簡介
石(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)被稱為石(shi)城(cheng),廣義(yi)(yi)上(shang)(shang)它(ta)是如(ru)今南京的(de)(de)(de)別(bie)稱,狹義(yi)(yi)上(shang)(shang)它(ta)是指(zhi)南京老城(cheng)城(cheng)西(xi)的(de)(de)(de)石(shi)頭(tou)山(shan)石(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)。孫(sun)權在(zai)石(shi)頭(tou)山(shan)修建了(le)石(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng),用(yong)它(ta)作為保(bao)護東吳京師建業的(de)(de)(de)資本;預備軍(jun)事石(shi)材(cai),石(shi)材(cai)基地多建造了(le)烽(feng)火臺,在(zai)軍(jun)事上(shang)(shang),用(yong)來(lai)立(li)即發(fa)出報警信(xin)號。后來(lai),金(jin)將軍(jun)王(wang)俊率海軍(jun)進攻東吳,東吳家(jia)連鎖橫江塊,晉軍(jun)斷鏈。導致石(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)失守,不得人心的(de)(de)(de)國王(wang)孫(sun)皓趕(gan)緊(jin)投(tou)降。劉禹錫(xi)有詩詠(yong)和事:“王(wang)濬樓船下益州(zhou),金(jin)陵(ling)王(wang)氣黯然收。”
后來,長(chang)江(jiang)已逐漸西(xi)遷,并在石(shi)頭(tou)城的河流(liu)泥沙的沉(chen)積,變得平坦。石(shi)頭(tou)城不再是(shi)這么危險。朱園建設天府(fu)石(shi)頭(tou)城市為天府(fu)市的一部分。石(shi)頭(tou)山(shan)如今是(shi)涼爽的山(shan)區。這是(shi)在西(xi)方的河,是(shi)一條(tiao)河天然(ran)石(shi)材的影(ying)響。建造石(shi)頭(tou)城,天然(ran)石(shi)材是(shi)城市的墻的一部分。
歷史沿革
石頭城(cheng)全(quan)長(chang)約3000米 ,筑(zhu)于楚威王七年(前(qian)333年)。東漢建安(an)十六年(211年),吳(wu)國孫權(quan)遷至秣陵(今南京),在石頭山金陵邑原址筑(zhu)城(cheng),取名石頭。扼守長(chang)江險要,為兵家必爭之(zhi)地,有石城(cheng)虎(hu)踞(ju)之(zhi)稱。
在南京(jing)的清(qing)涼山(shan)西(xi)麓,自(zi)虎踞關龍(long)蟠里石(shi)頭城(cheng)門到草場門,可以看到城(cheng)墻逶迤雄(xiong)峙,石(shi)崖聳立(li),這(zhe)就是(shi)(shi)依山(shan)而筑的石(shi)頭城(cheng)。同治《上(shang)江兩縣志(zhi).山(shan)考》載:“自(zi)江北以來,山(shan)皆無石(shi),至此山(shan)始有(you)石(shi),故名。”《建(jian)康志(zhi)》也說:“山(shan)上(shang)有(you)城(cheng),又名曰石(shi)城(cheng)山(shan)。”這(zhe)里所說的“城(cheng)”,也就是(shi)(shi)石(shi)頭城(cheng)。
關于(yu)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)由來,要(yao)追(zhui)溯到兩千多年(nian)前(qian)的(de)(de)戰國(guo)時(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)代(dai)(dai)。據史書記載,周顯王三(san)十六年(nian)(公(gong)(gong)元前(qian)333年(nian)),楚國(guo)(都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)郢,即(ji)今(jin)湖北(bei)江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)陵(ling))滅(mie)了(le)越國(guo)(都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)吳,即(ji)今(jin)蘇(su)州(zhou)(zhou)),楚威王設(she)置金陵(ling)邑,并在(zai)今(jin)清(qing)(qing)涼山(shan)(shan)上筑城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。秦始皇二十四年(nian)(公(gong)(gong)元前(qian)223年(nian)),楚國(guo)滅(mie)亡,秦改(gai)(gai)金陵(ling)邑為(wei)秣(mo)(mo)陵(ling)縣。相(xiang)傳三(san)國(guo)時(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),諸葛亮在(zai)赤壁(bi)之(zhi)(zhi)戰前(qian)夕(xi),出(chu)使東吳,與孫權共商破曹大計。據說,諸葛亮途經秣(mo)(mo)陵(ling)縣時(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),特(te)地(di)騎馬到石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)山(shan)(shan)觀察山(shan)(shan)川形勢。他(ta)看(kan)到以鐘山(shan)(shan)為(wei)首的(de)(de)群山(shan)(shan),像蒼龍(long)一(yi)(yi)般蜿蜒蟠伏于(yu)東南(nan)(nan),而以石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)山(shan)(shan)為(wei)終點的(de)(de)西(xi)部(bu)諸山(shan)(shan),又像猛虎(hu)似地(di)雄(xiong)踞(ju)(ju)在(zai)大江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)之(zhi)(zhi)濱,于(yu)是(shi)發出(chu)了(le)“鐘山(shan)(shan)龍(long)蟠,石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)虎(hu)踞(ju)(ju),真乃(nai)帝王之(zhi)(zhi)宅也”的(de)(de)贊嘆,并向孫權建(jian)議遷都秣(mo)(mo)陵(ling)。 孫權在(zai)赤壁(bi)之(zhi)(zhi)戰后,遷移到秣(mo)(mo)陵(ling)(今(jin)南(nan)(nan)京),并改(gai)(gai)稱秣(mo)(mo)陵(ling)為(wei)建(jian)業。第(di)二年(nian)就在(zai)清(qing)(qing)涼山(shan)(shan)原(yuan)有(you)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)基(ji)上修建(jian)了(le)著(zhu)名的(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。當時(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)長江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)就從清(qing)(qing)涼山(shan)(shan)下流(liu)過(guo),因而石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)軍事(shi)(shi)地(di)位十分突出(chu),孫吳也一(yi)(yi)直將(jiang)此(ci)處作為(wei)最主要(yao)的(de)(de)水軍基(ji)地(di)。此(ci)后數(shu)百年(nian)間,這里(li)成為(wei)戰守的(de)(de)軍事(shi)(shi)重鎮,南(nan)(nan)北(bei)戰爭,往(wang)往(wang)以奪取石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)決定勝負。 石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)以清(qing)(qing)涼山(shan)(shan)西(xi)坡天然峭壁(bi)為(wei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)基(ji),環山(shan)(shan)筑造,周長“七里(li)一(yi)(yi)百步”,相(xiang)當于(yu)如今(jin)的(de)(de)六里(li)左右。北(bei)緣大江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang),南(nan)(nan)抵秦淮河(he)口,南(nan)(nan)開(kai)二門(men),東開(kai)一(yi)(yi)門(men),南(nan)(nan)門(men)之(zhi)(zhi)西(xi)為(wei)西(xi)門(men),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)依(yi)山(shan)(shan)傍水,夾淮帶(dai)江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang),險固現時(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)勢威。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內設(she)置有(you)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)庫、石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)倉(cang),用以儲軍糧(liang)和(he)兵械(xie)。在(zai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻的(de)(de)高處筑有(you)報警的(de)(de)烽火臺,可(ke)以隨時(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)發出(chu)預報敵軍侵犯的(de)(de)信號。至南(nan)(nan)朝時(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)作為(wei)保衛都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)軍事(shi)(shi)要(yao)塞的(de)(de)地(di)位依(yi)舊(jiu)未變(bian)。 古代(dai)(dai)長江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)繞清(qing)(qing)涼山(shan)(shan)麓東去,巨(ju)浪時(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)時(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)拍擊山(shan)(shan)壁(bi),將(jiang)山(shan)(shan)崖沖刷成峭壁(bi)。隋文帝滅(mie)陳、平毀(hui)建(jian)康城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)后,在(zai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)置蔣州(zhou)(zhou),唐代(dai)(dai)初年(nian)在(zai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)設(she)揚州(zhou)(zhou)大都督府,石(shi)(shi)(shi)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)在(zai)隋朝和(he)初唐時(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)是(shi)南(nan)(nan)京地(di)區的(de)(de)中心。
唐(tang)代(dai)以(yi)后(hou)江(jiang)水(shui)日漸西移,自唐(tang)武德(de)八年(625年)后(hou),石頭城(cheng)便開始廢棄,故(gu)中(zhong)唐(tang)詩(shi)人劉禹(yu)錫作(zuo)《石頭城(cheng)》一(yi)(yi)詩(shi)云:“山圍故(gu)國周遭(zao)在,潮打空城(cheng)寂(ji)寞回(hui)。淮(huai)水(shui)東(dong)邊舊時月,夜(ye)深還過(guo)女(nv)墻來(lai)。”詩(shi)人筆下(xia)的石頭城(cheng),已是一(yi)(yi)座荒蕪(wu)寂(ji)寞的“空城(cheng)”了(le)。五(wu)代(dai)時期(924年)。石頭城(cheng)上興建(jian)了(le)第一(yi)(yi)座寺(si)廟——興教寺(si),以(yi)后(hou)這里(li)就成為寺(si)廟、書院集中(zhong)的風景(jing)名(ming)勝區了(le)。直到今天,它仍以(yi)“石城(cheng)虎踞”的雄(xiong)姿享譽中(zhong)外。
據地質(zhi)學(xue)研究,這里的(de)(de)巖(yan)層是距(ju)今大約1億(yi)年到(dao)7000萬年前(qian)的(de)(de)晚(wan)白(bai)堊(e)紀的(de)(de)浦口組地層, 在清涼門(men)到(dao)草場門(men)之間(jian)的(de)(de)城墻下面,有一(yi)(yi)塊突出(chu)的(de)(de)橢圓形(xing)石(shi)壁,長約6米(mi),寬3米(mi),因(yin)為(wei)長年風化(hua),礫(li)石(shi)剝(bo)落,坑(keng)坑(keng)洼洼,斑斑點(dian)點(dian),中(zhong)(zhong)間(jian)還雜(za)有紫黑相間(jian)的(de)(de)巖(yan)塊,怪石(shi)嶙峋,遠看隱約可見耳目口鼻,酷(ku)似一(yi)(yi)副猙獰(ning)的(de)(de)鬼(gui)(gui)(gui)臉(lian),被稱為(wei)“鬼(gui)(gui)(gui)臉(lian)城”。南京民間(jian)中(zhong)(zhong)有關鬼(gui)(gui)(gui)臉(lian)城的(de)(de)傳說很多。相傳這塊巖(yan)石(shi)原來猶如(ru)刀(dao)削一(yi)(yi)般,光(guang)滑如(ru)境。如(ru)今在鬼(gui)(gui)(gui)臉(lian)城西(xi)側確(que)有一(yi)(yi)處清亮的(de)(de)池(chi)塘,從水面的(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)側可以看到(dao)鬼(gui)(gui)(gui)臉(lian)城的(de)(de)倒影(ying),老南京人俗稱之為(wei)“鬼(gui)(gui)(gui)臉(lian)照鏡子”。
這(zhe)一神(shen)奇(qi)的傳說(shuo),吸(xi)引了無數的中(zhong)外游人(ren)。石頭城遺址已(yi)被列為江蘇省(sheng)重點文物保護(hu)單位,成為人(ren)們踏青覓翠、發思古之(zhi)幽情的好(hao)去處。
南(nan)(nan)(nan)京石(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)基因(yin)(yin)就(jiu)自(zi)然(ran)山巖鑿成(cheng),中段有(you)幾塊蕩紅色砂礫(li)巖因(yin)(yin)經(jing)古(gu)時長(chang)江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)水(shui)沖刷(shua)而(er)凹凸不平,有(you)如獸面,故俗稱(cheng)鬼臉城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。石(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周長(chang)約3000米,南(nan)(nan)(nan)面開(kai)2門,東面開(kai)1門,西北因(yin)(yin)緊靠(kao)長(chang)江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang),故不設城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門。當時,石(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)為孫(sun)(sun)吳水(shui)師的(de)(de)總部(bu),江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)泊常(chang)有(you)上千艘(sou)船只。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內建(jian)有(you)石(shi)頭倉庫,用來(lai)儲存糧食、兵(bing)器等物資。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西最(zui)高處還建(jian)有(you)孫(sun)(sun)吳的(de)(de)烽火(huo)(huo)臺(tai)。據說一(yi)旦發現敵情,在烽火(huo)(huo)臺(tai)一(yi)舉烽火(huo)(huo),半日內即可(ke)傳遍長(chang)江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)沿線。石(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)地勢險(xian)峻,自(zi)古(gu)就(jiu)有(you)“石(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)虎(hu)踞”之稱(cheng)。以后由于長(chang)江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)河道逐漸(jian)西移(yi),石(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)軍事價(jia)值(zhi)有(you)所減(jian)弱。明代朱元璋定都南(nan)(nan)(nan)京后,于洪武二年(nian)興建(jian)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻,此(ci)處石(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)便成(cheng)了南(nan)(nan)(nan)京城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻的(de)(de)一(yi)部(bu)分。如今(jin)石(shi)頭城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)已是聞(wen)名中外的(de)(de)歷史古(gu)跡,也是南(nan)(nan)(nan)京重要的(de)(de)旅(lv)游勝地之一(yi)。
在南京(jing)石頭(tou)(tou)城城西,景色清幽(you),有(you)“城市(shi)山(shan)林(lin)”之(zhi)稱。清涼山(shan)上,名(ming)勝古跡(ji)隨處(chu)可尋,有(you)“駐(zhu)馬坡”、“南唐古井”、“清涼寺(si)”、“崇(chong)正(zheng)書院”及“掃葉樓(lou)”等。石頭(tou)(tou)城在清涼山(shan)后(hou),南北全(quan)長(chang)約3000米。城基(ji)遺跡(ji)為(wei)赭紅色,內(nei)有(you)大量河光石,一般高(gao)出地表(biao)0.3-0.7米,最高(gao)處(chu)為(wei)17米,系自(zi)然(ran)山(shan)巖(yan)鑿成(cheng)。東晉義熙(xi)年(nian)(nian)間(405-418)加磚累甓,明洪(hong)武(wu)二年(nian)(nian)(1369年(nian)(nian))石頭(tou)(tou)城為(wei)應天府城(今南京(jing))的一部分重加修建(jian)。交通(tong):乘游(you)4路,6、21、23、60、75、91、302路車可達。
公園建設
1990年,南京市在石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)的舊址上興建了石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)公園。公園以“石(shi)(shi)城(cheng)懷古”為(wei)主(zhu)題,將石(shi)(shi)頭(tou)城(cheng)的悠久歷史與(yu)自然山(shan)水(shui)有機(ji)結合,將古代戰場(chang)與(yu)現(xian)代國防(fang)教育融為(wei)一體,規劃總面積近16.94公頃, 以古城(cheng)墻為(wei)軸線(xian),體現(xian)歷史文(wen)化古都的特色。北起清涼山(shan)體校,南至清涼門(men),西(xi)臨古城(cheng)墻,東到(dao)虎踞路。
石頭城(cheng)又(you)稱“鬼(gui)(gui)臉(lian)城(cheng)”,是(shi)(shi)三國(guo)東(dong)吳時(shi)期孫(sun)權在(zai)赤(chi)壁之戰后, 于公元211年將首府(fu)由京口(今鎮江)遷至秣陵(ling)(今南京),利(li)用(yong)清(qing)涼山(shan)的(de)(de)(de)天然石壁建立的(de)(de)(de)軍事要塞,地(di)(di)勢險要,氣勢雄偉,是(shi)(shi)歷(li)史(shi)(shi)滄桑的(de)(de)(de)實物見(jian)證。站于此地(di)(di),最能領會劉禹錫(xi)《西塞山(shan)懷(huai)(huai)古(gu)》和譽為(wei)登臨之絕(jue)唱的(de)(de)(de)王安石《桂枝香》-金陵(ling)懷(huai)(huai)古(gu)詞的(de)(de)(de)意(yi)境(jing)。“鬼(gui)(gui)臉(lian)照鏡(jing)子” 是(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)個在(zai)歷(li)史(shi)(shi)上即聞名的(de)(de)(de)景點,因在(zai)城(cheng)墻(qiang)中部有一(yi)(yi)塊突出墻(qiang)體的(de)(de)(de)橢圓形石壁,遠看(kan)隱(yin)約可見(jian)耳(er)目口鼻,酷似一(yi)(yi)副鬼(gui)(gui)臉(lian),因此被(bei)稱為(wei)“鬼(gui)(gui)臉(lian)”,“鬼(gui)(gui)臉(lian)” 下(xia)的(de)(de)(de)這(zhe)面水(shui)塘” 鏡(jing)” 的(de)(de)(de)面積有1600多平(ping)方(fang)米。公園重修時(shi),著(zhu)名的(de)(de)(de)燕王河(he)景觀也(ye)從(cong)歷(li)史(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)(de)覆蓋中清(qing)理(li)出來,重見(jian)天日(ri),成為(wei)一(yi)(yi)條兩岸郁郁蔥蔥的(de)(de)(de)清(qing)流。不論遠觀還是(shi)(shi)就近審視,城(cheng)墻(qiang)垂柳,碧水(shui)綠樹,都是(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)方(fang)絕(jue)佳的(de)(de)(de)景致。
石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)公園劃(hua)分為(wei)國防春曉、石(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)霽雪和(he)(he)山(shan)(shan)居(ju)秋(qiu)(qiu)瞑三(san)大(da)景區,設21個景點。石(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)霽雪區位于公園的(de)(de)西側,北(bei)至(zhi)清涼(liang)山(shan)(shan),南(nan)至(zhi)清涼(liang)門(men),沿古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)呈帶(dai)狀分布,是石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)公園的(de)(de)精華所在(zai), 是金陵四十八(ba)景之一。而山(shan)(shan)居(ju)秋(qiu)(qiu)瞑區在(zai)公園東側的(de)(de)山(shan)(shan)林地帶(dai),植被濃密,生機盎然,留(liu)連其中,可(ke)感受到盛唐時(shi)代(dai)(dai)著名(ming)的(de)(de)詩(shi)人王維那首著名(ming)田園詩(shi)的(de)(de)意境(jing):空山(shan)(shan)新雨后,天(tian)氣晚來(lai)秋(qiu)(qiu)。 明月松間照,清泉石(shi)上流。竹喧歸浣女,蓮動下漁舟。隨意春芳歇,王孫自可(ke)留(liu)。清涼(liang)山(shan)(shan)和(he)(he)石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)一帶(dai)有“城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)市山(shan)(shan)林”之美稱,雨后秋(qiu)(qiu)清氣爽的(de)(de)日子游覽,當會(hui)感覺名(ming)不虛傳,不復(fu)有元代(dai)(dai)薩都(dou)剌(la)《登石(shi)頭(tou)(tou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)》一詞的(de)(de)凄楚(chu)與(yu)傷(shang)感。
跨過虎踞路,清涼山公園與(yu)之遙相呼應,一雄渾壯闊,一寧靜深沉,互為映(ying)襯。