永(yong)河(he)皮子(zi)(zi)即是湖(hu)北(bei)省紅(hong)安(an)縣永(yong)佳河(he)鎮生產(chan)的(de)特色皮子(zi)(zi),永(yong)河(he)皮子(zi)(zi)因其(qi)味美香(xiang)甜(tian),肉厚香(xiang)嫩而(er)譽滿紅(hong)安(an)乃至(zhi)湖(hu)北(bei),成(cheng)為(wei)中國第(di)一(yi)將軍(jun)縣——湖(hu)北(bei)紅(hong)安(an)的(de)一(yi)大(da)特產(chan),深受廣大(da)紅(hong)安(an)人民的(de)喜愛(ai)。2014年9月17日,紅(hong)安(an)縣“紅(hong)安(an)大(da)布”“永(yong)河(he)皮子(zi)(zi)”兩個產(chan)品分別通過了國家地(di)理標志保護(hu)產(chan)品技(ji)術(shu)審查。至(zhi)此,紅(hong)安(an)被國家質量監督檢(jian)驗檢(jian)疫總(zong)局批準的(de)地(di)理標志產(chan)品總(zong)數達4個。
食品營養
1.永河(he)皮子中(zhong)含有豐富蛋(dan)白(bai)(bai)質,而(er)且豆(dou)腐蛋(dan)白(bai)(bai)屬完全蛋(dan)白(bai)(bai),不僅含有人體(ti)必需的(de)8種(zhong)氨基酸,而(er)且其比例也接(jie)近(jin)人體(ti)需要(yao),營(ying)養(yang)價值較高;
2. 永河皮子(zi)中含有(you)的卵磷脂可(ke)除掉(diao)附在血管(guan)壁(bi)上的膽(dan)固醇(chun),防止(zhi)血管(guan)硬化,預(yu)防心血管(guan)疾病,保護心臟;
3. 永河皮子(zi)中含有(you)多種礦物質,補(bu)充鈣質,防止因缺(que)鈣引起的骨(gu)(gu)質疏(shu)松,促進骨(gu)(gu)骼(ge)發(fa)育,對小兒、老(lao)人的骨(gu)(gu) 骼(ge)生長極為有(you)利。
生產制作
制(zhi)作永河皮(pi)子(zi)要經過(guo)泡豆、磨豆、篩漿(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)、熬漿(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)、點漿(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)、收(shou)漿(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)、壓榨等22道工序,只有不怕(pa)紛繁復雜和勞心費(fei)力,才能做出好(hao)的(de)皮(pi)子(zi),從豆粒到豆漿(jiang)(jiang)(jiang),再到豆腐腦和千張。新鮮皮(pi)子(zi)曬干后可長期存放,用(yong)水泡開即可食用(yong),老(lao)百姓十分(fen)喜(xi)歡吃(chi),待(dai)客過(guo)節常買皮(pi)子(zi)作為(wei)下酒佳肴(yao)。
永(yong)河的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)制作簡單,主要(yao)(yao)(yao)環節有四種:一(yi)是(shi)浸豆(dou),將豆(dou)浸泡在(zai)水(shui)(shui)(shui)里(li),要(yao)(yao)(yao)將豆(dou)浸得圓飽(bao)(bao)飽(bao)(bao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de),再進行淘洗。二是(shi)磨(mo)(mo)豆(dou),傳統(tong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)方法(fa)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)石(shi)磨(mo)(mo)磨(mo)(mo)。金燦燦的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)黃豆(dou)從磨(mo)(mo)眼灌進去,白花花的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)豆(dou)漿從磨(mo)(mo)里(li)雨柱般(ban)撒下來。如今,加(jia)工用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)電磨(mo)(mo),既省(sheng)力,又能(neng)保證豆(dou)漿的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)質(zhi)量。三(san)是(shi)點漿,這是(shi)最關鍵(jian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)環,皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)、豆(dou)腐(fu)好壞(huai)在(zai)此一(yi)舉。豆(dou)漿煮(zhu)開后,倒(dao)在(zai)缸里(li),再用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)熟(shu)石(shi)膏(gao)水(shui)(shui)(shui)點漿。一(yi)手(shou)(shou)掇石(shi)膏(gao)盆,一(yi)手(shou)(shou)捏長把瓢,邊倒(dao)石(shi)膏(gao)水(shui)(shui)(shui),邊用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)瓢把在(zai)漿中(zhong)攪(jiao)動。涓涓細流流入缸中(zhong),豆(dou)漿如開水(shui)(shui)(shui)沸(fei)騰不止(zhi)。四澆皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi),澆皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)關鍵(jian)是(shi)一(yi)個“澆”字。首先將干(gan)巴巴的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)豆(dou)漿打在(zai)小桶(tong)里(li),然后用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)竹把將其(qi)搗(dao)亂,用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)碗舀到皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)廂里(li),一(yi)碗水(shui)(shui)(shui)一(yi)張皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi),舀多舀少,是(shi)決定皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)薄厚干(gan)濕(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)關鍵(jian),因而要(yao)(yao)(yao)把握火候。永(yong)佳河皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)加(jia)工其(qi)妙(miao)(miao)(miao)在(zai)水(shui)(shui)(shui)中(zhong)。大(da)別(bie)山的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)山泉,七拐八(ba)彎,源源不斷;流到永(yong)佳河。河水(shui)(shui)(shui)衛生清淳,水(shui)(shui)(shui)質(zhi)適宜于(yu)皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)加(jia)工。是(shi)年,有位武漢人(ren)來永(yong)佳河做客,吃中(zhong)了皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi),問其(qi)加(jia)工奧妙(miao)(miao)(miao),皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)師傅(fu)曰(yue):“其(qi)妙(miao)(miao)(miao)在(zai)水(shui)(shui)(shui)中(zhong)”。之(zhi)后,客人(ren)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)車(che)裝幾桶(tong)水(shui)(shui)(shui)到武漢加(jia)工皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi),皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)果然不同凡響,別(bie)出一(yi)味。
食用指南
永河(he)的皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)有多種吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)法(fa):生吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi),鄉下豆腐皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)師傅最喜(xi)歡這種吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)法(fa)。皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)剛剛從皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)布上撕下來,香氣撲鼻,將其包點(dian)紅糖、蔥蒜之(zhi)類,吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)起來饒(rao)有風味。炒吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi),這是常見一(yi)種吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)法(fa)。一(yi)般配上小白菜(cai)(cai)、菠菜(cai)(cai)等,盛(sheng)在盤里,“一(yi)清二白”。煨吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi),將皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)切(qie)成三角形,配上豬排,再(zai)用沙(sha)罐(guan)煨烤。這種菜(cai)(cai)當地叫“皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)煲”,吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)時(shi)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)油滴(di)滴(di)光(guang)亮(liang)亮(liang),更是鮮嫩可(ke)口。“臭”吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)。用適(shi)當的溫(wen)度,讓皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)發酵,過(guo)上三五天,揭開(kai)一(yi)看(kan),皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)長(chang)出絨絨的白毛(mao),發出誘(you)人香味。這種皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)將其炒吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi),味道(dao)可(ke)口,勝于魚肉。酥吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi),將皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)切(qie)成菱形,加鹽曬(shai)干,便(bian)成“皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)果”。吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)時(shi)用油酥,脆口回味,是早餐的好菜(cai)(cai)肴。
飲食文化
永(yong)河(he)皮子俗(su)稱永(yong)河(he)千(qian)張,在(zai)北方稱為豆(dou)腐皮,南(nan)(nan)方又(you)叫百葉,屬豆(dou)制品(pin)。永(yong)河(he)皮子歷史悠久(jiu),相傳(chuan)豆(dou)腐乃漢代淮(huai)南(nan)(nan)王劉安所(suo)創,至今已有兩千(qian)多年。[2]在(zai)紅安縣一(yi)些地方,一(yi)直流傳(chuan)著(zhu)過年“做皮子”的(de)習俗(su),“永(yong)河(he)皮子”最具獨特風味。春節(jie)臨近(jin),永(yong)佳河(he)鎮的(de)皮子作坊又(you)開始熱鬧(nao)起(qi)來,肉厚、香嫩的(de)“永(yong)河(he)皮子”成為人們團(tuan)年飯(fan)里(li)的(de)一(yi)道特色佳肴。