肉(rou)松骨(gu)(gu)頭(tou)是江蘇省蘇州(zhou)太(tai)倉市的(de)(de)特色美食之(zhi)一,因(yin)制作(zuo)原料(liao)來自制作(zuo)肉(rou)松時剩下(xia)的(de)(de)“邊(bian)角(jiao)料(liao)”而得名。太(tai)倉肉(rou)松骨(gu)(gu)頭(tou)的(de)(de)特點是色澤醬紅,咸甜香鮮,骨(gu)(gu)肉(rou)相連,具有獨(du)特骨(gu)(gu)香。
1、選購新(xin)鮮筒骨、腿骨,切成大(da)塊,用溫(wen)水洗凈備(bei)用;
2、提前煮上一(yi)鍋肉湯;
3、鍋(guo)中加入適量清水,倒入肉(rou)湯,開始熬制;
4、根據個人(ren)口(kou)味,加入桂皮、茴香、黃(huang)酒、醬油等調料(liao);
5、開中火煮約50分(fen)鐘,熄火焐約兩小時;
6、再開大火收汁,其間用(yong)勺子不停舀湯(tang),淋在(zai)骨(gu)頭(tou)上,這一操作可(ke)令肉松骨(gu)頭(tou)更好入味,收汁結束后,即(ji)可(ke)享用(yong)美食。
太(tai)倉肉松骨(gu)(gu)頭(tou)是太(tai)倉市老字號美食,至今(jin)已有130多(duo)年歷史(shi)。清朝光緒二年,名廚倪德(de)在武陵開設倪鴻順(shun)肉松店(dian),生意日漸興隆,成就“鴻順(shun)骨(gu)(gu)頭(tou)鍋(guo)里煮,武陵老街三里香”的美譽。
太倉肉松(song)(song)(song)(song)骨(gu)頭(tou)(tou)的骨(gu)頭(tou)(tou)原(yuan)料(liao)來自制作(zuo)肉松(song)(song)(song)(song)時(shi)剩下的“邊角料(liao)”,因(yin)此得名。取肉松(song)(song)(song)(song)原(yuan)料(liao)時(shi),需(xu)要去皮除(chu)膘剔骨(gu),但(dan)并非(fei)將(jiang)骨(gu)上精肉扒(ba)個干(gan)凈,因(yin)為近骨(gu)之(zhi)肉有些(xie)筋拉和(he)軟骨(gu),不適合炒成(cheng)肉松(song)(song)(song)(song),于是倪德將(jiang)骨(gu)頭(tou)(tou)再加(jia)工,制成(cheng)肉松(song)(song)(song)(song)骨(gu)頭(tou)(tou),又(you)成(cheng)就(jiu)一道佳肴(yao)。
俗話說“好肉(rou)(rou)生(sheng)在(zai)骨(gu)頭(tou)(tou)上”,如(ru)今燒制肉(rou)(rou)松骨(gu)頭(tou)(tou)時,要特地選用上好的豬筒骨(gu),每塊重3兩至(zhi)4兩,含肉(rou)(rou)量不得(de)少于(yu)30%。一般來說,一頭(tou)(tou)250斤(jin)左右(you)的豬,能加(jia)工肉(rou)(rou)松骨(gu)頭(tou)(tou)的原料(liao)約為50斤(jin)。
盡管上百(bai)年來,烹制(zhi)(zhi)設備變了一代又(you)一代,但太(tai)倉一直延續傳統(tong)肉松骨(gu)頭(tou)烹制(zhi)(zhi)工藝。火候控制(zhi)(zhi)好,急火翻炒后,再用(yong)高溫燜(men)煮(zhu),還要灌入原湯,才能燒出肉質酥而不爛(lan)、腴而不肥、油而不膩的肉松骨(gu)頭(tou)。