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簡介

玄妙(miao)觀是位于中國東南部(bu)著名旅(lv)游城市蘇(su)州的(de)著名道(dao)觀，創建于公元276年(nian)，最初(chu)名叫“真(zhen)慶(qing)道(dao)院(yuan)”，后來(lai)曾改稱(cheng)為(wei)“開元宮”、“天慶(qing)觀”。公元1295年(nian)元朝皇帝(di)下(xia)令改為(wei)玄妙(miao)觀。玄妙(miao)觀至(zhi)今已有1700多(duo)年(nian)的(de)歷史(shi)，所(suo)以被稱(cheng)為(wei)“江(jiang)南第(di)一古觀”。

玄妙觀坐(zuo)落在(zai)蘇(su)州古城中(zhong)心，其主殿三清殿建(jian)成于南宋年間(jian)，是蘇(su)州僅存(cun)的(de)一座(zuo)南宋木(mu)構殿宇式建(jian)筑，歷(li)史悠久、規(gui)模宏偉，在(zai)中(zhong)國(guo)(guo)建(jian)筑史上具有重(zhong)要的(de)歷(li)史價(jia)值，1982年被列(lie)為全(quan)國(guo)(guo)重(zhong)點(dian)文物保護單位。

現玄妙(miao)觀進(jin)行了修(xiu)復(fu)整治，有(you)(you)殿(dian)堂七座，中路(lu)有(you)(you)正(zheng)山(shan)門、三清殿(dian)，東路(lu)有(you)(you)文昌殿(dian)、斗(dou)姆閣(ge)、壽(shou)星殿(dian)，西路(lu)有(you)(you)雷尊殿(dian)、財神殿(dian)。觀內(nei)有(you)(you)很多珍貴的文物遺(yi)跡(ji)，道教(jiao)文化內(nei)涵深厚,是中國少(shao)有(you)(you)的完整道觀建筑(zhu)群，其中三清殿(dian)現仍保(bao)留著宋代建筑(zhu)的風貌與特點(dian)。

玄妙觀(guan)歷史(shi)上曾是(shi)蘇州(zhou)宗教文(wen)化中(zhong)心，現(xian)是(shi)蘇州(zhou)地(di)區(qu)道教活動的(de)主要(yao)場(chang)所。由于優越的(de)地(di)理位置，眾(zhong)多(duo)的(de)文(wen)物古跡以及豐富(fu)的(de)道教文(wen)化內涵，玄妙觀(guan)已成為蘇州(zhou)市(shi)著(zhu)名的(de)旅游景點之一。

歷史沿革

蘇州香火最盛的(de)地方并非佛教寺廟，而是(shi)道教的(de)玄妙(miao)觀(guan)。

玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)始建(jian)于西晉，已(yi)有(you)1700余年的(de)(de)(de)歷史。觀(guan)(guan)內(nei)建(jian)于南宋的(de)(de)(de)三(san)清(qing)(qing)殿是(shi)江南最大的(de)(de)(de)木(mu)構古建(jian)筑。殿內(nei)供(gong)奉的(de)(de)(de)高(gao)達17米的(de)(de)(de)三(san)清(qing)(qing)（上清(qing)(qing)、玉清(qing)(qing)、太清(qing)(qing)）塑像，堪(kan)稱宋代雕(diao)塑的(de)(de)(de)上佳(jia)之(zhi)作。玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)中現存有(you)唐吳道(dao)子(zi)畫老君像、玄宗贊、顏真卿書(shu)法等碑(bei)刻，彌足(zu)珍貴．

除三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和(he)(he)正山門外，玄妙(miao)觀還有歷(li)代(dai)建(jian)(jian)成(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)副(fu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和(he)(he)二十(shi)四(si)座配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，從東(dong)腳門依次為：神(shen)(shen)州殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan))、太陽(yang)宮(清(qing)(qing))、天醫藥王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song))、真(zhen)官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan))、天后殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、文昌殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、祖(zu)師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan))、斗姆閣(清(qing)(qing) )、火神(shen)(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、三(san)(san)茅殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song))、機房殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(明(ming))、關帝(di)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan))、東(dong)岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song))、痘司(si)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song))等十(shi)四(si)處(chu)(chu)，西腳門配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)依次為：雷尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan))、壽星殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song))、水府殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))等七處(chu)(chu)。三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)后為彌羅寶閣，再后面(mian)是蓑衣(yi)真(zhen)人殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song)(song))、肝(gan)胃殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、薩祖(zu)方丈殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。各(ge)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)所供神(shen)(shen)像大都出(chu)自神(shen)(shen)話(hua)傳(chuan)說，如太陽(yang)神(shen)(shen)、雷神(shen)(shen)、火神(shen)(shen)、關帝(di)、文曲星、灶神(shen)(shen)、土地、八仙、壽星、觀音等，體現了(le)蘇(su)州地方文化特(te)色(se)和(he)(he)民間信仰的(de)(de)(de)色(se)彩，曾(ceng)是城(cheng)鄉(xiang)老百姓精神(shen)(shen)寄托和(he)(he)休閑娛樂(le)的(de)(de)(de)去所。從康熙十(shi)三(san)(san)年(nian)(公元(yuan)(yuan)674年(nian))玄妙(miao)觀建(jian)(jian)筑群圖上可以看(kan)出(chu)東(dong)至洙泗巷， 西臨(lin)大成(cheng)(cheng)坊，北至舊學前河，南面(mian)有黃色(se)照墻橫亙正山門兩側，整個(ge)建(jian)(jian)筑群十(shi)分壯(zhuang)觀。彈丸之(zhi)地集中了(le)宋(song)(song)元(yuan)(yuan)明(ming)清(qing)(qing)歷(li)代(dai)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇，真(zhen)可謂是一(yi)座古(gu)典建(jian)(jian)筑的(de)(de)(de)博物館。

據道光《元妙觀志》圖載，清(qing)(qing)代玄(xuan)妙觀盛(sheng)時占(zhan)地5.5萬平方米(mi)，共有30多座殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)閣。中(zhong)軸(zhou)線上(shang)自南而北(bei)依(yi)次為(wei)(wei)正山(shan)門、三(san)(san)(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、彌羅(luo)寶(bao)閣，其(qi)他殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)閣分布在25處自成(cheng)院落的“子院”內，如眾星拱月(yue)般從東、西(xi)、北(bei)三(san)(san)(san)(san)面圍繞著(zhu)中(zhong)軸(zhou)線上(shang)的主要(yao)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)閣，形成(cheng)一片巍峨壯麗的建筑(zhu)群(qun)。但自咸豐、同(tong)治(zhi)之際遭(zao)受戰火(huo)后，即漸趨衰落，未能恢復(fu)舊觀，宏偉的彌羅(luo)寶(bao)閣也于民(min)國(guo)元年(nian)(1912)8月(yue)28日失(shi)火(huo)焚毀(hui)。1956年(nian)，整修(xiu)三(san)(san)(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、 正山(shan)門及東、西(xi)諸殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)門墻，清(qing)(qing)理廣庭。同(tong)年(nian)，玄(xuan)妙觀三(san)(san)(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)被(bei)列為(wei)(wei)省文物(wu)保護(hu)單位(wei)。1966年(nian)后遭(zao)受損壞，1981年(nian)再修(xiu)三(san)(san)(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)及正山(shan)門。1982年(nian)，玄(xuan)妙觀三(san)(san)(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)被(bei)列為(wei)(wei)全(quan)國(guo)重點文物(wu)保護(hu)單位(wei)。

蘇州(zhou)市政府又連(lian)續撥巨(ju)款重(zhong)修玄妙觀正山門和三清殿，殿內神(shen)像重(zhong)塑金身，已于1999年元月開(kai)光慶典(dian)。

玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)多(duo)數(shu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇(yu)各有(you)(you)山(shan)門(men)、照墻，觀(guan)(guan)(guan)內(nei)(nei)廣場(chang)商販(fan)與百戲雜陳。觀(guan)(guan)(guan)內(nei)(nei)方丈(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)為穹窿山(shan)上真觀(guan)(guan)(guan)下院(yuan)，直至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)民國(guo)初，該殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)振法堂(tang)內(nei)(nei)高懸戒規，內(nei)(nei)容主(zhu)要有(you)(you)不準娶家室、不準目無師長等(deng)。違(wei)反戒規者，輕則(ze)(ze)重責、重則(ze)(ze)開(kai)除(chu)(俗稱“貼革(ge)條”)。方丈(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)為一(yi)(yi)(yi)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)之主(zhu)。民國(guo)元(yuan)(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)8月28日(ri)， 大(da)廈三(san)(san)層、飛甍(meng)隆棟的(de)彌羅寶閣(ge)失火(huo)(huo)焚毀，內(nei)(nei)僅金(jin)身神像(xiang)就有(you)(you)380余(yu)尊，閶門(men)外(wai)十房(fang)(fang)莊淘沙戶曾(ceng)擬出(chu)資1萬(wan)元(yuan)(yuan)承包清除(chu)火(huo)(huo)場(chang)垃圾。方丈(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)倪仰云因失火(huo)(huo)被提(ti)出(chu)公訴并辭職，自此方丈(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)威信大(da)降(jiang)，戒規松弛。方丈(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)管(guan)2房(fang)(fang)、6殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)北(bei)伐時，方丈(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)還有(you)(you)五六處山(shan)房(fang)(fang)，近(jin)百間屋。各房(fang)(fang)輪(lun)流執管(guan)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)事，有(you)(you)帳房(fang)(fang)、文(wen)書及(ji)香(xiang)工10余(yu)人(ren)，廚師2人(ren)。其(qi)余(yu)12房(fang)(fang)分(fen)掌一(yi)(yi)(yi)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)二、三(san)(san)座殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，實各為一(yi)(yi)(yi)獨立(li)道院(yuan)。22年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)太陽宮(gong)住持許(xu)鶴梅曾(ceng)去上海合(he)伙開(kai)設(she)玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)分(fen)院(yuan)，一(yi)(yi)(yi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)后(hou)因生意不好而收(shou)歇。20年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)代至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)抗日(ri)戰爭(zheng)中，祖師、灶君、八仙、壽星(xing)(xing)、水府、關帝諸(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)相繼圮廢(fei)、改(gai)建(jian)或被日(ri)機轟炸(zha)震坍。三(san)(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)擺滿(man)字畫(hua)攤(tan)(tan)，屋面(mian)(mian)被敵偽人(ren)員捉鴿子踐踏得嚴重漏(lou)雨(yu)。機房(fang)(fang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)曾(ceng)開(kai)設(she)賭場(chang)，長期(qi)出(chu)租和被典(dian)賣(mai)的(de)有(you)(you)神州殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和痘司殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。民國(guo)6、32、33和35年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)曾(ceng)先后(hou)修(xiu)葺東岳、真官(guan)(guan)、雷尊和觀(guan)(guan)(guan)音(yin)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，但(dan)其(qi)余(yu)諸(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)日(ri)趨(qu)破敗。近(jin)解放時正山(shan)門(men)淪(lun)為銀元(yuan)(yuan)市場(chang)。至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)1949年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)存(cun)正山(shan)門(men)及(ji)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)17座(即三(san)(san)清、方丈(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)(zhang)、 真人(ren)、肝胃(wei)、藥王、東岳、火(huo)(huo)神、三(san)(san)茅(mao)、天后(hou)、真官(guan)(guan)、文(wen)昌(chang)、機房(fang)(fang)、三(san)(san)官(guan)(guan)、雷尊、觀(guan)(guan)(guan)音(yin)諸(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)及(ji)斗姆(mu)閣(ge)、太陽宮(gong))。1952年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)有(you)(you)道士(shi)33人(ren)，家屬83人(ren)，香(xiang)工6人(ren)；有(you)(you)屋523.5間，內(nei)(nei)自用200間，余(yu)多(duo)出(chu)租。1956年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)統計，占地51.72畝，神像(xiang)519尊，同年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)將(jiang)廣場(chang)周(zhou)圍600余(yu)戶店攤(tan)(tan)居民遷出(chu)，斗姆(mu)閣(ge)改(gai)建(jian)為書畫(hua)店。1957年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)全觀(guan)(guan)(guan)收(shou)入(ru)：房(fang)(fang)地租454元(yuan)(yuan)，香(xiang)火(huo)(huo)94元(yuan)(yuan)，法事29元(yuan)(yuan)，其(qi)他343元(yuan)(yuan)。1958年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)11月道教學習會(hui)直接掌管(guan)三(san)(san)清、星(xing)(xing)宿(原屬觀(guan)(guan)(guan)音(yin)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1956年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)將(jiang)在(zai)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)花甲星(xing)(xing)宿塑像(xiang)遷入(ru)，故名)兩殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)及(ji)雷尊、 火(huo)(huo)神的(de)大(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)部(bu)分(fen)，余(yu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)除(chu)留少量道士(shi)自住外(wai)，都交給(gei)房(fang)(fang)管(guan)局管(guan)理，13道房(fang)(fang)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)此消失。1959年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)東岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)焚毀。該殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)的(de)五岳樓，構(gou)建(jian)工巧，四面(mian)(mian)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇(yu)，中峙一(yi)(yi)(yi)樓，“大(da)躍(yue)進”中全殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)拆去。1964年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)市政府又撥(bo)款整修(xiu)，三(san)(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)與正山(shan)門(men)油漆一(yi)(yi)(yi)新，廣場(chang)中遍植綠樹草茵。“文(wen)化大(da)革(ge)命(ming)”起，除(chu)三(san)(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)神像(xiang)幸獲(huo)保存(cun)(“玉(yu)清”神像(xiang)的(de)頭(tou)部(bu)被砍(kan))外(wai)，其(qi)余(yu)神像(xiang)、道經(jing)、科書被焚燒數(shu)晝夜，銅像(xiang)8尊亦被毀，三(san)(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)一(yi)(yi)(yi)度改(gai)為收(shou)租院(yuan)泥塑展覽(lan)會(hui)，兩廊各配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)在(zai) 60～70年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)代陸續改(gai)作(zuo)商店、倉庫、菜(cai)場(chang)。

其間失(shi)去(qu)的(de)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇分別為(wei)彌羅(luo)寶閣(ge)，1912年(nian)(nian)(nian)失(shi)火焚毀(hui)，原(yuan)地改(gai)建(jian)中山堂；灶君(jun)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1917年(nian)(nian)(nian)出借給(gei)同仁救火會，1930年(nian)(nian)(nian)被(bei)(bei)會擅(shan)自拆(chai)(chai)除改(gai)建(jian)，后為(wei)勞(lao)保用(yong)(yong)品(pin)商(shang)店；太陽宮(gong)，1914年(nian)(nian)(nian)為(wei)吳縣(xian)黃(huang)天源糕團店門(men)市部；東岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1922年(nian)(nian)(nian)出租給(gei)昆劇(ju)(ju)業余劇(ju)(ju)團，1959年(nian)(nian)(nian)東岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)失(shi)火燒毀(hui)，1961年(nian)(nian)(nian)該殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)山門(men)及殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)址(zhi)由影劇(ju)(ju)公(gong)司(si)使用(yong)(yong)；斗(dou)姆閣(ge)，解放(fang)前為(wei)攤販(fan)公(gong)會使用(yong)(yong)，抗(kang)戰勝(sheng)利后被(bei)(bei)典(dian)(dian)賣給(gei)居(ju)民，現(xian)為(wei)民居(ju)；祖師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1937年(nian)(nian)(nian)蘇州淪陷時(shi)毀(hui)，現(xian)為(wei)輕工(gong)門(men)市部；八仙殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)(nian)坍毀(hui)，現(xian)為(wei)菜場；三官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)(nian)借給(gei)春苑茶館，現(xian)為(wei)茶場；水府(fu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)(nian)造國貨(huo)公(gong)司(si)時(shi)，將(jiang)北局觀前菜場遷移至此，殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)被(bei)(bei)拆(chai)(chai)掉(diao)；關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1937年(nian)(nian)(nian)日機轟炸被(bei)(bei)震坍，現(xian)為(wei)花木盆景(jing)公(gong)司(si)；痘司(si)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，30年(nian)(nian)(nian)代被(bei)(bei)典(dian)(dian)押后成為(wei)民居(ju)。今仍屬(shu)道教使用(yong)(yong)的(de)除正山門(men)、三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)外，尚有火神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、星宿殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、雷尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，其余的(de)則后來又被(bei)(bei)有關單位占(zhan)用(yong)(yong)或拆(chai)(chai)除。

玄妙(miao)(miao)觀內(nei)文(wen)化積淀深厚，民間傳說動人，舊(jiu)有(you)十八(ba)景之說，分別(bie)為(wei)元趙孟頫所書(shu)玄妙(miao)(miao)觀重修山門(men)碑(bei)、麒麟(lin)照(zhao)墻、朝北(bei)玄帝銅殿(dian)、六(liu)角亭(ting)、釘(ding)釘(ding)石欄桿、一步三條橋、無(wu)字碑(bei)、海(hai)星壇、一人弄(nong)、楊芝畫、運木古(gu)井、妙(miao)(miao)一統元匾額、靠(kao)天(tian)吃飯圖碑(bei)，如今十八(ba)景中還(huan)保存九(jiu)處(chu)。玄妙(miao)(miao)觀文(wen)物中著(zhu)名的還(huan)有(you)歷代(dai)碑(bei)刻(ke)，有(you)老子像碑(bei)、永禁機匠叫歇(xie)碑(bei)等等計有(you)八(ba)十一塊。除部分收藏(zang)在文(wen)廟外，還(huan)余下不少成(cheng)為(wei)碑(bei)廊，現藏(zang)在輕工(gong)門(men)市部夾弄(nong)內(nei)，歷劫不滅，彌足(zu)珍貴。

玄(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)值得(de)一提(ti)的還有(you)(you)正(zheng)山(shan)門八字(zi)照墻，當年(nian)為此(ci)(ci)還掀(xian)起(qi)過一場(chang)軒然大波。照墻前原有(you)(you)一排平屋(wu)(wu)，有(you)(you)七、八家商鋪(pu)，1930年(nian)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)前街拓寬，影響這些商鋪(pu)，德記地(di)產(chan)公司出面向玄(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)方(fang)丈(zhang)顏品(pin)笙協商拆除照墻，租(zu)用兩側地(di)基，搭(da)屋(wu)(wu)經(jing)商，條件是訂約十(shi)五年(nian)，付給押金一萬(wan)元。此(ci)(ci)舉一出，引起(qi)地(di)方(fang)人士反對，形成“保(bao)古派(pai)”與(yu)“保(bao)商派(pai)”之爭，后經(jing)江蘇(su)省(sheng)建設廳批(pi)準(zhun)，正(zheng)山(shan)門兩端建起(qi)了與(yu)玄(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)極不協調的三層樓(lou)房，道觀(guan)(guan)(guan)古樸肅(su)穆的風貌從此(ci)(ci)不復再現。

玄妙觀(guan)三(san)清(qing)殿之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)后，原(yuan)有一(yi)(yi)(yi)座始建于明(ming)正(zheng)統(tong)三(san)年(1438)的(de)彌(mi)羅(luo)寶閣(ge)。閣(ge)高3層(ceng)，闊9間，飛檐翹角，高聳云天，十分壯觀(guan)。所供神像，上層(ceng)是萬皇帝主(zhu)，左右(you)配祀(si)28星宿；底層(ceng)是萬地帝主(zhu)，左右(you)配祀(si)60花甲星宿。露臺(tai)石(shi)刻(ke)(ke)尤稱珍貴，轉角處嵌有畫(hua)像石(shi)，一(yi)(yi)(yi)刻(ke)(ke)□爵(jue)祿來同(tong)像，一(yi)(yi)(yi)刻(ke)(ke)掛(gua)印封(feng)侯像，另一(yi)(yi)(yi)面(mian)刻(ke)(ke)有八蠻進寶圖。露臺(tai)扶欄亦(yi)有精美石(shi)雕，古(gu)氣磅礴(bo)，與山東武梁祠、郭巨墓漢畫(hua)石(shi)刻(ke)(ke)，神態逼肖，當為晉(jin)寧道院或(huo)唐開元宮(gong)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)舊(jiu)物。如此一(yi)(yi)(yi)座堪(kan)稱蘇州樓閣(ge)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)最的(de)古(gu)建筑(zhu)， 卻不(bu)幸毀于民國元年(1912)8月28日晚的(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)場至今原(yuan)因不(bu)明(ming)的(de)大火之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)中。

葉(xie)圣(sheng)陶在(zai)失(shi)火(huo)當(dang)日(ri)日(ri)記(ji)中記(ji)云(yun)：“入夜，紅光燭天，人聲喧沓(ta)，開門而(er)望之，在(zai)余(yu)家西北(bei)面，繼而(er)鑼聲四應(ying)矣。后知燒去(qu)者(zhe)(zhe)為(wei)(wei)觀(guan)(guan)里彌羅寶閣。此(ci)閣年代極古，工(gong)程至(zhi)鉅且(qie)精。偌(ruo)大建筑物(wu)付之一(yi)炬，殊可惜，且(qie)守者(zhe)(zhe)止一(yi)二(er)人，石柱堅墻何(he)致(zhi)起(qi)火(huo)？即著火(huo)亦(yi)何(he)致(zhi)全毀？一(yi)般迷信家恐又(you)將造出許多(duo)神(shen)話也(ye)。”翌(yi)日(ri)葉(xie)至(zhi)現場(chang)察看后于(yu)日(ri)記(ji)中寫道(dao)：“晨至(zhi)頡剛(gang)處，幾(ji)伊亦(yi)來，乃(nai)偕赴(fu)觀(guan)(guan)里觀(guan)(guan)火(huo)場(chang)劫場(chang)。可憐莊嚴宮殿(dian)只剩碎瓦殘灰(hui)，神(shen)鬼威力果(guo)何(he)在(zai)哉！亦(yi)可稍(shao)示迷信家矣。然觀(guan)(guan)里為(wei)(wei)吳中名勝，遠道(dao)來游(you)者(zhe)(zhe)至(zhi)多(duo)，故(gu)觀(guan)(guan)里商業(ye)亦(yi)為(wei)(wei)蘇地冠，從此(ci)或將冷(leng)落矣。入訪詢起(qi)火(huo)原由(you)，亦(yi)云(yun)不可得知，徒知先(xian)有火(huo)在(zai)第(di)二(er)層(ceng)，而(er)第(di)二(er)層(ceng)樓(lou)則常(chang)閉者(zhe)(zhe)也(ye)。”又(you)圣(sheng)昌熾《緣(yuan)督廬(lu)日(ri)記(ji)》壬子年七月十六(liu)日(ri)記(ji)云(yun)：“晚餐正陳，陡聞樓(lou)上驚呼(hu)聲，一(yi)舉首則霄半(ban)有光煜然，墻壁窗牖皆如(ru)倒景(jing)反射，再視(shi)則紅火(huo)燭天矣。亟登樓(lou)視(shi)之，白煙蓬蓬而(er)起(qi)，火(huo)星飛(fei)爆(bao)，如(ru)萬弩之齊發(fa)，寂(ji)無警笛耳輪，但聞膈(ge)膊聲。自夜七鐘半(ban)，焚至(zhi)八鐘半(ban)始熄。”偌(ruo)大一(yi)座(zuo)樓(lou)閣化為(wei)(wei)灰(hui)燼。是失(shi)火(huo)？還是縱火(huo)？至(zhi)今(jin)仍是謎。

中山堂即在彌羅寶閣原址(zhi)建造，現為(wei)影(ying)劇公司占用。

主要景點

玄妙觀

玄妙(miao)觀三清(qing)殿于1982年2月列(lie)為全國重點文物(wu)保護單位(wei)。

玄妙觀(guan)極盛時有(you)殿(dian)(dian)宇30余(yu)座(zuo)，是(shi)當時全國(guo)最大(da)的(de)道觀(guan)。現(xian)有(you)山門、主(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)（三(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)）、副 殿(dian)(dian)（彌羅(luo)寶(bao)閣）及21座(zuo)配殿(dian)(dian)。 山門雄(xiong)偉高聳，上懸康(kang)熙帝御筆賜額“圓妙觀(guan)”。南宋淳熙 六年（1179年）重建的(de)主(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)三(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)面(mian)闊(kuo)9間，進深6間，高約30米， 建筑面(mian)積1125平方米，重檐歇山，巍峨(e)壯麗(li)，是(shi)江南一(yi)(yi)帶現(xian)存(cun)(cun)最 大(da)的(de)宋代(dai)木構建筑。殿(dian)(dian)中須彌座(zuo)上供高17米泥塑貼金(jin)的(de)3尊(zun)(zun)神像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)， 正中是(shi)元始(shi)天(tian)尊(zun)(zun)，兩旁是(shi)靈寶(bao)天(tian)尊(zun)(zun)和(he)道德天(tian)尊(zun)(zun)，俗稱(cheng)(cheng)三(san)清(qing)(qing)。神像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang) 高大(da)莊嚴，是(shi)宋代(dai)道教塑像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)中的(de)上品(pin)。三(san)清(qing)(qing)中道德天(tian)尊(zun)(zun)又稱(cheng)(cheng)太(tai)上 老(lao)(lao)君，傳(chuan)為(wei)(wei)老(lao)(lao)子李耳。其像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)座(zuo)有(you)老(lao)(lao)君像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)石刻(ke)(ke)，為(wei)(wei)唐(tang)吳道子繪像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)，唐(tang)玄宗題(ti)贊(zan)，顏(yan)真(zhen)卿書，由宋代(dai)刻(ke)(ke)石高手張允迪(di)摹刻(ke)(ke)，可(ke)稱(cheng)(cheng)“四 絕”碑，是(shi)目前國(guo)內僅存(cun)(cun)的(de)兩塊(kuai)老(lao)(lao)子像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)碑之一(yi)(yi)。 三(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)西(xi)山墻有(you)60根大(da)青石六面(mian)柱(zhu)，每面(mian)刻(ke)(ke)有(you)一(yi)(yi)天(tian)尊(zun)(zun)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)，共 刻(ke)(ke)360天(tian)尊(zun)(zun)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)，合周年數。 玄妙觀(guan)前一(yi)(yi)條(tiao)街名觀(guan)前街，為(wei)(wei)蘇州的(de)主(zhu)要商業街之一(yi)(yi)。

三清殿

三清殿(dian)(dian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)玄(xuan)妙觀正殿(dian)(dian)，南(nan)(nan)宋淳熙六(liu)(liu)年(1179)重(zhong)建(jian)。重(zhong)檐歇山(shan)造(zao)，面(mian)(mian)(mian)闊(kuo)9間(jian)(jian)，廣45.64米，進深6間(jian)(jian)，深25.25米，通(tong)高約27米，面(mian)(mian)(mian)闊(kuo)與(yu)進深之(zhi)(zhi)比(bi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)9：5。殿(dian)(dian)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)排列，縱橫成行，內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)外一致，共(gong)有(you)(you)7列，每列10柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)， 無“減柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)”或(huo)“移柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)”，俗稱(cheng)“滿堂(tang)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)”。四(si)周檐柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)八(ba)角(jiao)石(shi)(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)，共(gong)30根(gen)；殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)諸柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)除內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)槽(cao)(cao)(cao)中央三間(jian)(jian)4根(gen)后(hou)金柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)抹角(jiao)石(shi)(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)外，均(jun)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)圓木(mu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)，共(gong) 36根(gen)。柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)礎均(jun)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)連磉有(you)(you)唇(chun)覆盆式，檐柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)礎上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)再施(shi)(shi)仿木(mu)質八(ba)角(jiao)形石(shi)(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)腳，殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)木(mu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)則于(yu)(yu)礎上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)加(jia)石(shi)(shi)鼓(gu)。下(xia)(xia)(xia)(xia)檐斗(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)(gong)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)四(si)鋪(pu)單昂(ang)，昂(ang)的(de)(de)(de)下(xia)(xia)(xia)(xia)緣(yuan)向上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)微微反曲。柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)鋪(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)昂(ang)嘴實為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)檐華拱(gong)(gong)(gong)的(de)(de)(de)延(yan)長，其上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)承(cheng)月(yue)梁(liang)(liang)。梁(liang)(liang)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)伸出作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)耍頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)，斫作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)宋式梢(shao)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)。補間(jian)(jian)鋪(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)皆用(yong)真昂(ang)，后(hou)尾(wei)挑(tiao)起，以(yi)承(cheng)托下(xia)(xia)(xia)(xia)平西方(fang)槫下(xia)(xia)(xia)(xia)的(de)(de)(de)令拱(gong)(gong)(gong)，即《營造(zao)法(fa)(fa)式》上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)的(de)(de)(de)“飛昂(ang)”制度(du)。上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)檐柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)與(yu)補間(jian)(jian)鋪(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)均(jun)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)重(zhong)昂(ang)，結(jie)(jie)構(gou)(gou)完全一致，但僅(jin)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)華拱(gong)(gong)(gong)前(qian)端做出假昂(ang)，其后(hou)并無昂(ang)挑(tiao)起的(de)(de)(de)杠桿作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)用(yong)。至于(yu)(yu)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)槽(cao)(cao)(cao)斗(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)(gong)，則于(yu)(yu)重(zhong)抄之(zhi)(zhi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)，前(qian)后(hou)兩面(mian)(mian)(mian)用(yong)“上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)”成為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)“六(liu)(liu)鋪(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)重(zhong)抄上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)斗(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)(gong)”結(jie)(jie)構(gou)(gou)，為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)國(guo)(guo)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)孤(gu)例。在櫨斗(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)兩側，結(jie)(jie)構(gou)(gou)完全對稱(cheng)，較(jiao)《營造(zao)法(fa)(fa)式》所載上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)做法(fa)(fa)更為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)簡化。又內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)槽(cao)(cao)(cao)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)轉角(jiao)鋪(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)，在后(hou)金柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)都用(yong)插拱(gong)(gong)(gong)，即以(yi)丁頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)拱(gong)(gong)(gong)插于(yu)(yu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)，無櫨斗(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)，亦此殿(dian)(dian)斗(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)(gong)重(zhong)要(yao)特征，為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)國(guo)(guo)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)現(xian)存最(zui)古實例。內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)槽(cao)(cao)(cao)斗(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)(gong)之(zhi)(zhi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)，更施(shi)(shi)平棋，殿(dian)(dian)的(de)(de)(de)梁(liang)(liang)架結(jie)(jie)構(gou)(gou)，外槽(cao)(cao)(cao)梁(liang)(liang)架先施(shi)(shi)順木(mu)伏 串(chuan)，次于(yu)(yu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)鋪(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)架月(yue)梁(liang)(liang)，復用(yong)襻間(jian)(jian)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。月(yue)梁(liang)(liang)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)又施(shi)(shi)櫨斗(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)， 置(zhi)十(shi)字交叉(cha)令拱(gong)(gong)(gong)，承(cheng)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)層月(yue)梁(liang)(liang)與(yu)槫下(xia)(xia)(xia)(xia)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)枋。結(jie)(jie)構(gou)(gou)與(yu)《營造(zao)法(fa)(fa)式》亦能(neng)符合(he)。內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)額(e)除中央四(si)縫外，都于(yu)(yu)其下(xia)(xia)(xia)(xia)另加(jia)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)枋，二(er)者之(zhi)(zhi)間(jian)(jian)用(yong)襻間(jian)(jian)鋪(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。殿(dian)(dian)的(de)(de)(de)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)槽(cao)(cao)(cao)中央5間(jian)(jian)后(hou)金柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)間(jian)(jian)，筑磚(zhuan)壁達內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)額(e)下(xia)(xia)(xia)(xia)皮(pi)，壁前(qian)有(you)(you)磚(zhuan)砌須彌座， 面(mian)(mian)(mian)闊(kuo)3間(jian)(jian)，高1.75米，式樣略如《營造(zao)法(fa)(fa)式》而繁密(mi)過之(zhi)(zhi)。 上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)奉三清像，趺坐于(yu)(yu)方(fang)座上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)，像高約6米，高于(yu)(yu)地面(mian)(mian)(mian)約10.5米，神態凝重(zhong)， 衣褶生動，是(shi)古代道(dao)教造(zao)像中的(de)(de)(de)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)品(pin)。殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)壁間(jian)(jian)嵌有(you)(you)碑(bei)石(shi)(shi)多方(fang)， 以(yi)南(nan)(nan)宋寶慶(qing)元年(1225)所刻(ke)“太上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)老君(jun)像”最(zui)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)珍貴，像為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)唐(tang)代吳道(dao)子所繪，形貌(mao)蒼褶流暢，上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)方(fang)有(you)(you)顏真卿所書唐(tang)玄(xuan)宗李隆基的(de)(de)(de)“贊”四(si)言十(shi)六(liu)(liu)句(ju)，刻(ke)工為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)張(zhang)允迪。三清殿(dian)(dian)臺基面(mian)(mian)(mian)闊(kuo)49.6米，進深29.5米，現(xian)高出周圍地面(mian)(mian)(mian)約1 米。前(qian)施(shi)(shi)月(yue)臺，面(mian)(mian)(mian)闊(kuo)27.2米，進深16.3米，中央立鐵(tie)鼎。正面(mian)(mian)(mian)與(yu)左、右(you)各(ge)踏(ta)跺，周以(yi)青石(shi)(shi)勾欄。臺基僅(jin)南(nan)(nan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)東、西梢(shao)間(jian)(jian)及盡間(jian)(jian)有(you)(you)石(shi)(shi)欄，與(yu)月(yue)臺石(shi)(shi)欄貫通(tong)，華版雕刻(ke)極細，內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)容有(you)(you)人物、走獸、飛禽、水族、山(shan)水、云樹、亭閣等，頗為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)古樸生動，為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)宋或(huo)宋以(yi)前(qian)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)品(pin)。三清殿(dian)(dian)是(shi)江(jiang)蘇(su)最(zui)古的(de)(de)(de)木(mu)結(jie)(jie)構(gou)(gou)建(jian)筑，也是(shi)國(guo)(guo)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)現(xian)存體量最(zui)大的(de)(de)(de)宋代大殿(dian)(dian)。

正山門

正(zheng)山門位于三清(qing)殿南約80米處，清(qing)乾隆四(si)十(shi)年(1775)重建。重檐歇山造，面闊5間(jian)(jian)，廣20米，進深12米，于當心(xin)間(jian)(jian)脊柱間(jian)(jian)設斷砌門。

如意門

如意門(西腳門)內(nei)的雷尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)初名(ming)雷神(shen)蓼，亦為(wei)坐(zuo)北(bei)朝(chao)南(nan)的重檐(yan)歇山式建(jian)筑，明天順二年(1458)建(jian)，清(qing)康熙四(si)年(1665)重修，面闊3間，廣(guang)16米，進深14米，前加卷棚頂軒廊(lang)3間，與下檐(yan)形成勾連搭屋頂，通進深21米，梁架結構及(ji)柱礎制均有(you)明代(dai)特(te)征，殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)南(nan)尚存山門3間。此外，觀(guan)內(nei)現存殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)閣，東有(you)財神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、天醫藥(yao)王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火(huo)神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、斗姆閣等(deng)(deng)，西有(you)觀(guan)音殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)等(deng)(deng)，北(bei)有(you)蓑衣真(zhen)人殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、方丈殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)等(deng)(deng)，多數(shu)為(wei)晚清(qing)重建(jian)。

保存在觀內碑(bei)刻有(you)數(shu)十種，上起宋代，下迄清末。

通神(shen)先生何蓑衣(yi)事實碑 在(zai)蓑衣(yi)真人(ren)殿。碑高1.55米(mi)(mi)、寬1.08米(mi)(mi)，胡(hu)袤(mao)撰，宋(song)孝(xiao)宗脊題“通神(shen)庵”三字，南宋(song)慶(qing)元三年(1197)刻石。

詔建三(san)清大殿上梁文(wen)碑(bei) 在(zai)(zai)祖(zu)師殿遺(yi)址碑(bei)廊。碑(bei)高1.62米、寬0.93米，南宋(song)淳熙八年(1181)龔頤正撰，嘉定十一年(1218)立石，張允迪刻(ke)，原在(zai)(zai)三(san)清殿。

老君(jun)像(xiang)碑 在(zai)頤正殿。碑高1.8米(mi)、寬0.91米(mi)，吳道子(zi)畫，唐玄宗李隆基贊，顏(yan)真卿書(shu)，馮大同(tong)跋，張允迪刻(ke)，南宋寶慶元年(1225)立(li)石(shi)。

朝旨蠲免天慶(qing)觀道正司(si)科敷度牒尚書(shu)省札部符使帖(tie)碑 在(zai)三清殿。高1.97米、寬1.08米，頂端(duan)抹角，南宋端(duan)平(ping)元(yuan)年(1234)立。

清(qing)理道教(jiao)碑(bei) 在三清(qing)殿外東側。高6.5米(mi)、寬2.7米(mi)，方(fang)孝孺撰并書，明洪武中(zhong)年(1371)立，后方(fang)氏被誅，碑(bei)文(wen)被劃去，故(gu)俗稱(cheng)無字(zi)碑(bei)。

重修三清(qing)殿(dian)記碑 在火神殿(dian)南小弄內。高1.66米、寬0.9米，王進撰(zhuan)，衛靖書，張徽篆額，明宣德(de)四年(1429)呂志(zhi)清(qing)立石，左上角殘(can)缺，碑文已漫漶。

重修(xiu)玄妙觀五(wu)岳樓記碑 現存祖師遺址碑廊。高1.15米、寬0.66米，李杰(jie)撰(zhuan)，陳昌言(yan)刻，明弘(hong)治十六年(1503)立，原置東岳殿(dian)。

玄妙觀三清殿(dian)至今(jin)已有(you)八(ba)百多年歷(li)史，九開間的(de)宏殿(dian)巍峨軒(xuan)昂(ang)，原來說是(shi)在江南絕無僅有(you)，后來文物專家(jia)羅哲文來蘇考察(cha)，說是(shi)全國(guo)也沒有(you)這(zhe)樣巨大的(de)南宋建(jian)筑(zhu)( 其氣勢只有(you)北(bei)京故宮的(de)太和殿(dian)和曲阜孔(kong)廟大成殿(dian)可與之相比(bi)、但這(zhe)些建(jian)筑(zhu)的(de)年代都(dou)遠遠晚(wan)于南宋)， 所以三清殿(dian)稱為國(guo)寶當之無愧！

集市特色

玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)為全國(guo)著(zhu)名道觀(guan)，又是(shi)歷(li)史悠久的(de)傳(chuan)統集市。馮夢龍《警世通言》無礙(ai)居士序(xu)中(zhong)說：“吾頃從(cong)玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)聽(ting)說《三國(guo)志》來。”說明玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)在明天啟(qi)年間(jian)已有露天書場(chang)。至清代(dai)設攤者日(ri)多，遂演變成為古城中(zhong)心一(yi)處熱鬧的(de)集市，有小吃、日(ri)用雜品、文具玩(wan)具、對聯字畫、花鳥魚蟲的(de)攤店以及醫卜星相、江湖雜耍(shua)等(deng)等(deng)，五花八門，不一(yi)而足。茲就昔日(ri)報(bao)刊(kan)所載(zai)30年代(dai)前后玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)集市狀況略舉一(yi)二，以見其概貌。

小吃特色

玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)的(de)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)吃，名目(mu)繁(fan)多，如小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)米子糖、灰湯(tang)粽、氽魷魚(yu)、熏(xun)魚(yu)、涼(liang)粉、藕(ou)(ou)粉、千張(zhang)百(bai)(bai)頁、酒(jiu)釀圓(yuan)子、豆(dou)(dou)腐花、糖粥、梅(mei)花糕、海棠糕、焐酥豆(dou)(dou)、五香茶(cha)葉(xie)蛋、雞鴨血湯(tang)，其余如面(mian)、小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)籠(long)饅頭、鍋貼、燒(shao)賣(mai)、餛(hun)飩、湯(tang)團(tuan)等等，應有盡有。著(zhu)名的(de)攤店(dian)(dian)，有專(zhuan)售梨膏糖的(de)文魁齋、觀(guan)(guan)振興面(mian)店(dian)(dian)、王源(yuan)興酒(jiu)釀豆(dou)(dou)漿(jiang)店(dian)(dian)、小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)有天(tian)藕(ou)(ou)粉店(dian)(dian)、五芳(fang)齋、六芳(fang)齋、七芳(fang)齋等等，還有百(bai)(bai)年以上歷史的(de)三萬思、品芳(fang)兩(liang)家茶(cha)館。可(ke)以說玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)是蘇州(zhou)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)吃最為集中的(de)地方。

年畫特色

三清殿內(nei)是傳統的(de)年畫(hua)市場，出售桃花塢出版的(de)各種(zhong)畫(hua)張，如神(shen)軸、灶神(shen)、門神(shen)、百壽圖(tu)、送子圖(tu)、鳳穿牡丹、魚跳龍(long)門、歲寒三友(you)、梅開五福(fu)、岳飛抗金、關羽夜讀春秋、二(er)十四孝等等，民(min)國以后(hou)上海的(de)彩印美女圖(tu)、風景畫(hua)進入觀內(nei)，受到大眾歡迎。另有對聯(lian)、立軸，并(bing)可請(qing)名(ming)家當場揮毫(hao)，其中(zhong)最著名(ming)者汪(wang)煥文(度)，自號(hao)“鄧尉山(shan)農”，在三清殿書寫(xie)對聯(lian)數十年之久。

觀內空(kong)地(di)經常演出各(ge)種江湖雜耍(shua)，有變戲(xi)法(fa)、木偶(ou)戲(xi)、耍(shua)猴戲(xi)、西洋鏡、唱小熱昏(hun)、賣拳頭、說露(lu)天書等等。鑼鼓響處，圍(wei)滿人(ren)群(qun)，熙熙攘(rang)攘(rang)，熱鬧非凡。

醫卜星相更

醫卜(bu)星相(xiang)(xiang)更是(shi)玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)大特(te)色，有(you)(you)祖(zu)傳秘方、專治(zhi)氣(qi)喘、癆疾、筋骨(gu)酸疼的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)江(jiang)湖郎中，有(you)(you)撥牙的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)牙醫，有(you)(you)主(zhu)(zhu)治(zhi)跌打(da)損(sun)傷的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)傷科等(deng)等(deng)。遠(yuan)近聞名(ming)(ming)(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)葛(ge)云彬、謝明(ming)德都曾(ceng)在(zai)此(ci)掛牌設(she)攤(tan)(tan)。算命(ming)(ming)(ming)、相(xiang)(xiang)面(mian)、測字(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)集(ji)中在(zai)東(dong)腳門(men)至牛角浜一(yi)(yi)(yi)路，有(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)當街設(she)一(yi)(yi)(yi)桌一(yi)(yi)(yi)椅，有(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)設(she)館，總稱“巾(jin)行”，七十二巾(jin)可謂樣樣齊全。有(you)(you)量手(shou)曰(yue)(yue)“量巾(jin)”，鳥銜設(she)牌曰(yue)(yue)“鳥巾(jin)”，拉胡琴(qin)曰(yue)(yue)“夾絲巾(jin)”，敲搭板小(xiao)(xiao)鑼曰(yue)(yue)“響巾(jin)”，相(xiang)(xiang)面(mian)曰(yue)(yue)“斬盤(pan)搶巾(jin)”，批八字(zi)(zi)曰(yue)(yue)“八黑”，搖課(ke)曰(yue)(yue)“圓(yuan)頭(tou)”，拆(chai)字(zi)(zi)曰(yue)(yue)“小(xiao)(xiao)黑”，瞎子(zi)(zi)摸(mo)牌曰(yue)(yue)“觀(guan)梅”。相(xiang)(xiang)面(mian)有(you)(you)手(shou)相(xiang)(xiang)、摸(mo)骨(gu)相(xiang)(xiang)等(deng)幾(ji)種，以(yi)(yi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)鑒明(ming)(真名(ming)(ming)(ming)張子(zi)(zi)芳)、朱少卿最為(wei)(wei)(wei)有(you)(you)名(ming)(ming)(ming)。相(xiang)(xiang)面(mian)兼算命(ming)(ming)(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)四(si)明(ming)山人、王一(yi)(yi)(yi)舟等(deng)。算命(ming)(ming)(ming)兼堪輿(風(feng)水、 地理(li)、流(liu)年(nian)(nian)、合婚(hun))的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)，以(yi)(yi)楊(yang)鳳巢(chao)、蔣通天、凌云山、楊(yang)守成、 鄒慕鴻等(deng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)主(zhu)(zhu)。拆(chai)字(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)談虎臣(chen)、張天良等(deng)。起課(ke)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)文王課(ke)、六壬課(ke)，以(yi)(yi)明(ming)如鏡為(wei)(wei)(wei)有(you)(you)名(ming)(ming)(ming)。還有(you)(you)鴻運來(真名(ming)(ming)(ming)泊良)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)烏龜測字(zi)(zi)，他(ta)把事先用(yong)膠水寫好的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)字(zi)(zi)條(tiao)，放在(zai)置有(you)(you)烏賊骨(gu)粉的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)烏龜殼內，搖動幾(ji)下(xia)便顯出(chu)字(zi)(zi)跡(ji)，以(yi)(yi)此(ci)吸(xi)引(yin)好奇(qi)者。他(ta)們(men)或取號“賽諸葛(ge)”、“小(xiao)(xiao)神仙”，或自(zi)稱“能(neng)知(zhi)過(guo)去未(wei)來，善斷(duan)吉兇禍福”，舉凡男女婚(hun)配、家(jia)庭糾紛、生(sheng)(sheng)老病死、官(guan)運財氣(qi)均是(shi)他(ta)們(men)測算的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)范圍。俗話(hua)說(shuo)(shuo)“江(jiang)湖一(yi)(yi)(yi)點訣，莫對妻(qi)子(zi)(zi)說(shuo)(shuo)，若對妻(qi)子(zi)(zi)說(shuo)(shuo)，飯都沒得吃(chi)！”然而，明(ming)明(ming)是(shi)迷信騙局，卻有(you)(you)無數人找到他(ta)們(men)尋(xun)求慰藉(jie)，直到解放后他(ta)們(men)才由政府安排轉業(ye)。以(yi)(yi)上(shang)所述說(shuo)(shuo)明(ming)，由于玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)歷(li)史(shi)和地理(li)條(tiao)件，使它成為(wei)(wei)(wei)與北(bei)京(jing)(jing)天橋、南(nan)京(jing)(jing)夫子(zi)(zi)廟(miao)、上(shang)海老城隍(huang)廟(miao)齊名(ming)(ming)(ming)而又具(ju)有(you)(you)蘇(su)(su)州(zhou)地方特(te)色的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)熱鬧場所。蘇(su)(su)州(zhou)人常(chang)說(shuo)(shuo)“白(bai)相(xiang)(xiang)玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)”，外地人到蘇(su)(su)州(zhou)也必(bi)至玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)游，這已經(jing)成為(wei)(wei)(wei)人們(men)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)共(gong)識。隨(sui)著(zhu)時代的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)發(fa)(fa)展，玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)也在(zai)不斷(duan)發(fa)(fa)生(sheng)(sheng)變化，但它既是(shi)古跡(ji)名(ming)(ming)(ming)勝，又為(wei)(wei)(wei)傳統集(ji)市(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)這一(yi)(yi)(yi)基本性質和特(te)點，始終未(wei)變，1956年(nian)(nian)，對玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)攤(tan)(tan)販(fan)進行整(zheng)(zheng)理(li)，保持了小(xiao)(xiao)吃(chi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)主(zhu)(zhu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)傳統特(te)色。“文化大革命(ming)(ming)(ming)”期間，取消玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)集(ji)市(shi)。1979年(nian)(nian)12月，江(jiang)蘇(su)(su)省12市(shi)、縣(xian)糖(tang)果評展會在(zai)玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)舉辦，隨(sui)后小(xiao)(xiao)吃(chi)攤(tan)(tan)、服裝攤(tan)(tan)、雜貨(huo)攤(tan)(tan)及(ji)縫紉攤(tan)(tan)擁(yong)塞觀(guan)內，成為(wei)(wei)(wei)蘇(su)(su)州(zhou)恢復(fu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)集(ji)市(shi)。經(jing)多(duo)年(nian)(nian)整(zheng)(zheng)理(li)和規(gui)劃(hua)，建起統一(yi)(yi)(yi)規(gui)格的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)售(shou)貨(huo)亭，西(xi)腳門(men)甬道南(nan)段(duan)(duan)設(she)20多(duo)個(ge)傳統小(xiao)(xiao)吃(chi)亭，北(bei)段(duan)(duan)有(you)(you)10多(duo)個(ge)縫紉攤(tan)(tan)；東(dong)腳門(men)南(nan)段(duan)(duan)為(wei)(wei)(wei)服裝售(shou)貨(huo)亭，北(bei)段(duan)(duan)為(wei)(wei)(wei)修補皮(pi)匠攤(tan)(tan)點；三清殿(dian)后興起漁網漁具(ju)市(shi)場。1985年(nian)(nian)，玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)內有(you)(you)157個(ge)攤(tan)(tan)位。

實用信息

門票：

10元(yuan)（寺(si)觀覽勝(sheng)）；15元(yuan)（姑蘇道(dao)教仙(xian)樂(le)）；10元(yuan)（道(dao)教飛鈸(ba)表演）。

公交：

乘坐1、102、146、178、202、502到觀前(qian)街（東、西(xi)或樂橋）后，步行(xing)至街中段的玄妙(miao)觀內。

交通信息

可乘游1東線(xian)到(dao)玄妙觀站下車，或乘2線(xian) 、1路、101路、38路等(deng)到(dao)觀前(qian)街站下車。