永(yong)河皮子(zi)即(ji)是(shi)湖北省紅(hong)安(an)(an)縣(xian)永(yong)佳河鎮(zhen)生產(chan)(chan)的特色皮子(zi),永(yong)河皮子(zi)因其味美香甜,肉厚香嫩而譽滿紅(hong)安(an)(an)乃至(zhi)湖北,成為中國(guo)(guo)第一將軍縣(xian)——湖北紅(hong)安(an)(an)的一大(da)特產(chan)(chan),深(shen)受廣大(da)紅(hong)安(an)(an)人民的喜愛(ai)。2014年9月(yue)17日,紅(hong)安(an)(an)縣(xian)“紅(hong)安(an)(an)大(da)布”“永(yong)河皮子(zi)”兩個產(chan)(chan)品分別通過了國(guo)(guo)家(jia)地理標(biao)志保護產(chan)(chan)品技術審查。至(zhi)此,紅(hong)安(an)(an)被國(guo)(guo)家(jia)質(zhi)量監督檢驗檢疫總局批準的地理標(biao)志產(chan)(chan)品總數達(da)4個。
食品營養
1.永河皮子(zi)中含(han)有豐富(fu)蛋(dan)白質,而且(qie)豆(dou)腐蛋(dan)白屬完(wan)全(quan)蛋(dan)白,不僅含(han)有人體(ti)必需的8種氨基酸,而且(qie)其(qi)比例也(ye)接近人體(ti)需要(yao),營養價值較高;
2. 永河(he)皮子中含有(you)的卵(luan)磷(lin)脂可除(chu)掉附在血管(guan)(guan)壁上的膽(dan)固醇,防止血管(guan)(guan)硬(ying)化,預(yu)防心血管(guan)(guan)疾病(bing),保護心臟;
3. 永河皮(pi)子中含有多種礦物(wu)質(zhi),補充鈣質(zhi),防(fang)止因缺鈣引起的(de)(de)骨(gu)質(zhi)疏(shu)松,促進骨(gu)骼發育,對(dui)小(xiao)兒、老(lao)人的(de)(de)骨(gu) 骼生長極為有利。
生產制作
制作(zuo)永河皮(pi)(pi)子要經(jing)過(guo)泡(pao)豆(dou)(dou)、磨豆(dou)(dou)、篩漿(jiang)、熬(ao)漿(jiang)、點(dian)漿(jiang)、收漿(jiang)、壓榨等(deng)22道工序,只(zhi)有(you)不怕(pa)紛繁(fan)復雜和勞心費力(li),才(cai)能做(zuo)出好的皮(pi)(pi)子,從豆(dou)(dou)粒到豆(dou)(dou)漿(jiang),再到豆(dou)(dou)腐腦(nao)和千張。新鮮皮(pi)(pi)子曬干后可長期(qi)存放,用水(shui)泡(pao)開即(ji)可食(shi)用,老(lao)百姓十分喜歡吃,待客過(guo)節常買皮(pi)(pi)子作(zuo)為(wei)下酒佳肴。
永(yong)河(he)的(de)(de)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)制作(zuo)簡單,主要環(huan)節有四種:一(yi)(yi)是(shi)浸豆,將豆浸泡在(zai)水(shui)里(li)(li),要將豆浸得圓飽飽的(de)(de),再(zai)(zai)進(jin)行(xing)淘洗(xi)。二是(shi)磨(mo)(mo)豆,傳統的(de)(de)方法用(yong)(yong)石(shi)磨(mo)(mo)磨(mo)(mo)。金燦燦的(de)(de)黃豆從磨(mo)(mo)眼灌進(jin)去,白花花的(de)(de)豆漿(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)從磨(mo)(mo)里(li)(li)雨柱般撒下(xia)來(lai)。如今,加工(gong)(gong)用(yong)(yong)電(dian)磨(mo)(mo),既省力(li),又能(neng)保(bao)證豆漿(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)的(de)(de)質(zhi)量。三(san)是(shi)點漿(jiang)(jiang)(jiang),這(zhe)是(shi)最關鍵的(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)環(huan),皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)、豆腐好壞在(zai)此一(yi)(yi)舉。豆漿(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)煮開后,倒在(zai)缸(gang)里(li)(li),再(zai)(zai)用(yong)(yong)熟石(shi)膏(gao)水(shui)點漿(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)。一(yi)(yi)手掇石(shi)膏(gao)盆,一(yi)(yi)手捏長把(ba)瓢(piao),邊倒石(shi)膏(gao)水(shui),邊用(yong)(yong)瓢(piao)把(ba)在(zai)漿(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)中(zhong)(zhong)攪動(dong)。涓(juan)涓(juan)細(xi)流流入(ru)缸(gang)中(zhong)(zhong),豆漿(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)如開水(shui)沸騰不(bu)止。四澆(jiao)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi),澆(jiao)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)關鍵是(shi)一(yi)(yi)個“澆(jiao)”字。首先將干(gan)巴巴的(de)(de)豆漿(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)打(da)在(zai)小桶里(li)(li),然后用(yong)(yong)竹把(ba)將其(qi)搗亂,用(yong)(yong)碗舀(yao)(yao)到皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)廂(xiang)里(li)(li),一(yi)(yi)碗水(shui)一(yi)(yi)張皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi),舀(yao)(yao)多舀(yao)(yao)少,是(shi)決定皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)薄厚干(gan)濕的(de)(de)關鍵,因而(er)要把(ba)握火候。永(yong)佳河(he)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)加工(gong)(gong)其(qi)妙(miao)(miao)在(zai)水(shui)中(zhong)(zhong)。大別山(shan)的(de)(de)山(shan)泉(quan),七拐八彎,源源不(bu)斷;流到永(yong)佳河(he)。河(he)水(shui)衛生清(qing)淳,水(shui)質(zhi)適宜(yi)于皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)加工(gong)(gong)。是(shi)年(nian),有位武(wu)漢人來(lai)永(yong)佳河(he)做客(ke),吃中(zhong)(zhong)了(le)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi),問(wen)其(qi)加工(gong)(gong)奧妙(miao)(miao),皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)師傅曰:“其(qi)妙(miao)(miao)在(zai)水(shui)中(zhong)(zhong)”。之(zhi)后,客(ke)人用(yong)(yong)車裝幾桶水(shui)到武(wu)漢加工(gong)(gong)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi),皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)果然不(bu)同凡響,別出(chu)一(yi)(yi)味。
食用指南
永河(he)的皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)有多種(zhong)吃(chi)(chi)法:生吃(chi)(chi),鄉下豆腐皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)師傅(fu)最喜歡這種(zhong)吃(chi)(chi)法。皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)剛剛從皮(pi)(pi)(pi)布(bu)上撕下來,香(xiang)氣撲鼻,將其(qi)包點紅(hong)糖、蔥蒜(suan)之類,吃(chi)(chi)起來饒有風味。炒吃(chi)(chi),這是常見一(yi)(yi)種(zhong)吃(chi)(chi)法。一(yi)(yi)般配上小白菜(cai)、菠菜(cai)等,盛在盤(pan)里,“一(yi)(yi)清二白”。煨吃(chi)(chi),將皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)切成三角形(xing)(xing),配上豬排,再用沙罐煨烤。這種(zhong)菜(cai)當地叫“皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)煲(bao)”,吃(chi)(chi)時皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)油(you)滴滴光亮亮,更(geng)是鮮嫩可口。“臭”吃(chi)(chi)。用適當的溫度(du),讓(rang)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)發酵,過(guo)上三五天(tian),揭開一(yi)(yi)看,皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)長出(chu)絨絨的白毛(mao),發出(chu)誘人(ren)香(xiang)味。這種(zhong)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)將其(qi)炒吃(chi)(chi),味道(dao)可口,勝于魚肉。酥(su)吃(chi)(chi),將皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)切成菱形(xing)(xing),加鹽曬干(gan),便成“皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)果(guo)”。吃(chi)(chi)時用油(you)酥(su),脆口回(hui)味,是早餐的好菜(cai)肴。
飲食文化
永(yong)(yong)河(he)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)俗(su)稱永(yong)(yong)河(he)千張,在北方(fang)(fang)稱為豆(dou)腐皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi),南方(fang)(fang)又(you)叫百葉,屬豆(dou)制品。永(yong)(yong)河(he)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)歷(li)史悠(you)久,相傳豆(dou)腐乃(nai)漢代淮南王劉安所(suo)創,至今已有兩千多年。[2]在紅安縣(xian)一(yi)些地(di)方(fang)(fang),一(yi)直流傳著過年“做皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)”的(de)習俗(su),“永(yong)(yong)河(he)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)”最具獨特風味。春節(jie)臨近,永(yong)(yong)佳(jia)河(he)鎮的(de)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)作坊(fang)又(you)開始熱鬧起(qi)來,肉厚(hou)、香嫩的(de)“永(yong)(yong)河(he)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)”成(cheng)為人們(men)團年飯里的(de)一(yi)道(dao)特色佳(jia)肴。