在山西,人們壽誕生辰(chen),聚友團圓時,常(chang)常(chang)要吃這(zhe)種面(mian)(mian)(mian),以示長(chang)壽和喜慶。龍(long)須(xu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)配料精細,制作講究,其制作方法(fa)過去(qu)曾被認為是絕招,秘(mi)而不(bu)傳。龍(long)須(xu)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)團被和勻后(hou),抻開,卷(juan)起,再抻開,再卷(juan)起,如(ru)(ru)此數(shu)扣之后(hou),師傅們將拉(la)好的(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)放在撒滿(man)面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉的(de)幾案上抖開,而后(hou)兩(liang)手像搭毛線(xian)般地將面(mian)(mian)(mian)抻開并抖動著。整(zheng)個景象就如(ru)(ru)瀑布嘩嘩瀉(xie)下一般,蔚為壯觀。片(pian)刻之后(hou)走上前去(qu),看到拉(la)好的(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)已(yi)如(ru)(ru)絲般纖(xian)細,這(zhe)已(yi)是標準的(de)龍(long)須(xu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)了。
先用面(mian)(mian)水(shui)5∶3的(de)比例和(he)好(hao)(hao)面(mian)(mian),然(ran)后(hou)在上面(mian)(mian)抹(mo)點(dian)香油醒著,將(jiang)醒好(hao)(hao)的(de)面(mian)(mian)放在案板上,揉勻或(huo)搓成(cheng)長(chang)條,雙(shuang)手(shou)提(ti)兩端(duan)稍(shao)晃,再搓成(cheng)長(chang)條狀(zhuang),搟成(cheng)片(pian)形,略醒后(hou)用刀(dao)橫切(qie)成(cheng)小手(shou)指(zhi)粗的(de)長(chang)條,撒勻面(mian)(mian)粉或(huo)抹(mo)勻香油,逐根(gen)(gen)或(huo)幾(ji)根(gen)(gen)并拉,拉成(cheng)細條投入沸水(shui)鍋內(nei),煮熟配上鹵即成(cheng)。
龍(long)須(xu)(xu)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)源(yuan)頭是(shi)始(shi)于唐朝(chao)的(de)(de)(de)小拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。《新唐書(shu)·王(wang)皇后(hou)傳》記有“陛下獨不念阿忠脫紫半臂易斗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),為(wei)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)(ri)湯餅(bing)(bing)耶”。這(zhe)種(zhong)(zhong)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)(ri)湯餅(bing)(bing),已(yi)可(ke)“舉箸食”(劉禹錫(xi)《贈進(jin)士張(zhang)盥(guan)》),是(shi)和軟面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團,用(yong)(yong)刀切條(tiao),將(jiang)條(tiao)拉(la)(la)細(xi)、拉(la)(la)長(chang)后(hou)落鍋煮熟(shu)食用(yong)(yong),民(min)間至(zhi)今保(bao)留此(ci)法,稱(cheng)之為(wei)小拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。王(wang)皇后(hou)為(wei)李隆基做(zuo)(zuo)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)(ri)湯餅(bing)(bing)的(de)(de)(de)故事,發(fa)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)在(zai)李隆基作(zuo)(zuo)潞州別駕的(de)(de)(de)時候,可(ke)見唐代(dai)(dai)至(zhi)少(shao)太(tai)原、長(chang)治等山(shan)西地區已(yi)將(jiang)小拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)(zuo)為(wei)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)(ri)長(chang)壽面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)而制作(zuo)(zuo)和食用(yong)(yong)了。后(hou)來,這(zhe)一拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技藝隨著(zhu)太(tai)原玄中寺(si)的(de)(de)(de)凈(jing)土(tu)宗東傳日(ri)(ri)本(ben),形成(cheng)日(ri)(ri)本(ben)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技術的(de)(de)(de)基礎。到(dao)了宋(song)代(dai)(dai),趙光義鏟(chan)平晉陽(yang)西北系舟山(shan),意(yi)(yi)欲拔(ba)掉“龍(long)角”。第二(er)年太(tai)原百(bai)姓將(jiang)二(er)月(yue)初(chu)的(de)(de)(de)中和節改為(wei)“龍(long)頭節”,并(bing)固定(ding)在(zai)二(er)月(yue)初(chu)二(er)以作(zuo)(zuo)紀念。此(ci)日(ri)(ri),百(bai)姓多吃拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),意(yi)(yi)思(si)是(shi)你(ni)拔(ba)我(wo)“龍(long)角”,我(wo)挑你(ni)“龍(long)筋”、吃你(ni)“龍(long)須(xu)(xu)”,以示憤恨。自(zi)此(ci),拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)又被(bei)稱(cheng)為(wei)龍(long)須(xu)(xu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),黃庭堅曾(ceng)作(zuo)(zuo)詩“湯餅(bing)(bing)一杯(bei)銀絲亂,牽(qian)絲如縷玉(yu)簪橫”。元代(dai)(dai)時,馬(ma)(ma)可(ke)波羅三訪太(tai)原,將(jiang)這(zhe)種(zhong)(zhong)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技術帶回(hui)意(yi)(yi)大利(li),形成(cheng)影(ying)響西方面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食技術和飲食文化的(de)(de)(de)意(yi)(yi)大利(li)通(tong)心粉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食。小拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)何時發(fa)展成(cheng)大把拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),暫(zan)不可(ke)考,但明人宋(song)詡《宋(song)氏養生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)部》記載:“用(yong)(yong)少(shao)鹽入水和面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),一斤為(wei)率。既勻,沃(wo)香油少(shao)許(xu)……漸以兩手纏絡于直指、將(jiang)指、無名指之間,為(wei)細(xi)條(tiao),先作(zuo)(zuo)沸湯,隨拉(la)(la)隨煮。”可(ke)見山(shan)西明代(dai)(dai)時已(yi)有大拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制作(zuo)(zuo)技術。清道光年間,山(shan)西稷(ji)山(shan)縣馬(ma)(ma)金(jin)定(ding)兄(xiong)弟,千里迢迢去陜西岐山(shan)做(zuo)(zuo)掛(gua)(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)意(yi)(yi),字號(hao)“順天成(cheng)”,直到(dao)今天,岐山(shan)掛(gua)(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)還沿用(yong)(yong)這(zhe)個(ge)老字號(hao)。這(zhe)種(zhong)(zhong)掛(gua)(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)起初(chu)就是(shi)將(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)拉(la)(la)好后(hou),掛(gua)(gua)在(zai)線上曬干銷(xiao)售,是(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)(zuo)為(wei)半成(cheng)品銷(xiao)售的(de)(de)(de)典范。
清(qing)朝末年,拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)已成為(wei)(wei)山、陜面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食制作的(de)成熟技術。清(qing)末薛寶辰著(zhu)的(de)《素食說略》中(zhong)(zhong)說,在山、陜流(liu)行一(yi)(yi)種(zhong)“楨(zhen)(zhen)條(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”:“以水和面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),入鹽(yan)、清(qing)油揉勻(yun),覆以濕布(bu),俟其軟和,扯開(kai)細煮之,名(ming)為(wei)(wei)楨(zhen)(zhen)條(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。做法以山西太(tai)原、平定州、陜西朝邑、同州為(wei)(wei)最。”這種(zhong)楨(zhen)(zhen)條(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),即山西拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),也稱龍(long)須(xu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),在清(qing)代(dai)還進(jin)入宮廷(ting)。《清(qing)稗類鈔(chao)》、《中(zhong)(zhong)國歷代(dai)御膳大(da)觀》中(zhong)(zhong)記,內廷(ting)大(da)宴(yan)之一(yi)(yi)、清(qing)朝帝王的(de)壽誕(dan)宴(yan)——萬壽宴(yan),以及滿漢(han)全席第(di)一(yi)(yi)宴(yan)的(de)蒙(meng)古親藩宴(yan),都以龍(long)須(xu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作為(wei)(wei)御宴(yan)的(de)重要(yao)膳食。
“千招易(yi)學,一竅難得(de)”。拉面(mian)制作技術(shu)解(jie)放前曾被認為(wei)是“絕招”,秘(mi)而(er)不傳。解(jie)放后,逐(zhu)漸在(zai)社(she)會上得(de)以公(gong)開,成為(wei)山西(xi)面(mian)案的(de)(de)(de)基(ji)本功,受(shou)到(dao)山西(xi)飲食界的(de)(de)(de)重(zhong)視,并不斷(duan)在(zai)實踐探索(suo)中(zhong)細分為(wei)小拉面(mian)(一根(gen)面(mian))、大拉面(mian)(6至8扣)、龍(long)(long)須(xu)拉面(mian)(10扣以上),空心拉面(mian)等。現在(zai),龍(long)(long)須(xu)拉面(mian)除食用之外,還作為(wei)一種表(biao)演藝(yi)術(shu),拉至14扣時(shi),共(gong)計(ji)28924根(gen),相連長達(da)25公(gong)里。全(quan)晉(jin)會館(guan)的(de)(de)(de)蒙眼拉面(mian),還曾獲得(de)全(quan)國(guo)廚藝(yi)絕技超群獎,多次(ci)應邀赴日(ri)本、新(xin)加(jia)坡、臺灣等國(guo)家(jia)(jia)和地(di)區表(biao)演。2008年初,全(quan)晉(jin)會館(guan)作為(wei)傳承單位的(de)(de)(de)龍(long)(long)須(xu)拉面(mian),被列入第二(er)批國(guo)家(jia)(jia)級非物質文化遺(yi)產保護名錄,受(shou)到(dao)了國(guo)家(jia)(jia)的(de)(de)(de)高度重(zhong)視。龍(long)(long)須(xu)拉面(mian)制作,這一山西(xi)面(mian)食中(zhong)技術(shu)性(xing)強的(de)(de)(de)特色手工技藝(yi)和表(biao)演藝(yi)術(shu),將在(zai)新(xin)時(shi)代(dai)煥發出(chu)傳承文脈、走(zou)向(xiang)和諧、造福社(she)會的(de)(de)(de)無比絢(xuan)麗(li)奪(duo)目的(de)(de)(de)光彩。