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簡介

玄妙觀(guan)是(shi)位于中(zhong)國東(dong)南部著名(ming)旅游城市蘇州(zhou)的著名(ming)道觀(guan)，創建于公(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)276年(nian)，最初名(ming)叫“真(zhen)慶道院”，后來曾(ceng)改稱(cheng)為(wei)(wei)“開元(yuan)(yuan)宮”、“天慶觀(guan)”。公(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)1295年(nian)元(yuan)(yuan)朝皇帝下令改為(wei)(wei)玄妙觀(guan)。玄妙觀(guan)至今(jin)已有1700多年(nian)的歷史(shi)，所(suo)以被(bei)稱(cheng)為(wei)(wei)“江(jiang)南第一(yi)古觀(guan)”。

玄妙(miao)觀坐(zuo)落在(zai)(zai)蘇州(zhou)古城(cheng)中(zhong)心(xin)，其主殿(dian)三清殿(dian)建成(cheng)于(yu)南宋(song)(song)年間(jian)，是蘇州(zhou)僅(jin)存的(de)一座南宋(song)(song)木構殿(dian)宇(yu)式建筑，歷史(shi)悠久、規模宏偉，在(zai)(zai)中(zhong)國建筑史(shi)上具(ju)有(you)重(zhong)要(yao)的(de)歷史(shi)價(jia)值(zhi)，1982年被(bei)列為全國重(zhong)點文物保護(hu)單位。

現玄妙觀進(jin)行了修復(fu)整治，有(you)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)堂(tang)七(qi)座，中路(lu)有(you)正山門(men)、三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，東路(lu)有(you)文(wen)昌(chang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、斗姆閣、壽星(xing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，西路(lu)有(you)雷尊(zun)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、財(cai)神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)。觀內有(you)很多珍貴的文(wen)物(wu)遺跡(ji)，道教文(wen)化內涵(han)深厚,是中國少有(you)的完整道觀建筑群，其中三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)現仍保留(liu)著(zhu)宋代建筑的風貌與(yu)特點。

玄妙(miao)觀歷史上曾是蘇州宗教文(wen)化(hua)中心，現是蘇州地區道教活動的(de)主要場(chang)所。由于優越的(de)地理位置(zhi)，眾多的(de)文(wen)物古跡以及(ji)豐富的(de)道教文(wen)化(hua)內涵，玄妙(miao)觀已(yi)成(cheng)為蘇州市著名的(de)旅(lv)游景點之一(yi)。

歷史沿革

蘇州香火最(zui)盛的地方并非(fei)佛教寺廟，而是(shi)道教的玄妙(miao)觀。

玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)始(shi)建于西晉，已有1700余年的歷史(shi)。觀(guan)內建于南宋(song)的三(san)清殿(dian)是江南最大(da)的木構(gou)古建筑(zhu)。殿(dian)內供奉的高達17米(mi)的三(san)清（上清、玉清、太(tai)清）塑(su)像(xiang)，堪稱宋(song)代(dai)雕塑(su)的上佳之作。玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)中(zhong)現存有唐(tang)吳道子畫老君像(xiang)、玄(xuan)宗(zong)贊、顏真(zhen)卿書法等碑刻，彌足(zu)珍貴．

除(chu)三清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和(he)(he)正(zheng)山門外，玄妙(miao)觀(guan)還有歷代建成(cheng)的副殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和(he)(he)二十(shi)四(si)座配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，從東(dong)(dong)腳門依次為(wei)：神(shen)(shen)州殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan))、太陽(yang)宮(清(qing)(qing))、天(tian)醫藥王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)、真(zhen)(zhen)官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan))、天(tian)后(hou)(hou)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、文(wen)昌殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、祖師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan))、斗姆(mu)閣(ge)(清(qing)(qing) )、火神(shen)(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、三茅殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)、機房殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(明)、關帝(di)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan))、東(dong)(dong)岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)、痘(dou)司殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)等(deng)十(shi)四(si)處，西腳門配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)依次為(wei)：雷(lei)尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan))、壽星(xing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)、水府殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))等(deng)七處。三清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)后(hou)(hou)為(wei)彌羅寶閣(ge)，再(zai)后(hou)(hou)面是蓑衣真(zhen)(zhen)人(ren)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋)、肝胃殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing)(qing))、薩(sa)祖方丈殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。各(ge)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)所(suo)供神(shen)(shen)像(xiang)大(da)都出自(zi)神(shen)(shen)話(hua)傳說，如太陽(yang)神(shen)(shen)、雷(lei)神(shen)(shen)、火神(shen)(shen)、關帝(di)、文(wen)曲星(xing)、灶神(shen)(shen)、土地、八仙、壽星(xing)、觀(guan)音等(deng)，體(ti)現了蘇(su)州地方文(wen)化特色和(he)(he)民間信仰的色彩，曾(ceng)是城鄉老百姓精(jing)神(shen)(shen)寄托(tuo)和(he)(he)休閑娛樂的去所(suo)。從康熙(xi)十(shi)三年(公元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)674年)玄妙(miao)觀(guan)建筑(zhu)群圖上可以(yi)看(kan)出東(dong)(dong)至洙泗巷，西臨大(da)成(cheng)坊(fang)，北至舊學前(qian)河(he)，南(nan)面有黃色照墻橫亙正(zheng)山門兩側，整個建筑(zhu)群十(shi)分壯觀(guan)。彈(dan)丸之地集(ji)中了宋元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)明清(qing)(qing)歷代殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇，真(zhen)(zhen)可謂是一座古典(dian)建筑(zhu)的博(bo)物(wu)館(guan)。

據道光《元(yuan)妙觀志(zhi)》圖載，清(qing)(qing)代玄(xuan)妙觀盛時占地5.5萬平(ping)方米(mi)，共有30多座殿(dian)閣。中(zhong)軸線上自南而北依(yi)次(ci)為正(zheng)山(shan)門、三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)、彌羅寶閣，其他(ta)殿(dian)閣分(fen)布在25處自成(cheng)院(yuan)落(luo)(luo)的“子院(yuan)”內(nei)，如眾星拱(gong)月般從東(dong)、西、北三(san)(san)面圍(wei)繞著中(zhong)軸線上的主(zhu)要殿(dian)閣，形成(cheng)一片巍峨壯麗的建(jian)筑群。但自咸豐、同治之際(ji)遭受戰火(huo)后，即(ji)漸趨衰落(luo)(luo)，未能(neng)恢(hui)復舊觀，宏偉的彌羅寶閣也(ye)于(yu)民國元(yuan)年(1912)8月28日失火(huo)焚(fen)毀。1956年，整修(xiu)三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)、正(zheng)山(shan)門及(ji)(ji)東(dong)、西諸殿(dian)門墻，清(qing)(qing)理廣庭。同年，玄(xuan)妙觀三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)被(bei)列(lie)為省文(wen)物保護單位。1966年后遭受損壞，1981年再修(xiu)三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)及(ji)(ji)正(zheng)山(shan)門。1982年，玄(xuan)妙觀三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)被(bei)列(lie)為全國重點文(wen)物保護單位。

蘇(su)州(zhou)市政府又連(lian)續撥巨(ju)款重修玄妙(miao)觀(guan)正山門和(he)三清殿(dian)，殿(dian)內神像重塑金(jin)身，已于1999年元(yuan)月(yue)開光(guang)慶典。

玄妙觀(guan)(guan)多(duo)數(shu)殿(dian)(dian)宇各有(you)山(shan)(shan)門(men)(men)、照墻，觀(guan)(guan)內(nei)(nei)廣(guang)場(chang)商販與(yu)百戲雜陳。觀(guan)(guan)內(nei)(nei)方(fang)(fang)丈(zhang)殿(dian)(dian)為(wei)穹窿山(shan)(shan)上(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)下院(yuan)，直(zhi)至(zhi)民(min)國(guo)(guo)(guo)初，該殿(dian)(dian)振法堂內(nei)(nei)高懸戒(jie)規(gui)，內(nei)(nei)容主要有(you)不準(zhun)娶家(jia)室(shi)、不準(zhun)目無師(shi)長(chang)等(deng)。違(wei)反戒(jie)規(gui)者，輕則重(zhong)責、重(zhong)則開(kai)除(chu)(俗(su)稱(cheng)“貼革條”)。方(fang)(fang)丈(zhang)為(wei)一(yi)觀(guan)(guan)之主。民(min)國(guo)(guo)(guo)元年(nian)(nian)(nian)8月28日(ri)，大(da)廈三(san)(san)層、飛甍隆棟的彌羅寶閣失(shi)(shi)火焚毀，內(nei)(nei)僅(jin)金身神(shen)(shen)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)就有(you)380余(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)尊(zun)(zun)，閶門(men)(men)外十房(fang)(fang)莊(zhuang)淘沙戶曾擬出資1萬元承包清(qing)(qing)(qing)除(chu)火場(chang)垃(la)圾。方(fang)(fang)丈(zhang)倪仰云因失(shi)(shi)火被(bei)提出公訴并辭(ci)職，自此(ci)(ci)方(fang)(fang)丈(zhang)威信大(da)降，戒(jie)規(gui)松弛。方(fang)(fang)丈(zhang)管2房(fang)(fang)、6殿(dian)(dian)。至(zhi)北伐時(shi)，方(fang)(fang)丈(zhang)殿(dian)(dian)還有(you)五六處山(shan)(shan)房(fang)(fang)，近(jin)百間(jian)屋。各房(fang)(fang)輪流(liu)執管殿(dian)(dian)事，有(you)帳房(fang)(fang)、文書及(ji)香(xiang)工(gong)10余(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)人(ren)(ren)，廚師(shi)2人(ren)(ren)。其(qi)余(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)12房(fang)(fang)分(fen)掌一(yi)至(zhi)二、三(san)(san)座(zuo)殿(dian)(dian)，實(shi)各為(wei)一(yi)獨立(li)道(dao)(dao)院(yuan)。22年(nian)(nian)(nian)太陽(yang)宮住持(chi)許(xu)鶴梅曾去上(shang)海合伙開(kai)設(she)玄妙觀(guan)(guan)分(fen)院(yuan)，一(yi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)后因生(sheng)意不好而(er)收(shou)歇。20年(nian)(nian)(nian)代(dai)至(zhi)抗(kang)日(ri)戰爭(zheng)中(zhong)，祖師(shi)、灶君(jun)、八仙、壽星(xing)、水府(fu)、關(guan)帝諸殿(dian)(dian)相繼圮廢、改建或被(bei)日(ri)機轟炸震坍。三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)擺滿(man)字(zi)畫攤，屋面被(bei)敵偽人(ren)(ren)員捉鴿子踐(jian)踏得嚴重(zhong)漏雨。機房(fang)(fang)殿(dian)(dian)曾開(kai)設(she)賭場(chang)，長(chang)期出租和被(bei)典賣的有(you)神(shen)(shen)州殿(dian)(dian)和痘司殿(dian)(dian)。民(min)國(guo)(guo)(guo)6、32、33和35年(nian)(nian)(nian)曾先(xian)后修葺東(dong)岳(yue)、真(zhen)(zhen)官(guan)(guan)、雷(lei)尊(zun)(zun)和觀(guan)(guan)音(yin)殿(dian)(dian)，但其(qi)余(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)諸殿(dian)(dian)日(ri)趨破敗。近(jin)解放時(shi)正山(shan)(shan)門(men)(men)淪(lun)為(wei)銀元市場(chang)。至(zhi)1949年(nian)(nian)(nian)存(cun)正山(shan)(shan)門(men)(men)及(ji)殿(dian)(dian)17座(zuo)(即三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)(qing)、方(fang)(fang)丈(zhang)、真(zhen)(zhen)人(ren)(ren)、肝(gan)胃、藥(yao)王、東(dong)岳(yue)、火神(shen)(shen)、三(san)(san)茅、天后、真(zhen)(zhen)官(guan)(guan)、文昌、機房(fang)(fang)、三(san)(san)官(guan)(guan)、雷(lei)尊(zun)(zun)、觀(guan)(guan)音(yin)諸殿(dian)(dian)及(ji)斗姆(mu)閣、太陽(yang)宮)。1952年(nian)(nian)(nian)有(you)道(dao)(dao)士33人(ren)(ren)，家(jia)屬83人(ren)(ren)，香(xiang)工(gong)6人(ren)(ren)；有(you)屋523.5間(jian)，內(nei)(nei)自用(yong)200間(jian)，余(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)多(duo)出租。1956年(nian)(nian)(nian)統計，占地(di)51.72畝，神(shen)(shen)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)519尊(zun)(zun)，同年(nian)(nian)(nian)將(jiang)廣(guang)場(chang)周圍600余(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)戶店(dian)攤居民(min)遷(qian)出，斗姆(mu)閣改建為(wei)書畫店(dian)。1957年(nian)(nian)(nian)全觀(guan)(guan)收(shou)入(ru)：房(fang)(fang)地(di)租454元，香(xiang)火94元，法事29元，其(qi)他343元。1958年(nian)(nian)(nian)11月道(dao)(dao)教學習會直(zhi)接掌管三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)(qing)、星(xing)宿(su)(原屬觀(guan)(guan)音(yin)殿(dian)(dian)，1956年(nian)(nian)(nian)將(jiang)在(zai)清(qing)(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)花甲星(xing)宿(su)塑(su)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)遷(qian)入(ru)，故名)兩殿(dian)(dian)及(ji)雷(lei)尊(zun)(zun)、火神(shen)(shen)的大(da)殿(dian)(dian)部(bu)分(fen)，余(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)殿(dian)(dian)除(chu)留少(shao)量道(dao)(dao)士自住外，都交給(gei)房(fang)(fang)管局管理，13道(dao)(dao)房(fang)(fang)至(zhi)此(ci)(ci)消(xiao)失(shi)(shi)。1959年(nian)(nian)(nian)東(dong)岳(yue)殿(dian)(dian)焚毀。該殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)的五岳(yue)樓(lou)，構建工(gong)巧(qiao)，四面殿(dian)(dian)宇，中(zhong)峙(zhi)一(yi)樓(lou)，“大(da)躍進”中(zhong)全殿(dian)(dian)拆去。1964年(nian)(nian)(nian)市政府(fu)又撥(bo)款(kuan)整修，三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)與(yu)正山(shan)(shan)門(men)(men)油漆一(yi)新，廣(guang)場(chang)中(zhong)遍植綠(lv)樹草茵(yin)。“文化(hua)大(da)革命”起，除(chu)三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)神(shen)(shen)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)幸獲保(bao)存(cun)(“玉(yu)清(qing)(qing)(qing)”神(shen)(shen)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)的頭部(bu)被(bei)砍)外，其(qi)余(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)神(shen)(shen)像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)、道(dao)(dao)經、科書被(bei)焚燒(shao)數(shu)晝夜，銅像(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)8尊(zun)(zun)亦(yi)被(bei)毀，三(san)(san)清(qing)(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)一(yi)度改為(wei)收(shou)租院(yuan)泥塑(su)展覽會，兩廊各配殿(dian)(dian)在(zai) 60～70年(nian)(nian)(nian)代(dai)陸續改作(zuo)商店(dian)、倉庫、菜場(chang)。

其間失去的(de)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)宇分別為(wei)(wei)彌羅寶(bao)閣，1912年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)失火焚毀(hui)，原地改(gai)建(jian)中山堂；灶君殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1917年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)出借給(gei)同仁救火會(hui)，1930年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)被會(hui)擅自拆除(chu)改(gai)建(jian)，后為(wei)(wei)勞保用品商店；太(tai)陽宮，1914年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)為(wei)(wei)吳縣黃天源糕團店門(men)市(shi)部(bu)；東岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1922年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)出租給(gei)昆劇業(ye)余(yu)(yu)劇團，1959年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)東岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)失火燒(shao)毀(hui)，1961年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)該(gai)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)山門(men)及(ji)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)址由影劇公司(si)使用；斗姆閣，解放前為(wei)(wei)攤(tan)販(fan)公會(hui)使用，抗戰勝利后被典賣給(gei)居民，現(xian)為(wei)(wei)民居；祖師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1937年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)蘇州淪陷時毀(hui)，現(xian)為(wei)(wei)輕工(gong)門(men)市(shi)部(bu)；八仙殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)坍毀(hui)，現(xian)為(wei)(wei)菜(cai)場；三官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)借給(gei)春苑茶(cha)館(guan)，現(xian)為(wei)(wei)茶(cha)場；水府殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)造國貨公司(si)時，將(jiang)北局觀前菜(cai)場遷(qian)移至此，殿(dian)(dian)(dian)被拆掉；關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1937年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)日機轟(hong)炸被震坍，現(xian)為(wei)(wei)花木盆景公司(si)；痘司(si)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，30年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)代被典押后成為(wei)(wei)民居。今(jin)仍屬道教使用的(de)除(chu)正山門(men)、三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)外，尚(shang)有火神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、星宿(su)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、雷尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，其余(yu)(yu)的(de)則(ze)后來又被有關單位占用或拆除(chu)。

玄妙觀(guan)(guan)內(nei)(nei)文化積(ji)淀深厚，民間傳說動人，舊(jiu)有(you)十(shi)八景之說，分別(bie)為元(yuan)趙孟(meng)頫所書玄妙觀(guan)(guan)重(zhong)修山門碑、麒(qi)麟照(zhao)墻(qiang)、朝(chao)北玄帝銅殿、六角亭、釘(ding)釘(ding)石欄桿、一(yi)步三條橋、無字碑、海星壇、一(yi)人弄、楊芝畫、運木(mu)古(gu)井、妙一(yi)統元(yuan)匾額、靠天吃飯圖碑，如今十(shi)八景中還保存九處。玄妙觀(guan)(guan)文物中著名的還有(you)歷代碑刻，有(you)老子像碑、永(yong)禁機匠叫歇碑等等計有(you)八十(shi)一(yi)塊。除部分收藏在文廟外，還余下不少成為碑廊，現藏在輕工門市部夾(jia)弄內(nei)(nei)，歷劫不滅，彌足珍貴。

玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)觀值得一(yi)提的(de)還(huan)有正山(shan)(shan)門八(ba)字(zi)照墻(qiang)，當年為(wei)此還(huan)掀起(qi)過(guo)一(yi)場軒然大波。照墻(qiang)前原有一(yi)排(pai)平屋，有七、八(ba)家(jia)商(shang)(shang)鋪，1930年觀前街拓寬，影響這些(xie)商(shang)(shang)鋪，德記地(di)產公司(si)出面(mian)向(xiang)玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)觀方丈顏品笙協商(shang)(shang)拆除照墻(qiang)，租用兩側地(di)基，搭屋經(jing)商(shang)(shang)，條件是訂(ding)約十五年，付(fu)給押金一(yi)萬元(yuan)。此舉一(yi)出，引起(qi)地(di)方人士反對，形(xing)成“保古派(pai)”與“保商(shang)(shang)派(pai)”之(zhi)爭，后經(jing)江蘇(su)省建設廳批準，正山(shan)(shan)門兩端建起(qi)了與玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)觀極(ji)不(bu)協調的(de)三(san)層樓房，道觀古樸肅穆的(de)風(feng)貌(mao)從(cong)此不(bu)復(fu)再現。

玄妙觀(guan)三(san)清殿之(zhi)(zhi)后(hou)，原有(you)一(yi)座始建于明正統(tong)三(san)年(1438)的彌羅寶閣(ge)。閣(ge)高(gao)3層，闊9間，飛檐(yan)翹角(jiao)，高(gao)聳云天，十分壯觀(guan)。所(suo)供(gong)神像(xiang)，上層是萬皇帝主(zhu)，左右(you)配祀28星(xing)宿；底層是萬地帝主(zhu)，左右(you)配祀60花甲(jia)星(xing)宿。露(lu)臺石刻(ke)尤稱珍貴，轉角(jiao)處嵌(qian)有(you)畫(hua)像(xiang)石，一(yi)刻(ke)□爵祿(lu)來(lai)同像(xiang)，一(yi)刻(ke)掛印封侯像(xiang)，另一(yi)面(mian)刻(ke)有(you)八蠻(man)進寶圖。露(lu)臺扶欄(lan)亦(yi)有(you)精美石雕，古氣磅礴，與山東武梁(liang)祠、郭(guo)巨墓漢畫(hua)石刻(ke)，神態逼肖，當為(wei)晉寧道院或唐開(kai)元(yuan)宮之(zhi)(zhi)舊物。如此(ci)一(yi)座堪稱蘇(su)州樓(lou)閣(ge)之(zhi)(zhi)最的古建筑，卻不幸毀于民國元(yuan)年(1912)8月28日晚的一(yi)場至今原因不明的大(da)火之(zhi)(zhi)中。

葉圣(sheng)陶(tao)在失火(huo)當日(ri)(ri)日(ri)(ri)記中記云(yun)(yun)：“入夜，紅光燭(zhu)天(tian)，人聲喧(xuan)沓，開(kai)門而(er)望(wang)之，在余家西北面，繼而(er)鑼聲四應矣。后(hou)知燒(shao)去(qu)者為(wei)觀里彌羅(luo)寶閣(ge)。此閣(ge)年代極(ji)古，工程至(zhi)(zhi)鉅且(qie)精(jing)。偌大建筑(zhu)物付(fu)之一(yi)炬，殊(shu)可(ke)惜(xi)，且(qie)守者止一(yi)二(er)人，石柱(zhu)堅墻(qiang)(qiang)何致起(qi)(qi)火(huo)？即(ji)著火(huo)亦(yi)何致全(quan)毀？一(yi)般(ban)迷(mi)信(xin)家恐又將造出許多神(shen)話(hua)也(ye)。”翌日(ri)(ri)葉至(zhi)(zhi)現場(chang)察(cha)看后(hou)于日(ri)(ri)記中寫(xie)道：“晨至(zhi)(zhi)頡剛(gang)處，幾伊(yi)亦(yi)來，乃偕赴觀里觀火(huo)場(chang)劫(jie)場(chang)。可(ke)憐莊嚴宮(gong)殿只剩碎瓦(wa)殘(can)灰(hui)，神(shen)鬼威力果何在哉！亦(yi)可(ke)稍(shao)示迷(mi)信(xin)家矣。然觀里為(wei)吳中名勝(sheng)，遠道來游者至(zhi)(zhi)多，故觀里商業(ye)亦(yi)為(wei)蘇地(di)冠，從此或將冷落矣。入訪詢起(qi)(qi)火(huo)原由，亦(yi)云(yun)(yun)不可(ke)得知，徒知先有火(huo)在第(di)二(er)層，而(er)第(di)二(er)層樓(lou)則常(chang)閉者也(ye)。”又圣(sheng)昌熾《緣督廬(lu)日(ri)(ri)記》壬子年七月十(shi)六日(ri)(ri)記云(yun)(yun)：“晚(wan)餐正陳(chen)，陡(dou)聞樓(lou)上驚(jing)呼聲，一(yi)舉首(shou)則霄半(ban)有光煜(yu)然，墻(qiang)(qiang)壁窗(chuang)牖(you)皆如(ru)倒景反射，再視(shi)則紅火(huo)燭(zhu)天(tian)矣。亟登樓(lou)視(shi)之，白煙(yan)蓬蓬而(er)起(qi)(qi)，火(huo)星飛爆，如(ru)萬弩(nu)之齊發，寂無警笛耳輪，但聞膈膊(bo)聲。自夜七鐘(zhong)半(ban)，焚(fen)至(zhi)(zhi)八鐘(zhong)半(ban)始熄。”偌大一(yi)座樓(lou)閣(ge)化為(wei)灰(hui)燼。是失火(huo)？還是縱火(huo)？至(zhi)(zhi)今仍是謎。

中山堂即在彌羅寶閣原址建(jian)造，現為影劇公(gong)司(si)占用。

主要景點

玄妙觀

玄妙觀三清(qing)殿于1982年2月列為全國重點文物保護單位。

玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)極盛(sheng)時有(you)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇30余座，是當時全(quan)國最大(da)的(de)道(dao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)。現有(you)山門、主殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)（三清(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)）、副(fu) 殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)（彌(mi)羅(luo)寶(bao)閣）及21座配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。山門雄偉高(gao)聳，上(shang)(shang)懸(xuan)康熙帝御筆(bi)賜額“圓妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)”。南宋(song)淳熙六(liu)年(nian)（1179年(nian)）重建的(de)主殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)三清(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)面闊9間，進深6間，高(gao)約30米，建筑(zhu)面積1125平方米，重檐歇山，巍峨壯麗，是江南一(yi)帶現存(cun)最大(da)的(de)宋(song)代木構建筑(zhu)。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)中(zhong)須(xu)彌(mi)座上(shang)(shang)供高(gao)17米泥塑貼金的(de)3尊神像(xiang)(xiang)，正中(zhong)是元(yuan)始天尊，兩旁是靈寶(bao)天尊和道(dao)德(de)天尊，俗稱(cheng)三清(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)。神像(xiang)(xiang) 高(gao)大(da)莊嚴，是宋(song)代道(dao)教塑像(xiang)(xiang)中(zhong)的(de)上(shang)(shang)品。三清(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)中(zhong)道(dao)德(de)天尊又稱(cheng)太上(shang)(shang) 老君(jun)，傳為(wei)老子(zi)李耳。其像(xiang)(xiang)座有(you)老君(jun)像(xiang)(xiang)石(shi)刻，為(wei)唐吳道(dao)子(zi)繪(hui)像(xiang)(xiang)，唐玄(xuan)宗題贊，顏真卿書(shu)，由宋(song)代刻石(shi)高(gao)手張允迪摹刻，可稱(cheng)“四(si) 絕(jue)”碑，是目前(qian)國內(nei)僅存(cun)的(de)兩塊老子(zi)像(xiang)(xiang)碑之一(yi)。三清(qing)(qing)(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)西(xi)山墻有(you)60根大(da)青石(shi)六(liu)面柱，每面刻有(you)一(yi)天尊像(xiang)(xiang)，共刻360天尊像(xiang)(xiang)，合周年(nian)數。玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)前(qian)一(yi)條街(jie)(jie)名觀(guan)(guan)(guan)前(qian)街(jie)(jie)，為(wei)蘇(su)州的(de)主要商(shang)業街(jie)(jie)之一(yi)。

三清殿

三(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)玄妙(miao)觀正殿(dian)(dian)，南宋淳熙六(liu)年(nian)(1179)重(zhong)建。重(zhong)檐(yan)歇山造，面(mian)(mian)(mian)闊9間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)，廣45.64米(mi)(mi)，進深(shen)(shen)6間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)，深(shen)(shen)25.25米(mi)(mi)，通(tong)高(gao)(gao)約27米(mi)(mi)，面(mian)(mian)(mian)闊與進深(shen)(shen)之比為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)9：5。殿(dian)(dian)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)排列(lie)，縱橫成行，內(nei)(nei)外一(yi)致，共有(you)(you)(you)7列(lie)，每列(lie)10柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)，無“減柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)”或“移柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)”，俗稱“滿堂柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)”。四周檐(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)八(ba)角(jiao)石(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)，共30根(gen)；殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)諸柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)除(chu)內(nei)(nei)槽(cao)中央(yang)三(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)4根(gen)后金柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)抹角(jiao)石(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)外，均(jun)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)圓木(mu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)，共 36根(gen)。柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)礎均(jun)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)連磉有(you)(you)(you)唇覆盆(pen)式(shi)，檐(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)礎上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)再施仿木(mu)質八(ba)角(jiao)形石(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)腳，殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)木(mu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)則于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)礎上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)加石(shi)鼓。下(xia)(xia)檐(yan)斗(dou)拱(gong)(gong)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)四鋪(pu)(pu)(pu)單昂(ang)(ang)，昂(ang)(ang)的(de)(de)(de)下(xia)(xia)緣向上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)微微反(fan)曲。柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭鋪(pu)(pu)(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)昂(ang)(ang)嘴實為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)內(nei)(nei)檐(yan)華(hua)拱(gong)(gong)的(de)(de)(de)延長，其(qi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)承月(yue)梁(liang)(liang)。梁(liang)(liang)頭伸出作(zuo)(zuo)耍(shua)頭，斫作(zuo)(zuo)宋式(shi)梢頭。補(bu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)鋪(pu)(pu)(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)皆用(yong)真(zhen)昂(ang)(ang)，后尾挑(tiao)起(qi)，以承托下(xia)(xia)平西方(fang)槫下(xia)(xia)的(de)(de)(de)令(ling)拱(gong)(gong)，即《營(ying)造法(fa)(fa)式(shi)》上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)的(de)(de)(de)“飛昂(ang)(ang)”制度。上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)檐(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭與補(bu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)鋪(pu)(pu)(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)均(jun)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)重(zhong)昂(ang)(ang)，結(jie)構(gou)完全(quan)一(yi)致，但僅為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)華(hua)拱(gong)(gong)前端做出假昂(ang)(ang)，其(qi)后并無昂(ang)(ang)挑(tiao)起(qi)的(de)(de)(de)杠桿作(zuo)(zuo)用(yong)。至于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)內(nei)(nei)槽(cao)斗(dou)拱(gong)(gong)，則于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)重(zhong)抄之上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)，前后兩面(mian)(mian)(mian)用(yong)“上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)”成為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)“六(liu)鋪(pu)(pu)(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)重(zhong)抄上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)斗(dou)拱(gong)(gong)”結(jie)構(gou)，為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)國內(nei)(nei)孤例(li)。在(zai)櫨斗(dou)兩側，結(jie)構(gou)完全(quan)對(dui)稱，較(jiao)《營(ying)造法(fa)(fa)式(shi)》所載上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)做法(fa)(fa)更為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)簡化(hua)。又內(nei)(nei)槽(cao)內(nei)(nei)轉(zhuan)角(jiao)鋪(pu)(pu)(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)，在(zai)后金柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)都(dou)用(yong)插(cha)拱(gong)(gong)，即以丁頭拱(gong)(gong)插(cha)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)內(nei)(nei)，無櫨斗(dou)，亦此(ci)殿(dian)(dian)斗(dou)拱(gong)(gong)重(zhong)要特(te)征，為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)國內(nei)(nei)現存最古(gu)實例(li)。內(nei)(nei)槽(cao)斗(dou)拱(gong)(gong)之上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)，更施平棋，殿(dian)(dian)的(de)(de)(de)梁(liang)(liang)架(jia)結(jie)構(gou)，外槽(cao)梁(liang)(liang)架(jia)先施順木(mu)伏串，次于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭鋪(pu)(pu)(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)架(jia)月(yue)梁(liang)(liang)，復用(yong)襻間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)作(zuo)(zuo)。月(yue)梁(liang)(liang)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)又施櫨斗(dou)，置十(shi)字交(jiao)叉令(ling)拱(gong)(gong)，承上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)層月(yue)梁(liang)(liang)與槫下(xia)(xia)柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)頭枋。結(jie)構(gou)與《營(ying)造法(fa)(fa)式(shi)》亦能(neng)符合。內(nei)(nei)額除(chu)中央(yang)四縫外，都(dou)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)其(qi)下(xia)(xia)另加上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)枋，二者之間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)用(yong)襻間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)鋪(pu)(pu)(pu)作(zuo)(zuo)。殿(dian)(dian)的(de)(de)(de)內(nei)(nei)槽(cao)中央(yang)5間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)后金柱(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)，筑磚壁達(da)內(nei)(nei)額下(xia)(xia)皮，壁前有(you)(you)(you)磚砌須(xu)彌座，面(mian)(mian)(mian)闊3間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)，高(gao)(gao)1.75米(mi)(mi)，式(shi)樣略如《營(ying)造法(fa)(fa)式(shi)》而繁密過之。上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)奉三(san)清(qing)(qing)像(xiang)，趺坐于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)方(fang)座上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)，像(xiang)高(gao)(gao)約6米(mi)(mi)，高(gao)(gao)于(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)地(di)面(mian)(mian)(mian)約10.5米(mi)(mi)，神(shen)態凝重(zhong)，衣(yi)褶生動，是(shi)古(gu)代道教(jiao)造像(xiang)中的(de)(de)(de)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)品。殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)壁間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)嵌有(you)(you)(you)碑石(shi)多(duo)方(fang)，以南宋寶慶元(yuan)年(nian)(1225)所刻(ke)“太上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)老君像(xiang)”最為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)珍貴，像(xiang)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)唐代吳道子所繪，形貌(mao)蒼褶流暢，上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)方(fang)有(you)(you)(you)顏真(zhen)卿所書唐玄宗李隆基的(de)(de)(de)“贊”四言十(shi)六(liu)句，刻(ke)工為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)張(zhang)允迪。三(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)臺基面(mian)(mian)(mian)闊49.6米(mi)(mi)，進深(shen)(shen)29.5米(mi)(mi)，現高(gao)(gao)出周圍地(di)面(mian)(mian)(mian)約1 米(mi)(mi)。前施月(yue)臺，面(mian)(mian)(mian)闊27.2米(mi)(mi)，進深(shen)(shen)16.3米(mi)(mi)，中央(yang)立鐵鼎。正面(mian)(mian)(mian)與左、右各踏跺，周以青(qing)石(shi)勾(gou)欄。臺基僅南面(mian)(mian)(mian)東、西梢間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)及盡間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)有(you)(you)(you)石(shi)欄，與月(yue)臺石(shi)欄貫通(tong)，華(hua)版雕刻(ke)極細，內(nei)(nei)容(rong)有(you)(you)(you)人物、走(zou)獸、飛禽、水族(zu)、山水、云樹、亭閣等，頗(po)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)古(gu)樸生動，為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)宋或宋以前作(zuo)(zuo)品。三(san)清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)(dian)是(shi)江蘇最古(gu)的(de)(de)(de)木(mu)結(jie)構(gou)建筑，也是(shi)國內(nei)(nei)現存體量最大(da)的(de)(de)(de)宋代大(da)殿(dian)(dian)。

正山門

正山門(men)位于三清殿南約80米(mi)(mi)處，清乾(qian)隆四十年(nian)(1775)重建。重檐歇山造，面闊5間，廣(guang)20米(mi)(mi)，進深(shen)12米(mi)(mi)，于當心間脊柱(zhu)間設斷(duan)砌(qi)門(men)。

如意門

如(ru)意門(西腳(jiao)門)內的雷(lei)尊(zun)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)初名雷(lei)神(shen)蓼(liao)，亦為(wei)坐北朝南(nan)的重(zhong)檐歇山式建(jian)筑(zhu)，明(ming)(ming)天順二年(1458)建(jian)，清(qing)康熙(xi)四年(1665)重(zhong)修，面闊3間(jian)，廣16米(mi)(mi)，進深14米(mi)(mi)，前加卷棚頂(ding)軒廊3間(jian)，與下檐形成(cheng)勾(gou)連搭屋頂(ding)，通進深21米(mi)(mi)，梁架(jia)結(jie)構(gou)及柱礎(chu)制均有(you)明(ming)(ming)代特征，殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)南(nan)尚(shang)存山門3間(jian)。此外，觀(guan)內現存殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)閣，東有(you)財神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、天醫藥王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、斗(dou)姆閣等，西有(you)觀(guan)音(yin)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)等，北有(you)蓑衣真人殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、方丈殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)等，多數為(wei)晚清(qing)重(zhong)建(jian)。

保(bao)存在觀內碑(bei)刻有數十種，上(shang)起宋代，下迄清末(mo)。

通神先(xian)生(sheng)何(he)蓑衣事實碑(bei) 在(zai)蓑衣真人殿。碑(bei)高(gao)1.55米、寬(kuan)1.08米，胡袤撰(zhuan)，宋孝宗(zong)脊題“通神庵”三字，南宋慶(qing)元三年(nian)(1197)刻(ke)石。

詔建三清(qing)大殿(dian)(dian)上梁文碑在(zai)(zai)祖師殿(dian)(dian)遺址碑廊。碑高1.62米(mi)、寬0.93米(mi)，南宋淳熙八年(1181)龔(gong)頤正撰(zhuan)，嘉(jia)定(ding)十一年(1218)立石，張允迪刻，原在(zai)(zai)三清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)。

老君(jun)像碑在頤正(zheng)殿(dian)。碑高1.8米(mi)、寬0.91米(mi)，吳(wu)道(dao)子畫，唐玄(xuan)宗李隆(long)基贊，顏真卿書(shu)，馮大(da)同跋，張允迪刻，南(nan)宋(song)寶慶元(yuan)年(1225)立石(shi)。

朝(chao)旨蠲免天慶觀道正司科敷(fu)度牒尚書省(sheng)札部(bu)符使帖碑在三清殿。高1.97米、寬1.08米，頂(ding)端(duan)抹角，南宋端(duan)平元年(1234)立(li)。

清理道教碑(bei)(bei) 在三清殿外(wai)東側。高(gao)6.5米(mi)、寬2.7米(mi)，方孝孺撰并(bing)書(shu)，明(ming)洪武中年(1371)立，后(hou)方氏被(bei)誅，碑(bei)(bei)文被(bei)劃(hua)去(qu)，故(gu)俗(su)稱(cheng)無字碑(bei)(bei)。

重修三(san)清殿記碑在火神殿南小弄內。高1.66米、寬(kuan)0.9米，王進撰，衛(wei)靖書(shu)，張徽篆額，明宣德四年(nian)(1429)呂志清立(li)石(shi)，左上角殘(can)缺，碑文已漫(man)漶。

重修玄妙觀五(wu)岳樓記碑現存祖師(shi)遺址碑廊。高1.15米(mi)、寬0.66米(mi)，李杰(jie)撰，陳昌言刻，明弘治十六年(1503)立，原置東(dong)岳殿。

玄妙觀三清殿(dian)至今已有(you)八百多(duo)年歷史，九開間(jian)的宏殿(dian)巍(wei)峨軒昂，原(yuan)來說是(shi)在江南(nan)絕無僅有(you)，后來文物專家(jia)羅哲(zhe)文來蘇考察，說是(shi)全國也沒有(you)這(zhe)樣巨大(da)的南(nan)宋(song)建筑(zhu)( 其氣勢(shi)只(zhi)有(you)北京故宮的太和殿(dian)和曲(qu)阜孔廟大(da)成殿(dian)可與之相比、但這(zhe)些建筑(zhu)的年代都遠遠晚于南(nan)宋(song))，所以三清殿(dian)稱為國寶當之無愧！

集市特色

玄(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)為全國著名(ming)道(dao)觀(guan)(guan)，又是歷史悠久的(de)傳統集市(shi)。馮(feng)夢龍《警世(shi)通言》無礙居士序中說(shuo)：“吾頃從玄(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)聽說(shuo)《三國志(zhi)》來。”說(shuo)明(ming)玄(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)在明(ming)天(tian)啟年間已有露天(tian)書場。至清代(dai)設攤者日(ri)多(duo)，遂演(yan)變成為古城中心一(yi)處熱鬧的(de)集市(shi)，有小吃、日(ri)用雜品、文具玩(wan)具、對(dui)聯字(zi)畫、花鳥魚蟲的(de)攤店(dian)以(yi)及醫卜星(xing)相、江湖雜耍(shua)等(deng)等(deng)，五花八門，不一(yi)而足。茲就昔日(ri)報(bao)刊(kan)所載30年代(dai)前后玄(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)集市(shi)狀況略(lve)舉一(yi)二(er)，以(yi)見(jian)其(qi)概貌。

小吃特色

玄妙觀(guan)的小吃，名(ming)目繁(fan)多，如(ru)小米子糖(tang)、灰湯(tang)粽、氽(tun)魷魚(yu)、熏魚(yu)、涼粉、藕粉、千張百頁(ye)、酒(jiu)釀圓子、豆(dou)腐花、糖(tang)粥、梅(mei)花糕(gao)、海棠糕(gao)、焐酥豆(dou)、五香(xiang)茶葉蛋、雞鴨血湯(tang)，其余如(ru)面(mian)、小籠饅頭、鍋(guo)貼、燒賣、餛(hun)飩、湯(tang)團等(deng)(deng)等(deng)(deng)，應有盡(jin)有。著名(ming)的攤店，有專(zhuan)售梨膏(gao)糖(tang)的文(wen)魁齋(zhai)、觀(guan)振興(xing)面(mian)店、王源興(xing)酒(jiu)釀豆(dou)漿店、小有天藕粉店、五芳(fang)齋(zhai)、六芳(fang)齋(zhai)、七芳(fang)齋(zhai)等(deng)(deng)等(deng)(deng)，還有百年以上歷史的三(san)萬思、品芳(fang)兩家茶館。可以說玄妙觀(guan)是蘇(su)州小吃最為(wei)集中的地方(fang)。

年畫特色

三清殿內是傳統(tong)的年畫(hua)(hua)市(shi)場(chang)，出(chu)售桃花塢出(chu)版的各種畫(hua)(hua)張，如(ru)神(shen)(shen)(shen)軸、灶神(shen)(shen)(shen)、門(men)神(shen)(shen)(shen)、百壽(shou)圖(tu)、送子(zi)圖(tu)、鳳穿(chuan)牡丹、魚跳龍門(men)、歲寒三友、梅(mei)開五福、岳(yue)飛抗(kang)金、關羽夜讀春秋、二(er)十(shi)四孝等(deng)等(deng)，民國以(yi)后上海的彩印美女圖(tu)、風景畫(hua)(hua)進入觀(guan)內，受到大眾歡迎。另有對(dui)聯(lian)、立軸，并可請名家當(dang)場(chang)揮毫，其中最著名者(zhe)汪煥(huan)文(度)，自號“鄧尉(wei)山農”，在三清殿書寫對(dui)聯(lian)數(shu)十(shi)年之久。

觀內(nei)空地經常(chang)演出各(ge)種江湖雜耍，有變戲法(fa)、木偶戲、耍猴戲、西洋鏡、唱(chang)小熱昏、賣(mai)拳頭、說露天書等(deng)等(deng)。鑼鼓響處，圍滿人群，熙熙攘攘，熱鬧非凡(fan)。

醫卜星相更

醫(yi)卜星(xing)相(xiang)更是玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)一大特(te)色，有(you)(you)(you)(you)祖傳(chuan)秘(mi)方、專治(zhi)氣喘、癆疾(ji)、筋骨(gu)酸疼的(de)(de)(de)(de)江湖郎(lang)中(zhong)，有(you)(you)(you)(you)撥(bo)牙(ya)的(de)(de)(de)(de)牙(ya)醫(yi)，有(you)(you)(you)(you)主治(zhi)跌打(da)損傷的(de)(de)(de)(de)傷科等(deng)等(deng)。遠近聞名(ming)(ming)(ming)(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)葛云彬、謝明(ming)(ming)(ming)德都曾(ceng)在此(ci)掛(gua)牌設(she)攤(tan)(tan)。算命(ming)、相(xiang)面(mian)、測(ce)字的(de)(de)(de)(de)集(ji)中(zhong)在東腳門至牛(niu)角(jiao)浜一路，有(you)(you)(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)當街(jie)設(she)一桌一椅，有(you)(you)(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)設(she)館，總稱“巾行”，七(qi)十二巾可謂樣樣齊全。有(you)(you)(you)(you)量(liang)手(shou)曰(yue)“量(liang)巾”，鳥銜設(she)牌曰(yue)“鳥巾”，拉(la)胡琴曰(yue)“夾(jia)絲(si)巾”，敲搭(da)板小(xiao)(xiao)鑼曰(yue)“響巾”，相(xiang)面(mian)曰(yue)“斬盤搶巾”，批八字曰(yue)“八黑”，搖(yao)課(ke)曰(yue)“圓頭”，拆(chai)(chai)字曰(yue)“小(xiao)(xiao)黑”，瞎子(zi)(zi)摸(mo)(mo)牌曰(yue)“觀(guan)梅”。相(xiang)面(mian)有(you)(you)(you)(you)手(shou)相(xiang)、摸(mo)(mo)骨(gu)相(xiang)等(deng)幾(ji)種，以(yi)一鑒明(ming)(ming)(ming)(真(zhen)名(ming)(ming)(ming)(ming)張子(zi)(zi)芳)、朱少卿最為(wei)(wei)有(you)(you)(you)(you)名(ming)(ming)(ming)(ming)。相(xiang)面(mian)兼(jian)算命(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)(you)四明(ming)(ming)(ming)山(shan)人、王一舟等(deng)。算命(ming)兼(jian)堪輿(風水(shui)、地(di)理(li)、流年(nian)(nian)(nian)、合(he)婚(hun))的(de)(de)(de)(de)，以(yi)楊(yang)鳳巢、蔣通天(tian)、凌云山(shan)、楊(yang)守成(cheng)、鄒慕鴻等(deng)為(wei)(wei)主。拆(chai)(chai)字的(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)(you)談(tan)虎臣、張天(tian)良等(deng)。起(qi)課(ke)的(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)(you)文王課(ke)、六壬課(ke)，以(yi)明(ming)(ming)(ming)如鏡(jing)為(wei)(wei)有(you)(you)(you)(you)名(ming)(ming)(ming)(ming)。還有(you)(you)(you)(you)鴻運來(真(zhen)名(ming)(ming)(ming)(ming)泊良)的(de)(de)(de)(de)烏(wu)龜(gui)測(ce)字，他(ta)(ta)把事先用膠(jiao)水(shui)寫好的(de)(de)(de)(de)字條(tiao)，放在置(zhi)有(you)(you)(you)(you)烏(wu)賊骨(gu)粉的(de)(de)(de)(de)烏(wu)龜(gui)殼內，搖(yao)動幾(ji)下便顯(xian)出字跡(ji)，以(yi)此(ci)吸引好奇者(zhe)。他(ta)(ta)們(men)或(huo)取號(hao)“賽諸葛”、“小(xiao)(xiao)神仙”，或(huo)自稱“能(neng)知過(guo)去未來，善斷(duan)(duan)吉兇禍福”，舉凡男女婚(hun)配(pei)、家庭糾紛、生老(lao)病死、官(guan)運財(cai)氣均是他(ta)(ta)們(men)測(ce)算的(de)(de)(de)(de)范圍。俗話說“江湖一點(dian)訣，莫對妻子(zi)(zi)說，若對妻子(zi)(zi)說，飯都沒得吃！”然而，明(ming)(ming)(ming)明(ming)(ming)(ming)是迷信騙(pian)局，卻(que)有(you)(you)(you)(you)無(wu)數人找到(dao)他(ta)(ta)們(men)尋求慰藉，直到(dao)解(jie)放后(hou)他(ta)(ta)們(men)才由(you)政(zheng)府安排轉(zhuan)業。以(yi)上所述(shu)說明(ming)(ming)(ming)，由(you)于玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)歷史和(he)地(di)理(li)條(tiao)件，使它成(cheng)為(wei)(wei)與北(bei)京天(tian)橋、南(nan)京夫子(zi)(zi)廟、上海老(lao)城隍廟齊名(ming)(ming)(ming)(ming)而又具有(you)(you)(you)(you)蘇州地(di)方特(te)色的(de)(de)(de)(de)熱鬧場所。蘇州人常說“白相(xiang)玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)”，外地(di)人到(dao)蘇州也(ye)必至玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)一游(you)，這已經成(cheng)為(wei)(wei)人們(men)的(de)(de)(de)(de)共識。隨(sui)著時代的(de)(de)(de)(de)發(fa)展，玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)也(ye)在不斷(duan)(duan)發(fa)生變(bian)化(hua)，但它既是古跡(ji)名(ming)(ming)(ming)(ming)勝，又為(wei)(wei)傳(chuan)統(tong)(tong)集(ji)市(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)這一基本性(xing)質和(he)特(te)點(dian)，始(shi)終未變(bian)，1956年(nian)(nian)(nian)，對玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)攤(tan)(tan)販進(jin)行整理(li)，保持了小(xiao)(xiao)吃為(wei)(wei)主的(de)(de)(de)(de)傳(chuan)統(tong)(tong)特(te)色。“文化(hua)大革命(ming)”期間，取消(xiao)玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)集(ji)市(shi)。1979年(nian)(nian)(nian)12月，江蘇省12市(shi)、縣糖果(guo)評展會在玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)舉辦，隨(sui)后(hou)小(xiao)(xiao)吃攤(tan)(tan)、服裝攤(tan)(tan)、雜(za)貨(huo)攤(tan)(tan)及縫紉攤(tan)(tan)擁塞觀(guan)內，成(cheng)為(wei)(wei)蘇州恢復的(de)(de)(de)(de)集(ji)市(shi)。經多(duo)(duo)年(nian)(nian)(nian)整理(li)和(he)規劃，建起(qi)統(tong)(tong)一規格的(de)(de)(de)(de)售貨(huo)亭(ting)(ting)，西腳門甬道南(nan)段設(she)20多(duo)(duo)個傳(chuan)統(tong)(tong)小(xiao)(xiao)吃亭(ting)(ting)，北(bei)段有(you)(you)(you)(you)10多(duo)(duo)個縫紉攤(tan)(tan)；東腳門南(nan)段為(wei)(wei)服裝售貨(huo)亭(ting)(ting)，北(bei)段為(wei)(wei)修補皮匠攤(tan)(tan)點(dian)；三清殿后(hou)興起(qi)漁網漁具市(shi)場。1985年(nian)(nian)(nian)，玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)內有(you)(you)(you)(you)157個攤(tan)(tan)位。

實用信息

門票：

10元(yuan)（寺(si)觀覽勝）；15元(yuan)（姑(gu)蘇(su)道教(jiao)仙樂）；10元(yuan)（道教(jiao)飛鈸表(biao)演）。

公交：

乘(cheng)坐1、102、146、178、202、502到(dao)觀前街（東、西或樂橋）后，步行至街中(zhong)段的玄(xuan)妙觀內。

交通信息

可乘(cheng)游1東線到(dao)玄妙(miao)觀站下車，或(huo)乘(cheng)2線、1路、101路、38路等到(dao)觀前街(jie)站下車。