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太原龍須拉面介紹

在山西(xi)，人們(men)壽誕生辰，聚友團(tuan)圓時，常常要吃這種面(mian)(mian)，以示長壽和(he)(he)喜慶。龍(long)須面(mian)(mian)配(pei)料精細，制(zhi)作(zuo)講究，其制(zhi)作(zuo)方法(fa)過去曾被認為(wei)是絕招，秘而不傳。龍(long)須拉面(mian)(mian)的(de)面(mian)(mian)團(tuan)被和(he)(he)勻后，抻(chen)開，卷(juan)起，再抻(chen)開，再卷(juan)起，如此(ci)數(shu)扣(kou)之后，師(shi)傅(fu)們(men)將拉好的(de)面(mian)(mian)放在撒滿面(mian)(mian)粉的(de)幾案上抖(dou)(dou)開，而后兩手像搭毛(mao)線般(ban)(ban)地將面(mian)(mian)抻(chen)開并抖(dou)(dou)動(dong)著。整個(ge)景象就如瀑布(bu)嘩嘩瀉下(xia)一般(ban)(ban)，蔚為(wei)壯觀(guan)。片刻之后走上前去，看到拉好的(de)面(mian)(mian)已(yi)如絲般(ban)(ban)纖細，這已(yi)是標準的(de)龍(long)須面(mian)(mian)了。

龍須拉面做法

先用(yong)面(mian)水5∶3的比例和好面(mian)，然后在上(shang)面(mian)抹點香油醒著，將醒好的面(mian)放在案(an)板(ban)上(shang)，揉(rou)勻(yun)或搓(cuo)成(cheng)(cheng)長(chang)條(tiao)，雙(shuang)手提兩(liang)端稍晃，再搓(cuo)成(cheng)(cheng)長(chang)條(tiao)狀，搟成(cheng)(cheng)片形，略醒后用(yong)刀橫切成(cheng)(cheng)小手指粗(cu)的長(chang)條(tiao)，撒勻(yun)面(mian)粉或抹勻(yun)香油，逐(zhu)根或幾(ji)根并拉(la)，拉(la)成(cheng)(cheng)細條(tiao)投入沸水鍋內，煮熟配上(shang)鹵即成(cheng)(cheng)。

龍須拉面的起源故事

龍(long)(long)須拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)源頭是(shi)(shi)始于唐朝的(de)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。《新唐書·王皇后傳(chuan)》記有“陛下獨不念阿忠脫紫半臂易斗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，為(wei)(wei)生(sheng)日(ri)(ri)(ri)湯(tang)(tang)餅(bing)耶”。這(zhe)(zhe)種(zhong)生(sheng)日(ri)(ri)(ri)湯(tang)(tang)餅(bing)，已可“舉箸食”（劉禹錫《贈進(jin)士張盥》），是(shi)(shi)和軟面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團，用(yong)(yong)刀(dao)切條(tiao)，將(jiang)條(tiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)細(xi)、拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)長后落(luo)鍋煮熟(shu)食用(yong)(yong)，民間至今保留此法，稱之(zhi)為(wei)(wei)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。王皇后為(wei)(wei)李(li)隆(long)基(ji)做(zuo)生(sheng)日(ri)(ri)(ri)湯(tang)(tang)餅(bing)的(de)故(gu)事，發生(sheng)在李(li)隆(long)基(ji)作(zuo)潞州別駕的(de)時(shi)候，可見唐代至少(shao)太(tai)原、長治等山(shan)西(xi)地區已將(jiang)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)為(wei)(wei)生(sheng)日(ri)(ri)(ri)長壽面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)而制(zhi)作(zuo)和食用(yong)(yong)了(le)。后來，這(zhe)(zhe)一(yi)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)藝隨著太(tai)原玄(xuan)中(zhong)寺的(de)凈土(tu)宗東(dong)傳(chuan)日(ri)(ri)(ri)本，形(xing)成(cheng)日(ri)(ri)(ri)本拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術的(de)基(ji)礎。到了(le)宋代，趙光(guang)義鏟平晉陽西(xi)北(bei)系舟山(shan)，意(yi)欲拔掉“龍(long)(long)角(jiao)”。第二(er)(er)年太(tai)原百(bai)(bai)姓將(jiang)二(er)(er)月(yue)初(chu)的(de)中(zhong)和節改為(wei)(wei)“龍(long)(long)頭節”，并固定(ding)在二(er)(er)月(yue)初(chu)二(er)(er)以作(zuo)紀念。此日(ri)(ri)(ri)，百(bai)(bai)姓多吃(chi)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，意(yi)思是(shi)(shi)你(ni)拔我“龍(long)(long)角(jiao)”，我挑你(ni)“龍(long)(long)筋”、吃(chi)你(ni)“龍(long)(long)須”，以示憤恨。自此，拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)又被稱為(wei)(wei)龍(long)(long)須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，黃(huang)庭堅曾作(zuo)詩“湯(tang)(tang)餅(bing)一(yi)杯銀絲亂，牽絲如(ru)縷玉(yu)簪橫(heng)”。元(yuan)代時(shi)，馬可波羅三訪(fang)太(tai)原，將(jiang)這(zhe)(zhe)種(zhong)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術帶回意(yi)大利(li)，形(xing)成(cheng)影響西(xi)方面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食技(ji)術和飲食文化(hua)的(de)意(yi)大利(li)通心(xin)粉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食。小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)何時(shi)發展成(cheng)大把拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，暫不可考，但明(ming)人宋詡《宋氏(shi)養生(sheng)部》記載：“用(yong)(yong)少(shao)鹽(yan)入水和面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，一(yi)斤為(wei)(wei)率。既(ji)勻，沃(wo)香油(you)少(shao)許……漸(jian)以兩(liang)手纏絡于直指、將(jiang)指、無名指之(zhi)間，為(wei)(wei)細(xi)條(tiao)，先作(zuo)沸(fei)湯(tang)(tang)，隨拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)隨煮。”可見山(shan)西(xi)明(ming)代時(shi)已有大拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作(zuo)技(ji)術。清(qing)道光(guang)年間，山(shan)西(xi)稷山(shan)縣馬金定(ding)兄弟，千里(li)迢迢去陜西(xi)岐山(shan)做(zuo)掛(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)生(sheng)意(yi)，字號“順天成(cheng)”，直到今天，岐山(shan)掛(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)還沿用(yong)(yong)這(zhe)(zhe)個老(lao)字號。這(zhe)(zhe)種(zhong)掛(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)起初(chu)就是(shi)(shi)將(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)好(hao)后，掛(gua)在線(xian)上曬干銷(xiao)售，是(shi)(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)為(wei)(wei)半成(cheng)品銷(xiao)售的(de)典范。

清(qing)朝(chao)末年，拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)已成為(wei)山(shan)(shan)、陜(shan)(shan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)食制作(zuo)(zuo)的成熟技術。清(qing)末薛寶辰著的《素食說略》中(zhong)(zhong)說，在山(shan)(shan)、陜(shan)(shan)流行一(yi)種“楨(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)條(tiao)(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)”：“以水和面(mian)(mian)(mian)，入鹽(yan)、清(qing)油揉勻(yun)，覆以濕布(bu)，俟其軟和，扯開細煮之(zhi)，名(ming)為(wei)楨(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)條(tiao)(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)。做法以山(shan)(shan)西太(tai)原、平定州、陜(shan)(shan)西朝(chao)邑、同(tong)州為(wei)最。”這種楨(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)條(tiao)(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)，即山(shan)(shan)西拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)，也稱龍須面(mian)(mian)(mian)，在清(qing)代(dai)還(huan)進入宮廷。《清(qing)稗類鈔》、《中(zhong)(zhong)國歷代(dai)御膳(shan)大觀》中(zhong)(zhong)記，內廷大宴(yan)(yan)之(zhi)一(yi)、清(qing)朝(chao)帝王的壽(shou)誕(dan)宴(yan)(yan)——萬(wan)壽(shou)宴(yan)(yan)，以及滿漢全席第(di)一(yi)宴(yan)(yan)的蒙古親藩宴(yan)(yan)，都以龍須面(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)(zuo)為(wei)御宴(yan)(yan)的重(zhong)要(yao)膳(shan)食。

“千招易學，一(yi)竅難得(de)”。拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作(zuo)技術(shu)解放前曾被(bei)認(ren)為是“絕招”，秘(mi)而不(bu)傳。解放后，逐漸在(zai)社會上得(de)以公開(kai)，成為山(shan)西(xi)面(mian)(mian)案的(de)(de)(de)基本功，受到山(shan)西(xi)飲(yin)食界的(de)(de)(de)重視，并不(bu)斷在(zai)實踐(jian)探索中細分為小拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)（一(yi)根(gen)面(mian)(mian)）、大拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)（6至(zhi)8扣）、龍須(xu)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)（10扣以上），空心拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)等。現在(zai)，龍須(xu)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)除食用(yong)之外，還作(zuo)為一(yi)種(zhong)表(biao)演藝術(shu)，拉(la)(la)(la)至(zhi)14扣時，共計(ji)28924根(gen)，相連(lian)長達25公里。全晉(jin)會館的(de)(de)(de)蒙眼拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)，還曾獲得(de)全國(guo)(guo)(guo)廚藝絕技超群獎，多(duo)次應邀赴(fu)日(ri)本、新(xin)(xin)加坡、臺灣等國(guo)(guo)(guo)家和(he)地(di)區表(biao)演。2008年初，全晉(jin)會館作(zuo)為傳承(cheng)單位(wei)的(de)(de)(de)龍須(xu)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)，被(bei)列入第二批(pi)國(guo)(guo)(guo)家級非物質文化遺產保護名錄，受到了國(guo)(guo)(guo)家的(de)(de)(de)高度(du)重視。龍須(xu)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作(zuo)，這一(yi)山(shan)西(xi)面(mian)(mian)食中技術(shu)性強(qiang)的(de)(de)(de)特色(se)手工技藝和(he)表(biao)演藝術(shu)，將在(zai)新(xin)(xin)時代煥發出傳承(cheng)文脈、走(zou)向和(he)諧、造福社會的(de)(de)(de)無(wu)比絢麗奪目(mu)的(de)(de)(de)光彩。