南屏山(shan)鐘(zhong)靈毓秀,凈(jing)慈寺香煙氤氳,為(wei)歷(li)代文(wen)人向往之(zhi)處。不少(shao)士(shi)大(da)(da)夫(fu)為(wei)避世出塵,常(chang)來該寺談(tan)禪吟(yin)詠,成為(wei)古代杭城(cheng)文(wen)風。還有(you)不少(shao)人來此筑(zhu)室(shi)隱(yin)居,讀書撰文(wen)。如元(yuan)代的莫維賢在寺旁(pang)建(jian)“南屏別墅”,明代的孫一元(yuan)筑(zhu)室(shi)高士(shi)塢(wu),柴紹炳辟(pi)“南屏書屋”;黃汝(ru)亨(heng)在雷峰塔旁(pang)建(jian)“寓林(lin)”,常(chang)常(chang)高朋(peng)滿座;著名(ming)文(wen)學家(jia)袁宏道(dao)曾于明萬歷(li)二十八年(1600年)長期寓居凈(jing)慈寺。清時(shi),南屏常(chang)有(you)詩社雅集(ji),也(ye)有(you)詩僧參加,此為(wei)南屏古文(wen)化之(zhi)一大(da)(da)特色。
在(zai)(zai)凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)門右邊有一(yi)(yi)座“南屏(ping)晚(wan)鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)”碑亭(ting),杭州著名(ming)的(de)(de)(de)西(xi)(xi)(xi)湖十景之(zhi)一(yi)(yi)—南屏(ping)晚(wan)鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)就(jiu)是這(zhe)里叩響的(de)(de)(de)。凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)的(de)(de)(de)鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)聲在(zai)(zai)歷史上(shang)久負盛(sheng)名(ming)。唐代詩(shi)人(ren)張岱(dai)“夜氣滃南屏(ping),輕(qing)風薄如紙;鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)聲出上(shang)方,夜渡空(kong)江(jiang)水”的(de)(de)(de)詩(shi)句就(jiu)已把凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)聲的(de)(de)(de)美妙寫得出神入(ru)境了。明太祖(zu)洪武年間(1368一(yi)(yi)1398年),鑄了一(yi)(yi)口重約兩萬斤的(de)(de)(de)巨鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),每日傍晚(wan),夕(xi)陽(yang)西(xi)(xi)(xi)下,暝(ming)色(se)蒼茫(mang),鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)聲在(zai)(zai)群(qun)山碧空(kong)中(zhong)回蕩,響徹云霄。由于(yu)南屏(ping)山空(kong)穴(xue)怪石較(jiao)多(duo),鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)聲經石穴(xue)回蕩互激,鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)聲傳播到十多(duo)里外。相傳康熙皇帝以目品(pin)西(xi)(xi)(xi)湖十景,均廣建庭閣,也在(zai)(zai)凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)寺(si)門外建一(yi)(yi)碑亭(ting),上(shang)刻“南屏(ping)晚(wan)鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)”四字。而西(xi)(xi)(xi)湖十景中(zhong),南屏(ping)晚(wan)鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)較(jiao)享盛(sheng)名(ming)。可惜在(zai)(zai)清朝末年,銅鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)在(zai)(zai)戰亂(luan)中(zhong)消失,鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)聲沉寂。
直到(dao)1984年10月,凈慈(ci)寺(si)在日本佛(fo)(fo)教界(jie)的(de)相助下,重(zhong)鑄(zhu)銅(tong)鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)。1986年11月21日,中日佛(fo)(fo)教界(jie)人士(shi)400多人歡聚凈慈(ci)寺(si),舉行了隆重(zhong)的(de)大梵鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)落(luo)成(cheng)法會,108記雄渾有力的(de)鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)聲(sheng)回蕩在西湖上空(kong),絕響百年的(de)南(nan)屏晚鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)重(zhong)新鳴起,為祖國(guo)美麗的(de)山(shan)湖壯(zhuang)色增輝(hui)。這口(kou)銅(tong)鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)懸掛(gua)在凈慈(ci)寺(si)重(zhong)建(jian)的(de)二層三檐的(de)鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)樓(lou)內,高3.6米,直徑2.3米,重(zhong)一萬公斤。造型古樸,外面鑄(zhu)有《大乘妙(miao)法蓮華經》,6.8萬余字,鑄(zhu)造精致,每敲一下,余音(yin)達2分鐘(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)之(zhi)久,余音(yin)裊裊,十(shi)分渾重(zhong)動聽。
寺(si)(si)(si)(si)前有雷峰(feng)(feng)古(gu)塔(ta),建于(yu)南屏支脈夕照(zhao)山(shan),古(gu)時有雷姓居此(ci),故(gu)稱雷峰(feng)(feng),吳越王妃(fei)黃氏(shi)建塔(ta)于(yu)此(ci),每當夕陽西墜,塔(ta)影橫空,自成一景(jing)。故(gu)宋(song)代(dai)詩人林(lin)逋(bu)有“夕照(zhao)前村見”之句,康熙玄燁、乾(qian)隆弘歷(li)均題名(ming)“雷峰(feng)(feng)西照(zhao)”,后人仍復(fu)原名(ming)為“雷峰(feng)(feng)夕照(zhao)”。該塔(ta)被毀前原為重檐飛棟,窗戶洞達。由(you)此(ci),“南屏晚鐘(zhong)”,“雷峰(feng)(feng)夕照(zhao)”,成為凈(jing)慈寺(si)(si)(si)(si)兩大勝景(jing),又為名(ming)剎(cha)增輝。“南山(shan)凈(jing)慈,北(bei)山(shan)靈隱”,為東(dong)南兩大名(ming)剎(cha),古(gu)人稱:“兩峰(feng)(feng)勝概山(shan)僧得,好為南屏一寫(xie)圖”。歷(li)代(dai)題詠作(zuo)畫的難以計(ji)數。凈(jing)慈寺(si)(si)(si)(si)由(you)五代(dai)吳越王創建。由(you)于(yu)四代(dai)錢王代(dai)代(dai)崇(chong)佛(fo)(fo)(fo),故(gu)凈(jing)慈寺(si)(si)(si)(si)前后左右佛(fo)(fo)(fo)剎(cha)林(lin)立(li),成為杭(hang)城較(jiao)大的寺(si)(si)(si)(si)院群。在雷峰(feng)(feng)塔(ta)下有塔(ta)院小昭(zhao)慶(qing)(qing)寺(si)(si)(si)(si),塔(ta)西有惠(hui)昭(zhao)寺(si)(si)(si)(si),峰(feng)(feng)北(bei)有瑞(rui)相院(即寶(bao)相寺(si)(si)(si)(si)),寺(si)(si)(si)(si)西有善(shan)慶(qing)(qing)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)(即興教寺(si)(si)(si)(si)),并有彌陀(tuo)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、顯應(ying)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、天王寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、安(an)吳寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、法性寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、廣教寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、空律寺(si)(si)(si)(si)等環列(lie)。晨鐘(zhong)暮鼓,梵(fan)唄(bai)相聞;故(gu)時人稱南屏山(shan)為“佛(fo)(fo)(fo)國山(shan)”。
凈慈(ci)寺依山(shan)而(er)建,背靠(kao)翠巒(luan),面(mian)對(dui)碧波,梵宇(yu)層疊,宏偉莊嚴(yan)。古時寺后(hou)山(shan)坡有蓮花洞、少(shao)林巖,右為石(shi)佛洞,東南有歡喜巖。
蓮花(hua)(hua)洞(dong)無頂,片(pian)片(pian)石芽(ya)從(cong)坡地(di)升起,蔚成巨(ju)型石蓮。志(zhi)書所載開山祖(zu)永(yong)明(ming)延壽每(mei)晚上山坐禪稱(cheng)念(nian)"阿彌陀凈(jing)慈寺佛",即在(zai)蓮花(hua)(hua)洞(dong)。相傳因(yin)永(yong)明(ming)大師在(zai)此吟(yin)誦(song)《蓮花(hua)(hua)經》,上天仙(xian)女來此散(san)花(hua)(hua),故名蓮花(hua)(hua)洞(dong),又(you)名雨花(hua)(hua)臺(tai)。明(ming)代司禮(li)太監孫隆曾在(zai)崖(ya)上鐫刻(ke)"花(hua)(hua)雨繽紛(fen)"題字,惜(xi)已漫漶(huan)難見。
洞(dong)前(qian)舊有(you)"居然亭",取意于(yu)明(ming)代紹興太守洪玉(yu)方(fang)詩句(ju):"一日茅棟成(cheng),居然我(wo)泉白"。此處歷來是文人(ren)墨客觀景吟誦的勝地,清時古亭廢(fei)圮(pi)成(cheng)為竹園。蓮花(hua)洞(dong)上有(you)奇巖隆(long)起,摩(mo)崖(ya)上鐫(juan)刻有(you)"少(shao)林"兩字,故(gu)稱少(shao)林巖。
蓮花洞(dong)右有(you)(you)石(shi)佛(fo)洞(dong),平地(di)兩(liang)石(shi)屹立形如佛(fo)龕,內鐫有(you)(you)石(shi)佛(fo)三尊(zun)。左壁有(you)(you)明代(dai)浙江總督(du)胡宗憲(xian)題刻"寰中天(tian)室"四字,右壁亦有(you)(you)摩(mo)崖題刻,為元(yuan)代(dai)至正四年(1344年)所鐫,字跡已模糊難辨。石(shi)佛(fo)洞(dong)東(dong)南有(you)(you)兩(liang)石(shi)相(xiang)對(dui)稱"歡喜巖"。古(gu)時(shi)曾鐫有(you)(you)三佛(fo),現已不存。此(ci)處(chu)石(shi)景袁宏道稱之為"凈慈之絕勝處(chu)"。
道(dao)容在凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)(si)(si)先塑十六(liu)應真像(xiang)(xiang),再(zai)塑五(wu)百(bai)羅(luo)漢,據說塑像(xiang)(xiang)都出一僧(seng)(seng)之(zhi)手,而儀貌各異,神氣如生,像(xiang)(xiang)塑成而僧(seng)(seng)化去;所(suo)建田字殿,將(jiang)五(wu)百(bai)羅(luo)漢分四層背座,尊尊異形,位(wei)置(zhi)曲折,屈指(zhi)多迷,為(wei)(wei)一大奇觀。道(dao)容建田字殿為(wei)(wei)江(jiang)南佛寺(si)(si)(si)之(zhi)首創,田字形平面既能供奉眾羅(luo)漢像(xiang)(xiang),且都面向信(xin)眾,采光(guang)(guang)較好,便于(yu)參拜禮佛,這是佛教(jiao)中的特殊(shu)建筑。節度(du)使曹勛為(wei)(wei)此撰記(ji)稱(cheng)該寺(si)(si)(si)重建后,“金碧輝煌,華梵(fan)絢麗,行都道(dao)場之(zhi)盛,特冠諸山”。紹興(xing)九年(1139年),宋(song)高(gao)宗大赦天下,為(wei)(wei)表(biao)示奉祀宋(song)徽宗,特將(jiang)凈(jing)慈(ci)禪寺(si)(si)(si)改名(ming)為(wei)(wei)“報恩光(guang)(guang)孝(xiao)禪寺(si)(si)(si)”,并將(jiang)惠照寺(si)(si)(si)并入(ru)。紹興(xing)十九年(1149年)十月(yue),又改稱(cheng)為(wei)(wei)“凈(jing)慈(ci)報恩光(guang)(guang)孝(xiao)禪寺(si)(si)(si)”(簡稱(cheng)凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)(si)(si)),詔命(ming)道(dao)容住持(chi)該寺(si)(si)(si),并賜予經(jing)藏。繼道(dao)容住持(chi)凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)(si)(si)的肯堂彥充曾(ceng)師(shi)(shi)事廬(lu)山東林(lin)寺(si)(si)(si)僧(seng)(seng)顏,學凈(jing)土法(fa)門。杭州名(ming)僧(seng)(seng)癡(chi)絕道(dao)沖、無準(zhun)師(shi)(shi)范等均師(shi)(shi)從(cong)肯堂學法(fa),得以傳承。
南(nan)宋時(shi)凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)(si)幾經毀建。淳熙十(shi)四(si)年(nian)(1187年(nian)),朝(chao)廷起(qi)用退谷(gu)(gu)義(yi)云(yun)(yun)禪師(shi)(shi),命(ming)其在凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)(si)說法并(bing)主持寺(si)(si)務(wu),杭(hang)城(cheng)(cheng)士民(min)都很崇敬(jing),愛(ai)國詩人陸游(you)贊(zan)他(ta)為(wei)“才能絕人”。一(yi)日(ri),退谷(gu)(gu)義(yi)云(yun)(yun)率(lv)眾僧入城(cheng)(cheng),當晚火(huo)起(qi),凈(jing)慈(ci)寺(si)(si)盡毀,據(ju)陸游(you)《凈(jing)慈(ci)退谷(gu)(gu)義(yi)云(yun)(yun)禪師(shi)(shi)塔銘(ming)》所記(ji):是夕寺(si)(si)焚(fen)無遺宇,比師(shi)(shi)歸,獨(du)山門巋然瓦(wa)礫中,師(shi)(shi)不動(dong)容(rong)曰,成壞相尋,亦豈有常今日(ri)之壞,安知不為(wei)四(si)眾作(zuo)福(fu)之地(di)哉。
乘坐12、K12路,在絲(si)綢博物館站下車;
乘坐K102路,在萬松嶺站下車;
乘坐514、K514路區間(或(huo)K504路),在(zai)凈寺站下車(che);
乘坐822、K822路,在凈寺站下(xia)車。
凈慈寺近城臨湖,踞南(nan)(nan)山之勝。宋(song)時(shi)(shi)為(wei)其鼎盛時(shi)(shi)期,人文薈萃(cui),儒釋(shi)交融,與靈隱寺相埒(lie)。南(nan)(nan)宋(song)時(shi)(shi)被評為(wei)江南(nan)(nan)禪院“五山”之一。
北宋時,凈慈寺(si)名僧(seng)接踵,大(da)德(de)(de)輩出,有(you)(you)的成為(wei)(wei)(wei)佛教(jiao)禪(chan)(chan)宗(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)一(yi)代(dai)宗(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)師(shi)(shi)。宋初(chu)有(you)(you)“兩壽(shou)”,即延壽(shou)和(he)洪壽(shou),均師(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)于(yu)(yu)德(de)(de)韶,興教(jiao)于(yu)(yu)南屏,其佛學教(jiao)觀(guan)盛行(xing)于(yu)(yu)當(dang)時。繼“兩壽(shou)”之后(hou)(hou),又有(you)(you)圓照宗(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)本(ben)和(he)大(da)通(tong)善(shan)本(ben)相繼住持凈慈寺(si),世稱之為(wei)(wei)(wei)“大(da)小本(ben)”。他(ta)們都(dou)(dou)曾(ceng)遍訪名山,弘揚禪(chan)(chan)宗(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)佛法(fa)(fa),而且都(dou)(dou)先(xian)后(hou)(hou)成為(wei)(wei)(wei)北宋京都(dou)(dou)開封的高僧(seng)。宋神宗(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)曾(ceng)贊圓照宗(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)本(ben)為(wei)(wei)(wei)“真福(fu)慧(hui)僧(seng)”、“僧(seng)中寶”,要他(ta)“方興禪(chan)(chan)宗(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong),宜善(shan)開導”。大(da)通(tong)善(shan)本(ben)為(wei)(wei)(wei)漢董仲(zhong)舒后(hou)(hou)裔,也被(bei)尊為(wei)(wei)(wei)“大(da)通(tong)師(shi)(shi)”。正是由于(yu)(yu)這些(xie)高僧(seng)住持,才使“名藍(lan)有(you)(you)光”;受(shou)到宋王(wang)朝的重(zhong)視。北宋統一(yi)中國(guo)后(hou)(hou),宋太(tai)宗(zong)(zong)(zong)(zong)于(yu)(yu)太(tai)平(ping)興國(guo)二(er)年(nian)(977年(nian))賜慧(hui)日永明院為(wei)(wei)(wei)“壽(shou)寧禪(chan)(chan)院”,并重(zhong)加修葺。