永(yong)(yong)河(he)皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)即是(shi)湖(hu)北(bei)省紅(hong)(hong)安縣永(yong)(yong)佳河(he)鎮(zhen)生產的特色皮(pi)子(zi)(zi),永(yong)(yong)河(he)皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)因其(qi)味美香甜,肉厚香嫩而譽滿紅(hong)(hong)安乃至湖(hu)北(bei),成為中(zhong)國(guo)第一將軍縣——湖(hu)北(bei)紅(hong)(hong)安的一大(da)特產,深受廣大(da)紅(hong)(hong)安人民的喜愛。2014年9月17日,紅(hong)(hong)安縣“紅(hong)(hong)安大(da)布”“永(yong)(yong)河(he)皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)”兩個產品(pin)分別通(tong)過了國(guo)家地理標志(zhi)保護產品(pin)技術審(shen)查(cha)。至此,紅(hong)(hong)安被(bei)國(guo)家質量監督檢驗檢疫總局(ju)批準的地理標志(zhi)產品(pin)總數達(da)4個。
食品營養
1.永河皮(pi)子(zi)中(zhong)含有豐富蛋(dan)白(bai)質,而且(qie)豆腐蛋(dan)白(bai)屬完全蛋(dan)白(bai),不僅含有人(ren)(ren)體(ti)必需(xu)的8種氨基酸,而且(qie)其(qi)比(bi)例也接近人(ren)(ren)體(ti)需(xu)要,營養價值較高;
2. 永(yong)河皮子中含有的卵磷脂(zhi)可除掉附(fu)在血管(guan)壁(bi)上的膽固(gu)醇,防止血管(guan)硬化,預防心血管(guan)疾病,保護心臟;
3. 永河皮(pi)子中含(han)有(you)多種礦物質(zhi),補充鈣質(zhi),防(fang)止因缺鈣引起的(de)骨質(zhi)疏松(song),促進骨骼發(fa)育(yu),對小兒(er)、老人的(de)骨 骼生長極為有(you)利(li)。
生產制作
制作永(yong)河皮子(zi)要(yao)經過泡豆、磨(mo)豆、篩漿、熬漿、點(dian)漿、收漿、壓(ya)榨(zha)等22道工序,只有(you)不怕紛繁(fan)復雜和(he)勞心費力,才能做出好的(de)皮子(zi),從豆粒到(dao)豆漿,再到(dao)豆腐腦和(he)千張。新鮮皮子(zi)曬干后可長期存放,用水(shui)泡開即可食用,老百姓十(shi)分喜(xi)歡吃,待客過節常買皮子(zi)作為下(xia)酒(jiu)佳(jia)肴。
永(yong)(yong)河的(de)(de)(de)(de)皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)制(zhi)作簡單,主要環節有四(si)種:一(yi)(yi)是(shi)浸(jin)豆(dou),將豆(dou)浸(jin)泡(pao)在(zai)水(shui)(shui)(shui)里,要將豆(dou)浸(jin)得圓飽飽的(de)(de)(de)(de),再(zai)進行淘洗(xi)。二是(shi)磨豆(dou),傳統的(de)(de)(de)(de)方(fang)法用(yong)(yong)(yong)石磨磨。金燦燦的(de)(de)(de)(de)黃豆(dou)從(cong)磨眼灌進去,白花花的(de)(de)(de)(de)豆(dou)漿(jiang)(jiang)從(cong)磨里雨(yu)柱般撒下(xia)來。如今,加(jia)(jia)工(gong)(gong)(gong)用(yong)(yong)(yong)電磨,既(ji)省力,又能保(bao)證豆(dou)漿(jiang)(jiang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)質量。三是(shi)點(dian)漿(jiang)(jiang),這是(shi)最關(guan)(guan)鍵(jian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)環,皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)、豆(dou)腐好壞在(zai)此(ci)一(yi)(yi)舉。豆(dou)漿(jiang)(jiang)煮(zhu)開后,倒在(zai)缸(gang)里,再(zai)用(yong)(yong)(yong)熟(shu)石膏水(shui)(shui)(shui)點(dian)漿(jiang)(jiang)。一(yi)(yi)手掇(duo)石膏盆(pen),一(yi)(yi)手捏(nie)長把瓢(piao)(piao),邊(bian)倒石膏水(shui)(shui)(shui),邊(bian)用(yong)(yong)(yong)瓢(piao)(piao)把在(zai)漿(jiang)(jiang)中攪動(dong)。涓涓細流流入缸(gang)中,豆(dou)漿(jiang)(jiang)如開水(shui)(shui)(shui)沸騰(teng)不(bu)止。四(si)澆(jiao)皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi),澆(jiao)皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)關(guan)(guan)鍵(jian)是(shi)一(yi)(yi)個“澆(jiao)”字。首先(xian)將干巴巴的(de)(de)(de)(de)豆(dou)漿(jiang)(jiang)打在(zai)小桶里,然后用(yong)(yong)(yong)竹(zhu)把將其(qi)搗亂,用(yong)(yong)(yong)碗(wan)舀(yao)到(dao)皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)廂(xiang)里,一(yi)(yi)碗(wan)水(shui)(shui)(shui)一(yi)(yi)張皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi),舀(yao)多舀(yao)少(shao),是(shi)決定皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)薄厚干濕(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)關(guan)(guan)鍵(jian),因而要把握火(huo)候。永(yong)(yong)佳(jia)河皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)加(jia)(jia)工(gong)(gong)(gong)其(qi)妙(miao)(miao)在(zai)水(shui)(shui)(shui)中。大別山的(de)(de)(de)(de)山泉,七拐八彎,源源不(bu)斷(duan);流到(dao)永(yong)(yong)佳(jia)河。河水(shui)(shui)(shui)衛生清淳,水(shui)(shui)(shui)質適(shi)宜于皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)加(jia)(jia)工(gong)(gong)(gong)。是(shi)年,有位武漢人(ren)來永(yong)(yong)佳(jia)河做客,吃中了皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi),問其(qi)加(jia)(jia)工(gong)(gong)(gong)奧(ao)妙(miao)(miao),皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)師(shi)傅曰:“其(qi)妙(miao)(miao)在(zai)水(shui)(shui)(shui)中”。之后,客人(ren)用(yong)(yong)(yong)車裝幾桶水(shui)(shui)(shui)到(dao)武漢加(jia)(jia)工(gong)(gong)(gong)皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi),皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)果然不(bu)同(tong)凡響,別出一(yi)(yi)味。
食用指南
永河的皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)有多種吃法(fa):生吃,鄉下豆腐(fu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)師(shi)傅(fu)最喜歡這(zhe)(zhe)種吃法(fa)。皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)剛(gang)剛(gang)從皮(pi)(pi)(pi)布上(shang)撕(si)下來(lai),香氣撲鼻,將(jiang)其包點紅糖(tang)、蔥蒜之類,吃起來(lai)饒有風味(wei)。炒吃,這(zhe)(zhe)是(shi)常見一(yi)(yi)種吃法(fa)。一(yi)(yi)般(ban)配上(shang)小白菜(cai)、菠菜(cai)等(deng),盛在盤里,“一(yi)(yi)清二白”。煨吃,將(jiang)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)切(qie)成三角形,配上(shang)豬排(pai),再用沙罐煨烤。這(zhe)(zhe)種菜(cai)當地叫“皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)煲(bao)”,吃時(shi)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)油滴滴光亮亮,更是(shi)鮮嫩可口。“臭”吃。用適當的溫度,讓皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)發酵,過上(shang)三五天,揭開一(yi)(yi)看,皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)長出絨絨的白毛,發出誘人香味(wei)。這(zhe)(zhe)種皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)將(jiang)其炒吃,味(wei)道可口,勝(sheng)于魚肉(rou)。酥吃,將(jiang)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)切(qie)成菱形,加鹽曬干,便成“皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)果”。吃時(shi)用油酥,脆口回(hui)味(wei),是(shi)早餐的好菜(cai)肴。
飲食文化
永(yong)(yong)河皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)俗稱永(yong)(yong)河千(qian)張,在北方(fang)(fang)稱為豆(dou)腐皮(pi)(pi),南方(fang)(fang)又叫百葉,屬豆(dou)制品。永(yong)(yong)河皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)歷史悠久,相傳豆(dou)腐乃漢代(dai)淮南王劉安所創,至(zhi)今(jin)已有兩千(qian)多年(nian)(nian)。[2]在紅安縣一(yi)些地方(fang)(fang),一(yi)直流傳著過(guo)年(nian)(nian)“做(zuo)皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)”的(de)習俗,“永(yong)(yong)河皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)”最具獨(du)特(te)風味。春(chun)節(jie)臨近,永(yong)(yong)佳河鎮(zhen)的(de)皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)作坊(fang)又開始熱鬧起(qi)來(lai),肉厚(hou)、香嫩(nen)的(de)“永(yong)(yong)河皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)”成為人們團年(nian)(nian)飯(fan)里的(de)一(yi)道特(te)色佳肴。