在山(shan)西,人們(men)壽(shou)誕生辰,聚(ju)友團(tuan)圓時,常(chang)常(chang)要吃這種(zhong)面(mian),以(yi)示長壽(shou)和喜慶。龍須(xu)面(mian)配料精細,制作(zuo)講(jiang)究,其(qi)制作(zuo)方法過去曾被認(ren)為(wei)是絕招,秘而不傳。龍須(xu)拉(la)面(mian)的(de)(de)面(mian)團(tuan)被和勻后(hou),抻開,卷起(qi),再抻開,再卷起(qi),如(ru)此數扣(kou)之后(hou),師傅們(men)將拉(la)好的(de)(de)面(mian)放(fang)在撒滿(man)面(mian)粉的(de)(de)幾案上抖開,而后(hou)兩手(shou)像搭毛線般(ban)地將面(mian)抻開并抖動著。整個景象就如(ru)瀑布嘩(hua)嘩(hua)瀉下一般(ban),蔚為(wei)壯觀。片刻之后(hou)走(zou)上前去,看到拉(la)好的(de)(de)面(mian)已如(ru)絲般(ban)纖細,這已是標準的(de)(de)龍須(xu)面(mian)了。
先用面水(shui)5∶3的比例和好(hao)(hao)面,然(ran)后在上(shang)面抹點香油醒著,將醒好(hao)(hao)的面放在案板(ban)上(shang),揉勻(yun)或搓(cuo)成(cheng)長(chang)條(tiao),雙手提兩(liang)端稍晃,再搓(cuo)成(cheng)長(chang)條(tiao)狀,搟成(cheng)片形,略醒后用刀橫切成(cheng)小(xiao)手指(zhi)粗的長(chang)條(tiao),撒勻(yun)面粉(fen)或抹勻(yun)香油,逐根或幾根并(bing)拉,拉成(cheng)細(xi)條(tiao)投入沸水(shui)鍋內,煮熟配(pei)上(shang)鹵(lu)即成(cheng)。
龍(long)須拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)源頭是(shi)始于唐(tang)朝(chao)的(de)(de)小(xiao)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。《新唐(tang)書(shu)·王皇(huang)后傳》記(ji)有(you)“陛下(xia)獨不(bu)念阿忠脫紫半臂(bei)易斗(dou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),為(wei)生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)湯(tang)餅耶”。這(zhe)(zhe)種(zhong)生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)湯(tang)餅,已可(ke)“舉箸食(shi)”(劉禹錫(xi)《贈進士張盥》),是(shi)和(he)軟(ruan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團,用(yong)刀切條(tiao),將(jiang)條(tiao)拉(la)細、拉(la)長(chang)后落(luo)鍋(guo)煮(zhu)熟食(shi)用(yong),民間(jian)(jian)至今保留此(ci)(ci)法,稱之(zhi)為(wei)小(xiao)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。王皇(huang)后為(wei)李(li)隆基(ji)做生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)湯(tang)餅的(de)(de)故事,發(fa)生(sheng)(sheng)在(zai)李(li)隆基(ji)作(zuo)潞州別駕的(de)(de)時(shi)候(hou),可(ke)見唐(tang)代至少太(tai)(tai)原(yuan)(yuan)、長(chang)治等(deng)山(shan)西(xi)(xi)地區已將(jiang)小(xiao)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)為(wei)生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)長(chang)壽面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)而(er)制作(zuo)和(he)食(shi)用(yong)了。后來(lai),這(zhe)(zhe)一(yi)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技藝(yi)隨(sui)著太(tai)(tai)原(yuan)(yuan)玄中(zhong)寺的(de)(de)凈(jing)土宗(zong)東傳日(ri)本,形(xing)(xing)成(cheng)日(ri)本拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技術的(de)(de)基(ji)礎。到了宋代,趙光義鏟平晉陽西(xi)(xi)北系舟山(shan),意(yi)(yi)欲拔(ba)掉“龍(long)角”。第二年太(tai)(tai)原(yuan)(yuan)百姓(xing)將(jiang)二月(yue)初(chu)(chu)的(de)(de)中(zhong)和(he)節改為(wei)“龍(long)頭節”,并(bing)固定在(zai)二月(yue)初(chu)(chu)二以(yi)作(zuo)紀念。此(ci)(ci)日(ri),百姓(xing)多(duo)吃拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),意(yi)(yi)思是(shi)你拔(ba)我“龍(long)角”,我挑你“龍(long)筋”、吃你“龍(long)須”,以(yi)示(shi)憤(fen)恨。自此(ci)(ci),拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)又(you)被稱為(wei)龍(long)須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),黃庭堅(jian)曾(ceng)作(zuo)詩“湯(tang)餅一(yi)杯(bei)銀絲亂(luan),牽絲如縷玉簪橫(heng)”。元代時(shi),馬(ma)可(ke)波羅三(san)訪太(tai)(tai)原(yuan)(yuan),將(jiang)這(zhe)(zhe)種(zhong)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技術帶回意(yi)(yi)大(da)(da)利(li),形(xing)(xing)成(cheng)影(ying)響西(xi)(xi)方面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)技術和(he)飲食(shi)文化的(de)(de)意(yi)(yi)大(da)(da)利(li)通心粉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)。小(xiao)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)何(he)時(shi)發(fa)展成(cheng)大(da)(da)把拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),暫不(bu)可(ke)考,但明人宋詡《宋氏養生(sheng)(sheng)部》記(ji)載:“用(yong)少鹽入水和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),一(yi)斤為(wei)率。既勻,沃香油少許……漸以(yi)兩手纏(chan)絡于直(zhi)指、將(jiang)指、無名指之(zhi)間(jian)(jian),為(wei)細條(tiao),先作(zuo)沸湯(tang),隨(sui)拉(la)隨(sui)煮(zhu)。”可(ke)見山(shan)西(xi)(xi)明代時(shi)已有(you)大(da)(da)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制作(zuo)技術。清道光年間(jian)(jian),山(shan)西(xi)(xi)稷山(shan)縣馬(ma)金定兄弟,千里迢(tiao)迢(tiao)去陜西(xi)(xi)岐山(shan)做掛(gua)(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)生(sheng)(sheng)意(yi)(yi),字號(hao)“順天(tian)成(cheng)”,直(zhi)到今天(tian),岐山(shan)掛(gua)(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)還(huan)沿用(yong)這(zhe)(zhe)個老字號(hao)。這(zhe)(zhe)種(zhong)掛(gua)(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)起初(chu)(chu)就是(shi)將(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)拉(la)好后,掛(gua)(gua)在(zai)線上曬干銷(xiao)售(shou),是(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)為(wei)半成(cheng)品銷(xiao)售(shou)的(de)(de)典范。
清朝末年,拉(la)面(mian)(mian)已成為(wei)山、陜(shan)面(mian)(mian)食制作(zuo)(zuo)的(de)(de)成熟技術。清末薛寶(bao)辰(chen)著的(de)(de)《素食說略(lve)》中(zhong)說,在山、陜(shan)流行一(yi)種“楨條面(mian)(mian)”:“以(yi)(yi)水(shui)和面(mian)(mian),入鹽、清油揉勻,覆以(yi)(yi)濕布,俟其軟和,扯開細煮之,名(ming)為(wei)楨條面(mian)(mian)。做法以(yi)(yi)山西太原、平(ping)定州、陜(shan)西朝邑、同州為(wei)最。”這(zhe)種楨條面(mian)(mian),即山西拉(la)面(mian)(mian),也(ye)稱龍須面(mian)(mian),在清代還進入宮(gong)廷(ting)。《清稗類鈔》、《中(zhong)國歷代御膳大觀》中(zhong)記,內廷(ting)大宴之一(yi)、清朝帝王的(de)(de)壽誕宴——萬壽宴,以(yi)(yi)及(ji)滿漢(han)全席第(di)一(yi)宴的(de)(de)蒙(meng)古親藩宴,都以(yi)(yi)龍須面(mian)(mian)作(zuo)(zuo)為(wei)御宴的(de)(de)重要膳食。
“千招易學,一竅難得(de)”。拉(la)(la)面(mian)制作(zuo)(zuo)技(ji)(ji)術解放前(qian)曾被(bei)認為(wei)是“絕招”,秘而不傳。解放后,逐漸在社會上得(de)以(yi)公(gong)開,成為(wei)山(shan)西(xi)(xi)面(mian)案的(de)(de)基本(ben)功,受到山(shan)西(xi)(xi)飲(yin)食(shi)界的(de)(de)重(zhong)視,并(bing)不斷在實踐探索(suo)中(zhong)細分(fen)為(wei)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(一根面(mian))、大拉(la)(la)面(mian)(6至8扣(kou))、龍(long)須(xu)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(10扣(kou)以(yi)上),空心拉(la)(la)面(mian)等(deng)。現在,龍(long)須(xu)拉(la)(la)面(mian)除(chu)食(shi)用之外,還作(zuo)(zuo)為(wei)一種表演(yan)藝(yi)(yi)術,拉(la)(la)至14扣(kou)時,共計(ji)28924根,相連長達25公(gong)里(li)。全(quan)晉(jin)會館的(de)(de)蒙(meng)眼拉(la)(la)面(mian),還曾獲得(de)全(quan)國(guo)廚藝(yi)(yi)絕技(ji)(ji)超群獎,多(duo)次應邀赴日本(ben)、新(xin)加坡、臺灣等(deng)國(guo)家和地區(qu)表演(yan)。2008年初,全(quan)晉(jin)會館作(zuo)(zuo)為(wei)傳承單位的(de)(de)龍(long)須(xu)拉(la)(la)面(mian),被(bei)列入第二批國(guo)家級非物質文化遺(yi)產保(bao)護名錄,受到了(le)國(guo)家的(de)(de)高度重(zhong)視。龍(long)須(xu)拉(la)(la)面(mian)制作(zuo)(zuo),這一山(shan)西(xi)(xi)面(mian)食(shi)中(zhong)技(ji)(ji)術性(xing)強的(de)(de)特色手(shou)工(gong)技(ji)(ji)藝(yi)(yi)和表演(yan)藝(yi)(yi)術,將在新(xin)時代煥(huan)發出傳承文脈、走向和諧、造(zao)福社會的(de)(de)無比(bi)絢麗(li)奪(duo)目(mu)的(de)(de)光彩。