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太原龍須拉面介紹

在山西，人們(men)壽(shou)誕生辰，聚友團(tuan)圓時，常(chang)常(chang)要吃這(zhe)(zhe)種面(mian)，以示長壽(shou)和(he)(he)喜(xi)慶。龍(long)須面(mian)配料精(jing)細，制作(zuo)講究，其制作(zuo)方法過去曾(ceng)被(bei)(bei)認為是絕招，秘(mi)而不傳。龍(long)須拉面(mian)的面(mian)團(tuan)被(bei)(bei)和(he)(he)勻后，抻開(kai)(kai)(kai)，卷起，再抻開(kai)(kai)(kai)，再卷起，如(ru)此數(shu)扣(kou)之后，師(shi)傅們(men)將拉好(hao)的面(mian)放在撒滿面(mian)粉的幾(ji)案上抖(dou)開(kai)(kai)(kai)，而后兩手像(xiang)搭毛線般地將面(mian)抻開(kai)(kai)(kai)并抖(dou)動著。整(zheng)個景象(xiang)就如(ru)瀑(pu)布嘩(hua)嘩(hua)瀉下一(yi)般，蔚為壯觀。片刻之后走上前去，看(kan)到拉好(hao)的面(mian)已如(ru)絲般纖細，這(zhe)(zhe)已是標準(zhun)的龍(long)須面(mian)了。

龍須拉面做法

先(xian)用面水5∶3的比例和好面，然(ran)后(hou)在上面抹(mo)點香油醒(xing)著，將醒(xing)好的面放在案板上，揉(rou)勻或搓(cuo)成長條，雙(shuang)手提兩端稍晃，再搓(cuo)成長條狀，搟成片形，略(lve)醒(xing)后(hou)用刀橫切成小手指粗的長條，撒勻面粉(fen)或抹(mo)勻香油，逐根或幾根并(bing)拉，拉成細條投(tou)入沸(fei)水鍋(guo)內，煮(zhu)熟配(pei)上鹵即成。

龍須拉面的起源故事

龍(long)(long)須拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)源頭是(shi)始于(yu)(yu)唐朝的(de)小(xiao)(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。《新唐書·王皇(huang)后(hou)傳(chuan)》記有“陛(bi)下獨不(bu)念阿忠脫紫(zi)半(ban)(ban)臂易斗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，為(wei)(wei)生日(ri)(ri)湯(tang)(tang)(tang)餅(bing)耶”。這(zhe)(zhe)種(zhong)(zhong)生日(ri)(ri)湯(tang)(tang)(tang)餅(bing)，已可(ke)(ke)(ke)“舉箸(zhu)食”（劉禹(yu)錫《贈進士張盥》），是(shi)和軟面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)，用刀切(qie)條(tiao)，將(jiang)(jiang)條(tiao)拉(la)(la)(la)細(xi)、拉(la)(la)(la)長(chang)后(hou)落鍋(guo)煮熟食用，民間至(zhi)今(jin)保留此(ci)(ci)法，稱(cheng)之(zhi)為(wei)(wei)小(xiao)(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。王皇(huang)后(hou)為(wei)(wei)李(li)隆基做生日(ri)(ri)湯(tang)(tang)(tang)餅(bing)的(de)故(gu)事，發生在李(li)隆基作潞州別駕的(de)時(shi)候，可(ke)(ke)(ke)見唐代至(zhi)少(shao)太原(yuan)、長(chang)治等山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)地(di)區已將(jiang)(jiang)小(xiao)(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作為(wei)(wei)生日(ri)(ri)長(chang)壽面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)而制作和食用了。后(hou)來，這(zhe)(zhe)一(yi)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技藝(yi)隨著太原(yuan)玄中寺的(de)凈土宗東傳(chuan)日(ri)(ri)本(ben)，形成(cheng)日(ri)(ri)本(ben)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技術的(de)基礎(chu)。到了宋代，趙光義鏟平晉陽(yang)西(xi)(xi)北系舟山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)，意(yi)欲拔掉(diao)“龍(long)(long)角”。第二(er)(er)年太原(yuan)百姓(xing)將(jiang)(jiang)二(er)(er)月初的(de)中和節(jie)改為(wei)(wei)“龍(long)(long)頭節(jie)”，并(bing)固定(ding)(ding)在二(er)(er)月初二(er)(er)以(yi)作紀念。此(ci)(ci)日(ri)(ri)，百姓(xing)多吃拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，意(yi)思是(shi)你拔我(wo)(wo)“龍(long)(long)角”，我(wo)(wo)挑你“龍(long)(long)筋”、吃你“龍(long)(long)須”，以(yi)示憤恨(hen)。自此(ci)(ci)，拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)又被(bei)稱(cheng)為(wei)(wei)龍(long)(long)須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，黃(huang)庭(ting)堅曾作詩“湯(tang)(tang)(tang)餅(bing)一(yi)杯銀絲(si)(si)亂，牽絲(si)(si)如縷玉簪橫”。元代時(shi)，馬可(ke)(ke)(ke)波羅三訪太原(yuan)，將(jiang)(jiang)這(zhe)(zhe)種(zhong)(zhong)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技術帶回意(yi)大(da)利(li)(li)，形成(cheng)影響西(xi)(xi)方面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食技術和飲(yin)食文化的(de)意(yi)大(da)利(li)(li)通(tong)心(xin)粉(fen)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食。小(xiao)(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)何時(shi)發展成(cheng)大(da)把拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，暫不(bu)可(ke)(ke)(ke)考，但明人(ren)宋詡(xu)《宋氏養生部》記載：“用少(shao)鹽(yan)入水和面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，一(yi)斤為(wei)(wei)率(lv)。既勻，沃(wo)香(xiang)油(you)少(shao)許……漸以(yi)兩(liang)手纏絡于(yu)(yu)直指、將(jiang)(jiang)指、無名指之(zhi)間，為(wei)(wei)細(xi)條(tiao)，先作沸湯(tang)(tang)(tang)，隨拉(la)(la)(la)隨煮。”可(ke)(ke)(ke)見山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)明代時(shi)已有大(da)拉(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制作技術。清道光年間，山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)稷(ji)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)縣馬金定(ding)(ding)兄弟，千里迢迢去陜西(xi)(xi)岐(qi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)做掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)生意(yi)，字號“順天成(cheng)”，直到今(jin)天，岐(qi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)還(huan)沿用這(zhe)(zhe)個老字號。這(zhe)(zhe)種(zhong)(zhong)掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)起初就是(shi)將(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)拉(la)(la)(la)好(hao)后(hou)，掛在線(xian)上曬干銷售，是(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作為(wei)(wei)半(ban)(ban)成(cheng)品銷售的(de)典范。

清(qing)朝(chao)末年，拉面(mian)(mian)已成(cheng)為(wei)(wei)山、陜面(mian)(mian)食制(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)的成(cheng)熟技(ji)術。清(qing)末薛(xue)寶(bao)辰著的《素食說略》中(zhong)說，在(zai)山、陜流行一種“楨(zhen)條(tiao)面(mian)(mian)”：“以(yi)(yi)水和面(mian)(mian)，入(ru)鹽、清(qing)油揉勻，覆以(yi)(yi)濕布，俟其(qi)軟和，扯開細煮之，名為(wei)(wei)楨(zhen)條(tiao)面(mian)(mian)。做法以(yi)(yi)山西太(tai)原、平(ping)定州(zhou)、陜西朝(chao)邑、同(tong)州(zhou)為(wei)(wei)最(zui)。”這(zhe)種楨(zhen)條(tiao)面(mian)(mian)，即山西拉面(mian)(mian)，也稱龍須面(mian)(mian)，在(zai)清(qing)代還進入(ru)宮廷。《清(qing)稗類鈔》、《中(zhong)國歷代御膳(shan)大(da)觀》中(zhong)記，內廷大(da)宴之一、清(qing)朝(chao)帝(di)王(wang)的壽(shou)誕宴——萬(wan)壽(shou)宴，以(yi)(yi)及滿漢全席第一宴的蒙古(gu)親藩宴，都(dou)以(yi)(yi)龍須面(mian)(mian)作(zuo)(zuo)為(wei)(wei)御宴的重要膳(shan)食。

“千招易學(xue)，一竅難得(de)(de)”。拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制作技術(shu)(shu)解(jie)(jie)放前曾被(bei)認為(wei)(wei)(wei)是“絕招”，秘而不(bu)(bu)傳(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)。解(jie)(jie)放后，逐漸在(zai)社會(hui)上得(de)(de)以公開，成為(wei)(wei)(wei)山西面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)案的基本(ben)功，受到山西飲食(shi)界的重視，并不(bu)(bu)斷在(zai)實(shi)踐探索中(zhong)細分為(wei)(wei)(wei)小拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)（一根(gen)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)）、大拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)（6至8扣）、龍(long)須(xu)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)（10扣以上），空心拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)等。現在(zai)，龍(long)須(xu)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)除(chu)食(shi)用之外(wai)，還作為(wei)(wei)(wei)一種(zhong)表演(yan)藝(yi)術(shu)(shu)，拉至14扣時，共(gong)計(ji)28924根(gen)，相連長達25公里。全(quan)晉會(hui)館(guan)的蒙眼拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，還曾獲得(de)(de)全(quan)國廚藝(yi)絕技超(chao)群(qun)獎，多次應邀赴(fu)日本(ben)、新加坡(po)、臺灣等國家(jia)和地(di)區(qu)表演(yan)。2008年初(chu)，全(quan)晉會(hui)館(guan)作為(wei)(wei)(wei)傳(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)承單位的龍(long)須(xu)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，被(bei)列入第(di)二(er)批國家(jia)級(ji)非(fei)物質文化遺產保(bao)護名(ming)錄，受到了國家(jia)的高度(du)重視。龍(long)須(xu)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制作，這一山西面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)中(zhong)技術(shu)(shu)性強的特色手工技藝(yi)和表演(yan)藝(yi)術(shu)(shu)，將在(zai)新時代煥發出傳(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)承文脈、走(zou)向和諧、造(zao)福社會(hui)的無比絢麗奪目(mu)的光彩。