),鍋(guo)開得直(zhi)響,全家(jia)人等刀(dao)切(qie)(qie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條吃,可是刀(dao)沒取回(hui)(hui)來(lai),老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)漢急得團(tuan)團(tuan)轉,忽然想起(qi)懷(huai)里的(de)(de)(de)鐵(tie)(tie)皮(pi)(pi),就取出(chu)來(lai)說(shuo)(shuo):就用(yong)(yong)(yong)這個鐵(tie)(tie)皮(pi)(pi)切(qie)(qie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)吧。老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)婆(po)婆(po)一(yi)(yi)看(kan),鐵(tie)(tie)皮(pi)(pi)薄(bo)而軟(ruan)(ruan),嘟囔著說(shuo)(shuo):“這樣軟(ruan)(ruan)的(de)(de)(de)東西(xi)怎能切(qie)(qie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條?”老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)漢氣憤地說(shuo)(shuo):“切(qie)(qie)不動就砍(kan)。”“砍(kan)”字提醒了(le)(le)老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)婆(po),她(ta)把面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)放在(zai)一(yi)(yi)塊(kuai)木板上,左(zuo)手(shou)端起(qi),右手(shou)持(chi)鐵(tie)(tie)片,站在(zai)開水(shui)鍋(guo)邊“砍(kan)”面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),一(yi)(yi)片片面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)葉(xie)落入鍋(guo)內,煮熟后(hou)(hou)撈到碗(wan)里,澆上鹵(lu)汁讓(rang)老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)漢先吃,老(lao)(lao)(lao)(lao)漢邊吃邊說(shuo)(shuo):“好得很,好得很,以后(hou)(hou)不用(yong)(yong)(yong)再去取廚(chu)刀(dao)切(qie)(qie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)了(le)(le)。”這樣一(yi)(yi)傳十,十傳百,傳遍(bian)了(le)(le)晉(jin)中(zhong)大(da)地。
后來,“鳳陽”出了(le)朱皇帝(朱元璋)統一了(le)中國(guo),建(jian)立明(ming)朝,這種(zhong)“砍面”流傳于社會(hui)小攤販(fan),又(you)經過多次(ci)改革,演(yan)變為刀削面。刀削面柔中有(you)硬,軟中有(you)韌,澆鹵、或(huo)炒或(huo)涼拌,均有(you)獨特風(feng)味(wei)。