在山西(xi),人們(men)壽誕生辰,聚友團(tuan)圓時,常常要吃這種面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),以示長壽和喜慶(qing)。龍(long)須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)配料精細(xi),制作講究,其制作方法過去曾被認(ren)為(wei)是(shi)絕招,秘而(er)不傳。龍(long)須拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)被和勻后(hou),抻開,卷起,再(zai)抻開,再(zai)卷起,如(ru)(ru)此(ci)數扣之(zhi)后(hou),師傅(fu)們(men)將(jiang)(jiang)拉好的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)放(fang)在撒滿面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉的(de)(de)(de)幾案上抖開,而(er)后(hou)兩手像(xiang)搭毛線般(ban)地將(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)抻開并抖動著。整個景(jing)象就如(ru)(ru)瀑布(bu)嘩嘩瀉下一般(ban),蔚為(wei)壯(zhuang)觀。片刻之(zhi)后(hou)走(zou)上前去,看到拉好的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)已(yi)如(ru)(ru)絲般(ban)纖細(xi),這已(yi)是(shi)標準的(de)(de)(de)龍(long)須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)了。
先用面水(shui)5∶3的(de)比(bi)例和好(hao)面,然后在(zai)上面抹點香油醒著,將醒好(hao)的(de)面放在(zai)案板(ban)上,揉勻或搓成長條,雙手(shou)(shou)提兩端稍晃,再(zai)搓成長條狀,搟成片形(xing),略醒后用刀橫切成小(xiao)手(shou)(shou)指(zhi)粗(cu)的(de)長條,撒(sa)勻面粉或抹勻香油,逐根(gen)或幾根(gen)并拉,拉成細條投入沸水(shui)鍋內,煮熟配上鹵即成。
龍(long)須拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)源頭是(shi)始于唐朝(chao)的(de)(de)(de)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。《新唐書·王皇(huang)后(hou)傳》記有“陛下獨不念阿(a)忠脫紫半臂易(yi)斗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),為(wei)(wei)(wei)生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)湯(tang)餅(bing)耶(ye)”。這(zhe)種生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)湯(tang)餅(bing),已(yi)可(ke)“舉箸食(shi)(shi)”(劉禹錫《贈進士張(zhang)盥》),是(shi)和(he)軟面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團,用(yong)(yong)(yong)刀切條(tiao),將(jiang)條(tiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)細、拉(la)(la)(la)(la)長后(hou)落鍋(guo)煮熟食(shi)(shi)用(yong)(yong)(yong),民間至今(jin)保留此法(fa),稱之為(wei)(wei)(wei)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。王皇(huang)后(hou)為(wei)(wei)(wei)李隆基(ji)做生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)湯(tang)餅(bing)的(de)(de)(de)故(gu)事(shi),發(fa)生(sheng)(sheng)在(zai)李隆基(ji)作(zuo)(zuo)潞州別駕的(de)(de)(de)時(shi)候,可(ke)見唐代(dai)(dai)至少(shao)太(tai)原(yuan)、長治(zhi)等山西(xi)地(di)區已(yi)將(jiang)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)(zuo)為(wei)(wei)(wei)生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)長壽面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)而制(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)和(he)食(shi)(shi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)了(le)。后(hou)來(lai),這(zhe)一拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)藝隨著太(tai)原(yuan)玄中(zhong)寺的(de)(de)(de)凈土(tu)宗東傳日(ri)本,形成(cheng)日(ri)本拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術(shu)的(de)(de)(de)基(ji)礎。到(dao)了(le)宋(song)(song)代(dai)(dai),趙光(guang)(guang)義鏟平晉陽(yang)西(xi)北(bei)系(xi)舟(zhou)山,意欲拔(ba)掉“龍(long)角(jiao)(jiao)”。第二(er)年太(tai)原(yuan)百姓將(jiang)二(er)月初的(de)(de)(de)中(zhong)和(he)節(jie)改(gai)為(wei)(wei)(wei)“龍(long)頭節(jie)”,并(bing)固定在(zai)二(er)月初二(er)以作(zuo)(zuo)紀(ji)念。此日(ri),百姓多吃(chi)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),意思是(shi)你(ni)拔(ba)我“龍(long)角(jiao)(jiao)”,我挑你(ni)“龍(long)筋”、吃(chi)你(ni)“龍(long)須”,以示憤恨(hen)。自此,拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)又被(bei)稱為(wei)(wei)(wei)龍(long)須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),黃(huang)庭堅曾作(zuo)(zuo)詩“湯(tang)餅(bing)一杯銀絲亂(luan),牽絲如縷玉簪橫”。元代(dai)(dai)時(shi),馬可(ke)波羅三(san)訪太(tai)原(yuan),將(jiang)這(zhe)種拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術(shu)帶(dai)回意大(da)利(li),形成(cheng)影響(xiang)西(xi)方面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)技(ji)術(shu)和(he)飲食(shi)(shi)文化的(de)(de)(de)意大(da)利(li)通心(xin)粉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)。小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)何時(shi)發(fa)展成(cheng)大(da)把拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),暫不可(ke)考,但明人宋(song)(song)詡《宋(song)(song)氏養(yang)生(sheng)(sheng)部》記載(zai):“用(yong)(yong)(yong)少(shao)鹽(yan)入(ru)水和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),一斤為(wei)(wei)(wei)率。既勻,沃香油少(shao)許(xu)……漸以兩手纏絡于直指(zhi)、將(jiang)指(zhi)、無名指(zhi)之間,為(wei)(wei)(wei)細條(tiao),先作(zuo)(zuo)沸湯(tang),隨拉(la)(la)(la)(la)隨煮。”可(ke)見山西(xi)明代(dai)(dai)時(shi)已(yi)有大(da)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)技(ji)術(shu)。清(qing)道光(guang)(guang)年間,山西(xi)稷山縣馬金定兄弟,千(qian)里迢迢去(qu)陜西(xi)岐(qi)山做掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)生(sheng)(sheng)意,字號(hao)(hao)“順天成(cheng)”,直到(dao)今(jin)天,岐(qi)山掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)還(huan)沿用(yong)(yong)(yong)這(zhe)個(ge)老字號(hao)(hao)。這(zhe)種掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)起初就是(shi)將(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)好后(hou),掛在(zai)線上曬(shai)干銷售,是(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)(zuo)為(wei)(wei)(wei)半成(cheng)品銷售的(de)(de)(de)典范(fan)。
清(qing)朝末年,拉(la)面(mian)已(yi)成為(wei)山、陜(shan)面(mian)食(shi)(shi)制作(zuo)的(de)成熟技(ji)術。清(qing)末薛(xue)寶辰(chen)著的(de)《素食(shi)(shi)說(shuo)(shuo)略》中(zhong)說(shuo)(shuo),在(zai)山、陜(shan)流行一(yi)種“楨條面(mian)”:“以(yi)水和(he)面(mian),入鹽、清(qing)油揉勻,覆(fu)以(yi)濕(shi)布,俟其軟和(he),扯開(kai)細煮之,名為(wei)楨條面(mian)。做法(fa)以(yi)山西(xi)太原、平定(ding)州(zhou)、陜(shan)西(xi)朝邑、同州(zhou)為(wei)最(zui)。”這種楨條面(mian),即山西(xi)拉(la)面(mian),也稱龍須面(mian),在(zai)清(qing)代還進入宮(gong)廷(ting)。《清(qing)稗類鈔》、《中(zhong)國歷代御膳大觀(guan)》中(zhong)記,內廷(ting)大宴之一(yi)、清(qing)朝帝王的(de)壽(shou)誕宴——萬壽(shou)宴,以(yi)及滿漢全席第一(yi)宴的(de)蒙古親藩(fan)宴,都以(yi)龍須面(mian)作(zuo)為(wei)御宴的(de)重要膳食(shi)(shi)。
“千招易學,一(yi)竅(qiao)難得”。拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)制作技(ji)術(shu)解放前曾被認為(wei)(wei)(wei)是“絕(jue)招”,秘而不傳(chuan)(chuan)。解放后,逐漸在(zai)社會上得以公開(kai),成(cheng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)山西面(mian)(mian)(mian)案的基本功(gong),受(shou)到山西飲食界的重視,并(bing)不斷(duan)在(zai)實踐(jian)探索中細分為(wei)(wei)(wei)小拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(一(yi)根面(mian)(mian)(mian))、大拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(6至8扣(kou))、龍(long)須拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(10扣(kou)以上),空心拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)等(deng)。現在(zai),龍(long)須拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)除食用(yong)之外,還作為(wei)(wei)(wei)一(yi)種表演藝術(shu),拉(la)(la)(la)至14扣(kou)時,共計(ji)28924根,相連長達25公里(li)。全晉會館(guan)的蒙眼拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian),還曾獲(huo)得全國(guo)廚(chu)藝絕(jue)技(ji)超(chao)群(qun)獎,多次(ci)應邀赴(fu)日本、新(xin)加坡、臺(tai)灣等(deng)國(guo)家(jia)和地區表演。2008年初,全晉會館(guan)作為(wei)(wei)(wei)傳(chuan)(chuan)承(cheng)單位的龍(long)須拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian),被列入第二批(pi)國(guo)家(jia)級非(fei)物質文化遺產保(bao)護名(ming)錄(lu),受(shou)到了國(guo)家(jia)的高度重視。龍(long)須拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)制作,這一(yi)山西面(mian)(mian)(mian)食中技(ji)術(shu)性強的特色(se)手工(gong)技(ji)藝和表演藝術(shu),將在(zai)新(xin)時代煥發出(chu)傳(chuan)(chuan)承(cheng)文脈、走向(xiang)和諧、造福社會的無比(bi)絢麗奪目的光(guang)彩。