在山西,人們(men)壽(shou)誕生辰,聚(ju)友團圓時,常(chang)常(chang)要吃這(zhe)種面(mian)(mian),以示長壽(shou)和喜慶。龍(long)須(xu)面(mian)(mian)配料精細,制作講究,其(qi)制作方(fang)法(fa)過(guo)去曾(ceng)被認為(wei)是(shi)絕招,秘而不傳(chuan)。龍(long)須(xu)拉(la)面(mian)(mian)的(de)面(mian)(mian)團被和勻后(hou)(hou),抻開,卷起,再(zai)抻開,再(zai)卷起,如(ru)此(ci)數(shu)扣之(zhi)后(hou)(hou),師傅們(men)將(jiang)拉(la)好的(de)面(mian)(mian)放在撒滿面(mian)(mian)粉的(de)幾(ji)案上(shang)抖開,而后(hou)(hou)兩手像搭毛(mao)線般地將(jiang)面(mian)(mian)抻開并抖動著。整個景象就(jiu)如(ru)瀑(pu)布嘩(hua)嘩(hua)瀉下一般,蔚為(wei)壯觀(guan)。片(pian)刻之(zhi)后(hou)(hou)走上(shang)前(qian)去,看到(dao)拉(la)好的(de)面(mian)(mian)已(yi)如(ru)絲般纖細,這(zhe)已(yi)是(shi)標(biao)準的(de)龍(long)須(xu)面(mian)(mian)了。
先(xian)用(yong)面水(shui)5∶3的比例(li)和好(hao)面,然后(hou)在(zai)(zai)上(shang)面抹點香油醒著,將醒好(hao)的面放(fang)在(zai)(zai)案板(ban)上(shang),揉勻或搓(cuo)(cuo)成長條(tiao)(tiao),雙手提兩端(duan)稍晃,再(zai)搓(cuo)(cuo)成長條(tiao)(tiao)狀,搟成片形,略醒后(hou)用(yong)刀橫切成小手指粗的長條(tiao)(tiao),撒勻面粉或抹勻香油,逐根或幾根并拉,拉成細條(tiao)(tiao)投入(ru)沸水(shui)鍋內(nei),煮熟配上(shang)鹵即成。
龍(long)須拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)源頭是(shi)(shi)始于唐朝的(de)(de)小(xiao)(xiao)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。《新唐書·王(wang)皇后(hou)(hou)傳》記(ji)有(you)“陛下獨不(bu)念阿(a)忠脫紫(zi)半(ban)臂易(yi)斗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),為(wei)(wei)(wei)生(sheng)日(ri)(ri)湯(tang)(tang)餅耶”。這(zhe)種(zhong)生(sheng)日(ri)(ri)湯(tang)(tang)餅,已可(ke)(ke)“舉箸食(shi)”(劉禹錫(xi)《贈進士張盥(guan)》),是(shi)(shi)和軟面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團,用(yong)(yong)刀切條,將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)條拉細(xi)、拉長(chang)后(hou)(hou)落鍋煮(zhu)熟食(shi)用(yong)(yong),民間(jian)至(zhi)今保留(liu)此(ci)法,稱(cheng)之(zhi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)小(xiao)(xiao)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。王(wang)皇后(hou)(hou)為(wei)(wei)(wei)李(li)(li)隆(long)(long)基(ji)做(zuo)生(sheng)日(ri)(ri)湯(tang)(tang)餅的(de)(de)故事(shi),發(fa)(fa)生(sheng)在李(li)(li)隆(long)(long)基(ji)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)潞州(zhou)別駕的(de)(de)時(shi)候,可(ke)(ke)見唐代(dai)(dai)至(zhi)少太(tai)(tai)原(yuan)、長(chang)治等山(shan)西地區已將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)小(xiao)(xiao)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)為(wei)(wei)(wei)生(sheng)日(ri)(ri)長(chang)壽(shou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)而制(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)和食(shi)用(yong)(yong)了。后(hou)(hou)來,這(zhe)一拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)藝隨著太(tai)(tai)原(yuan)玄中寺(si)的(de)(de)凈土宗東傳日(ri)(ri)本,形成(cheng)(cheng)日(ri)(ri)本拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術(shu)(shu)的(de)(de)基(ji)礎。到了宋(song)代(dai)(dai),趙光義鏟平(ping)晉陽(yang)西北系舟山(shan),意(yi)欲拔掉(diao)“龍(long)角”。第二(er)(er)年(nian)太(tai)(tai)原(yuan)百姓將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)二(er)(er)月初的(de)(de)中和節(jie)改為(wei)(wei)(wei)“龍(long)頭節(jie)”,并固定(ding)在二(er)(er)月初二(er)(er)以(yi)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)紀念。此(ci)日(ri)(ri),百姓多吃拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),意(yi)思是(shi)(shi)你拔我(wo)“龍(long)角”,我(wo)挑你“龍(long)筋”、吃你“龍(long)須”,以(yi)示憤恨。自此(ci),拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)又被(bei)稱(cheng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)龍(long)須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),黃庭堅曾作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)詩(shi)“湯(tang)(tang)餅一杯(bei)銀絲(si)亂(luan),牽絲(si)如縷玉簪橫”。元(yuan)代(dai)(dai)時(shi),馬(ma)可(ke)(ke)波羅三訪太(tai)(tai)原(yuan),將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)這(zhe)種(zhong)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術(shu)(shu)帶回意(yi)大(da)(da)(da)利,形成(cheng)(cheng)影(ying)響西方面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)技(ji)術(shu)(shu)和飲食(shi)文化的(de)(de)意(yi)大(da)(da)(da)利通(tong)心(xin)粉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)。小(xiao)(xiao)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)何時(shi)發(fa)(fa)展成(cheng)(cheng)大(da)(da)(da)把拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),暫(zan)不(bu)可(ke)(ke)考,但明人(ren)宋(song)詡《宋(song)氏養生(sheng)部(bu)》記(ji)載(zai):“用(yong)(yong)少鹽入水和面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),一斤為(wei)(wei)(wei)率。既勻,沃(wo)香油少許……漸以(yi)兩手纏絡于直(zhi)指(zhi)、將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)指(zhi)、無名指(zhi)之(zhi)間(jian),為(wei)(wei)(wei)細(xi)條,先作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)沸湯(tang)(tang),隨拉隨煮(zhu)。”可(ke)(ke)見山(shan)西明代(dai)(dai)時(shi)已有(you)大(da)(da)(da)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)技(ji)術(shu)(shu)。清道光年(nian)間(jian),山(shan)西稷山(shan)縣馬(ma)金定(ding)兄弟,千里迢迢去陜西岐(qi)山(shan)做(zuo)掛(gua)(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)生(sheng)意(yi),字(zi)號(hao)“順天成(cheng)(cheng)”,直(zhi)到今天,岐(qi)山(shan)掛(gua)(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)還沿(yan)用(yong)(yong)這(zhe)個老字(zi)號(hao)。這(zhe)種(zhong)掛(gua)(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)起初就(jiu)是(shi)(shi)將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)拉好后(hou)(hou),掛(gua)(gua)在線上曬干銷(xiao)售(shou),是(shi)(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)為(wei)(wei)(wei)半(ban)成(cheng)(cheng)品(pin)銷(xiao)售(shou)的(de)(de)典范(fan)。
清(qing)朝(chao)末(mo)年,拉(la)面(mian)已成(cheng)為(wei)山(shan)(shan)、陜面(mian)食(shi)制作(zuo)的(de)成(cheng)熟技術。清(qing)末(mo)薛寶辰著的(de)《素(su)食(shi)說(shuo)略(lve)》中(zhong)說(shuo),在山(shan)(shan)、陜流行一種(zhong)“楨(zhen)條(tiao)面(mian)”:“以水和(he)面(mian),入鹽、清(qing)油(you)揉勻,覆(fu)以濕布(bu),俟其軟和(he),扯(che)開(kai)細煮之,名(ming)為(wei)楨(zhen)條(tiao)面(mian)。做法以山(shan)(shan)西(xi)太(tai)原、平定州、陜西(xi)朝(chao)邑、同州為(wei)最。”這種(zhong)楨(zhen)條(tiao)面(mian),即山(shan)(shan)西(xi)拉(la)面(mian),也稱(cheng)龍須(xu)(xu)面(mian),在清(qing)代還進入宮廷(ting)(ting)。《清(qing)稗類(lei)鈔》、《中(zhong)國歷代御膳大(da)觀》中(zhong)記(ji),內廷(ting)(ting)大(da)宴(yan)(yan)之一、清(qing)朝(chao)帝王的(de)壽誕宴(yan)(yan)——萬(wan)壽宴(yan)(yan),以及滿漢全席(xi)第(di)一宴(yan)(yan)的(de)蒙古親(qin)藩宴(yan)(yan),都(dou)以龍須(xu)(xu)面(mian)作(zuo)為(wei)御宴(yan)(yan)的(de)重(zhong)要膳食(shi)。
“千(qian)招易學,一竅(qiao)難得(de)”。拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制作技術解放前(qian)曾(ceng)被(bei)認為(wei)是(shi)“絕(jue)招”,秘而(er)不傳。解放后,逐漸在社會(hui)上(shang)得(de)以公開(kai),成為(wei)山(shan)西面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)案的(de)基本功,受到(dao)山(shan)西飲(yin)食界的(de)重視(shi),并不斷(duan)在實踐(jian)探索中細分為(wei)小(xiao)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(一根面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian))、大拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(6至8扣)、龍須(xu)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(10扣以上(shang)),空心拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)等。現在,龍須(xu)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)除食用之外,還(huan)作為(wei)一種表演藝術,拉至14扣時(shi),共(gong)計28924根,相連長達25公里。全晉(jin)會(hui)館的(de)蒙眼拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),還(huan)曾(ceng)獲得(de)全國廚(chu)藝絕(jue)技超(chao)群獎(jiang),多次(ci)應邀赴日本、新加坡、臺灣等國家(jia)(jia)和(he)地區表演。2008年初(chu),全晉(jin)會(hui)館作為(wei)傳承單位的(de)龍須(xu)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),被(bei)列(lie)入第二批國家(jia)(jia)級非(fei)物質文化遺產保(bao)護名錄,受到(dao)了國家(jia)(jia)的(de)高度重視(shi)。龍須(xu)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制作,這一山(shan)西面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食中技術性強(qiang)的(de)特色(se)手工技藝和(he)表演藝術,將在新時(shi)代煥發出傳承文脈、走向和(he)諧(xie)、造(zao)福社會(hui)的(de)無比絢麗奪目(mu)的(de)光(guang)彩。