在(zai)山(shan)西(xi),人(ren)們壽誕(dan)生辰(chen),聚友團圓時(shi),常(chang)常(chang)要吃這種面,以示(shi)長壽和(he)喜慶。龍(long)(long)須(xu)面配料精(jing)細,制(zhi)作講究,其制(zhi)作方法過去曾被(bei)認為是絕招,秘(mi)而不(bu)傳。龍(long)(long)須(xu)拉面的(de)面團被(bei)和(he)勻后(hou),抻開(kai),卷起,再抻開(kai),再卷起,如此數扣之(zhi)后(hou),師傅們將拉好(hao)的(de)面放在(zai)撒滿面粉的(de)幾案上(shang)抖開(kai),而后(hou)兩手(shou)像搭毛線般(ban)地(di)將面抻開(kai)并(bing)抖動著。整個景象就如瀑布嘩嘩瀉下一般(ban),蔚為壯觀。片刻之(zhi)后(hou)走上(shang)前去,看到拉好(hao)的(de)面已如絲般(ban)纖細,這已是標準的(de)龍(long)(long)須(xu)面了。
先用(yong)面水(shui)5∶3的比例和好面,然后(hou)在上(shang)面抹(mo)(mo)點香油(you)醒著,將醒好的面放(fang)在案(an)板上(shang),揉勻(yun)或搓(cuo)成(cheng)長(chang)條,雙手(shou)提兩端稍晃,再(zai)搓(cuo)成(cheng)長(chang)條狀,搟成(cheng)片(pian)形,略醒后(hou)用(yong)刀橫切成(cheng)小手(shou)指粗(cu)的長(chang)條,撒勻(yun)面粉或抹(mo)(mo)勻(yun)香油(you),逐根(gen)或幾(ji)根(gen)并拉,拉成(cheng)細條投入(ru)沸水(shui)鍋內,煮熟配(pei)上(shang)鹵即成(cheng)。
龍(long)須(xu)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)源(yuan)頭是(shi)始于唐朝(chao)的(de)小拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。《新唐書·王(wang)皇后(hou)傳》記(ji)有“陛下獨(du)不念(nian)阿忠(zhong)脫(tuo)紫(zi)半臂易斗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),為(wei)(wei)生(sheng)日湯(tang)餅(bing)(bing)耶”。這(zhe)種(zhong)(zhong)生(sheng)日湯(tang)餅(bing)(bing),已可(ke)“舉箸食(shi)(shi)”(劉禹錫(xi)《贈進士張盥》),是(shi)和(he)(he)軟面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團,用(yong)(yong)(yong)刀切條,將(jiang)條拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)細、拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)長后(hou)落鍋煮熟食(shi)(shi)用(yong)(yong)(yong),民(min)間(jian)(jian)至今(jin)保留此(ci)法,稱之為(wei)(wei)小拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。王(wang)皇后(hou)為(wei)(wei)李隆基(ji)做生(sheng)日湯(tang)餅(bing)(bing)的(de)故事,發生(sheng)在李隆基(ji)作(zuo)(zuo)潞州(zhou)別駕的(de)時(shi)候(hou),可(ke)見(jian)唐代(dai)至少(shao)太原(yuan)、長治(zhi)等山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)西地區已將(jiang)小拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)(zuo)為(wei)(wei)生(sheng)日長壽面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)而制(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)和(he)(he)食(shi)(shi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)了。后(hou)來(lai),這(zhe)一(yi)(yi)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)藝隨(sui)著太原(yuan)玄中寺的(de)凈土宗(zong)東傳日本(ben),形(xing)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)日本(ben)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術(shu)的(de)基(ji)礎。到了宋代(dai),趙光義鏟平晉陽西北(bei)系舟山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),意(yi)欲拔掉“龍(long)角”。第二(er)(er)年(nian)太原(yuan)百姓(xing)將(jiang)二(er)(er)月初的(de)中和(he)(he)節改(gai)為(wei)(wei)“龍(long)頭節”,并固定(ding)(ding)在二(er)(er)月初二(er)(er)以(yi)作(zuo)(zuo)紀念(nian)。此(ci)日,百姓(xing)多(duo)吃拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),意(yi)思是(shi)你拔我“龍(long)角”,我挑你“龍(long)筋”、吃你“龍(long)須(xu)”,以(yi)示憤恨。自此(ci),拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)又被稱為(wei)(wei)龍(long)須(xu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),黃庭(ting)堅(jian)曾作(zuo)(zuo)詩(shi)“湯(tang)餅(bing)(bing)一(yi)(yi)杯銀(yin)絲亂,牽絲如縷玉簪橫”。元(yuan)代(dai)時(shi),馬可(ke)波羅(luo)三訪太原(yuan),將(jiang)這(zhe)種(zhong)(zhong)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術(shu)帶回意(yi)大(da)(da)利,形(xing)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)影(ying)響西方(fang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)技(ji)術(shu)和(he)(he)飲食(shi)(shi)文化的(de)意(yi)大(da)(da)利通(tong)心粉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)。小拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)何(he)時(shi)發展成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)大(da)(da)把拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),暫不可(ke)考,但(dan)明人宋詡《宋氏養(yang)生(sheng)部》記(ji)載:“用(yong)(yong)(yong)少(shao)鹽入(ru)水和(he)(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),一(yi)(yi)斤為(wei)(wei)率。既勻,沃(wo)香油少(shao)許……漸以(yi)兩手纏絡于直(zhi)指、將(jiang)指、無名指之間(jian)(jian),為(wei)(wei)細條,先作(zuo)(zuo)沸湯(tang),隨(sui)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)隨(sui)煮。”可(ke)見(jian)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)西明代(dai)時(shi)已有大(da)(da)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)技(ji)術(shu)。清道光年(nian)間(jian)(jian),山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)西稷山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)縣馬金(jin)定(ding)(ding)兄(xiong)弟,千里(li)迢(tiao)迢(tiao)去(qu)陜西岐(qi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)做掛(gua)(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)生(sheng)意(yi),字號“順天(tian)(tian)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)”,直(zhi)到今(jin)天(tian)(tian),岐(qi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)掛(gua)(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)還沿用(yong)(yong)(yong)這(zhe)個老(lao)字號。這(zhe)種(zhong)(zhong)掛(gua)(gua)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)起初就是(shi)將(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)(la)好后(hou),掛(gua)(gua)在線上曬干銷售,是(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)(zuo)為(wei)(wei)半成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)品(pin)銷售的(de)典范。
清(qing)朝末年,拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)已成為(wei)山(shan)、陜(shan)(shan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食制作的成熟技術。清(qing)末薛寶辰著的《素食說略》中(zhong)說,在(zai)山(shan)、陜(shan)(shan)流行一種“楨(zhen)(zhen)條(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”:“以(yi)水和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),入鹽、清(qing)油揉勻,覆(fu)以(yi)濕布,俟(si)其軟和(he),扯(che)開(kai)細煮(zhu)之,名為(wei)楨(zhen)(zhen)條(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。做法以(yi)山(shan)西(xi)太原、平定州、陜(shan)(shan)西(xi)朝邑、同州為(wei)最。”這種楨(zhen)(zhen)條(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),即山(shan)西(xi)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),也稱龍須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),在(zai)清(qing)代還(huan)進入宮(gong)廷。《清(qing)稗(bai)類(lei)鈔》、《中(zhong)國歷代御(yu)膳(shan)大(da)觀》中(zhong)記,內廷大(da)宴之一、清(qing)朝帝王的壽(shou)誕宴——萬壽(shou)宴,以(yi)及(ji)滿漢全席第一宴的蒙古親藩宴,都以(yi)龍須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作為(wei)御(yu)宴的重(zhong)要膳(shan)食。
“千招(zhao)易(yi)學,一(yi)竅難得”。拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)制作技(ji)術(shu)解(jie)(jie)放前曾(ceng)被(bei)認為(wei)(wei)(wei)是“絕招(zhao)”,秘(mi)而不傳(chuan)。解(jie)(jie)放后,逐漸在社會(hui)(hui)上(shang)得以(yi)公開(kai),成為(wei)(wei)(wei)山西(xi)面(mian)(mian)案的(de)基(ji)本功(gong),受到(dao)(dao)山西(xi)飲食界的(de)重視(shi),并不斷在實(shi)踐探索中細分為(wei)(wei)(wei)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(一(yi)根(gen)(gen)面(mian)(mian))、大拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(6至8扣)、龍(long)(long)須(xu)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(10扣以(yi)上(shang)),空心拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)等(deng)(deng)。現在,龍(long)(long)須(xu)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)除食用之外,還作為(wei)(wei)(wei)一(yi)種表演(yan)(yan)藝(yi)術(shu),拉(la)(la)至14扣時(shi),共計28924根(gen)(gen),相連長達(da)25公里。全晉會(hui)(hui)館的(de)蒙(meng)眼拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian),還曾(ceng)獲得全國廚藝(yi)絕技(ji)超群獎(jiang),多(duo)次應邀赴日本、新加坡、臺灣等(deng)(deng)國家和地(di)區表演(yan)(yan)。2008年初,全晉會(hui)(hui)館作為(wei)(wei)(wei)傳(chuan)承(cheng)單位的(de)龍(long)(long)須(xu)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian),被(bei)列入第二(er)批國家級非物質(zhi)文(wen)化遺(yi)產保護名(ming)錄,受到(dao)(dao)了國家的(de)高度重視(shi)。龍(long)(long)須(xu)拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)制作,這(zhe)一(yi)山西(xi)面(mian)(mian)食中技(ji)術(shu)性強的(de)特色手工技(ji)藝(yi)和表演(yan)(yan)藝(yi)術(shu),將在新時(shi)代煥發出傳(chuan)承(cheng)文(wen)脈、走向(xiang)和諧、造福(fu)社會(hui)(hui)的(de)無比絢麗奪目(mu)的(de)光彩(cai)。