在山西(xi),人們(men)壽(shou)誕生辰,聚友(you)團圓時,常(chang)常(chang)要吃這(zhe)種面,以示長(chang)壽(shou)和喜慶。龍(long)須面配料精細(xi)(xi),制(zhi)作講究,其制(zhi)作方(fang)法過去(qu)(qu)曾被(bei)認為是絕招,秘(mi)而不(bu)傳。龍(long)須拉(la)面的(de)面團被(bei)和勻(yun)后(hou),抻開(kai),卷起(qi)(qi),再(zai)抻開(kai),再(zai)卷起(qi)(qi),如(ru)(ru)此數扣之后(hou),師傅們(men)將拉(la)好(hao)的(de)面放在撒滿面粉的(de)幾案上抖開(kai),而后(hou)兩(liang)手像搭毛線般(ban)(ban)地將面抻開(kai)并抖動著。整個(ge)景象就如(ru)(ru)瀑布嘩(hua)嘩(hua)瀉下一般(ban)(ban),蔚為壯觀。片刻(ke)之后(hou)走上前去(qu)(qu),看到拉(la)好(hao)的(de)面已(yi)如(ru)(ru)絲(si)般(ban)(ban)纖(xian)細(xi)(xi),這(zhe)已(yi)是標準的(de)龍(long)須面了。
先(xian)用面(mian)(mian)水(shui)5∶3的(de)比例和好面(mian)(mian),然(ran)后在(zai)上面(mian)(mian)抹點香油醒著,將醒好的(de)面(mian)(mian)放在(zai)案板上,揉勻(yun)(yun)或搓(cuo)成(cheng)(cheng)長(chang)條(tiao)(tiao),雙手提兩端稍晃,再搓(cuo)成(cheng)(cheng)長(chang)條(tiao)(tiao)狀,搟成(cheng)(cheng)片形,略醒后用刀(dao)橫切成(cheng)(cheng)小手指(zhi)粗的(de)長(chang)條(tiao)(tiao),撒勻(yun)(yun)面(mian)(mian)粉或抹勻(yun)(yun)香油,逐根(gen)或幾根(gen)并拉,拉成(cheng)(cheng)細條(tiao)(tiao)投(tou)入沸水(shui)鍋(guo)內(nei),煮熟配上鹵即成(cheng)(cheng)。
龍須(xu)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)源頭是(shi)(shi)始(shi)于唐朝的(de)(de)小(xiao)(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)。《新唐書·王皇(huang)后(hou)(hou)傳》記(ji)有“陛下獨(du)不(bu)(bu)念阿忠脫紫半(ban)(ban)臂易斗面(mian)(mian)(mian),為(wei)生(sheng)日湯(tang)餅(bing)(bing)耶”。這種生(sheng)日湯(tang)餅(bing)(bing),已可(ke)“舉箸(zhu)食(shi)(shi)”(劉禹錫《贈進士張(zhang)盥(guan)》),是(shi)(shi)和軟面(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan),用(yong)(yong)刀切條(tiao),將條(tiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)細、拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)長(chang)(chang)后(hou)(hou)落鍋煮熟食(shi)(shi)用(yong)(yong),民(min)間至(zhi)今保留此(ci)法(fa),稱之(zhi)(zhi)為(wei)小(xiao)(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)。王皇(huang)后(hou)(hou)為(wei)李(li)(li)隆基做(zuo)生(sheng)日湯(tang)餅(bing)(bing)的(de)(de)故(gu)事(shi),發(fa)生(sheng)在(zai)李(li)(li)隆基作(zuo)潞(lu)州別(bie)駕的(de)(de)時候(hou),可(ke)見唐代至(zhi)少(shao)太原、長(chang)(chang)治等山(shan)西(xi)(xi)地區已將小(xiao)(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)為(wei)生(sheng)日長(chang)(chang)壽面(mian)(mian)(mian)而制作(zuo)和食(shi)(shi)用(yong)(yong)了。后(hou)(hou)來,這一拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)藝隨著太原玄中(zhong)寺的(de)(de)凈土宗(zong)東(dong)傳日本(ben),形成(cheng)(cheng)日本(ben)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術(shu)(shu)(shu)的(de)(de)基礎。到(dao)了宋代,趙光義(yi)鏟平晉陽西(xi)(xi)北系舟(zhou)山(shan),意欲拔(ba)掉“龍角”。第二(er)年太原百(bai)(bai)姓將二(er)月初(chu)的(de)(de)中(zhong)和節(jie)改為(wei)“龍頭節(jie)”,并(bing)固定(ding)在(zai)二(er)月初(chu)二(er)以(yi)作(zuo)紀念。此(ci)日,百(bai)(bai)姓多(duo)吃(chi)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian),意思是(shi)(shi)你拔(ba)我(wo)“龍角”,我(wo)挑你“龍筋”、吃(chi)你“龍須(xu)”,以(yi)示憤恨。自(zi)此(ci),拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)又被(bei)稱為(wei)龍須(xu)面(mian)(mian)(mian),黃庭(ting)堅(jian)曾作(zuo)詩“湯(tang)餅(bing)(bing)一杯銀(yin)絲亂,牽絲如縷玉簪(zan)橫”。元(yuan)代時,馬可(ke)波羅三訪太原,將這種拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術(shu)(shu)(shu)帶回意大(da)利(li),形成(cheng)(cheng)影響(xiang)西(xi)(xi)方面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)技(ji)術(shu)(shu)(shu)和飲食(shi)(shi)文化的(de)(de)意大(da)利(li)通心粉面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)。小(xiao)(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)何時發(fa)展成(cheng)(cheng)大(da)把(ba)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian),暫(zan)不(bu)(bu)可(ke)考,但明人宋詡《宋氏養生(sheng)部(bu)》記(ji)載:“用(yong)(yong)少(shao)鹽入(ru)水和面(mian)(mian)(mian),一斤為(wei)率。既勻(yun),沃(wo)香油(you)少(shao)許……漸以(yi)兩手纏絡于直(zhi)指(zhi)、將指(zhi)、無名指(zhi)之(zhi)(zhi)間,為(wei)細條(tiao),先作(zuo)沸湯(tang),隨拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)隨煮。”可(ke)見山(shan)西(xi)(xi)明代時已有大(da)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)制作(zuo)技(ji)術(shu)(shu)(shu)。清道光年間,山(shan)西(xi)(xi)稷山(shan)縣馬金定(ding)兄(xiong)弟,千里(li)迢(tiao)迢(tiao)去陜(shan)西(xi)(xi)岐山(shan)做(zuo)掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)生(sheng)意,字號(hao)(hao)“順(shun)天成(cheng)(cheng)”,直(zhi)到(dao)今天,岐山(shan)掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)還沿用(yong)(yong)這個(ge)老字號(hao)(hao)。這種掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)起初(chu)就是(shi)(shi)將面(mian)(mian)(mian)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)好后(hou)(hou),掛在(zai)線上曬干銷售,是(shi)(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)為(wei)半(ban)(ban)成(cheng)(cheng)品(pin)銷售的(de)(de)典范。
清(qing)(qing)(qing)朝末年,拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)已成為山、陜面(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)制作的(de)成熟技術。清(qing)(qing)(qing)末薛寶辰著(zhu)的(de)《素(su)食(shi)說略》中說,在(zai)山、陜流行一(yi)種“楨(zhen)條(tiao)(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)”:“以水和面(mian)(mian)(mian),入鹽、清(qing)(qing)(qing)油揉勻,覆以濕(shi)布,俟其軟和,扯開細(xi)煮之,名為楨(zhen)條(tiao)(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)。做法(fa)以山西太原(yuan)、平定州、陜西朝邑、同州為最。”這種楨(zhen)條(tiao)(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian),即(ji)山西拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian),也稱龍須面(mian)(mian)(mian),在(zai)清(qing)(qing)(qing)代(dai)還(huan)進入宮廷。《清(qing)(qing)(qing)稗類(lei)鈔》、《中國歷代(dai)御膳大觀》中記,內廷大宴(yan)之一(yi)、清(qing)(qing)(qing)朝帝王的(de)壽誕宴(yan)——萬壽宴(yan),以及滿漢全席第(di)一(yi)宴(yan)的(de)蒙古親藩(fan)宴(yan),都以龍須面(mian)(mian)(mian)作為御宴(yan)的(de)重要膳食(shi)。
“千招易(yi)學,一竅難得(de)”。拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作(zuo)技術解(jie)放前曾被認為是(shi)“絕(jue)招”,秘而不(bu)(bu)傳。解(jie)放后,逐漸在(zai)(zai)社會上得(de)以公(gong)開,成為山西(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)案的基本功,受(shou)到山西(xi)飲食(shi)界的重視,并(bing)不(bu)(bu)斷(duan)在(zai)(zai)實踐探索(suo)中細分為小拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(一根面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian))、大拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(6至8扣)、龍(long)須(xu)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(10扣以上),空(kong)心拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)等(deng)(deng)。現在(zai)(zai),龍(long)須(xu)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)除食(shi)用之外,還(huan)作(zuo)為一種表(biao)(biao)演藝術,拉(la)至14扣時(shi),共(gong)計(ji)28924根,相(xiang)連長達25公(gong)里(li)。全(quan)晉會館(guan)(guan)的蒙眼拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),還(huan)曾獲得(de)全(quan)國(guo)廚藝絕(jue)技超群獎,多次應邀赴(fu)日本、新加坡(po)、臺灣(wan)等(deng)(deng)國(guo)家(jia)(jia)和(he)地區表(biao)(biao)演。2008年初(chu),全(quan)晉會館(guan)(guan)作(zuo)為傳承單位(wei)的龍(long)須(xu)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),被列入第二批國(guo)家(jia)(jia)級(ji)非物質(zhi)文(wen)(wen)化(hua)遺產保護(hu)名錄,受(shou)到了(le)國(guo)家(jia)(jia)的高(gao)度重視。龍(long)須(xu)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作(zuo),這一山西(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)中技術性強的特色手(shou)工技藝和(he)表(biao)(biao)演藝術,將(jiang)在(zai)(zai)新時(shi)代煥發出傳承文(wen)(wen)脈、走向(xiang)和(he)諧、造福社會的無比絢(xuan)麗奪目的光彩(cai)。